E91 Straight Six Bearding

E91 Straight Six Bearding

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zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Tuesday 16th April 2019
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MajorMantra said:
Could I get a sanity check on my N52 oil change? It's a while since I last did this and I'm having a mental blank about how the filter assembly goes together. I think the little insert sits in the spring as pictured with the nipple pointing upwards, but I'm doubting myself. Does this look right?

Incidentally, most guides show the whole cage assembly remaining in the cap, but mine has separated both times I've had it out. Nothing appears to be broken, however.

Hmm, never seen this before. Mine's never come apart before.... I guess you sorted it?

Swervin_Mervin said:
helix402 said:
If you have the N52 it won’t be an injector. It’ll be a plug or coil, probably a coil.

Clear fault code and swop coil to another cylinder. See if fault follows.

Re other faults, clear all and ignore until a warning light comes on. The abs ones will are due to a faulty internal pressure sensor in the abs unit and are an early warning that the abs unit will require a rebuild or replacement as some point.
Ta. Injector cropped up on a few N52 threads following coil and plug swap outs, and specifically with the misfire at low tank code.

I've cleared all codes for now and will monitor this week. Can hopefully find time at the weekend to check the plug over and try the coil swap if the plug appears ok. Trouble is it's inconsistent - not happening every day.
Keep us posted. Coils are only £20 or so from ECP, make sure you get the right ones, there's 3 variants listed (Bosch iirc). Back when I ordered mine, the N52 happened to be the cheapest of the variants. If you get stuck, I have my old ones which did 190k miles or so, but were still fine (well apart from 1 which had a mis, but I replaced the whole lot anyway), you'd be welcome to borrow one.



rallycross said:
Its really common I have had this done to a 125i and a 130i.
The ABS rings (reluctors) are only a few pounds each, fitting them requires d/shaft off, so depends how rusty the bolts are, could be 1hr job or 3 hr job if unlucky.
Are you sure it was a 130i? My 330i (and when checking part numbers, I think also 335i and 335d..and possibly 330d) get drive speed from the wheel bearing, not a toothed ring on the driveshaft (coz larger driveshafts I think). So when you change your wheel bearing on those ones, make sure you put it in the right way round!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Monday 13th May 2019
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Ah, missed a few things on here!

MajorMantra said:
MajorMantra said:
Has anyone had any issues with their power steering? Mine suddenly feels oddly light and vague today and I can't pin down why. I thought I detected a slight humming when turning right at low speed.

Does a failing power steering pump seem most likely?

EDIT: My power steering fluid is ever so slightly below the low mark. I'd be surprised if it could make that much difference, but I'll top it up and see...

Edited by MajorMantra on Saturday 27th April 15:14
Sorry, quoting myself... Reading around it seems possible it could be the steering rack rather than the pump. Anyone got any pointers on making a definitive diagnosis?
No experience re: power steering on the bmw, but I did have asymmetric steering on my RX-8 (assisted more one way than the other) – that’s an electric rack and was to do with torque sensor on mine, but often it’s the wiring loom corroding/earth points. Doubt the helps, but it’s a bit more info to throw in the puzzle!

gizlaroc said:
bodhi said:
It does make me laugh on other threads when I see people suggest the N52 is "gutless" - maybe it's as mine only has a 1 Series to cart around, but as long as you have 2000 rpm on the clock (lower in 2nd/3rd and even 4th), put your foot down and it just picks up. Going from 40 to just below 3 figures in 3rd never ceases to amuse smile
N52 is far from gutless, it is the engine that I found myself saying I now get what people mean when they say "It just wants to rev!".
It is so eager to get up into the higher rpm range.


I think we might have a generation of people who have never really known anything but forced induction engines?

The joy of NA is instant throttle (fly by wire has killed this a little) and the fact it is so linear, one mans gutless in low revs is super smooth when cruising around.
I concur. My other car is an RX-8, that makes the 330i feel torquey, they both love to rev! To be honest, on a twisty A road or a faster B road, if you keep the revs above 4.5k the car is so agile (and it feels like a big lump compared to the rex), it’s so controllable/adjustable and the pace it can manage whilst being still quite composed (birds suspension helps I expect) still impresses me. I can pick any lane at my local roundabout and know I’ll get away quick enough at the traffic light GP I can go off at any exit without cutting anyone up, a 320d tried to outdrag me up the new Newtown bypass the other day and it just disappeared into the background!! Still impressed by mine.

