E91 Straight Six Bearding

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ferrisbueller said:

Rear wheel looks too far into the arch. Has it got the right rims in the right corners?

It might be coz of square setup vs staggered?

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ferrisbueller said:

zippyonline said:

ferrisbueller said:

Rear wheel looks too far into the arch. Has it got the right rims in the right corners?

It might be coz of square setup vs staggered?

Tbf I'm not sure if E90s came on "square" 18s. MVs should be staggered though? IMO, that's got fronts on the rear.

Had a quick look and I think 18s (and possibly 17s, too) are staggered only.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Sunday 25th February 23:49

Not near my car at the moment, but the tyre pressure sticker thingy by the door gives you the options. I remember a square setup on them, but stock 18 M sport are staggered. I do have a friend who bought an SE with MV3 wheels on it - they're square setup - and they don't know anything about cars!

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Snow... by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Snow's higher up than the splitter. It really acted like a snow plough last time I drove it in the snow, and there was less of it than there is now.

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Mine came with some brand new cheapo brembo's (iirc) just under 20k miles ago, I've got a bit of brake shudder on them noticeable when braking hard - so doesn't sound like an isolated case. I have a set of F3x brembo 4 pots and accompanying BMW discs to replace them with though, so I'm not too bothered for the moment as everything seems to be working ok otherwise - I'll change them once the bad weather has passed.

I have got a suspension clunk getting worse on the rear though, the only things I haven't replaced are the shock top mounts and the drop links - so I'll do them the next sunny weekend available as I have the parts sitting in the garage.

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Logic 7 in mine sounds good

full upgrade sets come up on e90post/ebay etc. from time to time...still a fair bit of cash though.

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Mike335i said:

two tweeters on the parcel shelf,

That's in the roof lining on the estate!

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They all get like that sir. Mine was gradually reducing in speed and range of motion.

If you pop the glass hatch bit open - you can manually moved the wiper blade arm. I then sprayed a load of WD40 on the mechanism and then manually moved it back and forward - it gradually freed up as the crap washed through. I then used ACF50 as something a bit more long term once I'd done the "free-ing up".

I do it as regular maintenance now - coz if you think about it, the washer jet sprays a load of effectively degreaser flusher on the mechanism every time you use it!

I spose eventually I might need to pop the shaft apart, clean it up and pack with grease, but until then, regular spraying seems to keep it sweet.

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ATM said:

So spray the arm bearing / seal in the glass or the mechanism itself in the bootlid?

The bit in the glass bit - like you say it's the stiff bit. Mine noticeably became easier as I went back and forth and lubed it up. I noticed my wiper arm moved more quickly/easily in use after this too.

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Swervin_Mervin said:

Anyone noticed their rear wiper arm beginning to dropp with age, when sat at rest? Only had a brief look and it appears to be wear to the plastic in the main part of hatch where the drive motor is. Not had a proper look though.

Once you've had a couple of problems with your own rear wiper, I found myself looking at everyone elses! I've noticed things such as reduced swept path (first tell tale sign of it getting stiff), stuck somewhere half way or something, and the bit of droop.

The "droop" - I've not seen one in motion with it - but if it's like the whole swept path has shifted anti-clockwise a bit, you should (deeding on how rusted the spline is) be able to literally undo the nut for the wiper arm, pop it off and rotate round a couple of splines to compensate. I suspect with droop, it's been knocked once, or had a bad day, or something - it's not a BMW only thing.

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Mr Tidy said:

survivalist said:

Just when everything was going so well. I’m guessing water pump. Remember reading up on the N54 335i before buying one and one forum member commented ‘it’s a bulletproof engine, but everything bolted to it is made of chocolate’.

That's a bummer OP.

But thanks to your photo at least I know what to expect when it happens to my 325i - whoever thought it was a good idea not to fit a temperature gauge?

I had a water pump go on my first Z4 Coupe with an N52 engine at 60K miles and 9 years in December 2015. Not the time of year to be messing with it outdoors, so I took it to my BMW Indy who fitted an OEM pump that cost £500! I've since found out it's a Pierburg pump, and they're around £300 from EuroCarParts.

Good luck getting your car sported.

