F3x suspension suggestions and tapping noise
Discussion
Morning all, hope you've all had a good Christmas!
My F33 440i has a git of a random tapping noise coming from the rear right cabin area where the C pillar meets the suspension tower. Comes on in the expected manner over speed bumps and rough British roads - so, often.
BMW had it for a diagnostic and wanted over £500 to investigate properly, so at £250 per hour with no guarantee of it being found in 2 hours I've taken it home. Lawyers cost less.
I've stripped the rear panels out, removed anything that could tap or tick against the framework and padded back in place with adhesive foam but to no effect.
It's not the seat belt mechanism, the isofix points, the battery tie down, loose objects under the boot floor, the hand brake cable clip, the seat latch or the head rests, nor does it seem to be anything to do with the convertible roof or it's locking rods (which has its own typical creaks) - sounds more accurately like the top of the strut tower so I'm removing that when I can to replace the top mount and bump stop/dust covers in case any of that is shot or the top nut has worked it's way loose.
If the shock is shot as well (looks like it's wept in the past?) I'm wondering what to replace the rears with. A lot of folk seem to rave about Bilstein B series such as the direct OEM+ replacement B4 and the sportier B6, although surely I'd have to do the fronts as well for the B6 to match. Others seem to recommend a KYB active model.
The car is on 67k and a 2016 model with the S704 M Sport suspension that I think is more or less standard.
Any experience or suggestions welcome!
My F33 440i has a git of a random tapping noise coming from the rear right cabin area where the C pillar meets the suspension tower. Comes on in the expected manner over speed bumps and rough British roads - so, often.
BMW had it for a diagnostic and wanted over £500 to investigate properly, so at £250 per hour with no guarantee of it being found in 2 hours I've taken it home. Lawyers cost less.
I've stripped the rear panels out, removed anything that could tap or tick against the framework and padded back in place with adhesive foam but to no effect.
It's not the seat belt mechanism, the isofix points, the battery tie down, loose objects under the boot floor, the hand brake cable clip, the seat latch or the head rests, nor does it seem to be anything to do with the convertible roof or it's locking rods (which has its own typical creaks) - sounds more accurately like the top of the strut tower so I'm removing that when I can to replace the top mount and bump stop/dust covers in case any of that is shot or the top nut has worked it's way loose.
If the shock is shot as well (looks like it's wept in the past?) I'm wondering what to replace the rears with. A lot of folk seem to rave about Bilstein B series such as the direct OEM+ replacement B4 and the sportier B6, although surely I'd have to do the fronts as well for the B6 to match. Others seem to recommend a KYB active model.
The car is on 67k and a 2016 model with the S704 M Sport suspension that I think is more or less standard.
Any experience or suggestions welcome!
Shocks had it. Deffo replace that, replace the top mount as well and the necessary gaskets and the drop links too, both sides.
If you want to stick with OEM and you have standard shocks and not adaptive, go for Bilstein B4S shocks.
Exactly what we run on our F31 with Eibach Pro kit springs and it makes for a superb set up
They're still compliant enough to take the crappy UK roads. But also stiff enough for spirited driving but without rattling your fillings loose!
I did a full suspension overhaul on the F31, every part, it was well worth it.
But if you just want to refresh, go Bilstein B4S all corners and either new OEM springs or the Eibach Pro kit springs. But deffo new top mounts, gaskets/rubber spring perches and drop links all round.
I sourced the suspension parts via Autodoc and the gaskets/spring perches and necessary bolts via Cotswolds BMW
Hope this helps
If you want to stick with OEM and you have standard shocks and not adaptive, go for Bilstein B4S shocks.
Exactly what we run on our F31 with Eibach Pro kit springs and it makes for a superb set up
They're still compliant enough to take the crappy UK roads. But also stiff enough for spirited driving but without rattling your fillings loose!
I did a full suspension overhaul on the F31, every part, it was well worth it.
