E91 Straight Six Bearding

E91 Straight Six Bearding

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zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 19th April 2018
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ferrisbueller said:
lord trumpton said:
Having read this thread with interest it seems that in the 330i then slightly lesser powered N52 is preferred over the N53?

Mines a 2006 car with a silver top engine - I assume its the N52 then?

If the above is correct, why is the N52 3.0 the preferred one of the two
Can't speak for others but I prefer it because there's less to go wrong and the additional cost of the N53 doesn't come with enough benefit to justify it IMO.
Main one iirc is the N53 is DI, the HPFP (& often injectors) fail, which is quite pricey to sort. That and having to get the inlet ports walnut blasted as they coke up and reduce power.
The N52 is port injected and generally thought of as more reliable.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 26th April 2018
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ATM said:
helix402 said:
ATM said:
Had the car scanned again today as it is going into limp mode occasionally. Apparently the car believes there is a fault with the exhaust cam sensor and possibly the vanos boost pressure something or other. My guy at work recommended doing the exhaust cam sensor first and then see what happens. Anyone tackled this?

Also the car complains about the battery regularly. Is this a simple swap out or does it need coding to the car like some of these crazy stop start cars need these days?
A new battery does need registration on your car. You can diy it with Carly/Carista or gen BMW diagnostic software.
I've not had a problem with the car starting even after being stood for a couple if weeks so could it have been replaced already and not coded?
You could - and it would work....

However AFAIK, the whole point of basically telling the car it has a new battery and the size of it, is that the bmw car software can choose the most appropriate charging cycle to fully charge your battery properly and as nicely as possible depending on it's capacity and age - and then monitor it's life as it goes...and prob some other trickery too.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 26th April 2018
quotequote all
lord trumpton said:
Here's a few pics of my E91 330i SE

Its a 2006 N52 with a 6MT.

It was first registered to BMW in 2006 then owned by a retired bloke since 2007 right up until a couple of weeks ago when I bought it. It's covered a grand total of 23k miles with a FSH. Its absolutely mint and as tight as a drum. It's engine is a cracker (Ive just sold my F10 M5 and dont feel short changed)!

etc.
Must say sir, that is brilliant! Opposite end of the scale to my leggy 200 and something thousand mile n52 E91!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 26th April 2018
quotequote all
lord trumpton said:
zippyonline said:
Must say sir, that is brilliant! Opposite end of the scale to my leggy 200 and something thousand mile n52 E91!
200k miles that's a fantastic attainment. Seems they are capable of lasting a long time.

Any pics ?
See first page of the thread!

Here's the latest photo I have online...


104 (14-04-2018) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Latest photo I have online of it looking good...


303 (30-10-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Often found doing stuff like this:


042 (11-02-2018) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

or this:


282 (09-10-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

and constantly hauls bikes about:


288 (15-10-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Load more on the flickr in amongst my daily life - photo a day project innit.

helix402 said:
200? Nothing! This was 18 years old and 250k:
What was your final "resting" mileage Helix? I'm only at 12 and a bit years, and currently I see no reason why I shouldn't be heading in a similar direction to yours.


zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 26th April 2018
quotequote all
Mr Trumpton,

Given the age and mileage your car is at – worth you checking to see if you have the “modified fuel breather pipe”. Well known issue for early E9x is that the fuel breather pipe would chafe against the inner wheel well, until it made a hole. Then whenever you brim the tank, fuel would leak out of the hole. To replace the pipe is a bit of a pain as you have to drop the fuel tank. BMW added a bit of protective pipe to the fuel breather pipe which prevents this happening.

Most cars would be high enough mileage that they have already had this issue, and therefore it’s either been fixed, or people only half fill their tank! Yours is probably new enough it’s never happened – and it may or may not have been rectified by BMW. The protective pipe is a few quid from BMW, and super easy to install yourself, just pull back the wheel well and slip over the breather pipe – simples. Really is a case of a stitch in time saves 900 in this case!!

