rx 7 track day car
Discussion
Hi
Any of you guys use a rx 7 fd for track days or racing ?
I have just baught one and would like to know what sort of reliable hp can be had for the track.My car has the single turbo mod (gredy t67) huge intercooler,oil coolers radiator ect its running 316 @ wheels @.95 boost.
went to cadwell park last week and ran superb, no over heating problems at all apart from the fried brakes?(APs on the way).Are these engines up to the hard thrashing like trackdays give ect?.
Regards
Craig
Any of you guys use a rx 7 fd for track days or racing ?
I have just baught one and would like to know what sort of reliable hp can be had for the track.My car has the single turbo mod (gredy t67) huge intercooler,oil coolers radiator ect its running 316 @ wheels @.95 boost.
went to cadwell park last week and ran superb, no over heating problems at all apart from the fried brakes?(APs on the way).Are these engines up to the hard thrashing like trackdays give ect?.
Regards
Craig
A few judicious mods and you'll have a great track-day car. A few more and a competetive race car - if you can find a class that'll allow a very competetiv rotary enging in!
First place sto start is with decent telemetry - gauges for oil and water temps as a minimum (the stock water temp one sucks). Ideally EGT, 'box and diff temp sensors and logging too.
This will give you a decent idea where to focus your attentions and not waste money on upgrading things that don't need it.
If you can stretch to it get a wideband and readout installed, helps you avoid running lean at times!
I've never had break fade and I'm running uprated dicks and pads at the front but not uprated callipers. 70 miles round brands in 32 hours and not even the slightest hint of sponginess. I'm using Black-diamond grooved fronts with Hawk HT-10 pads (dusty but awesome). Better disks would improve things further but the current setup is easily capable of locking the wheels at any speed. Braided lines all round (including the clutch line) will help feel a huge amount.
First place sto start is with decent telemetry - gauges for oil and water temps as a minimum (the stock water temp one sucks). Ideally EGT, 'box and diff temp sensors and logging too.
This will give you a decent idea where to focus your attentions and not waste money on upgrading things that don't need it.
If you can stretch to it get a wideband and readout installed, helps you avoid running lean at times!
I've never had break fade and I'm running uprated dicks and pads at the front but not uprated callipers. 70 miles round brands in 32 hours and not even the slightest hint of sponginess. I'm using Black-diamond grooved fronts with Hawk HT-10 pads (dusty but awesome). Better disks would improve things further but the current setup is easily capable of locking the wheels at any speed. Braided lines all round (including the clutch line) will help feel a huge amount.
madazrx7 said:
iaint said:
... 70 miles round brands in 32 hours and not even the slightest hint of sponginess...
Well at an average speed of just over 2MPH I'm not surprised!
ha, quality typo.
2 hour, open pit lane. 70 miles in that time including rest periods and a couple of red flags from people who liked the gravel traps!
Was _very_ wet though so not a full test. 5 laps of silverstone certainly didn't phase them at all...
cwin said:
Ian
wtf is a wideband?
The car has a set of Greddy fuel presure,oil/water temp gauges with memory fitted.
I've just picked it up from wgt auto developements tonight and it pulls like a train,
346bhp@wheels @.95 boost.
wtf is a wideband?
The car has a set of Greddy fuel presure,oil/water temp gauges with memory fitted.
I've just picked it up from wgt auto developements tonight and it pulls like a train,
346bhp@wheels @.95 boost.
Wideband lamda sensor. Measures the 'richness' of the fuel mixture via the exhaust gasses. Narrow band doesn't give the accuracy needed. It'll give you useful/critical information on your state of tune and, while running the car, a little warning of impending doom!
_Batty_ said:
ce--rist, lookin @ FD's its near impossible to find a decent rebuilt standard car.
shame really.
shame really.
Nah it's not
Have a chat with Carl Hayward - link on MRC ad section. He'll likely have one available - he's one of the most respected rotary rebuilders around and his work (and customer service) is great.
Anyway, who wants rebuilt standard? Get a modded one with small-single turbo. Run 0.8 bar on a T04E/Z and have instant power and an unstressed 300rwhp...
iaint said:
_Batty_ said:
ce--rist, lookin @ FD's its near impossible to find a decent rebuilt standard car.
shame really.
shame really.
Nah it's not
Have a chat with Carl Hayward - link on MRC ad section. He'll likely have one available - he's one of the most respected rotary rebuilders around and his work (and customer service) is great.
Anyway, who wants rebuilt standard? Get a modded one with small-single turbo. Run 0.8 bar on a T04E/Z and have instant power and an unstressed 300rwhp...
may be worth a call then.... (if i was looking of course)
cwin said:
does the apexi power fc not give you all the info you need like knock readings ect?
It give you lots of readings. Some are more useful than others.
knock, for example, in notoriously unreliable - you could have high readings from a loose engine mount, broken sensor, resonant exhaust or det. By the time you see a reading under load o that's caused by det you've likely lost the engine...
On the PFC you can only really monitor 4 items andsee them easily. 2 and see them at a glance on track. It doesn't display lamda for exemple.
EGT is good to monitor and repositioning the air-temp sensor is useful as the stock sensor heat-soaks like a biatch and will retard timing siginificantly!
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