As an aside, I’m sitting at 53.5mph average speed since the battery was last disconnected back in November about 6k miles ago – this car is ace!

stevesuk said:
Ours is still consuming almost as much oil, even after having all visible leaks addressed (filter housing, valve cover gasket etc.).

I reckon we're using 1 Litre every 2,000 to 3,000 miles - which I know is within tolerance (according to BMW), but I'm used to having cars that don't require a top-up at all between services.

It's weird - the exhaust tips are clean and there's no sign of oil in the engine bay, so I'm confused as to where it goes smile

Past caring now... buying a 4L container of Castrol once per year is now just part of the running costs, and it doesn't seem to be doing the car any harm.
Re: Oil, I think I put about 1 to 1.5 litres in every 6k miles (when I change my oil). I have a leaking sump though, (and a new sump gasket and bolts…but not fitted yet!). I did my oil filter housing in the last 6 months – that had literally just started leaking though…no other visible leaks and nothing obvious at the tailpipes – that’s pretty good for nearly 212k miles I guess.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Tuesday 14th May 2019
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I drive some modern stuff from time to time, yes they're quite impressive from an entirely paper exercise. What I think what the E9x 6pots do is nail that sweet spot between actual involvement and easy cruising/comfort, but that's quite subjective and personal. All the torque low down with boosted power delivery leaves me a bit cold - it can be amusing for mundane driving and the odd dual carriageway pull/traffic light gp - but actually making progress on some nicer roads or even late evening dual carriageway high speed cruising, the N52 is perfect.

Don't get me wrong, I'd love a ZF8 in traffic queue driving - but I don't do that sort of driving as a rule.

0-60's...I really don't care. How many people actually use that bit of the performance? Admittedly I do use the empty left hand lane on a roundabout to turn right when the others are queuing because I know I can get away before anyone else has left the line - have you seen how slow a modern day ecobox is, and the kids with the A45 AMG etc. are looking at their mobile at the lights so don't take off until a whole second after you've left the lights anyway!

Can't see me changing anytime soon - but that's just me and my set of circumstances, everyone will be slightly different.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 17th May 2019
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Sufyaan said:
Have a quick question for you guys. It's got a slight leak near the oil filter housing, seems like the housing gasket... one of two, or both. Is it best to replace with dealer parts or will gaskets from another source suffice?
Dealer parts weren't too dear when I did mine, something like £15 to £20/ea. Not sure who OE are for these, Eirling? Have seen them for sale on autodoc etc. for about half that.
Top tip, disconnect the battery so the waterpump doesn’t start pumping the coolant round after you’ve done a partial drain and then pump the rest of the coolant out when you’re pipes are disconnected and you’re not expecting it!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 17th May 2019
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Sufyaan said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
Might seem like an odd question this from someone who's owned their car 7 years - should the passenger door mirror tilt on reverse on all models?

Mine doesn't, but I don't have electric folding mirrors. Been Googling today to see if it can be coded and after reading a few threads I'm now wondering whether it should be doing it anyway!
Mine only tilts if I have the mirror selector switch to the right. I have the folding mirrors though. If you haven't already tried, reverse with the switch to the right and see if that helps.
Yup - that's the correct behaviour. If you still have the manual, there's a page in the book about it. I don't know if it was an option though...

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 21st June 2019
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I'd also get your engine mounts done whilst the subframe is dropped (as it;s the only way to get at them).

A grand to do that lot sounds pretty good value tbh, I've done oil filter housing, and the water pump on mine and have a set of engine mounts, sump gasket and sump bolts ready and waiting for when I get a chance. Having paid for just the parts you're quite far towards a grand and that's probably a days worth of labour whilst that's up in the air.

It's these things that make the difference though.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Wednesday 3rd July 2019
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chunkytfg said:
gizlaroc said:
Make sure you don't have any cheap ciggy lighter chargers plugged in, for phones, nav, dash cams etc.
They ruin radio reception.