The reason for not fitting the temperature gauge iirc is that it would be dancing all over the place when you drive, so people would go into bmw asking about it. It runs the engine hotter or cooler depending on whether it’s in an “economy” mode or a “performance” mode. TBH, most car temp gauges only tell you if it’s under temp, at temp or overheating anyway.

I changed the waterpump on mine at 180something k miles – it was the original but still operating…that said, it was knackered and you could rattle the whole waterpump when I took it off. Not too bad a job, a bit fiddly and some of the hoses are a bit tight, but made easier by the fact it can just self bleed coz it’s an electric pump.


140 (20-05-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Also change your 'stat at the same time, it's likely stuck open!

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helix402 said:

JakeT said:

At first glance I thought that WP was a turbo. The self bleeding is so cool. Wish it could somehow be done with a mechanical pump.

They’re not actually self bleeding, you might get away with not doing the bleed procedure but there is one. It needs to be done with BMW diagnostic software (or alternatively with something like Autologic) it runs the pump at different speeds for approx 12 mins (forgot the exact time).

You don’t need software, you can “turn ignition ON (do not start engine), set temperature controls in vehicle interior to full warm and blower fan speed to Low. Press accelerator pedal to floor and hold down for ten seconds. Electric coolant pump will run for about 12 minutes to circulate coolant and bleed air from cooling system Once pump has run the cycle, check level of coolant in expansion tank and adjust as needed. Start and run engine at idle until it reaches operating temperature and check cooling system for leaks. “.

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I changed my waterpump at close to 190k miles, and it was still working when I did – no overheating or coolant use or anything. It did have an electric hum thought when parked up, and when I removed it, I could rattle the shaft considerably!

I ticked over 200k miles at the weekend – missed the magic moment, but here’s a photo @ 200,013 miles.


075 (16-03-2018) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

Gonna change the fuel filter now!

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ferrisbueller said:

TheGreatSoprendo said:

ExVantagemech.. said:

Might be totally irrelevant, but have you got parking sensors that work intermittently? Im sure I had the cruise cut on me once when another car got quite close at 70 mph - Im wondering if it could be linked to a failing sensor that triggers the cruise on/off. Im not absolutely sure but worth a thought. If it were abs / speed sensor it would light up with ABS/ DSC etc as they would be affected.

Parking sensors are working fine.

Does your cruise have the braking function?

Straight 6 E9x's with cruise have braking function, 4 pots do not. I posted some more nerdtastic stuff about it somewhere earlier in the thread (or about the braking function anyway) which includes funky facts like the hill hold brake function is a straight 6 thing only.

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Swervin_Mervin said:

zippyonline said:

ferrisbueller said:

TheGreatSoprendo said:

ExVantagemech.. said:

Might be totally irrelevant, but have you got parking sensors that work intermittently? Im sure I had the cruise cut on me once when another car got quite close at 70 mph - Im wondering if it could be linked to a failing sensor that triggers the cruise on/off. Im not absolutely sure but worth a thought. If it were abs / speed sensor it would light up with ABS/ DSC etc as they would be affected.

Parking sensors are working fine.

Does your cruise have the braking function?

Straight 6 E9x's with cruise have braking function, 4 pots do not. I posted some more nerdtastic stuff about it somewhere earlier in the thread (or about the braking function anyway) which includes funky facts like the hill hold brake function is a straight 6 thing only.

Ah so I don't have sticky brakes then?!

You could have both!

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Swervin_Mervin said:

zippyonline said:

You could have both!

It's been like it since I got it 6yrs/50k ago and only recently had new rear pads, so I'm guessing it must be the hold function. Not sure what the point is though - I'd much rather sit with foot on brake. In fact, I think I've unstuck it in the past by jigging back and forth in the driver's seat and shouting "come on!"

It only holds for 10 seconds or so - saves buggering about with a handbrake for a hill start. I discovered it when parking up on the drive, realising I was a bit close to the garage, and wanting to just roll back and thought "hold on, why aren't you rolling back", and then suddenly it just rolled back 10 seconds later. I then did some reading/experimenting to work out what had happened!
Also handy if you say injure yourself mountain biking and find pulling the handbrake for a hill start painful..

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How handy on the spanners are you Swervin? A day should be plenty of time if you're competent, it's not a terrible job. I bought my Pierberg from ECP (just in case I needed to do a warranty return), and got a genuine stat off eBay. You'll save yourself a fair packet too!