But if you just want to refresh, go Bilstein B4S all corners and either new OEM springs or the Eibach Pro kit springs. But deffo new top mounts, gaskets/rubber spring perches and drop links all round.
I sourced the suspension parts via Autodoc and the gaskets/spring perches and necessary bolts via Cotswolds BMW
Hope this helps
Edited by danb79 on Thursday 26th December 14:06
Thanks Dan that's great info. I've already ordered Febi Bilstein top mounts and dust cover kits so I'll get to ordering some B4 shocks.
Are the top nuts 18mm? I don't have any pass through sockets so will need to order one as well but more to the point hopefully this cures the fecking random tapping.
Any other tools out of the ordinary that I might need?
Side note - the car has a 1 year warranty that's still active from Central Lotus but I'm assuming this will be counted as wear and tear items rather than covered. I'll check anyway as surely it's no skin off their nose.
Edit - Bilstein don't seem to have the 4 series covered on their UK website for some reason so I've asked them to confirm the part number based on my VIN.
Are the top nuts 18mm? I don't have any pass through sockets so will need to order one as well but more to the point hopefully this cures the fecking random tapping.
Any other tools out of the ordinary that I might need?
Side note - the car has a 1 year warranty that's still active from Central Lotus but I'm assuming this will be counted as wear and tear items rather than covered. I'll check anyway as surely it's no skin off their nose.
Edit - Bilstein don't seem to have the 4 series covered on their UK website for some reason so I've asked them to confirm the part number based on my VIN.
Edited by Vince Noir on Thursday 26th December 16:22
Vince Noir said:
Thanks Dan that's great info. I've already ordered Febi Bilstein top mounts and dust cover kits so I'll get to ordering some B4 shocks.
Are the top nuts 18mm? I don't have any pass through sockets so will need to order one as well but more to the point hopefully this cures the fecking random tapping.
Any other tools out of the ordinary that I might need?
Side note - the car has a 1 year warranty that's still active from Central Lotus but I'm assuming this will be counted as wear and tear items rather than covered. I'll check anyway as surely it's no skin off their nose.
Edit - Bilstein don't seem to have the 4 series covered on their UK website for some reason so I've asked them to confirm the part number based on my VIN.
Which 440i have you got (xDrive, with or without EDC etc)?Are the top nuts 18mm? I don't have any pass through sockets so will need to order one as well but more to the point hopefully this cures the fecking random tapping.
Any other tools out of the ordinary that I might need?
Side note - the car has a 1 year warranty that's still active from Central Lotus but I'm assuming this will be counted as wear and tear items rather than covered. I'll check anyway as surely it's no skin off their nose.
Edit - Bilstein don't seem to have the 4 series covered on their UK website for some reason so I've asked them to confirm the part number based on my VIN.
Edited by Vince Noir on Thursday 26th December 16:22
Bilstein shocks here but I've guestimated at a non EDC 440i:
https://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?34=0,10...
PNs there etc; see what you can find on Autodoc for prices as well as eBay UK etc
And yes re warranty; not sure it'd be covered, but well worth asking!
And re top nuts, don't know sorry (have a look on www.realoem.com - put the last 7 digits on your VIN into the box at the top of the page and it'll bring up your car; front axle and rear axle diagrams are the ones you need)
When I did mine I didn't use pass through sockets; just a spanner and ratchet with the right socket etc and just had it down on the bench with the spanner stopping it from spinning
Re other tools no; but, have some Wurth Rost Off to hand; it works superbly on stuck/tight bolts etc
I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure it's non EDC M Sport suspension so should be the cheaper of the options, and standard RWD. There's no button with a shock absorber in the cabin anyway, just the eco through to sport plus button.
So BMW had the car for 5 or 6 days to do the airbag recall and diagnose the tapping noise. They did the usual walk around inspection video that all major garages do too and said all aspects of the suspension look fine
which won't help when I ask about the warranty, but anyway, I'll try nonetheless. I'm surprised they didn't say anything considering the state of it (other side doesn't have any of the obvious degradation this one does).
