E30 325i and engine life
Discussion
A guy at work is selling a 4 dr 325i with 132k on the clock. Does anyone know how much life you could expect in the engine at this mileage without doing major work? What other things should you look for on an E30?
Oh and what would it be worth? Exterior not mint (crude touch ups in places) but black leather interior looks in good nick.
Any tips much appreciated.
Oh and what would it be worth? Exterior not mint (crude touch ups in places) but black leather interior looks in good nick.
Any tips much appreciated.
As long as the oil has been/continues to be changed regularly you could easily see 200,000 miles from it.
I had a 320i up to 176,000 miles with no problems (until I had a bump in it
)
I'd expect that 325i to fetch around £1000 at the most.
>> Edited by rich_b on Tuesday 22 March 11:46
I had a 320i up to 176,000 miles with no problems (until I had a bump in it
) I'd expect that 325i to fetch around £1000 at the most.
>> Edited by rich_b on Tuesday 22 March 11:46
For lots of E30-specific advice, visit www.e30zone.co.uk. Not trying to nick peeps from here - but there's not a lot abotu E30s on here! Yeah, probably not much more than a grand.
Check all 4 wheel arches very carefully, and watch out for cracked cylinder head. The heads are vulnerable and prone to overheatign - the bottom ends are good for twice that mileage IF you have full service history.
Check all 4 wheel arches very carefully, and watch out for cracked cylinder head. The heads are vulnerable and prone to overheatign - the bottom ends are good for twice that mileage IF you have full service history.
I doubt this was a specific e30 M3 problem but check and re-check the windscreen scuttle if the car has a sunroof.
There are sunroof reveal drainage channels that run down the A-post and of a car that age, without doubt, will be blocked. The water then pools in the channels and will rot the scuttle from the inside out.
Repairs on M3's are common (you can still get the top half of the scuttle from BMW) but it is expensive and may make the car uneconomical to buy.
There are sunroof reveal drainage channels that run down the A-post and of a car that age, without doubt, will be blocked. The water then pools in the channels and will rot the scuttle from the inside out.
Repairs on M3's are common (you can still get the top half of the scuttle from BMW) but it is expensive and may make the car uneconomical to buy.
My old man ran an early E30 320i from 20,000 miles to 234,000 with no engine problems at all, I t was my first car at 18, i sold it a year later for £600!
I also ran a 1989 325i Sport from 90 to 110k, original clutch, no engine work at all, and boy did I abuse that car, redline redline, limiter. it got a proper workout, trackdays etc...never missed a beat.
E30s are really tough old dogs.
I also ran a 1989 325i Sport from 90 to 110k, original clutch, no engine work at all, and boy did I abuse that car, redline redline, limiter. it got a proper workout, trackdays etc...never missed a beat.
E30s are really tough old dogs.
If serviced right and regularly most BMW engines are about immortal. On the small 6 just look after the cam belt, this is not a bad DIY job if you have a garage to work in, bit much for doing in the driveway, if you do not DIY make sure it's done by reputable shop, for one thing nicking a sprocket will cause the belt to fail prematurely. Belt's good for 60K miles per the book but I did mine every 40K.
That and some early cars did crack cylinder heads. In general one should keep his foot out of it till an engine is good and warm, but more so here since the heads are a known weak spot. Rumor has it that the later cars had an updated head that's better. Usually the failure is gradual enough you get warning and R&Ring a head is not that big a deal.
This has mechanically adjusted valve clearance, but they dont' move much, and are easy to adjust no shims to buy.
If you can get it for the prices quoted, if this is a good car, not a rebuilt wreck, and rust free, you can't go wrong.
That and some early cars did crack cylinder heads. In general one should keep his foot out of it till an engine is good and warm, but more so here since the heads are a known weak spot. Rumor has it that the later cars had an updated head that's better. Usually the failure is gradual enough you get warning and R&Ring a head is not that big a deal.
This has mechanically adjusted valve clearance, but they dont' move much, and are easy to adjust no shims to buy.
If you can get it for the prices quoted, if this is a good car, not a rebuilt wreck, and rust free, you can't go wrong.
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