It’s a fairly well documented issue, shouldn’t take long to find the information online. I can dig up the part number for the bit of protective tube you need if you need it.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 26th April 2018
quotequote all
helix402 said:
zippyonline said:
Mr Trumpton,

Given the age and mileage your car is at – worth you checking to see if you have the “modified fuel breather pipe”. Well known issue for early E9x is that the fuel breather pipe would chafe against the inner wheel well, until it made a hole. Then whenever you brim the tank, fuel would leak out of the hole. To replace the pipe is a bit of a pain as you have to drop the fuel tank. BMW added a bit of protective pipe to the fuel breather pipe which prevents this happening.

Most cars would be high enough mileage that they have already had this issue, and therefore it’s either been fixed, or people only half fill their tank! Yours is probably new enough it’s never happened – and it may or may not have been rectified by BMW. The protective pipe is a few quid from BMW, and super easy to install yourself, just pull back the wheel well and slip over the breather pipe – simples. Really is a case of a stitch in time saves 900 in this case!!

It’s a fairly well documented issue, shouldn’t take long to find the information online. I can dig up the part number for the bit of protective tube you need if you need it.
Top advice. However the filler pipe can be changed without removing the tank. Just lower it down and it can be left in situ.
Yeah the filler pipe can, the breather pipe - I tried to do it in situ, and just couldn't manage it, so dropped the tank! Gave everything a good scrub, and treated with Bilt Hamber dynax S50 though, so wasn't a wasted exercise. Also new doughnuts since I took the prop off too.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 27th April 2018
quotequote all
lord trumpton said:
If you would be kind enough to post up the number I'd really appreciate it and get right on it
16124390434

If you look at this thread [ http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=817... ], the first post is a DIY if you have to drop the tank the change the breather pipe. The last couple of photos in the first post show you the breather pipe and what it looks like with the protective tube! Just drop the arch line to see.

Edit: Better set of photos here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=414...

RE: Wheels. I'd quite like some BBS CH-R's for mine, I do like Y spoke rims. The classic Alpina Rims I think look good on an SE but don't quite suit an M Sport (and not mine with the obvious scorpion exhaust!). And those BMW Motorsport rims for the E90 I quite like too (style 216?).
Quite happy with my style 188s in 17" for the moment - but in a bit of a hurry with tyres when I discovered I'd bought a car with a cracked 193s!




Edited by zippyonline on Friday 27th April 09:25

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Monday 30th April 2018
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So I went to swap out my polybushes with OEM parts since they'd failed. I could just slide the new ball joint on the wheel carrier with my hand (proper part from BMW)...so er need a new wheel carrier (eeek!)

Anyone know the differences between the various models on the E9x (And E8x) platforms? I'm having a bit of a struggle running through part numbers on realoem... Buying new would be prohibitively expensive. I have no idea how much fun I'll have getting the driveshafts out either - although I do have an 8T hydraulic puller which should help!

Any help (helix?) greatly appreciated.

I've popped the polybush back in for now, but not gonna drive it as the rear end is a bit wobbly... de ja vu!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
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Here's some ride height tech data for you Swervin:

Ride level height in normal position(attach tape measure to bottom middle of rim flange and measure to loweredge of wheel arch)

Tolerance ride height in
- normal position max. ± 10 mm
- design position max. ± 2 mm

Difference ride height between left/right in
- normal position 10 mm
- design position 2 mm

Series
Std:
18" rim 593mm

Low-slung sports suspension
18" rim 577mm

Rough road package
18" rim 610mm

IIRC, this should be with vehicle on level, correct tyre pressures and with the following load:

2 x 68 kg on front seats (seats in central position);
1 x 68 kg on rear seat (centre);
1 x 21 kg in luggage compartment (centre) and full fuel tank.

See where that gets you!