Thanks for these site links, they're of great help and will be bookmarked.
Looking at the shocks compatible with my car there's a lot of options but at a guess it looks like the 4th one down. M Sport, non electronic. Would you agree?
I'll try and get this all done before booking it into PCW too for the exhaust mod.
Do you rate your Eibach spring combo or would you do it differently? Also is it a ride hight change or more or less stock?
So BMW had the car for 5 or 6 days to do the airbag recall and diagnose the tapping noise. They did the usual walk around inspection video that all major garages do too and said all aspects of the suspension look fine
which won't help when I ask about the warranty, but anyway, I'll try nonetheless. I'm surprised they didn't say anything considering the state of it (other side doesn't have any of the obvious degradation this one does).Thanks for these site links, they're of great help and will be bookmarked.
Looking at the shocks compatible with my car there's a lot of options but at a guess it looks like the 4th one down. M Sport, non electronic. Would you agree?
I'll try and get this all done before booking it into PCW too for the exhaust mod.
Do you rate your Eibach spring combo or would you do it differently? Also is it a ride hight change or more or less stock?
Edited by Vince Noir on Thursday 26th December 18:05
Vince Noir said:
I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure it's non EDC M Sport suspension so should be the cheaper of the options, and standard RWD. There's no button with a shock absorber in the cabin anyway, just the eco through to sport plus button.
So BMW had the car for 5 or 6 days to do the airbag recall and diagnose the tapping noise. They did the usual walk around inspection video that all major garages do too and said all aspects of the suspension look fine which won't help when I ask about the warranty, but anyway, I'll try nonetheless. I'm surprised they didn't say anything considering the state of it (other side doesn't have any of the obvious degradation this one does).
Thanks for these site links, they're of great help and will be bookmarked.
Looking at the shocks compatible with my car there's a lot of options but at a guess it looks like the 4th one down. M Sport, non electronic. Would you agree?
I'll try and get this all done before booking it into PCW too for the exhaust mod.
Do you rate your Eibach spring combo or would you do it differently? Also is it a ride hight change or more or less stock?
Yup; they look to be the right ones - for M Sport suspension, for non EDC/electronic damping/xDrive - IIRC same ones fitted to our F31So BMW had the car for 5 or 6 days to do the airbag recall and diagnose the tapping noise. They did the usual walk around inspection video that all major garages do too and said all aspects of the suspension look fine
which won't help when I ask about the warranty, but anyway, I'll try nonetheless. I'm surprised they didn't say anything considering the state of it (other side doesn't have any of the obvious degradation this one does).Thanks for these site links, they're of great help and will be bookmarked.
Looking at the shocks compatible with my car there's a lot of options but at a guess it looks like the 4th one down. M Sport, non electronic. Would you agree?
I'll try and get this all done before booking it into PCW too for the exhaust mod.
Do you rate your Eibach spring combo or would you do it differently? Also is it a ride hight change or more or less stock?
Edited by Vince Noir on Thursday 26th December 18:05
Much better price here: https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/products/19-2200... - get them ordered ASAP at that price IMO
Cheaper than Autodoc! https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7003507
And yes; the Bilstein B4 shocks with eibach pro-kit springs are superb on our F31. It drives/rides superbly, takes rough roads without any jarring, unlike the OEM M Sport suspension and with much less body roll as well
Ride height is approx 10-15mm lower than factory; but much more even all round too and doesn't have that 'BMW rake'
This is our F31 on its winters:
On its summers:
That's a superb looking wagon. Before I bought this 440 I had a deposit down on a 2010 Audi C6 S6 but it's not as good looking as this F31 despite having that awesome big engine.
I've checked the links, thanks once again, you've been a great help and the price in getting (I'm abroad so sometimes it's affected) is £93 per unit whereas on ebay I've found them at £60 something which, assuming they're genuine, is incredibly cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225903405674?mkcid=16&a...
