Discussion
Have just bought a silver '03 CTR, and pick it up on Friday...
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
Animal said:
Have just bought a silver '03 CTR, and pick it up on Friday...
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
Congrats on the purchase
1. Service it yourself if you know how and/or have no warranty.
2. I'd always plumb for Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3's. Good at everything and they look cool.
3. Alot depends on how hard you drive it of course, and whether you keep it out of VTEC, shouldn't eat tyres if you drive it properly.
4. Budget for oil changes. I'd always do a oil and filter change every 4500 miles in something that revs to 9000rpm. Also budget for modifications, once you do one you'll want to do more i'm sure.
5. I'd expect 35mpg for normal driving, with high 30's low 40' on the motorway and mid 20's for ragging it.
WildCards said:
Animal said:
Have just bought a silver '03 CTR, and pick it up on Friday...
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
What sort of running costs can I expect? Servicing seems reasonable, assume its going to devour tyres (esp. fronts - which ones should I go for at replacement time?) and hope to get around 28mpg, but what else should I budget for and how often? I'm only going to be doing average miles, but it's a real mix of country lanes (Dunstable to Chesham through Ashridge, if anyone knows it) and motorways, so nothing out of the ordinary.
Any thoughts or tips?
Congrats on the purchase
1. Service it yourself if you know how and/or have no warranty.
2. I'd always plumb for Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3's. Good at everything and they look cool.
3. Alot depends on how hard you drive it of course, and whether you keep it out of VTEC, shouldn't eat tyres if you drive it properly.
4. Budget for oil changes. I'd always do a oil and filter change every 4500 miles in something that revs to 9000rpm. Also budget for modifications, once you do one you'll want to do more i'm sure.
5. I'd expect 35mpg for normal driving, with high 30's low 40' on the motorway and mid 20's for ragging it.
1) Get it serviced at a main dealer or specialist...the resale will really suffer otherwise, so it won't save you any money (but may give you peace of mind...up to you). Look on the CTR or other Honda forums for dealer ratings (S2ki has a good one).
2) Agreed on GSD3's...but they're not very hard wearing. Alternatives (if in right size) are Toyo T1-R's or ContiSports (more expensive but should last longer).
3) Absolutely. A sensitive right foot at low speeds will aid tyre-life no end...no LSD and 197bhp means if you're rough you will eat tyres.
4) Oil every 4,500 not a bad idea. filter not essential but usually good if you're changing the oil. Big costs will be insurance and tyres. If you're a hard driver or do any trackdays change brake fluid every year as well.
4a) Mods? Entirely up to you. Live with it for a bit as stock, then see what you don't like and if it's cost-effective to change. But bear in mind mods are always dead money on the used-car market.
5) 35mpg?!? No chance...once you've got used to the performance you'll be lucky to top 30mpg on a tank with your route. You're not buying it for it's economy though.
Honda forums (hondarevolutions and the CTR OC) are a good place for general advice, esp on mods and typical faults.
Enjoy!
just selling my ctr for a sti, have an induction kit that makes it sound great, only sounds loud above vtec and helps it breath a bit better. was going to ebay it at some stage. I bought castrol RS for the car and gave it to the dealer to put in my car, they charge the same for their own crap oil as you pay if you buy good stuff in halfrauds.
WildCards said:
1. Service it yourself if you know how and/or have no warranty.
Worst advice i've ever seen on these forums...
its only 3 years old - DO NOT service yourself - if its under warranty, go to a main dealer, if not, either that or a good indy..
But make sure you get a stamp in the book for every service, otherwise you'll struggle to sell the car if you cant show its been maintained properly.
Other than that, enjoy
fidgits said:
WildCards said:
1. Service it yourself if you know how and/or have no warranty.
Worst advice i've ever seen on these forums...
its only 3 years old - DO NOT service yourself - if its under warranty, go to a main dealer, if not, either that or a good indy..
But make sure you get a stamp in the book for every service, otherwise you'll struggle to sell the car if you cant show its been maintained properly.
Other than that, enjoy
Thanks for that Fidgit
In my opinion main dealers aren't worth a toss. They don't do the job properly, charge you the earth and leave you feeling very unwelcome. Specialist dealers are better if you trust them, but even they can be an unknown quantity if you don't. If you know how to service a car yourself you know the job gets done to a high standard and it can save you a fortune. I'd always prefer a car serviced by an enthusiast rather than a garage, shows it's been looked after IMO.
If you keep receipts, that's as good as any stamp in the book. The only way you'll struggle to sell a CTR is if it's an absolutle nail.
animal said:
Quick question - what's the best oil to use?
