318 2008 n43 timing locking tool problem

[Stychlee]

Hi everyone, my son recently bought a 318 with the n43 engine and changed the spark plugs and broke off the thread and electrode in number one cylinder and drilled out the middle and used an ezi out to remove it, it wouldn't turn but when he tried removing the ezi out he accidentally screwed the plug into the cylinder and it locks up just before top dead center.i have purchased the locking tool but although I used to be a mechanic 15 years ago I'm not sure if I can remove the head and then use the tool to lock the cam and vanos into the correct position. Any help would be much appreciated guys

[I-am-the-reverend]

My friend at Sytners says:

"Time it up best you can and remove the head.

With the head off, get No.1 to TDC and fit the flywheel locking pin, down under the starter.

Lock the cams with the tool and No.1 lobes pointing upwards/towards each other. No.1 valves closed.

Fit the head (new bolts) and fit the chain and vanos units, centre bolts (must be new ones) finger tight only.

Set the chain tension with the screw in tool, fit the front locking plate for the timing discs and tighten the bolts up. 20nm and 90/90 degrees. Do not reuse as they are one time only stretch bolts.

It's worth replacing the timing chain and guides with it apart".

HTH.

[Stychlee]

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply in that much detail as it has confirmed what I was hoping would be the case. although I'm a qualified mechanic it's been a long time since I've been working full time in the trade due to having health problems. I got the locking tool and all the relevant gaskets plus head bolts but not the chain as it's my son's car not mine and he's on a budget.i have started it a couple of hours ago and was hoping I could do it all from the engine bay but the 2 manifolds don't look as simple to remove as when I first had a quick look.he stupidly tried starting it after failing to remove the broken plug and didn't realize it had fallen inside the cylinder at the time but it must have been almost at tdc as I only heard a quick click with a slight dink type sound as I presume it's got a safety system that alerts when something is stopping the rotation of the engine.used a endescope to look inside the cylinder and the piston crown has a slight mark/scratch so it looks promising..any further pointers are very welcome as I have not worked on this engine before.
Lee

[Stychlee]

Forgot to ask if the vanos only goes back on in one position as long as the cams are set correctly or is there a separate tool for that in my set. Didn't get any instructions with the set I bought yesterday from Amazon although most looks obvious where it goes,is the one that fits the front of the cam shafts for the vanos so isn't important what position the vanos is when removed as long as the tool is used on re fit? Is that right? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to mess this up as it's cost a lot of money for the various parts and tools

[Easternlight]

Hope and pray that bit of plug didn't hit an open valve!

good luck.

[I-am-the-reverend]

Stychlee said:

Forgot to ask if the vanos only goes back on in one position as long as the cams are set correctly or is there a separate tool for that in my set. Didn't get any instructions with the set I bought yesterday from Amazon although most looks obvious where it goes,is the one that fits the front of the cam shafts for the vanos so isn't important what position the vanos is when removed as long as the tool is used on re fit? Is that right? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to mess this up as it's cost a lot of money for the various parts and tools

The vanos units go on any way as they are neither timed nor keyed to the cams. It's the odd looking steel discs that must be timed as they trigger the camshaft sensors. Inlet (ein) and exhaust vanos units are different.

[Stychlee]

Thanks again for taking the time to reply to my questions.the engine must have been nearly at tdc when he tried starting it as it sounded like when a starter motor only clicks when the solenoid goes.we bought an endoscope that plugs into a phone from Amazon (25 quid and excellent picture) and the piston crown has only got a small scratch mark and being ally I'm hoping the valves are ok..I was more concerned about the con rod as I won't be able to inspect it working on my drive.just finished taking the exhaust manifold bolts off and was hoping for it to pull off enough to lift the head without working underneath to also unbolt the downpipe but the manifold is not moving off the studs and I can't see any bolts I have missed.the small heat shield is still on as it looks like you can't get to the bolts until the manifold is removed.. done head on 1996 m3 years ago and thought that was a pig job but this one is worse

[Stychlee]

A couple of questions to I am the reverend or anyone else that knows the answer to this. I have everything off the head on my bmw 318 n43 and need to know if it's the pin in my locking tool set to lock the crank shaft or is it the fork looking tool.and I know it goes below the starter motor somewhere but I can't see where.do I need to remove a bell housing bolt?
My other question is that I have removed the bolts from the camshaft/vanos and took off the pulleys,can I just remove the 2 torx bolts and the one at the far right where the guide pivots and lift the head off with the guide and chain in place or do I have to remove the crankshaft pulley and remove the chain and guide

[I-am-the-reverend]

OK so......

A locking pin goes through a hole in the block under the starter that should have a plastic blanking plug in it. It locks into the flywheel. Apparently the hole on autos takes more finding.

Undo the long allen sleeve bolts securing the upper chain guides to the head and lift the head up off the guides.