I'll be driving my car down to Spain and back soon so I'm tempted to do the full works now with the aftermarket springs as well.
Did you uprate your anti sway bar as well? I remember fitting a thicker and adjustable Whiteline unit on my old GT4 ST205 Celica and it made a noticable difference. Some small spacers wouldn't go a miss either but I don't like the idea of messing with the bearings.
Last job on mine was to get rid of the corroded exhaust tips.
I've checked the links, thanks once again, you've been a great help and the price in getting (I'm abroad so sometimes it's affected) is £93 per unit whereas on ebay I've found them at £60 something which, assuming they're genuine, is incredibly cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225903405674?mkcid=16&a...
I'll be driving my car down to Spain and back soon so I'm tempted to do the full works now with the aftermarket springs as well.
Did you uprate your anti sway bar as well? I remember fitting a thicker and adjustable Whiteline unit on my old GT4 ST205 Celica and it made a noticable difference. Some small spacers wouldn't go a miss either but I don't like the idea of messing with the bearings.
Last job on mine was to get rid of the corroded exhaust tips.
Vince Noir said:
That's a superb looking wagon. Before I bought this 440 I had a deposit down on a 2010 Audi C6 S6 but it's not as good looking as this F31 despite having that awesome big engine.
I've checked the links, thanks once again, you've been a great help and the price in getting (I'm abroad so sometimes it's affected) is £93 per unit whereas on ebay I've found them at £60 something which, assuming they're genuine, is incredibly cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225903405674?mkcid=16&a...
I'll be driving my car down to Spain and back soon so I'm tempted to do the full works now with the aftermarket springs as well.
Did you uprate your anti sway bar as well? I remember fitting a thicker and adjustable Whiteline unit on my old GT4 ST205 Celica and it made a noticable difference. Some small spacers wouldn't go a miss either but I don't like the idea of messing with the bearings.
Last job on mine was to get rid of the corroded exhaust tips.
That's a cracking price for them on eBay; I'd get them ASAP!I've checked the links, thanks once again, you've been a great help and the price in getting (I'm abroad so sometimes it's affected) is £93 per unit whereas on ebay I've found them at £60 something which, assuming they're genuine, is incredibly cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225903405674?mkcid=16&a...
I'll be driving my car down to Spain and back soon so I'm tempted to do the full works now with the aftermarket springs as well.
Did you uprate your anti sway bar as well? I remember fitting a thicker and adjustable Whiteline unit on my old GT4 ST205 Celica and it made a noticable difference. Some small spacers wouldn't go a miss either but I don't like the idea of messing with the bearings.
Last job on mine was to get rid of the corroded exhaust tips.
No need for thicker ARBs for me personally; the F31 is the long distance car; my 130i is the weekend banger/fast road car etc
The wife has the F31 as she commutes a lot more in her new job & up/down the M65, so it's better for her to be in that; plus it gives the engine a good run as well etc (I work from home and do close to 3k a year, if that) 
Re spacers; you'll not have any issues at all with decent spacers (Bimecc) at around 10-15mm etc); they're simply widening a fixed point and at that size, they'll do no harm whatsoever. I've run spacers on every BMW since my 1st BMW (E38) in 2010. Never had any problems (ran them on E39s, E65, F01 and my E81 130i currently); the F31 doesn't need them as the wheels are all straight (18x8 offset 34); so it has them sitting well
I'd absolutely recommend the whole hog of Bilstein B4 shocks with Eibach pro-kit springs; won't drop silly amount but it'll help stiffen up the car. As they're progressive springs, they'll ride like OEM when driving normally, but will stiffen up when you push the car etc
Ebay must have heard the convo and bumped the price a little but still very cheap anyway so I've ordered the rears for now till I speak to lotus in the new year. The front struts seem to be going for about £135 a piece which isn't bad at all either. Was almost tempted to go for the whole B8 setup if lowering is on the cards as those monotube units sound pretty good. The main thing is to not lose the comfort of the car though as the UK roads just don't accommodate like the euro roads do thanks to the lower traffic quantity and particularly in Spain where I was, the lack of frost. It'll be awesome to get it down there in fact, otherwise mine only does about 5k a year as well.
