530 d will not start
Discussion
I know on the E46 330d there is a pre-supply pump which is underneath the car at the passenger side under a metal cover, and this is prone to go south as has happened on my wife's.
It gives the symptom that your describing. I thought initially that the immobiliser had come on and refused to disengage, but a quick call to a dealer revealed that the pre-supply pump is a common fault on the E46 at least.
I believe the pump only cost $85
It gives the symptom that your describing. I thought initially that the immobiliser had come on and refused to disengage, but a quick call to a dealer revealed that the pre-supply pump is a common fault on the E46 at least.
I believe the pump only cost $85
See several issues with 330d and 530d,at the moment the most common is the DDE(digital diesel electronics or ECU)Relay-its a blue relay that sits in the housing on the n/s of the engine bay(hold the engine electronics etc.The contacts tend to burn and cuts the DDE out.
Second is excessive runoff at the fuel injectors(injector failure)See loads of these where the injector/s let fuel runoff(internally)this stops the required 300bar+ pressure build up for engine start(have to say this is equally as common as the top one).
The fuel runoff needs to be measured at each injector via the small runoff pipes(DO NOT attempt to crack off the high pressure pipes at the injectors/rail or hp pump to see if there is any fuel during cranking or if it starts-IT could kill you-extremely high pressures here)
The third is the pre supply pump under the n/s centre of the car(hidden under covers(as mentioned by the previous post)They failed for a pass time in 02.
fourth the camshaft sensor(under the top engine covers at the top front of the engine),these can fail without warning and its a case of non start.
fifth,on the back of the high pressure rail(behind the inlet manifold towards baulkhead)there is a pressure sensor-these have a bad contact and the wiring connector-however 01/02 they modified this so chances are it will be ok.
sixth can sometimes be the fuel tank pump,but you will normally get to start-if you rev it,it will die.
There are others but they are rare
Second is excessive runoff at the fuel injectors(injector failure)See loads of these where the injector/s let fuel runoff(internally)this stops the required 300bar+ pressure build up for engine start(have to say this is equally as common as the top one).
The fuel runoff needs to be measured at each injector via the small runoff pipes(DO NOT attempt to crack off the high pressure pipes at the injectors/rail or hp pump to see if there is any fuel during cranking or if it starts-IT could kill you-extremely high pressures here)
The third is the pre supply pump under the n/s centre of the car(hidden under covers(as mentioned by the previous post)They failed for a pass time in 02.
fourth the camshaft sensor(under the top engine covers at the top front of the engine),these can fail without warning and its a case of non start.
fifth,on the back of the high pressure rail(behind the inlet manifold towards baulkhead)there is a pressure sensor-these have a bad contact and the wiring connector-however 01/02 they modified this so chances are it will be ok.
sixth can sometimes be the fuel tank pump,but you will normally get to start-if you rev it,it will die.
There are others but they are rare
darren no 7 said:
just found out cam chain has gone, new engine or try to repair, that is now the question thanks
That is usually because it has had petrol in at at sometime and the high pressure pump seized, when it is stripped look for seizure marks at the pump to sprocket surface, and check the fuel tank for small MAGNETIC particles.
If there are magnetic particles you will need to repair the fuel system aswell or the same thing could happen again.
Also check swirl flaps in the inlet manifold have not dropped out, allthough you usually have a knocking noise as a warning
Ouch!
Havent seen one of those for a while.Sounds definately like the HP pump has siezed-This tends to cause a lot of damage.
Your way forward is to remove the head to establish what damage has been done.The valves will meet the pistons and likely snap a cam.Removing the head is the cheapest option at this point(keep the head gasket-if the heads ok you need to know the gasket thickness you have-theres a series of holes-normally 3)
You will be lucky to get away with a few valves-most of our repairs ends up as an engine.If this is the case ring FAB also check your insurance it may cover it if you have a good one.
A few pointers when doing this-before removing the injectors-drown them in WD40-they will be siezed in on th M57-We end up using a slide hammer to remove them.They can be bastards.If you cant get them out,before destroying them and the cam cover ring a few engineering firms as loads have made tools to remove injectors(this is common for all makes)it will cost about £50(1 injector is over £100 so its worth the spend)
You will be removing the vacuum pump on the front of the engine-it sits in an aluminium bridge-DONT be tempted to remove this-the studs will snap,the bridge is machine fitted.
When undoing the cams make sure you do it evenly(1 turn per nut)The cams are cast and will snap if you take one bearing cap off at a time.
The headbolts are throw away and are male Torx
Havent seen one of those for a while.Sounds definately like the HP pump has siezed-This tends to cause a lot of damage.
Your way forward is to remove the head to establish what damage has been done.The valves will meet the pistons and likely snap a cam.Removing the head is the cheapest option at this point(keep the head gasket-if the heads ok you need to know the gasket thickness you have-theres a series of holes-normally 3)
You will be lucky to get away with a few valves-most of our repairs ends up as an engine.If this is the case ring FAB also check your insurance it may cover it if you have a good one.
A few pointers when doing this-before removing the injectors-drown them in WD40-they will be siezed in on th M57-We end up using a slide hammer to remove them.They can be bastards.If you cant get them out,before destroying them and the cam cover ring a few engineering firms as loads have made tools to remove injectors(this is common for all makes)it will cost about £50(1 injector is over £100 so its worth the spend)
You will be removing the vacuum pump on the front of the engine-it sits in an aluminium bridge-DONT be tempted to remove this-the studs will snap,the bridge is machine fitted.
When undoing the cams make sure you do it evenly(1 turn per nut)The cams are cast and will snap if you take one bearing cap off at a time.
The headbolts are throw away and are male Torx
Edited by blackspider on Tuesday 2nd January 21:38
blackspider said:
Ouch!
A few pointers when doing this-before removing the injectors-drown them in WD40-they will be siezed in on th M57-We end up using a slide hammer to remove them.They can be bastards.
A few pointers when doing this-before removing the injectors-drown them in WD40-they will be siezed in on th M57-We end up using a slide hammer to remove them.They can be bastards.
Edited by blackspider on Tuesday 2nd January 21:38
I made one myself, a nut that matches the injector union thread welded to a 20mm diameter bar about 20cm long, this can then be screwed on to the fuel pipe union and the injector worked to and fro with upward pressure at the same time.
Only had two that needed a little extra to remove a bit of coca-cola left to soak in for 30minutes sorted them out.
If I recall I think it was an E36 front ball joint nut that matches the thread
darren no 7 said:
hi is this a big job ,would it just be chain ,pump a few valves and gaskets and two ish days work or am i hopeing thanks
Edited by darren no 7 on Tuesday 2nd January 18:40
As Blackspider said ouch, it usually means that pistons hit the valves and break the camshafts.
removing the head will reveal most of the damage but it usually ends up as an exchange engine when the chain has gone.
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