Thoughts on this car please.
Discussion
Evening all.
What are peoples initial thoughts on this car please.
My son is interested in it, but new to Mazdas in general.
Any thing to be aware of etc etc.
Thanks for any help.
Cheers.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202010315...
What are peoples initial thoughts on this car please.
My son is interested in it, but new to Mazdas in general.
Any thing to be aware of etc etc.
Thanks for any help.
Cheers.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202010315...
Dave3166 said:
Evening all.
What are peoples initial thoughts on this car please.
My son is interested in it, but new to Mazdas in general.
Any thing to be aware of etc etc.
Thanks for any help.
Cheers.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202010315...
They do represent good value for money apart from the VED, the rotary engine in these needs to be looked after properly. Chris at RE-Worx is in Portsmouth and I know I've seen many RX7's and 8's at his place of work so looking after it properly may be a bit easier. Best look on the Mazda forum for more in depth advice. I really enjoyed my RX7.What are peoples initial thoughts on this car please.
My son is interested in it, but new to Mazdas in general.
Any thing to be aware of etc etc.
Thanks for any help.
Cheers.
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202010315...
Have a look on https://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php for advice and info. The RX-8 is a unique car, for good and for ill, so it's worth understanding its specific quirks before going for one. They're very highly rated for handling due to light weight, balance, low c.g, double wishbones etc.
The chassis is shared with the NC MX-5, stretched for a 2+2 coupe with unique clamshell doors to open up access to the rear. The engine is a development of Mazda's wankel rotary engine, which is very compact, very smooth, linear and achieves fairly high power at very high rpms.
The rotary is also relatively thirsty, doesn't make that much torque, and tends to lose compression over time which eventually means the engine needs to be rebuilt, although if you start with a good one you could go a long way before you reach that point. There are also some issues with the coils which can compromise them, the owners' club is the place to look.
It was very popular new and then the engine issues caught up with it, resulting in spectacularly low secondhand values (sub £3k for many cars) - although this example is a later R3 which aren't nearly as cheap, the price looks about right for an R3. You also should check for rust, although a car like that is probably ok.
If you think of it as a £7k hot-hatch alternative, you'll probably tire of its maintenance needs. If you think of it as a thoroughbred FR sports car and Porsche alternative that's available for a bargain price, then you'll probably be very happy with the uniqueness, the styling, the smooth-revving engine and the handling.
Edit to add: I also love my RX-7 ;-)
The chassis is shared with the NC MX-5, stretched for a 2+2 coupe with unique clamshell doors to open up access to the rear. The engine is a development of Mazda's wankel rotary engine, which is very compact, very smooth, linear and achieves fairly high power at very high rpms.
The rotary is also relatively thirsty, doesn't make that much torque, and tends to lose compression over time which eventually means the engine needs to be rebuilt, although if you start with a good one you could go a long way before you reach that point. There are also some issues with the coils which can compromise them, the owners' club is the place to look.
It was very popular new and then the engine issues caught up with it, resulting in spectacularly low secondhand values (sub £3k for many cars) - although this example is a later R3 which aren't nearly as cheap, the price looks about right for an R3. You also should check for rust, although a car like that is probably ok.
If you think of it as a £7k hot-hatch alternative, you'll probably tire of its maintenance needs. If you think of it as a thoroughbred FR sports car and Porsche alternative that's available for a bargain price, then you'll probably be very happy with the uniqueness, the styling, the smooth-revving engine and the handling.
Edit to add: I also love my RX-7 ;-)
I'm not an expert at all, just sharing what I've learnt from mulling a purchase of one of these for years now!
They are lovely cars, handle well by all accounts, look good inside and outside, are surprisingly practical with the reverse rear doors.
However don't underestimate the engine, both in how much care it needs and as a potential source of issues. 50-60k miles is around the point where engine issues can start to surface. One really important test is checking if it starts OK once the engine is hot, if it struggles then you are in for problems. Ideally a compression test should be done before you buy. Even when they are working they are very, very thirsty for the power/torque output.
Rotary Revs, a specialist near Leeds charges £1,900 for a basic rebuild. My view on these cars is that if you can fit a rebuild within your budget then I would go for it.
They are lovely cars, handle well by all accounts, look good inside and outside, are surprisingly practical with the reverse rear doors.
However don't underestimate the engine, both in how much care it needs and as a potential source of issues. 50-60k miles is around the point where engine issues can start to surface. One really important test is checking if it starts OK once the engine is hot, if it struggles then you are in for problems. Ideally a compression test should be done before you buy. Even when they are working they are very, very thirsty for the power/torque output.
Rotary Revs, a specialist near Leeds charges £1,900 for a basic rebuild. My view on these cars is that if you can fit a rebuild within your budget then I would go for it.