On Sunday, a motorbike smashed my wing mirror off (I was minding my own business on my side of the road, trundling at 20-25mph through my village, and 50 or so bikes coming the other way in a group ride out, and one just rode into my mirror). Managed to find all the plastic and I've stuck it back on for now as a temporary fix, but the mirror glass is smashed, and so is the shadowline trim bit actually on the door. I've sourced a replacement off eBay which I'll use for the trims, but as I have the auto-dip mirror, it's proving quite costly / difficult to find a replacement proper mirror glass. I've got a cheapy one in there for the moment, but would obvs like my all singing/dancing one back in there - anyone got any suggestions?

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helix402 said:

Cruise control uses a sensor on the brake pedal and on the clutch master cylinder to deactivate it.

But the 6 cylinder E9x is a bit of an anomaly with cruise control systems in that the clutch doesn't disable it! (I learnt this when on cruise coming up to a roundabout, thought I'd drop a cog to 1. disable cruise and 2. introduce some engine braking...but what I did was disengage drive coz clutch was pressed, then it accelerated hard back up to cruise control speed as I'd put it in a more responsive gear! Used the brake and all was fine, then looked it all up...)

ATM said:

I had an ABS warning light come on yesterday. Guy at work scanned it with the Snap On tool and it said front left wheel speed sensor. So I guess I need one of them. Anyone tackled this job?

My car has a receipt for one somewhere on it's history. I'd check you haven't just chaffed the cable somewhere first. Otherwise you may be having fun with a seized in sensor as per every other wheel speed sensor in a hub ever!

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Sounds like it could juts be a bit of crap on the sensor, or it needs a clean or something...or a dangly sparky wire

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ferrisbueller said:

cerb4.5lee said:

ExVantagemech.. said:

Talking of gearing, does anyone else feel 1st is stupidly low? 06 325i E91 spanish, 1st to me is like a couple feet then grab 2nd. Like BMW were expecting you to carry 4 passengers and tow a caravan....

I never thought the N52 engine dealt with weight that well and I remember squeezing 4 adults and a child in my E90 330i. We all chuckled at how it struggled with the extra weight on top of its already heavy kerbweight...never mind a caravan!

I'm guessing the N52 engine works well in a Z4 with it being only a 2 seater and a bit lighter car. I love the N52 engine for its smoothness but its not very punchy in the 3 series for me.

Most of my time is spent with one or two occupants in my E90 and it never feels short on pace. I don't think they're particularly heavy but any car will feel the impact of an additional 200 kg. No doubt a 330d or 335i/d will cope with that mass better but that's just physics. What I can say is that an N52'd E90 is quicker than an M54'd E85.

I find the gearing pretty pretty good for road use, top of 3rd gets you to a ton when messing about, but put it in 6th on cruise and it's a comfortable civilised place to be whilst still making good pace. I often do cross country dashes after work (Essex/Suffolk to Wales for example), so it's a good mix for the motorway whilst retaining some playfulness once I hit the empty welsh mountain roads but can overtake well. I don't think it's the nicest gearbox in the world, but it's alright.

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I’m a sad git and keep a spreadsheet of every single fuel fill up and every single bit of maintenance I do to keep an idea of what’s happening on my car. I’ve done about 20k miles on my late 05 N52 330i – manual, it’s recently ticked over 200k miles. I’m on a life average (for my 20k miles) of just over 28mpg, I don’t really commute much or do much town driving, I do a fair bit of motorway and most often transporting mountain bikes across the country to wales etc, where I’ll then be honing across “mountain roads”. My OBC has an average speed of normally somewhere just above 50mph, it often see’s triple digits, and I do give it some stick on the mountain roads (i.e redline in 2nd).

On a run including a bit of 'mountain road', the tank fill-up is about 30mpg. If I’ve been doing just getting places round mountain roads and having fun, I see 23mpg - that's reasonable hooning - but not flat out for any length of time because tbh it's difficult to find anywhere to be able to just stay on it without catching other traffic up etc. - It's happened occasionally though...

Not that I bought the car with fuel economy in mind. It’s a tiny bit worse than my 100bhp FWD 1.6 litre hatchback, so basically it’s affordable – which is what matters!