Civic SRS warning light..
Discussion
Lurker coming out to play here 
Some advice if anyone can help.
My SRS warning light has recently decided to illuminate my dash, which pleased me no end. I have had it plugged in to a diagnosis machine and has returned the result of 'open circuit'. Apparently this means the problem cannot be specifically found but I have been told this is likely to be the airbag units within the steering column.
My mechanic has said that they cannot specify whether the fault is within the front or back unit and I could risk paying £600+ plus extensive labour to replace the front unit, only to find it's the back unit causing the problems. I cannot really afford to do this, but obviously it needs fixing and am looking to trade the car in soon too.
The horn has also stopped working and typically I have needed it a few times in the past week.
Has anyone else had similar issues or have any advice on this, maybe there is another way to find and solve the problem (I was told to remove the bulb by someone who sells cars for a living, and made note to steer clear of him in the future!)
Cheers
Some advice if anyone can help.
My SRS warning light has recently decided to illuminate my dash, which pleased me no end. I have had it plugged in to a diagnosis machine and has returned the result of 'open circuit'. Apparently this means the problem cannot be specifically found but I have been told this is likely to be the airbag units within the steering column.
My mechanic has said that they cannot specify whether the fault is within the front or back unit and I could risk paying £600+ plus extensive labour to replace the front unit, only to find it's the back unit causing the problems. I cannot really afford to do this, but obviously it needs fixing and am looking to trade the car in soon too.
The horn has also stopped working and typically I have needed it a few times in the past week.
Has anyone else had similar issues or have any advice on this, maybe there is another way to find and solve the problem (I was told to remove the bulb by someone who sells cars for a living, and made note to steer clear of him in the future!)
Cheers
Might be worth checking yourself to see if everything is properly is connected between the airbag/back unit before spending any money on it, something may just have come adrift. Be careful removing airbags though - take the proper precautions, which are no doubt listed on the web somewhere.
Hiya, If your horn has also stopped working it seems logic that it is the front system that is the problem. It's probably a wiring/connection type prob rather than the actual unit.It is probably time well spent to check all the connections/wiring along the steering column as well.
Nearly all airbag units in the whole wide world are made by the same Swiss company & are pretty indestructable (tested not to perish/break for at least 15 yrs)
I haven't done a civic SRS but have cracked open the nissan wheel/air bag units several times.There won't be any user servicable/repairable parts inside the unit, so just check all the connectors are good & snug & that none of the wires have been pinched/broken.
There shouldn't be any danger of it going off so long as battery is disconnected & any residual charge is dissapated(sp?) If still nervous about static ,earth cables to the steering column or similar,before you start.
How to remove an air bag (Ford),the principal will be the same though.
www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/interior/airbags/abpassenger.pdf#search='how%20to%20remove%20an%20air%20bag'
>> Edited by tuttle on Monday 27th March 09:15
Nearly all airbag units in the whole wide world are made by the same Swiss company & are pretty indestructable (tested not to perish/break for at least 15 yrs)
I haven't done a civic SRS but have cracked open the nissan wheel/air bag units several times.There won't be any user servicable/repairable parts inside the unit, so just check all the connectors are good & snug & that none of the wires have been pinched/broken.
There shouldn't be any danger of it going off so long as battery is disconnected & any residual charge is dissapated(sp?) If still nervous about static ,earth cables to the steering column or similar,before you start.
How to remove an air bag (Ford),the principal will be the same though.
www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/interior/airbags/abpassenger.pdf#search='how%20to%20remove%20an%20air%20bag'
>> Edited by tuttle on Monday 27th March 09:15
Word of warning!!!
Dont go probing the SRS harness wiring with the airbags connected!
If you apply an ohmeter to the wiring you stand a very real risk of detonating one or all of the airbags.
Trust me, you absolutely do not want one of those going off if youre perched over the wheel when it happens.
Youll suddenly find yourself hanging out the rear hatch with bits missing (off you!
) if it happens.
The correct way to proceed would be to remove each airbag in turn(ignition OFF) and fit a resistor of the same value as the airbag across the wiring plug to simulate the airbag being connected.
This has the effect of turning a permanent fault into an intermittant and so you can eliminate each bag/wiring harness in turn.
Things to note.
1) you cant just stick any old resistor across the terminals, it MUST be the correct value.
2) It must have an insulated portion to separate the terminals in the plugs because theyre fitted with shorting contacts that prevent accidental static discharges from setting off the airbag.
Id bet money that the source of your particular problem will be the "clockspring" that allows the airbag to be connected to the ecu.
This is usually fitted behind the steering wheel and is most likely your candidate for the problem.
It allows the steering wheel to be turned but still allows for an electrical connection and its wound unto a coil like a clockspring, hence the name.
Dont allow the garage to just change stuff willy nilly, get someone who KNOWS about these systems and youll then get a fast and cost effective repair.
Airbag systems are no different to any other, they just seem a bit mysterious but theyre really quite easy to troubleshoot if you know how.
Hope this helps.
Ps, have you checked the fuses?
>> Edited by Deltafox on Monday 27th March 16:11
Dont go probing the SRS harness wiring with the airbags connected!
If you apply an ohmeter to the wiring you stand a very real risk of detonating one or all of the airbags.
Trust me, you absolutely do not want one of those going off if youre perched over the wheel when it happens.
Youll suddenly find yourself hanging out the rear hatch with bits missing (off you!
) if it happens. The correct way to proceed would be to remove each airbag in turn(ignition OFF) and fit a resistor of the same value as the airbag across the wiring plug to simulate the airbag being connected.
This has the effect of turning a permanent fault into an intermittant and so you can eliminate each bag/wiring harness in turn.
Things to note.
1) you cant just stick any old resistor across the terminals, it MUST be the correct value.
2) It must have an insulated portion to separate the terminals in the plugs because theyre fitted with shorting contacts that prevent accidental static discharges from setting off the airbag.
Id bet money that the source of your particular problem will be the "clockspring" that allows the airbag to be connected to the ecu.
This is usually fitted behind the steering wheel and is most likely your candidate for the problem.
It allows the steering wheel to be turned but still allows for an electrical connection and its wound unto a coil like a clockspring, hence the name.
Dont allow the garage to just change stuff willy nilly, get someone who KNOWS about these systems and youll then get a fast and cost effective repair.
Airbag systems are no different to any other, they just seem a bit mysterious but theyre really quite easy to troubleshoot if you know how.
Hope this helps.
Ps, have you checked the fuses?
>> Edited by Deltafox on Monday 27th March 16:11
Deltafox, superb information thanks 
From what my garage told me, it sounded like whatever these systems use to 'talk' to each other had fallen out of sync because I hadn't moved anything or hit anything with the car and the light started off by staying on for a little while after start up, gradually this increased until it's now on permenantly.
There is no way I will be undertaking any work myself as I don't have the tools or knowledge (or balls) to mess with it. However I sounds like from the advice given here that it might not be as expensive to fix as originally thought.
If anyone knows where I could find a decent local specialist on these things, feel free to pass the info on.
Cheers
From what my garage told me, it sounded like whatever these systems use to 'talk' to each other had fallen out of sync because I hadn't moved anything or hit anything with the car and the light started off by staying on for a little while after start up, gradually this increased until it's now on permenantly.
There is no way I will be undertaking any work myself as I don't have the tools or knowledge (or balls) to mess with it. However I sounds like from the advice given here that it might not be as expensive to fix as originally thought.
If anyone knows where I could find a decent local specialist on these things, feel free to pass the info on.
Cheers
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