Mk1 MR2 - Servicing??
Discussion
Hey guys
As youve probably read, ive just bought a Mk1 MR2 (N/A) and i quite fancy getting the oil changed and getting the coolant replaced, just to be on the safe side. How complicated are these two procedures? I know on a normal car (like a Golf etc) you just remove the sump plug, let the oil drain out, replace the filter and then refill with oil. Is it this simple with the MR2? are the filter and sump plug easily accessible?
Also, whats the procedure for changing the coolant etc?
Any help appreciated
Cheers guys
Dave
As youve probably read, ive just bought a Mk1 MR2 (N/A) and i quite fancy getting the oil changed and getting the coolant replaced, just to be on the safe side. How complicated are these two procedures? I know on a normal car (like a Golf etc) you just remove the sump plug, let the oil drain out, replace the filter and then refill with oil. Is it this simple with the MR2? are the filter and sump plug easily accessible?
Also, whats the procedure for changing the coolant etc?
Any help appreciated
Cheers guys
Dave
Oil and filter is very easy, but the filter is a tad awkward to get to on the front of the engine.
Draining the coolant isn't hard (removing the lower radiator hose will do it) but bleeding it is a bit of a bind. There are 3 (IIRC) bleed points, one on top of the gearbox housing next to the engine, one at the top nearside of the radiator and one just in front of the bulkhead next to the brake fluid reservoir. You should find 2 lengths of plastic tube coiled up behind the plastic cover at the back of the front "boot". These are meant to go on the 2 front bleed points tied up with a piece of string from the bonnet. This allows you to open the bleed taps without most of the coolant pishing out. Once these are in place refill the coolant with the front 2 taps open and fluid should rise up a foot or so in the tubes. Briefly open the bleed tap on the gearbox (?on the temp sensor housing) til fluid flows out. Top up, close off the bleed taps, and jobs a good'un.
A Toyota mechanic suggested putting it nose up on a slope and revving the t1ts off it before opening the bleed taps.
The first method seems to work ok
Draining the coolant isn't hard (removing the lower radiator hose will do it) but bleeding it is a bit of a bind. There are 3 (IIRC) bleed points, one on top of the gearbox housing next to the engine, one at the top nearside of the radiator and one just in front of the bulkhead next to the brake fluid reservoir. You should find 2 lengths of plastic tube coiled up behind the plastic cover at the back of the front "boot". These are meant to go on the 2 front bleed points tied up with a piece of string from the bonnet. This allows you to open the bleed taps without most of the coolant pishing out. Once these are in place refill the coolant with the front 2 taps open and fluid should rise up a foot or so in the tubes. Briefly open the bleed tap on the gearbox (?on the temp sensor housing) til fluid flows out. Top up, close off the bleed taps, and jobs a good'un.
A Toyota mechanic suggested putting it nose up on a slope and revving the t1ts off it before opening the bleed taps.
The first method seems to work ok
Don't trust the smurfs at your local garage to get to coolant bleeding right - I picked mine up once and it had an airlock causing comedy idle speed switching from 1k to 2.5k every couple of seconds during warm-up.
Also make sure you use the correct Toyota coolant - they are very picky about this so I'm assuming that they've used odd materials somewhere that need the special stuff.
Also make sure you use the correct Toyota coolant - they are very picky about this so I'm assuming that they've used odd materials somewhere that need the special stuff.
Mad Dave said: Apparently ForLife has something in it that prevents gasket failure. Ive seen it for sale on Fensport.co.uk for £30ish - not all that much?
Who's told you that? i can safely say that they are wrong, if you do a search of the IMOC forum you'll see what people who actually own the cars say
HTH
Umar
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