Its an R3 so better starter and oil injection system/program
Suspension is stiffer as I recall and reported not as compliance as the previous one and a little 'jiggly' but never driven an R3.
at 54k it maybe having starting problems which is why the seller wants rid. This is not always an engine problem as coil packs can also make starting a problem.
Ultimatley a compression test with the correct kit (you MUST use a rotary compression tester for this job, not one for a normal 4 stroke) would tell you the state of the engine.
Go for a test drive. Stop it then try to restart, if it struggles it could either be it apex seals or the coil packs. Take the risk.
I sold mine because I could not face paying more in tax than insurance but it was a really great fun car.
Also the LSD can break up (in that the location tabs snap off stopping the LSD function) but thats quite hard to test on a test drive with the owner sat next to you.
They are a risk, but factor in a rebuild it 'might' be worth it to you.
Suspension is stiffer as I recall and reported not as compliance as the previous one and a little 'jiggly' but never driven an R3.
at 54k it maybe having starting problems which is why the seller wants rid. This is not always an engine problem as coil packs can also make starting a problem.
Ultimatley a compression test with the correct kit (you MUST use a rotary compression tester for this job, not one for a normal 4 stroke) would tell you the state of the engine.
Go for a test drive. Stop it then try to restart, if it struggles it could either be it apex seals or the coil packs. Take the risk.
I sold mine because I could not face paying more in tax than insurance but it was a really great fun car.
Also the LSD can break up (in that the location tabs snap off stopping the LSD function) but thats quite hard to test on a test drive with the owner sat next to you.
They are a risk, but factor in a rebuild it 'might' be worth it to you.
Edited by Gary C on Sunday 13th December 23:19
Just noticed it has test results as 7.4 front and back
I would query if they have all 6 numbers (ie a reading for each chamber of the three cornered rotor x 2 as it has two rotors)
It also states 7.4 is 'factory fresh which is not right. 8.5 is factory fresh, 7.4 is actually ok ish for 54k and looked after with the correct oil would probably be fine for quite a few more miles but I would want to see the correct printout especially as the numbers need to be normalised to account for different starter motor speeds (look here https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/co... NOTE that site states that 7.4 is borderline so check were it was done as I suspect the numbers have not been normalised.
In addition, if I had one again, I would fit a Sohn adapter so I could use Delexia oil to be injected into the combustion chamber while having a really good synthetic in the 'crank case'
I would query if they have all 6 numbers (ie a reading for each chamber of the three cornered rotor x 2 as it has two rotors)
It also states 7.4 is 'factory fresh which is not right. 8.5 is factory fresh, 7.4 is actually ok ish for 54k and looked after with the correct oil would probably be fine for quite a few more miles but I would want to see the correct printout especially as the numbers need to be normalised to account for different starter motor speeds (look here https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/co... NOTE that site states that 7.4 is borderline so check were it was done as I suspect the numbers have not been normalised.
In addition, if I had one again, I would fit a Sohn adapter so I could use Delexia oil to be injected into the combustion chamber while having a really good synthetic in the 'crank case'
Edited by Gary C on Sunday 13th December 23:32
Gary C said:
Its an R3 so better starter and oil injection system/program
Suspension is stiffer as I recall and reported not as compliance as the previous one and a little 'jiggly' but never driven an R3.
at 54k it maybe having starting problems which is why the seller wants rid. This is not always an engine problem as coil packs can also make starting a problem.
Ultimatley a compression test with the correct kit (you MUST use a rotary compression tester for this job, not one for a normal 4 stroke) would tell you the state of the engine.
Go for a test drive. Stop it then try to restart, if it struggles it could either be it apex seals or the coil packs. Take the risk.
I sold mine because I could not face paying more in tax than insurance but it was a really great fun car.
Also the LSD can break up (in that the location tabs snap off stopping the LSD function) but thats quite hard to test on a test drive with the owner sat next to you.
They are a risk, but factor in a rebuild it 'might' be worth it to you.
Tax is £550, is this correct.Suspension is stiffer as I recall and reported not as compliance as the previous one and a little 'jiggly' but never driven an R3.
at 54k it maybe having starting problems which is why the seller wants rid. This is not always an engine problem as coil packs can also make starting a problem.
Ultimatley a compression test with the correct kit (you MUST use a rotary compression tester for this job, not one for a normal 4 stroke) would tell you the state of the engine.
Go for a test drive. Stop it then try to restart, if it struggles it could either be it apex seals or the coil packs. Take the risk.
I sold mine because I could not face paying more in tax than insurance but it was a really great fun car.
Also the LSD can break up (in that the location tabs snap off stopping the LSD function) but thats quite hard to test on a test drive with the owner sat next to you.
They are a risk, but factor in a rebuild it 'might' be worth it to you.