(Info from TIS / online workshop manual I could find)


Edited by zippyonline on Thursday 3rd May 11:58

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 3rd May 2018
quotequote all
JakeT said:
I am not a metallurgist, but I believe that the springs can sag over time. This could have led to your difference in ride height?
And the rubber mountings can deform too!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 4th May 2018
quotequote all
I worked out the owner profiles for my car based on the MOT history and my car archaeology whilst fiddling with things. (may have missed another owner in there!)

1. High mileage driver, threw it into BMW and just threw the cash at it.
2. Ran it on a bit of a shoestring, eventually stuff wore out and he flogged it. Was a bit scene with a dodgy font number plate and stuff.
3. Fixed half the problems from the previous owner and fitted the birds suspension kit, then flogged it.
4. Realised there were still some issue remaining, tarted it up, then sold it.
5. Me - Gradually fixing other half of problems (including new ones as they crop up, VANOS, DISA valve).

It technically had a full BMW service history with it when I got it, but I don’t really think an oil+filter at BMW every 20k miles counts. I like to think my over-detailed spreadsheet of every single bit of maintenance/fixing I’ve done, with receipts and photos and every fuel fill up would be more than suffice….not that I think I’m gonna sell this car. Kinda goes to show number of owners doesn’t mean a great deal I guess.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 4th May 2018
quotequote all
ferrisbueller said:
zippyonline said:
I worked out the owner profiles for my car based on the MOT history and my car archaeology whilst fiddling with things. (may have missed another owner in there!)

1. High mileage driver, threw it into BMW and just threw the cash at it.
2. Ran it on a bit of a shoestring, eventually stuff wore out and he flogged it. Was a bit scene with a dodgy font number plate and stuff.
3. Fixed half the problems from the previous owner and fitted the birds suspension kit, then flogged it.
4. Realised there were still some issue remaining, sorted a few more or them and made it scrub up well for 180k+ miles before selling it.
5. Me - Gradually fixing other half of problems (including new ones as they crop up, VANOS, DISA valve).

It technically had a full BMW service history with it when I got it, but I don’t really think an oil+filter at BMW every 20k miles counts. I like to think my over-detailed spreadsheet of every single bit of maintenance/fixing I’ve done, with receipts and photos and every fuel fill up would be more than suffice….not that I think I’m gonna sell this car. Kinda goes to show number of owners doesn’t mean a great deal I guess.
I believe I personally know #4 - not sure that is worded as well as it could be.
For clarity, I don’t mean anything negative towards any previous owners on that list, it’s just a summary of observations since owning car – which I’m only guessing from odd scraps of paperwork and the MOT history – I don’t actually know any of this and I could be way wide of the mark. I’ve edited words in the quote above to be worded perhaps better. I have no beef with any previous owners or anything. That said, I did have a bit of a bad start to my ownership of the car, which could well have been luck, but limping the car back on collapsed suspension whilst it also wanting to throw me off the road at every opportunity not long after owning the car (and a clean bill of health at the MOT place!) is not an experience I want to repeat!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 31st May 2018
quotequote all
stevesuk said:
This might have been asked already - but how much oil does your N52 consume? Just topped up after the amber oil light came on. That's 4L added since October last year - probably about 6,000 to 7,000 miles ago.

Is that a bit on the high side?

I think we do have a minor leak on the left hand side of the engine. There's some oily black residue around the area where you can see the purple gasket sandwiched between the block - beside the coolant head tank. I assume that's the rocker cover gasket?

However - there's no way that what I can see there accounts for 4 litres of the stuff (I imagine if 4 litres had leaked out there, the engine bay would be a filthy mess).

What grade of oil are you using? The Castrol website recommended Castrol Edge 0W-30 - might we benefit from a slightly thicker grade?
On my N52 (200k miles now) I'm using Castrol Edge 0W-30, I change it about every 6k miles. I probably top up about maybe 0.5 litre in between oil changes, maybe a bit less. I had a slightly leaky rocker cover, which I changed. The sump gasket is leaking ever so slightly, like not even enough to be a drip really, i keep an eye on it when I change oil or whenever I have to whip off the undertray. The heat exchanger gasket by the oil filter has literally just started to go too, but have bought the gasket to change that next time I do an oil change. I think basically a combination of lots of possible places to leak, and burning a bit has a cumulative effect, although 4 litres is a lot 0 like you say, must be burning it somehow/where.
My rocker cover gasket is orange.