If I do the full works I'll order a stagger set of spacers while I'm at it, it would look well with them. I've seen PerfCo and MMX but not seen the ones you've mentioned so I'll check them out too.
I've also had the MHD stage one done, so refreshing the chassis with OEM+ is a timely idea.
but still very cheap anyway so I've ordered the rears for now till I speak to lotus in the new year. The front struts seem to be going for about £135 a piece which isn't bad at all either. Was almost tempted to go for the whole B8 setup if lowering is on the cards as those monotube units sound pretty good. The main thing is to not lose the comfort of the car though as the UK roads just don't accommodate like the euro roads do thanks to the lower traffic quantity and particularly in Spain where I was, the lack of frost. It'll be awesome to get it down there in fact, otherwise mine only does about 5k a year as well. If I do the full works I'll order a stagger set of spacers while I'm at it, it would look well with them. I've seen PerfCo and MMX but not seen the ones you've mentioned so I'll check them out too.
I've also had the MHD stage one done, so refreshing the chassis with OEM+ is a timely idea.
Vince Noir said:
Ebay must have heard the convo and bumped the price a little but still very cheap anyway so I've ordered the rears for now till I speak to lotus in the new year. The front struts seem to be going for about £135 a piece which isn't bad at all either. Was almost tempted to go for the whole B8 setup if lowering is on the cards as those monotube units sound pretty good. The main thing is to not lose the comfort of the car though as the UK roads just don't accommodate like the euro roads do thanks to the lower traffic quantity and particularly in Spain where I was, the lack of frost. It'll be awesome to get it down there in fact, otherwise mine only does about 5k a year as well.
If I do the full works I'll order a stagger set of spacers while I'm at it, it would look well with them. I've seen PerfCo and MMX but not seen the ones you've mentioned so I'll check them out too.
I've also had the MHD stage one done, so refreshing the chassis with OEM+ is a timely idea.
I wouldn't go the B12 kit personally; just too stiff for the UK roads. I test drove an F30 330D with the B12 kit fitted (superb on the back / country lanes when pushing it etc; but driving back at normal speeds on normal roads; it skipped and jarred a lot...) The chassis is already very stiff! but still very cheap anyway so I've ordered the rears for now till I speak to lotus in the new year. The front struts seem to be going for about £135 a piece which isn't bad at all either. Was almost tempted to go for the whole B8 setup if lowering is on the cards as those monotube units sound pretty good. The main thing is to not lose the comfort of the car though as the UK roads just don't accommodate like the euro roads do thanks to the lower traffic quantity and particularly in Spain where I was, the lack of frost. It'll be awesome to get it down there in fact, otherwise mine only does about 5k a year as well. If I do the full works I'll order a stagger set of spacers while I'm at it, it would look well with them. I've seen PerfCo and MMX but not seen the ones you've mentioned so I'll check them out too.
I've also had the MHD stage one done, so refreshing the chassis with OEM+ is a timely idea.
That's why B4S shocks suit better IMO; they're only just a bit stiffer than OEM, but pair well with the Eibach pro kit springs and offer a very good ride indeed
Re speacers; speak to this chap on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/mteconline?mkcid=16&...
Tell him you want a Bimecc spacer set up with long wheel bolts for your 440i and he'll put it together for you
I've just done that for my 130i and fitted them earlier this month, but went with a stud conversion instead as it's better for when running spacers IMO and makes life easier when it comes to taking off & refitting wheels etc
I went 12mm all round with a 75mm stud conversion kit
Mine were like that. The standard stuff rots out quickly.
I went with these along with a set of Eibach Pro springs and it's an absolute transformation over the crappy M Sport stuff. They do EDC ones as well iirc, if yours has that. Mine is the passive setup.
https://evolveautomotive.com/products/evolve-shock...
