Celica GT4 ST205's (Late 90's models) - Any problems?

[Adaw]

Hi, I'm looking to buy a Celica of the GT4 ST205 variety and was wondering if there are any common faults with them and if the parts were excessively expensive, I'm not bothered if it's an import or not, but is there any difference too? Also I think I'm right in understanding that they share alot of similarities mechanically with MR2's, is this true?

Thank you in advance, any information is greatly appreciated!

[TotalControl]

Engine is the same as MR2 Turbo - 3SGTE.
Only thing a lot of owners say to look for is the SuperStrut Suspension. These apparently need changing every 60-80k miles. I'm not aware of any ST205's that are on normal McPherson setups. The UK spec ones were all WRC IIRC. I may be corrected shortly though.

Try the GT4 owners club for more info alongside here. Lovely cars, one of my all time fave's. Good luck with the purchase.

[eybic]

I have a 1994 WRC and have owned it for nearly 6 years, fantastic cars.

Things to look out for are:

Any knocking from front suspension (about £1000 to sort)

Clutches can be expensive to replace (at least £800)

Ensure the cambelt has been replaced (about £150)

The UK cars dont have climate control, have heated mirrors but not folding ones. Jap ones have climate control and foldy mirrors. apart from that they are pretty much the same. There was a spec change in 1996 with different rear lights, interior and spoiler.

There were 2500 WRC's made with some extra engine bits like anti-lag, water injection and a spray bar for the chargecooler radiator (none of which can be activated to give any decent benefit for worthwhile money) Not all uk's are WRC's

The only mechanicaly similarities to an MR2 is the engine. It's the same one, rest of the car is different.

Mine has 350 bhp and 320 torque and leaves a LOT of cars standing, if you need any more info, let me know.
Search youtube for "st205 screamer" for in car (on roof more like) footage of mine

Edited by eybic on Thursday 25th February 09:02

[Marf]

eybic said:

Mine has 350 bhp and 320 torque and leaves a LOT of cars standing,

What mods have you made Nathan?

[eybic]

I've got a TD06 20g, evo fmic, screamer pipe, 2.75" exhaust, decat, 800cc injectors, uprated fuel pump and a Power FC, all the suspension has been uprated as well with poly bushes all round, uprated shocks, springs and rear anti roll bar.

[Marf]

Nice, on a stock engine?

What boost are you running? Any dyno sheets?

Not doubting just a fellow 3S owner always hungry for info about other peoples setups

[eybic]

Marf said:

Nice, on a stock engine?

What boost are you running? Any dyno sheets?

Not doubting just a fellow 3S owner always hungry for info about other peoples setups

Yep stock internals, I'm at about the limit of the stock internals now so any more power and really I'd need to forge it which I dont want to do. the exact power figure was 356bhp and that was @ 1.25 BAR

It was mapped by Ryan @ 2BAR tuning.

[Marf]

Sounds good

[Adaw]

Thank you very much, I think I might of already seen you on youtube already! Fortunately I work in a garage, so I can acquire parts with trade discount hopefully and I see quite a few for sale, although some advertise deceivingly boasting 2.0L when they are only 1.8L's.

[gazchap]

As has been said, the SuperStrut suspension is arguably the most common failure point. They wear out at around 60K miles (although not always, some owners report going for nearly 100K before they needed changing).

The parts for the SS are about £75 each for the figure8 camber control links, around £250 each for the lower arms and then labour charges. Crush tubes are nice and cheap, around £10 each I think.

Another common failure is the rear differential mount. This is around £100 to buy new and if you have the tools and knowhow can be changed yourself in an hour or so.

Apart from that, there's not really much to go wrong. The only thing I would say is to be careful - there are a lot of sheds out there that have been poorly looked after. I would suggest joining the GT4OC (www.gt4oc.net) and browsing on there, members' cars frequently come up for sale and you can almost always guarantee that it'll have been well looked after.

In terms of mods, it's a very moddable car if you have the money but again make sure you buy a car that's been modded properly if you're going to go down that route. Either buy a standard car or get one that's been well looked after.

Be aware that if you get a Jap import you WILL need to run it on super unleaded (preferably 99RON+, so Shell V-Power or that BP 102RON stuff) or you increase the chances of detonation and causing engine damage.

Service the car regularly (oil changes every 3,000 miles are advised, with a high quality oil like Silkolene Pro-S or Millers) and it should last a long time to come.

[bint]

Mr E is lurking around here somewhere, he's had an ST205 for several years (sold in October due to neglect.....ETA he says "lack of use" - it was driven for about 150 miles in 12 months, was mint and lived in the garage) and has some pointers here;

http://www.jamesneale.com/GT4/GT4.html

[rb5230]

when modded they can be great cars but a bit understeery as standard. a friend had one with in car adjustable tein coilovers which made it very interesting and meth injection etc, it was brilliant.

got fensport to do the figure 8`s which apparently were worn out which came to more than £1500 though.

[emicen]

rb5230 said:

when modded they can be great cars but a bit understeery as standard. a friend had one with in car adjustable tein coilovers which made it very interesting and meth injection etc, it was brilliant.

got fensport to do the figure 8`s which apparently were worn out which came to more than £1500 though.

Mine cost me £600 to replace both sides including having a garage do it. Parts from Whifbitz, local garage fitted them.

TCB are apparently very cheap for these parts just now.

Picking up on another price mentioned, minimum of £800 for a clutch. It cost me £250 to have mine fitted by a garage and £450 for an all signing, all dancing 6 puck clutch from the states. Replacing it with a standard spec clutch or mildly uprated one would be more like £500 all in.

All UK cars were not WRC spec, it was luck of the draw when you bought one whether you got a WRC or not.

Rear diff mounts do indeed go and whilst I have an uprated aluminium solid mount, if time came round again, I most certainly wouldnt fit one to another road car. The NVH consequences are not pleasant for a daily driven car.

The car's natural understeer is best countered with a whiteline ARB at the back. There are more suspension options available now and prices have come down a bit but the super strut does carry a bit of extra novelty-tax. It is possible to de-superstrut them though.

[Mr E]

I rebuilt the suspension from the topmounts down for less than £1500 quid.

Stage one organic clutch was about 400 quid (and a lot of swearing by the poor mechanic). It is not a nice job.

Certainly a whiteline rear ARB sorted the understeer.

[Wrc gt4 st205]

Question .. Ive got a 95 GT4 st205 and the engine was in its last legs so i swapped it out an ordered a new one however its the WRC addition with water inject an launch control which i was happy to receive heres my question am i gonna run into trouble with wiring or anything else and how can i find the year on this engine

[Wrc gt4 st205]

Question .. Ive got a 95 GT4 st205 and the engine was in its last legs so i swapped it out an ordered a new one however its the WRC addition with water inject an launch control which i was happy to receive heres my question am i gonna run into trouble with wiring or anything else and how can i find the year on this engine

[mikey P 500]

All the wrc models were made in 94.

[mikey P 500]

All the wrc models were made in 94.