n57 bad rattle, rod bearings?
Discussion
If it's 35-40C in Utah, those temps are probably acceptable.
Its only 16C in the UK currently and my 330d's coolant temp sits at 89C on a run. The fans never come on during my daily 80 mile commute. Highest temp I've seen during my 2 year ownership is 98C, and that was when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour. I have start/stop coded to off by default.
Its only 16C in the UK currently and my 330d's coolant temp sits at 89C on a run. The fans never come on during my daily 80 mile commute. Highest temp I've seen during my 2 year ownership is 98C, and that was when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour. I have start/stop coded to off by default.
What's the part number on your new crankshaft Marcel? It's been pointed out to me that there is an 8-counterweight crankshaft (p/n ending in 970) and sure enough that is what shows for our F26. It shows a previous p/n as being ended. Our existing crank has 4CW and is forged. Your new one has 4 as well. I'm just trying to get a clear picture on crank variations. The aftermarket has a few choices too, but it looks like a choice of 8CW cast steel and 4CW forged, whereas I suspect OEM ***970 to be 8CW forged, but not too sure.
marcelN57 said:
Part number that I ordered is: 11217812954
I didn't know there are different versions! I looked the number up in TIS and the BMW dealer I ordered it from confirmed it's a match for my VIN.
Thanks Marcel. I think the OEM 8-counterweight might be intended for manual transmission originally but is now advertised as standard, i.e. they stopped with the 8-CW being specific to the manual transmission (due to harsher engagement of a clutch vs a torque converter), and maybe just settled on one SKU for stock/manufacturing reasons, but I wonder if the 4CW might be the better choice maybe, and that is what you got. RealOEM shows the AT-Crankshaft being ended, and now just 'Crankshaft' available, and shows 8 counterweights. Your part number doesn't come up on RealOEM but maybe it's not up to date.I didn't know there are different versions! I looked the number up in TIS and the BMW dealer I ordered it from confirmed it's a match for my VIN.
I think I've finally finished my assessment of the aftermarket. From what I can tell there are Chinese crankshafts - no thanks, and then there is Motus of Turkey, and Genmot of Turkey. Both no good. IPSA are reboxing Motus and possibly Genmot too.
There's a guy posting on Youtube of his trouble with Genmot LandRover crankshafts (9 out of 75 were bent, one snapped in service much like OEM do - have to wonder if that's not an inherent design/shape flaw though).: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8BTYQNNtV8
Some talk of Genmot and Motus crankshafts on an N57 too on this Polish forum: https://www.bmwklubpolska.pl/forum/topic/206229-n5...
So I'll be looking at OEM too. Unfortunately I am seeing prices of around £2000 for an OEM crank though. I'll start picking up the phone and asking nicely for discounts.
Interesting on the 8 counterweight one. Can you share a photo / link to it how they look like? I don't think I've seen them during my research for this.
Two more ideas to source OE ones:
1. Leebmann24 very reputable online dealer based out of Germany. Bought from them before. They don't ship to US, but I think they do ship to UK. The linked part is the one that I ordered, already quite a bit cheaper than your quote.
They also have the best BMW online parts catalogue that I'm aware of. Would encourage you to put in your VIN and see which part number they come up with.
2. Sometimes there are used ones on eBay. Right now there is only this one here out of Canada. It has been there since I looked. I was interested but price was too high for my taste, given I could get a new one for only $400 more. I offered $900 and he declined. I don't know, maybe worth trying again?
I've bought a few parts from scrap yards in the UK including a cylinder head last year, and transatlantic shipping to US was surprisingly quick (less than a week) and straightforward. Maybe something to consider.
I agree with your assessment of the aftermarket ones. Unless you can find some engine rebuilder who used dozens of these with demonstrable success, would leave my hands off it given the considerable risk and relatively small cost savings relative to everything involved in the repair.
Good luck!
Two more ideas to source OE ones:
1. Leebmann24 very reputable online dealer based out of Germany. Bought from them before. They don't ship to US, but I think they do ship to UK. The linked part is the one that I ordered, already quite a bit cheaper than your quote.
They also have the best BMW online parts catalogue that I'm aware of. Would encourage you to put in your VIN and see which part number they come up with.
2. Sometimes there are used ones on eBay. Right now there is only this one here out of Canada. It has been there since I looked. I was interested but price was too high for my taste, given I could get a new one for only $400 more. I offered $900 and he declined. I don't know, maybe worth trying again?
I've bought a few parts from scrap yards in the UK including a cylinder head last year, and transatlantic shipping to US was surprisingly quick (less than a week) and straightforward. Maybe something to consider.
I agree with your assessment of the aftermarket ones. Unless you can find some engine rebuilder who used dozens of these with demonstrable success, would leave my hands off it given the considerable risk and relatively small cost savings relative to everything involved in the repair.
Good luck!
Edited by marcelN57 on Saturday 13th July 20:42
by the way, here a link to the spreadsheet with all the parts I used
Probably most of the suppliers are not relevant for you, but maybe some of it is helpful.
Also, definitely not all the parts are generally required. I broke a few things during disassembly because parts were old and brittle and I was impatient (e.g. the SCR coolant hose modules, the crankshaft position sensor connector) or because I forgot do things in the right order (e.g. to dismount the torque converter from the flywheel, so I needed to replace some ATF). Other things were broken before and I took the opportunity to fix them (e.g. CCV hose).
I also bought a used camshaft carrier assembly because some of the bearings in mine had some wear which I suspected was caused by spun rod material debris in the oil. However the used one I received had significantly more wear all around, so I ended up re-using mine.
There are other things that are probably advisable to renew if you have to pull the head, like valve cover gasket, that I skipped - this is because I just replaced all of that when I had to replace the cylinder head last year.
Probably most of the suppliers are not relevant for you, but maybe some of it is helpful.
Also, definitely not all the parts are generally required. I broke a few things during disassembly because parts were old and brittle and I was impatient (e.g. the SCR coolant hose modules, the crankshaft position sensor connector) or because I forgot do things in the right order (e.g. to dismount the torque converter from the flywheel, so I needed to replace some ATF). Other things were broken before and I took the opportunity to fix them (e.g. CCV hose).
I also bought a used camshaft carrier assembly because some of the bearings in mine had some wear which I suspected was caused by spun rod material debris in the oil. However the used one I received had significantly more wear all around, so I ended up re-using mine.
There are other things that are probably advisable to renew if you have to pull the head, like valve cover gasket, that I skipped - this is because I just replaced all of that when I had to replace the cylinder head last year.
Edited by marcelN57 on Saturday 13th July 21:33
Edited by marcelN57 on Saturday 13th July 21:36
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