Should possibly put this is 'Engines'...
Discussion
Al you really need to be doing this with a wideband O2 sensor to make sure you are safe. If they are stock injectors something like an Apexi SAFC2 will work, but if you are running lean on a stock car/injectors you need to have a look at the fuel supply. Pump/filter/FPR.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
That's a very kind offer! When and where is convenient for you? I have quite a long commute from work so if it's a week night it'd have to be late..
I've just been looking back at my fuel consumption. I'm now getting 33mpg average.
Sure I do a lot of motorway runs but I also do a lot of country lanes...
Surely that's not normal??
I've just been looking back at my fuel consumption. I'm now getting 33mpg average.
Sure I do a lot of motorway runs but I also do a lot of country lanes...
Surely that's not normal??
If youre running the standard TCCS ecu youll need to defeat the adaption built into the ecu before attempting any adjustments.
You acheieve this by using a bridging wire across terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic connector in the engine bay.
Youre then free to "twiddle" with things like ignition and fuelling at idle etc.
Dont forget to remove the wire (turn off engine first) when youve finished playing.
You acheieve this by using a bridging wire across terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic connector in the engine bay.
Youre then free to "twiddle" with things like ignition and fuelling at idle etc.
Dont forget to remove the wire (turn off engine first) when youve finished playing.
deltafox said:
If youre running the standard TCCS ecu youll need to defeat the adaption built into the ecu before attempting any adjustments.
You acheieve this by using a bridging wire across terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic connector in the engine bay.
Youre then free to "twiddle" with things like ignition and fuelling at idle etc.
Dont forget to remove the wire (turn off engine first) when youve finished playing.
So are you saying a SAFC wouldnt work without this? All the SAFC does is intercept and alter the stock MAF/MAP signal. Very interest to know the answer.
Batty FTO said:
how yellow are the plugs btw?
They're not even a tiny bit yellow.
Normally plugs I've seen are tinged brown with carbon.
Mine have a ring of carbon around the base, but the tip and core look very clean indeed.
I know they're pretty new but I've been racking up the miles and would expect them to be looking more browned by now. That's why I'm worried.
Turbo T said:
_Al_ said:
Thanks mate - Girlfriend allowing I'll be booked in with Charlie on Saturday so hopefully won't need to take you up on that, but thanks very much for offering.
Cheers,
Al.
No worries, let us know how you get on and bash the Dyno up with the AFR's on please
Most certainly!
deltafox said:
If youre running the standard TCCS ecu youll need to defeat the adaption built into the ecu before attempting any adjustments.
You acheieve this by using a bridging wire across terminals TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic connector in the engine bay.
Youre then free to "twiddle" with things like ignition and fuelling at idle etc.
Dont forget to remove the wire (turn off engine first) when youve finished playing.
Hi mate - I'm running a Blitz Access, which I've been told is a standard unit with a hardwired set of remappings (well, that's my limited understanding of what I was told...).
I think I still need to do the bridge. I'll bring a paperclip with me!
How do I adjust the fuelling once the TE1/E1 bridge is in? Do I need special tools?
I'd like to richen it before I set out. I'm convinced running lean will do it no good...
>> Edited by _Al_ on Wednesday 28th September 09:12
I wondered about that but I don't have the equipment to check it.
That reminds me, I was assuming Charlie would have the kit, but now that I think about it that's kind of a long shot...
How can I do it without a timing light?
And if he doesn't and I can't then is it worth buying this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROLSON-NOT-GUYSON-CAR-IGNITION-TIMING-LIGHT_W0QQitemZ8001758598QQcategoryZ30921QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>> Edited by _Al_ on Wednesday 28th September 10:58
That reminds me, I was assuming Charlie would have the kit, but now that I think about it that's kind of a long shot...
How can I do it without a timing light?
And if he doesn't and I can't then is it worth buying this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROLSON-NOT-GUYSON-CAR-IGNITION-TIMING-LIGHT_W0QQitemZ8001758598QQcategoryZ30921QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>> Edited by _Al_ on Wednesday 28th September 10:58
Howdy. You can tweak the fuelling at idle by popping out the plastic plug on the MAF sensor (if its the flappy door bosch clone ) and adjust the screw underneath.
The SAFC will make a difference as it adjusts the sensor info in conjunction with the tccs mapping.
Better solution is to bugger off the tccs and get a Hydra Nemesis or similar ecu that is standalone and programmable....which funnily enough is my next step.
The SAFC will make a difference as it adjusts the sensor info in conjunction with the tccs mapping.
Better solution is to bugger off the tccs and get a Hydra Nemesis or similar ecu that is standalone and programmable....which funnily enough is my next step.
Sorry! Woah! Hold on!
My mechanical knowledge runs about as far as "That looks broken; this looks similar, I will swop them. Where's my axe?".
Words like 'SAFC' and 'tccs mapping' have no meaning!
Basically you're saying there's a screw on the air mass meter than I can turn to adjust the AFR...
Do I need to bridge TE1 and E1 while I'm doing it or is unplugging the sensor lead enough to stop the ECU interfering?
Also, to prevent the trial and error part, can anyone remember which way I turn it to make it run rich?
I know I should use a meter, but there's no decent motorshops - or even a Halfrauds - within 40 minutes of here. I only want to richen it up a bit to ensure it's safe to drive to the RR..
I swear, mod number one is a Dastek + fitting. This Blitz is scaring me.
Thanks for all the help and your unspoken acceptance of my well-tuned stupidity.
My mechanical knowledge runs about as far as "That looks broken; this looks similar, I will swop them. Where's my axe?".
Words like 'SAFC' and 'tccs mapping' have no meaning!
Basically you're saying there's a screw on the air mass meter than I can turn to adjust the AFR...
Do I need to bridge TE1 and E1 while I'm doing it or is unplugging the sensor lead enough to stop the ECU interfering?
Also, to prevent the trial and error part, can anyone remember which way I turn it to make it run rich?
I know I should use a meter, but there's no decent motorshops - or even a Halfrauds - within 40 minutes of here. I only want to richen it up a bit to ensure it's safe to drive to the RR..
I swear, mod number one is a Dastek + fitting. This Blitz is scaring me.
Thanks for all the help and your unspoken acceptance of my well-tuned stupidity.
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