When you say left hand side of the engine, do you mean exhaust side? The engine slants that way, so oil is more likely to leak out that side. If you're leaking out on the inlet side, could be something to do with the breather system?


065 (16-03-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 31st May 2018
quotequote all
stevesuk said:
They recently changed the water pump and thermostat, which I assume would have involved stripping down a lot of stuff? (at least removing the plastic covers?) - yet they didn't mention oil leaks or problems. So I assume its not a serious leak.
I've done that too, it's not too bad and can all be done pretty much from underneath the car. You might have a closer look at oil leaking from say the sump and any that works it way down - I guess the aftermath of any leak fro above! Generally speaking though, a little oil goes a long way, so you'd see if you had a serious leak, and smell it as some would inevitably get on the exhaust. My RX-8 on the other hand, that drinks oil (but then again, it's supposed to!).

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 31st May 2018
quotequote all
Mike335i said:
I had a rocker cover gasket leak on my N54 (I guess it must be very similar to the n53/n52), it seems that this is a common issue and cost me about £600
The actual gasket wasn't expensive, but it is a surprisingly time consuming task for what it is! N54 would be worse as it's DI, whereas the N52 is port injected which is one less thing to worry about.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 1st June 2018
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Oil breather pipes and the oil separator can run up to nearly £100 in parts (if you have to replace a load of pipes if say you mullered them on removal, or just for best practice). The CCV is heated too, so that can fail, as are some of the pipes on the system. Oh, and it's located within the inlet manifold, so that can be a bit of a PITA to get to! You could maybe slip the end off the large DISA valve (just move airbox PS reservoir out of the way) and see how much oil is inside your manifold?

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 1st June 2018
quotequote all
gizlaroc said:
Lot of guys in Germany move to a 10w40 when they get to 120000km, say this pretty much stops any oil top ups between services.

Alpina also say you need to do the same with their cars using the same engine.
Hmm, handy information, thanks.

It also happens to be what I use in my RX-8, and that uses a lot of oil too!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 1st June 2018
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Some more oil information, the Bentley repair manual says:

Engine oil specification for N51, N52, N52KP or N54 engine

BMW long-life rating (LL-01) synthetic oils for US market: API
o Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE OW - 30 rating
o Mobil 1 SAE OW - 40 SM
o Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra or higher SAE 5W- 30
o Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W- 30

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Sunday 3rd June 2018
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lord trumpton said:
Is an e91 330i manual considered 'rare and desirable ' as it were?

If so why? I'd would have assumed people would seek an auto?
I have manual box, and my reasons mainly boil down to:

1. I find it the e91 just about chuckable enough to do "enthusiastic driving", and with the type of driving I typically do (mostly a combination of off peak motorway runs and off peak welsh roads) that the extra "driver engagement" I get is worth it. When you get the open stretches of road where your grabbing gears and the perfectly executed heel-toe change, it still makes me smile. Going mountain biking in wales/scotland on a vaguely regular basis means I also drive down some pretty cool roads that are perfect for this.

2. I worry less about the manual box than an auto when I'm spannering on my car rather than having a warranty.


Don't get me wrong, I totally get autos in this day and age, I borrowed my old man's F11 520d with the ZF 8-speed, and with the auto handbrake and I was driving it what you'd classify as more normal driving conditions, it made traffic queues and driving so easy and no hassle, that I'd have one of these modern autos in a heartbeat if I had warranty and was doing more normal driving.

Each to their own, and what they're using it for I guess.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Monday 4th June 2018
quotequote all
Had similar iirc, but only when I hadn't plugged one of the crank sensors back in and fired it up. (shouldn't really admit to being that stupid, but it may help!)