I went with these along with a set of Eibach Pro springs and it's an absolute transformation over the crappy M Sport stuff. They do EDC ones as well iirc, if yours has that. Mine is the passive setup.
https://evolveautomotive.com/products/evolve-shock...
Well, the new B4s, top mounts and dust covers are in. The car feels better to the point that I'll get on with the fronts next.
The rear right was definitely shot. I don't know how to upload a video here so I've stuck it on YouTube as a short -
https://youtube.com/shorts/2mn7_410GBU?si=xuEtNwu7...
https://youtube.com/shorts/fdKXxZVzY2g?si=DzkW-qON...
You can see a lot of corrosion on the offending shock and the top nut was hard work to release. Sadly though, the tapping noise from inside the car is still as loud as ever.
This is the only solution I've found to drowning out the noise
thank God for chav mode
https://youtube.com/shorts/-br6q8yiOAM?si=N7Bf2DG-...
The rear right was definitely shot. I don't know how to upload a video here so I've stuck it on YouTube as a short -
https://youtube.com/shorts/2mn7_410GBU?si=xuEtNwu7...
https://youtube.com/shorts/fdKXxZVzY2g?si=DzkW-qON...
You can see a lot of corrosion on the offending shock and the top nut was hard work to release. Sadly though, the tapping noise from inside the car is still as loud as ever.
This is the only solution I've found to drowning out the noise
thank God for chav modehttps://youtube.com/shorts/-br6q8yiOAM?si=N7Bf2DG-...
Vince Noir said:
Well, the new B4s, top mounts and dust covers are in. The car feels better to the point that I'll get on with the fronts next.
The rear right was definitely shot. I don't know how to upload a video here so I've stuck it on YouTube as a short -
https://youtube.com/shorts/2mn7_410GBU?si=xuEtNwu7...
https://youtube.com/shorts/fdKXxZVzY2g?si=DzkW-qON...
You can see a lot of corrosion on the offending shock and the top nut was hard work to release. Sadly though, the tapping noise from inside the car is still as loud as ever.
This is the only solution I've found to drowning out the noise thank God for chav mode
https://youtube.com/shorts/-br6q8yiOAM?si=N7Bf2DG-...
Time to find out what's going on inside (or maybe underneath - propshaft etc)The rear right was definitely shot. I don't know how to upload a video here so I've stuck it on YouTube as a short -
https://youtube.com/shorts/2mn7_410GBU?si=xuEtNwu7...
https://youtube.com/shorts/fdKXxZVzY2g?si=DzkW-qON...
You can see a lot of corrosion on the offending shock and the top nut was hard work to release. Sadly though, the tapping noise from inside the car is still as loud as ever.
This is the only solution I've found to drowning out the noise
thank God for chav modehttps://youtube.com/shorts/-br6q8yiOAM?si=N7Bf2DG-...
Good way to drown out the noise though haha
I'm at a bit of a loss as it sounds (from being a passenger in the back seats) like it's coming from the area near the top of where the strut would be, but more inside or the cabin. Took the corner seat bolster out along with the rear card last night and couldn't find anything loose whatsoever.
Did stumble upon this video today where they use something called a Picoscope (ironically on a similar BMW) to create a range of sound frequencies in order to induce the rattle. However mine sounds a bit too large for this to work but I'll download and app and try through the speakers anyway.
https://youtu.be/AN-9QoQWR74?si=nxfyDHGfNbfB9GH4
Did stumble upon this video today where they use something called a Picoscope (ironically on a similar BMW) to create a range of sound frequencies in order to induce the rattle. However mine sounds a bit too large for this to work but I'll download and app and try through the speakers anyway.
https://youtu.be/AN-9QoQWR74?si=nxfyDHGfNbfB9GH4
So, semi success, but not from the soundwave stuff which nearly made me vomit
After taking the wheel off again, removing the wheel arch liner and not finding anything loose I found a video online of someone fixing their noises via lubricating all the ball joints and bushings with silicone spray. It's only a temporary fix if it worked but would highlight that the noise is not a tapping but an intermittent creaking.