Looks great mate BTW.
Ahh really? Never had a problem in my other cars with this but I will unplug it and see what happens.
Also check the earth straps on the boot - they often break and radio reception is poor and becomes non existent if the heated screen is switched on. I expect cheap ciggy lighters etc. exacerbate the poor earth problem.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 12th July 2019
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NikB said:
I've noticed then after switching the engine off there is an alternating buzzing noise from under the bonnet for a few minutes.

It may be coincidental to the recall, or maybe related to the hot weather. Any ideas what this could be?
It may be coincidental. Does the 300d have an electric water pump? My 330i had this behaviour when I got it, then after I changed the water pump (preventative maintenance), the buzzing went away.

See if you can trace where the sound comes from, those cheap mechanic stethoscope things are helpful for this type of thing.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Monday 5th August 2019
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g3org3y said:
helix402 said:
Sorry, I missed that! This may be some help,

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19...


I haven’t had to fix this problem before. The N52 is a pretty reliable engine.
Thanks for the link, will check it out.

As I mentioned earlier, once the idle has settled, the car behaves (to my ignorant self) fine. No drop in power, revs through with no issues.

Could something that was changed during the above remedial work have inadvertently resulted in the issue?

Yes, I heard the N52 was the engine to go for (versus the later N53). But so far my experience of it in both this E91 and my Z4 give me the impression it's a bag 'o niggly ste compared to my old M52 or M50.
I had a lumpy idle on my N52 a while back. After the simpler things, the more complex ones it could have been and I did (coz I had to change the valve cover gasket anyway, so this was 5 minutes extra work to change, but admittedly a pricey sensor - but apparently they do go wrong and get oil contaminated.) That's the e shaft sensor which is in the valve cover, at the front. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69...

What mine actually turned out to be was the large DISA valve, the butterfly vane had exploded and was sitting in my inlet valves. Engine didn't injest anything fortunately and I fished all the bits out of the intake manifold. The replacement part had been redesigned by BMW with a metal shaft, so all good now. But this caused a lumpy idle, without anything else particularly obvious and no codes initially.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Monday 5th August 2019
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
Thanks for the info. It now seems to have a valve cover gasket leak, so perhaps an opportunity to get that looked as as well.

Was your lumpy idle all the time?
I would say intermittent, and more like the odd grumble/hiccup/stutter. People who don't know about cars told me I was imagining it, but I very much wasn't and was very glad that I had kept looking when I found out what it was!

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Tuesday 13th August 2019
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Re: coils.
I got the Bosch ones on mine - although looking at realoem, the current OE is Delphi. I believe Bosch were OE back in the day. I was on 186k miles when I developed a misfire, pulled them out and they were original (and appeared to be Bosch).

You can do the old coil swap between cylinders to confirm it's the coil that's causing this misfire. Yes I believe cylinder number 1 is at the front.

Re: vanos solenoids. You can trigger them by putting a few volts across the pins. My solenoid that would occasionally cause a code even after I cleaned it, was very slightly laggy compared to the other which wasn't causing errors.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Wednesday 14th August 2019
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Swervin_Mervin said:
ferrisbueller said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
Yeah balls to that!

Like I say, I've changed plugs umpteen times in the past. It's one of the few jobs I just hate doing, especially on a daily driver.
I'm another who lets someone else change plugs. The part hour charge for them to take the risk is easily justifiable in my mind.
Exactly this. If it wasn't needed every day, then I'd do it. But the risk if goes wrong at all is far outweighed by the time charge for someone else to do it. And if it goes wrong they'll have far more options at their disposal to fix it than I would.

As for the leak - I've taken a look back through the recent bills as I knew we were chasing a potential leak. It was sump gasket I've had done (I thought I'd also had oil filter housing done but seemingly not). Looks like it might have been the rocker cover gasket all along. And it looks like a fiddly sod of a job as well!