Edited by Gary C on Sunday 13th December 23:19
£580 a year road tax yes, as with anything with high CO2 emissions first registered after 23 March 2006. (Open the 'running costs' section on the above-linked Autotrader ad to see this).
Tbh I think the improvements on the R3, especially reliability, and it being newer, probably mean that going for an earlier car to save £150 a year would be a false economy.
Tbh I think the improvements on the R3, especially reliability, and it being newer, probably mean that going for an earlier car to save £150 a year would be a false economy.
OP, have you or your son read this?
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features-h...
Might give some additional insight. In addition I seem to recall that there was a PH article published whereby a forum member wrote of his own experiences of buying a well cared for and maintained example and the engine still failed.
I wouldn't, personally.
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features-h...
Might give some additional insight. In addition I seem to recall that there was a PH article published whereby a forum member wrote of his own experiences of buying a well cared for and maintained example and the engine still failed.
I wouldn't, personally.
ReverendCounter said:
OP, have you or your son read this?
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features-h...
Might give some additional insight. In addition I seem to recall that there was a PH article published whereby a forum member wrote of his own experiences of buying a well cared for and maintained example and the engine still failed.
I wouldn't, personally.
Good link - I'd definitely recommend reading the comments thread under that article, lots of owner experiences with people being honest about the pros and the cons, gives a sense of what kind of people enjoy / regret buying one of these.https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features-h...
Might give some additional insight. In addition I seem to recall that there was a PH article published whereby a forum member wrote of his own experiences of buying a well cared for and maintained example and the engine still failed.
I wouldn't, personally.
Good find above on how long the car's been up for sale, always good to know. I would think that these aren't the easiest to sell on, I agree. OTOH we don't know how many other RX-8s have been advertised and sold quickly over the past three months, since those ones are no longer listed for sale.
I've owned my RX-8 for about 3 and a half years and they really are underrated cars. That said, you do need to be very careful buying one.
As mentioned, you should ideally have 3 compression test numbers per rotor (so 6 numbers in total). I would really recommend looking into the specifics of living with a rotary as well before buying one. They drink petrol (don't expect much more than 20mpg at the most unless motorway cruising). OEM Mazda coils are generally considered to be a consumable so a lot of owners upgrade to BHR coils. You'll probably find that a lot of cars are running a decat; RX-8s tend to destroy their catalytic converters pretty quickly. It's also worth inspecting the ignition HT leads as the OEM ones tend to perish on older cars (might not be an issue on a newer R3 though).
If you do go and look at one, get the car warmed up and then turn it off. Try and restart the car while it's warm and see if it struggles to start. Once it's warm, make sure to take it to redline; a common problem with these is that the Secondary Shutter Valve (SSV) gets stuck. If you notice hesitation at higher RPM it can sometimes be this.
I'd probably go for either a R3 or a very late series 1 as some of the updates Mazda did help slightly with engine longevity, especially the extra oil injector on the R3. R3s do command a premium over series 1 cars. Another option is to buy a broken one for cheap and rebuild the engine.
They're not perfect and they do have some issues but I'd still recommend one if you can find one that's been looked after. Having used one as a daily for 3 years, I'd probably only recommend one as a weekend car but they're great fun on the right roads. Just be careful, there are a ton of bad RX-8s around. I'd probably recommend looking on the RX-8 owners club too for more advice.
As mentioned, you should ideally have 3 compression test numbers per rotor (so 6 numbers in total). I would really recommend looking into the specifics of living with a rotary as well before buying one. They drink petrol (don't expect much more than 20mpg at the most unless motorway cruising). OEM Mazda coils are generally considered to be a consumable so a lot of owners upgrade to BHR coils. You'll probably find that a lot of cars are running a decat; RX-8s tend to destroy their catalytic converters pretty quickly. It's also worth inspecting the ignition HT leads as the OEM ones tend to perish on older cars (might not be an issue on a newer R3 though).
If you do go and look at one, get the car warmed up and then turn it off. Try and restart the car while it's warm and see if it struggles to start. Once it's warm, make sure to take it to redline; a common problem with these is that the Secondary Shutter Valve (SSV) gets stuck. If you notice hesitation at higher RPM it can sometimes be this.
I'd probably go for either a R3 or a very late series 1 as some of the updates Mazda did help slightly with engine longevity, especially the extra oil injector on the R3. R3s do command a premium over series 1 cars. Another option is to buy a broken one for cheap and rebuild the engine.
They're not perfect and they do have some issues but I'd still recommend one if you can find one that's been looked after. Having used one as a daily for 3 years, I'd probably only recommend one as a weekend car but they're great fun on the right roads. Just be careful, there are a ton of bad RX-8s around. I'd probably recommend looking on the RX-8 owners club too for more advice.
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