Finally I managed to recreate the noise on demand by swerving the car left and right, unloading and loading the chassis further compounding the idea it's bushings or creaking roof.
Anyway to cut a boring story short I tried it out and it's only bloody worked. Absolutely dowsed the rubber bushings and spring seats, subframe mounts, etc in silicone, drove for about 5 to 10 minutes and it's stopped the noise. Made a video - it sounds more like creaking here than tapping because of the swerving to make it happen all the time. Before this it was just the odd tap tap noise, but elongated it sounds like a creak.
https://youtube.com/shorts/GsU_Lg-sR-I?si=BNhadpuI...
Now I'll need to figure out which bushing or rubber component is knackered but for now at least, no bloody noise.
After taking the wheel off again, removing the wheel arch liner and not finding anything loose I found a video online of someone fixing their noises via lubricating all the ball joints and bushings with silicone spray. It's only a temporary fix if it worked but would highlight that the noise is not a tapping but an intermittent creaking.
Finally I managed to recreate the noise on demand by swerving the car left and right, unloading and loading the chassis further compounding the idea it's bushings or creaking roof.
Anyway to cut a boring story short I tried it out and it's only bloody worked. Absolutely dowsed the rubber bushings and spring seats, subframe mounts, etc in silicone, drove for about 5 to 10 minutes and it's stopped the noise. Made a video - it sounds more like creaking here than tapping because of the swerving to make it happen all the time. Before this it was just the odd tap tap noise, but elongated it sounds like a creak.
https://youtube.com/shorts/GsU_Lg-sR-I?si=BNhadpuI...
Now I'll need to figure out which bushing or rubber component is knackered but for now at least, no bloody noise.
Vince Noir said:
So, semi success, but not from the soundwave stuff which nearly made me vomit
After taking the wheel off again, removing the wheel arch liner and not finding anything loose I found a video online of someone fixing their noises via lubricating all the ball joints and bushings with silicone spray. It's only a temporary fix if it worked but would highlight that the noise is not a tapping but an intermittent creaking.
Finally I managed to recreate the noise on demand by swerving the car left and right, unloading and loading the chassis further compounding the idea it's bushings or creaking roof.
Anyway to cut a boring story short I tried it out and it's only bloody worked. Absolutely dowsed the rubber bushings and spring seats, subframe mounts, etc in silicone, drove for about 5 to 10 minutes and it's stopped the noise. Made a video - it sounds more like creaking here than tapping because of the swerving to make it happen all the time. Before this it was just the odd tap tap noise, but elongated it sounds like a creak.
https://youtube.com/shorts/GsU_Lg-sR-I?si=BNhadpuI...
Now I'll need to figure out which bushing or rubber component is knackered but for now at least, no bloody noise.
Ah; well least you're in the right ballpark... time to get the pry bar out After taking the wheel off again, removing the wheel arch liner and not finding anything loose I found a video online of someone fixing their noises via lubricating all the ball joints and bushings with silicone spray. It's only a temporary fix if it worked but would highlight that the noise is not a tapping but an intermittent creaking.
Finally I managed to recreate the noise on demand by swerving the car left and right, unloading and loading the chassis further compounding the idea it's bushings or creaking roof.
Anyway to cut a boring story short I tried it out and it's only bloody worked. Absolutely dowsed the rubber bushings and spring seats, subframe mounts, etc in silicone, drove for about 5 to 10 minutes and it's stopped the noise. Made a video - it sounds more like creaking here than tapping because of the swerving to make it happen all the time. Before this it was just the odd tap tap noise, but elongated it sounds like a creak.
https://youtube.com/shorts/GsU_Lg-sR-I?si=BNhadpuI...
Now I'll need to figure out which bushing or rubber component is knackered but for now at least, no bloody noise.
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