Edited by Swervin_Mervin on Wednesday 14th August 16:25
Yes it's quite fiddly - but not too bad. Main issue is getting the valve cover actually out as it's quite tight against the firewall. Sump gasket is more fiddly thought for driveway mechanise as you have to either lift the engine or drop the front subframe and I haven't got round to that yet...! Besides, the small leak just drips onto the undertray and doesn't cover the bay in oil. Oil contaminating the plugs/coils may have caused the misfire? I changed all six of my coils as I figured if one was going, the others were gonna follow suit (and 186k miles wasn't bad innings). If you were brave enough to get the plugs out (I had no issues with mine), you could see if there's any fouling on the plugs.


065 (16-03-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Tuesday 27th August 2019
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2 GKC said:
Seems to be one thing after another with mine at the moment. Alternator, remote locking, a stink of petrol and now Idrive screen won’t turn on. Is the latter likely to be an expensive fix?
All fairly common things.

Petrol stink will be the breather pipe rubbing as it goes through the arch. It's £50ish for a replacement bit of pipe, but it's a drop the tank jobby to replace it (some people so they managed without doing that, I have no idea how having done the job myself). If you only fill up to 3/4 of a tank, you'll be fine!

Remote locking is most commonly the diversity unit which is under the spoiler - they get water ingress and fail. Preventative maintenance is to seal them up better before the water has a chance to get in. Going rate was about £100 for a second hand one. I checked mine, and turns out someone in the past had already sealed mine up!
That said - all the electrical things may stem from the alternator...

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
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ladderino said:
For E9x gen, this is the cable I have and used on my E91 -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-Inpa-Ediabas-Interf...
I have very similar from this seller and it's been good to me.

Currently just used it to diagnose things, using German INPA and google translate. I intend to put a bit of time towards sorting out ISTA and doing a small few bits of coding (I have a MULF2 HI-SVS to swap out so I have USB audio and bluetooth as opposed to just bluetooth, switch off the seatbelt bing (although it's not that annoying compared to most modern cars I go in))) - oil temperature on the cluster instead of mpg (have some 335i clocks sitting here I may swap across at some point)...

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Wednesday 2nd October 2019
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Copious googling on the subject!

I think I've got an installation of "Mike's easy bmw tools" which I did because it was easy and quick, I needed software in a rush to do easy diag and already had the cable.

There's a whole "coding" section on the e90post forum which has various links and explanations.

A bit of time investment is required if you want to go that route...but I expect you'll be better skilled for it.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Thursday 3rd October 2019
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I'm very impressed with my Vredstein ultrac vorti's.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Friday 11th October 2019
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Swervin_Mervin said:
Aaaand the misfire is back. Just now on a quick trip up the road. Pulled over and as I tried to turn the PAS also went and then the dash lit up like it was an early Xmas. tt.

I suspect it's the potential oil leak issue - prime suspect rocker cover gasket. Haven't had chance to check it but suspect it's leaked enough to now be causing issues again. Not sure why PAS cut out, but maybe required more load than the misfiring engine could deliver, and hence cut out? Is it clutched the PAS? Just trying to think if the car is able to cut the pump in such circumstances
The PAS thing and the dash would lead me to think you should be investigating electrical gremlins too. I know you've got Carly - does that give you any codes?

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Tuesday 29th October 2019
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Great new with the A/C compressor Jake.

Swevin - you had the fuse box power cable recall done? If it's when doing sharp turns - i the P/S motor putting so much load on the electrics something is then tripping/glitching out...? This is where watching voltage and load etc.live feeds when driving would be worthwhile - especially if you can invoke the behaviour.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
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Oh no, gutted Swervin. Report back on what you find out, and I'm gonna check all my drainage channels are clear! I am quite festidious removing leaves from the scuttle drain thingies...

It'll be interesting to hear if that sorts all your issues you've been having recently and intermittently over time. I'd also check the diversity unit under your spoiler - that's another common wet circuit board issue that stops your central locking and stuff working.

zippyonline

Original Poster:

354 posts

169 months

Saturday 2nd November 2019
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Traffic cop complemented me on how good the car is and how well they drive at speed (he was in an F31 330d auto). Unfortunately it was due to being pulled over for "excess speed on dual carriageway" (it was dark and all I saw was a set of bmw headlights catch me up...).
I passed the attitude test and the speed written down on the traffic offence report was adjusted such that I am eligible for a speed awareness course, it went about as well as it could have possibly done given the circumstances.