mr2 diagnostics

[dern]

Are there any on-board diagnostics on the mr2 turbo (1992, j-reg) to show any problems with sensors and so on? If there are how do you activate it and what do the code mean?

Info or links greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mark

[umar b]

You will have a diagnostics plug in the engine bay, there is a way of taking a reading from it, but can not remember how

Also, i asked a similer question about this on the IMOC forum, check it here

Look at the link that 'hector au' has.

HTH

Umar

[Mr E]

Yeah. You can connect a paper clip accross the terminals of the 3S-GTE and the number of flashes will indicate error codes I think.....

www.btinternet.com/~netsurf/mr2t/mr2tfaq.html#Engine_ECU_Codes

should help.

[umar b]

Yep, thats the way to do it!

[note to self: must dump useless memories out of brain and replace with usefull stuff ]

[Mr E]

:lol:

Only reason I know is it's similar on a 3rd gen 3S-GTE, which sits under my bonnet......

And it saves money at toyota.

Know any good Turbo-Toyota specialists. Getting fed up of Mr-Ts prices...

[dern]

Drove my first mr2 turbo tonight, liked it a lot

I must admit I thought it wasn't as quick as I had expected. Given a exhaust, cat pipe, filter and unichip (which tonight's car didn't have) what sort of power should I expect and would the unichip up the power significantly over a standard car?

They handle very well indeed though, nice cars.

Thanks,

Mark

[Mr E]

You can boost an 2nd Gen 3S-GTE to around 300bhp on stock internals without too many issues. A de-cat will help the turbo spin up faster and a fuel cut defented will enable you to run more boost on the stock turbo. Biggest issue you're likely to have is heat I'm afraid.

Cooling can be a bit marginial when you turn up the wick....

[dern]

Mr E said: You can boost an 2nd Gen 3S-GTE to around 300bhp on stock internals without too many issues. A de-cat will help the turbo spin up faster and a fuel cut defented will enable you to run more boost on the stock turbo.

The route I'd planned to go with was exhaust, cat by-pass pipe, air filter and the unichip which seems to be the best way to get a tailored map. Will this get me near the 300bhp? Does the unichip perform the fuel cut defender mod as well?

Biggest issue you're likely to have is heat I'm afraid.

Cooling can be a bit marginial when you turn up the wick....

Are there any accepted approaches to increasing the cooling of the motor?

Thanks for the info,

Mark

[Mr E]

I don't know about the exhaust on the MR2 (I'm a GT-Four man). The flow will be constricted by the turbo, so spending £££ on an exhaust would seem unwise. Suspect more bang for buck elsewhere. By all means stick a decent pipe on when it's up for replacement, but I wouldn't expect massive gains.

Suspect the chip will act as a FCD, but don't know about that particular model.....

Cooling. Good question. Drive faster? Seriously, a mate is currently fiddling with an MR2 Turbo (a '91) and he's go to about 270-280 bhp. Cooling is now the issue.

Water spray is possible and not that expensive.....

[dern]

Water spray is possible and not that expensive.....

Are we talking about engine temperature or inlet air temperature? I understand why spraying water in the inlet manifold would reduce the temp of the air going into the engine and potentially produce more power but how would it help with reducing engine temperature?

Thanks,

Mark

[Mr E]

dern said:

Water spray is possible and not that expensive.....

Are we talking about engine temperature or inlet air temperature? I understand why spraying water in the inlet manifold would reduce the temp of the air going into the engine and potentially produce more power but how would it help with reducing engine temperature?

Thanks,

Mark

Good question. I don't think it will much, but it will reduce the effect of heat soak.......

www.fensport.co.uk/partsfiles/sw20tuning.htm

Kits at the bottom.

More engine vents might help.....

www.mrtwo.net/mr2modproject/mod/enginevents/enginevents.htm



Edit to say I apologise for my crap knowledge of the MR2 cooling system. It's not a problem I have - with a thermostat jammed wide open the temperature gauge is on the bottom peg at 70 mph.

I replaced the thermostat pretty damn quick.


>> Edited by Mr E on Tuesday 3rd June 17:04

[neilr]

rev1 & 2 3sgte's realistic top end for bhp is 290-300 on stock turbo and internals, the CT26 becomes a main restricting factor after this.

I had a rev2 engine (1993, just before the more powerful engine was introduced) and had it running 15psi, you need to bypass fuel cutoff for that though (i used a zener diode), as the stock motor will cut fuel delivery at about 12.5-12.9psi (about that anyway, its been a while!)

however, the extra psi really makes a difference and it did have MUCH more go, only other changes i made were a grade cooler plugs to help guard against detonation. According to Toymotot the rev 1 & 2 safe boost limit is 17psi. the later cars have a ct20 and can be wound up much ,much more.

FWIW the stock exhaust isnt that bad, and just having it de-catted will see you good gains and let it pull much harder right through the rev range.

Great cars though.

[Mr E]

neilr said: the later cars have a ct20 and can be wound up much ,much more.

I know. Stop tempting me......

[Mr E]

Lottery win, and yes.

Otherwise she's staying pretty much as toyota intended...

[deltaf]

Ive tried all the usual fuel cut measures such as the zener set to 4.5volts to fool the ecu.
The absolute simplest way to fool the ecu is to simply disconnect the pressure pipe to the "map" sensor and plug it.
On the 3SGTE this isnt actually used to tell the engine manifold absolute pressure, not for fuelling anyway, it initiates fuel cut in the ecu when the pressure gets to anything over 7psi.
Before anyone decides to "get medieval" on my ass, ive been running mine at 12 psi for over a year in this condition.
Plugs are in fine condition, no detonation, no "other" problems.
The "map" sensor as used on the 3SGTE simply tells the ecu what manifold pressure is occurring to initiate fuel cut and also operates the standard toyota boost gauge(useless).
So, why spend money on an FCD, when you can have 12psi for free?
Please feel free to argue. lol.

PS. The 3SGTE does NOT work on the speed/density method for its calculations, hence the air flow meter, hence my success in removing the fuel cut in this way.

PPS the onboard diagnostics can be checked by connecting a jumper wire across terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic connector. Dont do this while ignition on or engine running.
Once connected, turn on ignition and count the flashes, A steady on/off indicates NO fault recorded.


>> Edited by deltaf on Friday 27th June 10:58

[Mr2Mike]

deltaf said:

PS. The 3SGTE does NOT work on the speed/density method for its calculations, hence the air flow meter, hence my success in removing the fuel cut in this way.

Rev3+ does use speed density.