MR2 Turbo advice
Discussion
Thinking of changing my Vectra for something more intresting and cheaper.
Have had a thought about a MR2 Turbo.
Are these a reliable car to buy & run (I do about 18k miles per year.)?
What sort of things should I look for?
I am looking at spending £3-4K.
I saw a K plate on Saturday for £3k in a dealer, a bit untidy, needed some things doing on the car.
What would be the running costs of one these?
What is a good resource site to check?
Thansk In Advance
tim.
Have had a thought about a MR2 Turbo.
Are these a reliable car to buy & run (I do about 18k miles per year.)?
What sort of things should I look for?
I am looking at spending £3-4K.
I saw a K plate on Saturday for £3k in a dealer, a bit untidy, needed some things doing on the car.
What would be the running costs of one these?
What is a good resource site to check?
Thansk In Advance
tim.
If I were you I would try to stretch to a little over 4 grand and find a GOOD (there are some ropey ones) Revision 3 model (1994+) - they are getting cheaper. The Revison 1 and 2s are okay but Toyota significantly changed some key areas of the MR2 at Rev 3 stage making it a better car.
1) Turbo was upgraded to the ct20 - smaller but more efficient and maintains full boost to just under 7,000 rpm. Old one (ct26) begins to fade after about 5,500 rpm.
2) Standard boost was raised to 13psi (0.8 bar), higher than the Rev 1 and 2s.
3) No MAF sensor on Rev 3s
4) LSD as standard.
5) Revised suspension - less tail wagging and a more confidence inspiring drive, especially in the wet.
6) Revised rear lights and spoiler, larger and wider wheels as standard (I think), although these will probably have been changed.
These are some of the key changes.
Also, I think Rev 3s look better. The old rear lights look dated and the new rear spoiler is subtle and really suits the car.
I would also go for a Tintop and avoid the T-bar (seem to be more popular), as they tend to leak, rattle and aren't quite as stiff.
They're also easier to modify: decent exhaust, downpipe and filter together with a manual boost controller yield good results. Boost can be raised to about 1 bar (14.5 psi) safely with no need to for fuel cut defencer on the Rev 3.
A sorted Rev 3 should do 0-60 in around 5.5ish seconds. Top speed around 150-155mph.
Check out: www.imoc.co.uk/forums/
1) Turbo was upgraded to the ct20 - smaller but more efficient and maintains full boost to just under 7,000 rpm. Old one (ct26) begins to fade after about 5,500 rpm.
2) Standard boost was raised to 13psi (0.8 bar), higher than the Rev 1 and 2s.
3) No MAF sensor on Rev 3s
4) LSD as standard.
5) Revised suspension - less tail wagging and a more confidence inspiring drive, especially in the wet.
6) Revised rear lights and spoiler, larger and wider wheels as standard (I think), although these will probably have been changed.
These are some of the key changes.
Also, I think Rev 3s look better. The old rear lights look dated and the new rear spoiler is subtle and really suits the car.
I would also go for a Tintop and avoid the T-bar (seem to be more popular), as they tend to leak, rattle and aren't quite as stiff.
They're also easier to modify: decent exhaust, downpipe and filter together with a manual boost controller yield good results. Boost can be raised to about 1 bar (14.5 psi) safely with no need to for fuel cut defencer on the Rev 3.
A sorted Rev 3 should do 0-60 in around 5.5ish seconds. Top speed around 150-155mph.
Check out: www.imoc.co.uk/forums/
That really should be the quote of the year,imo. Applies to everything-almost.Gazboy said:
They aren't cheap to run though. MPG is 8-25mpg, insurance group 20, servicing is every 6k, calipers stick and track rod ends can break. Rocker cover gasket appeared to be an annual thing for me.
If you can't afford a good one, you can't afford to run a bad one.
After than that bit of doom and gloom they are fecking excellent.
>> Edited by Gazboy on Monday 10th April 13:40
He's right about fuel economy- but you knew that anyway.
I forgot to mention - check the suspension on these cars. They really are a mixed bag. Some cars come with expensive coilovers that have been set-up for the track and are nightmare on all but the smoothest of roads (especially our crappy roads!). And even if the suspension is largely standard, it can be very worn-out. Bushes, drop links, track rod ends, ball joints and top mounts may need replacing. Knocking sounds, something I experienced, are very common. Shock absorbers and springs can also be suspect, depending on what kind of action the car has seen in Japan.
One last thing: test drive a few before buying one as they will vary quite a bit.