Personally I always use Amsoil fully synthetic TSO, but it may be a bit thin for your engine. If you give Don a ring at www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/ he'll advise which oil is best for you. Whatever brand you choose though, make sure it's fully synthetic.
Servicing at CPL racing down south and System R up north.
Service history from either of these holds more sway than main dealer in the CTR community.
Get an exhaust...transforms the driving experience...no power just a healthy noise.
Car uses oil between services so make sure you keep an eye on it specially if you bounce off of the rev limiter alot.
A basic engine with a timing chain that wants to revved all day and every day...watch out for lift off oversteer.
Service history from either of these holds more sway than main dealer in the CTR community.
Get an exhaust...transforms the driving experience...no power just a healthy noise.
Car uses oil between services so make sure you keep an eye on it specially if you bounce off of the rev limiter alot.
A basic engine with a timing chain that wants to revved all day and every day...watch out for lift off oversteer.
Potenza RE040's are okay. I only changed the rears after 25,000 miles; fronts lasted about 15,000 miles - maybe i'm a careful driver, though i like set the tyre pressures for a bit of rear-wheel sliding
Oil changes - every 6k using fully synth - that should be enough? My '52 model has been troublefree (only O2 sensor has failed). I'll miss it when i eventually replace it.N8 ORTS said:
Stick to the Bridgestone Pots. They are designed for the car! They mite be cr@p in the wet but they make up for it in the drive. As for MPG, when hammered expect anything between 20-25mpg and when on motorways you can expect as high as 35MPG. I did actually get 35mpg, ONCE.
I'd disagree - tyres are one of the most important parts of the car, and I for one wouldn't want crap tyres in the wet. I'm just about to change the S2000 tyres from Potenza S02's (stock tyre, also crap in wet) to Toyo's, specifically because they're much better in the wet. Absolute dry grip isn't everything - I far prefer wet-weather competency and progressive break-away.
beerhov said:
animal said:
Quick question - what's the best oil to use?
A fully synthetic - Im putting silkolene 5w40 in next...
Avoid Mobil-1, or any 0W - they seem to be too thin for the engines, and are accelerating wear (catastrophically, IF you believe a couple of the threads on the Honda fora!)
The CTR has to be the cheapest performance car to run that I have ever owned.
We had it from 9K to 23K miles and didn't have to change any tyres. It returned no worse than 25-27 mpg round town with 35mpg on a run and didn't miss a beat in the time we had it. No rattles at all and nothing for the dealer to do other than service it.
We sold it because we needed something bigger otherwise we would still have it.
We had it from 9K to 23K miles and didn't have to change any tyres. It returned no worse than 25-27 mpg round town with 35mpg on a run and didn't miss a beat in the time we had it. No rattles at all and nothing for the dealer to do other than service it.
We sold it because we needed something bigger otherwise we would still have it.
havoc said:
N8 ORTS said:
Stick to the Bridgestone Pots. They are designed for the car! They mite be cr@p in the wet but they make up for it in the drive. As for MPG, when hammered expect anything between 20-25mpg and when on motorways you can expect as high as 35MPG. I did actually get 35mpg, ONCE.
I'd disagree - tyres are one of the most important parts of the car, and I for one wouldn't want crap tyres in the wet. I'm just about to change the S2000 tyres from Potenza S02's (stock tyre, also crap in wet) to Toyo's, specifically because they're much better in the wet. Absolute dry grip isn't everything - I far prefer wet-weather competency and progressive break-away.
Mite have to go give the Toyos ago when the S needs some rears, won't be long now. Should be just in time for the winter. Are there any disadvantages with the Toyos?
N8 ORTS said:
Mite have to go give the Toyos ago when the S needs some rears, won't be long now. Should be just in time for the winter. Are there any disadvantages with the Toyos?
Not sure...just got them fitted this morning. www.s2ki.co.uk has a few reports on them. In summary:-
- softer sidewalls* (see below).
- wear quicker.
- much larger rain channels, so much better wet performance.
- less outright dry grip.
Oh...and make sure to get 245/45/16 rears - the S02's are very 'square' at the back, so the contact patch is more like a normal 245 tyre. Also think carefully about having S02's on the front still...may want to just change all 4.
* - takes a bit of the immediacy out of turn in, improves ride quality a little bit, makes break-away (front or rear) more progressive, not sure yet of effect on feedback, poise, etc...will let you know. Has been suggested to run at 34psi, not 32.
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