If you do find a good one with a few choice mods, you'll have fun. They are genuinely fast and entertaining.
Good thing about the tubby, and most turbo's I suppose, was that when you are just pootling round town, or to the shops, you can do so with little or no boost. Want some fun, and it's all there on tap. So you can choose your fuel economy to a degree. They are a fantastic car, but parts can be pricey, and Mr T is not the most helpful chap you could deal with. A well looked after one will keep you grinning from ear to ear though.
Hi, Thanks for your replies.
I did expect fuel economy to be rubbish, especially compared to 45mpg out current car.
What sort of money should I be looking for a good 'un?
I thought that these would be very reliable as they are jap or am I being optimistic with the age of car?
Looking on autotrader many of the cars do seem to have abused.
Failing the MR2 what other jap coupe's would fit into this list?
Reliable, fairly cheap to run, rear wheel drive & fun to drive.
Tim.
I did expect fuel economy to be rubbish, especially compared to 45mpg out current car.
What sort of money should I be looking for a good 'un?
I thought that these would be very reliable as they are jap or am I being optimistic with the age of car?
Looking on autotrader many of the cars do seem to have abused.
Failing the MR2 what other jap coupe's would fit into this list?
Reliable, fairly cheap to run, rear wheel drive & fun to drive.
Tim.
4.5 to 5k should get you a decent Rev 3 (private) with good modifications. You've got to test drive as many as you can though, as they will vary a lot.
If you can't go much above 3k, then you could still go for a good Rev 1 or 2 Turbo. It's still worth looking around for them, as some are decent and have been cherished and modified well. Alternatively, you might want to consider a NA MR2. They come with about 170bhp and have reasonable performance.
Other cars you might want to consider are the MX5 - again not very fast but great RWD handling.
If you don't mind FWD you could always go for a VTEC Honda.
An old shape Civic or CRX del sol maybe or a Honda Prelude 2.2 VTEC - you should be able to pick up one of these. Nice revvy engine and quite fast.
Also, the Mitsubishi FTO Mivec (kind of like the VTEC) - these should be in your price range. FWD with a high revving 2.0 V6 engine. They look good too.
If you can't go much above 3k, then you could still go for a good Rev 1 or 2 Turbo. It's still worth looking around for them, as some are decent and have been cherished and modified well. Alternatively, you might want to consider a NA MR2. They come with about 170bhp and have reasonable performance.
Other cars you might want to consider are the MX5 - again not very fast but great RWD handling.
If you don't mind FWD you could always go for a VTEC Honda.
An old shape Civic or CRX del sol maybe or a Honda Prelude 2.2 VTEC - you should be able to pick up one of these. Nice revvy engine and quite fast.
Also, the Mitsubishi FTO Mivec (kind of like the VTEC) - these should be in your price range. FWD with a high revving 2.0 V6 engine. They look good too.
Like the guys have said, if you drive it 'properly' you'll be looking at 20 mpg or less, and they must be run on super unleaded. Frequent oil changes with fully-synthetic oil required too. They will only boost smoothly through the rev range if they have good plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm etc, high enough octane fuel and properly setup timing. I test-drove 4 MRTs and 3 of them either misfired/flat-spotted or had low boost/ECU retarded ignition due to some snag or other.
There are a few out there, take your time looking. If you get a good one the steering and turn-in are excellent and even as standard feel ballistically fast if running properly. AFAIK the suspension geometry was revised on the rev2 not the rev3 BTW, to remove the tendency to snap-back if the tail stepped out. Rev2 onwards have bigger brakes as well, twin-pot calipers at the front.
If you want a fast RWD car which will probably prove cheaper and easier to run overall, how about an S14 200SX? The MRT will be more fun, but you'll have to be committed!
There are a few out there, take your time looking. If you get a good one the steering and turn-in are excellent and even as standard feel ballistically fast if running properly. AFAIK the suspension geometry was revised on the rev2 not the rev3 BTW, to remove the tendency to snap-back if the tail stepped out. Rev2 onwards have bigger brakes as well, twin-pot calipers at the front.
If you want a fast RWD car which will probably prove cheaper and easier to run overall, how about an S14 200SX? The MRT will be more fun, but you'll have to be committed!
S14 is one of those cars I wish I had bought when I was younger. I may well seek one out, or a 280Z when in the US:scracthchin:. They always looked like really nice cars, and the ones I've driven have plenty of oomph to keep you amused! Very underestimated, and their rather subtle looks are a good thing nowadays.
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