Evo reliability?

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Discussion

theog87

Original Poster:

147 posts

80 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
Evening all

I'm generally a BMW guy, but have always loved japanese cars. My bother has a gen 1 s2000 and my wife and her family have always bought mitsubishi's. When i spent a bit of time in SE asia I grew quite a fondness of the brand, in particular the older 4x4s.

I'm now looking at a semi family car (just 1 kid for weekend trips) and pretty set on an e46 m3, however have always toyed with the idea of an evo.

Just wondering how these two would compare in terms of reliability, as finding a good condition e46 m3 convertible is pretty damn hard!

Just seen this and wondering your thoughts... maybe not this particular one, but something on the likes of - https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201...

Do jap cars run under the same assumptions that turbo's will go after 100k?

Sorry I know this isn't the most glamorous subject matter but I've always been tempted. Something very robus about mitsubishi's. Even my wifes colt's 1L engine sounds pretty throaty and although it handles like a fridge it does have many appealing sides to it. Just wondering if to go Jap for a while.

All thoughts welcome.

Theog

Edited by theog87 on Saturday 20th October 19:19

zb

2,924 posts

170 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
They're generally reliable if you get a good one, and a money pit if you don't.

You have to take into account that they are (relatively speaking) old cars now, especially considering that what you have (out the box) is a detuned road going rally car. Unless you keep it in a garage, and only bring it out for high days and holidays, then it will not be just routine servicing, tyres and brakes.

As for the turbo, it's not the most common of faults, although it does happen. More likely that AYC will require a complete rebuild during ownership, or the diff will grenade, that's assuming you keep on top of rust. I've saw more and more getting scrapped due to rust, and the testers passing them through MOTs at this stage ought to be ashamed of themselves.

I wouldn't be buying the one you linked, not through any technical reasons, I just don't like the X. The IX is the last generation of Evo I'd consider.


theog87

Original Poster:

147 posts

80 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
zb said:
The IX is the last generation of Evo I'd consider.
Ok interesting.

Rust is a **** with older cars, but I seem to be drawn to them.

How comes the IX or is that rather complicated?

FYI I'm a fan of the hydraulic steering of bmw's. What's the crack with EVOs?

adam.

419 posts

217 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
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Rust, they've all got it, or will get it.

I've had my 6 two years, and it's let me down twice. Once with a rear diff failure, and once with a crank pulley collapse.

The regular maintenance would make others cry too.

But, I use mine for mostly track work, so it comes with the territory.

Steering isn't bad, but I came from a DC5 which was absolutely spectacular.

theog87

Original Poster:

147 posts

80 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
Ok interesting.

Just for context, how much is rust repair costs if you could put any figures to it?

zb

2,924 posts

170 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
theog87 said:
Ok interesting.

Rust is a **** with older cars, but I seem to be drawn to them.

How comes the IX or is that rather complicated?

FYI I'm a fan of the hydraulic steering of bmw's. What's the crack with EVOs?
They changed a lot between IX and X, too much IMO, it just doesn't feel like an Evo. Evos are raw, aggressive, is that all you got? You never feel like you've completely mastered it, if you do then you'll shortly be off the track and viewing scenery backwards.

Evos go exactly where you point them, although it's easier to steer mine at 40mph than at 5mph, tight parking is a pain in the arse, with only 2.5 turns lock to lock.

I

zb

2,924 posts

170 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
theog87 said:
Ok interesting.

Just for context, how much is rust repair costs if you could put any figures to it?
Depends whether they need to drop the subframe to fix it.

The most common is chassis legs, a good Evo indy will cut out the bad and weld in new for ~£200 per leg.

adam.

419 posts

217 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
theog87 said:
Ok interesting.

Just for context, how much is rust repair costs if you could put any figures to it?
That can depend on how much you do yourself, from a strip down point of view.

I'd wager ~5k, for drive in drive out. It's nearly always the rear chassis rails, and they generally rust from the inside, out.

And definitely bin off those SST thoughts. biggrin

theog87

Original Poster:

147 posts

80 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all
adam. said:
That can depend on how much you do yourself, from a strip down point of view.

I'd wager ~5k, for drive in drive out. It's nearly always the rear chassis rails, and they generally rust from the inside, out.

And definitely bin off those SST thoughts. biggrin
Wow ok so that's a big one then. Some of the subframe repairs for e46 are quite high but not £5k :S

adam.

419 posts

217 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
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5 might be the top end, but it's no mean feat...

http://www.autotorque.net/mitsubishi-evolution-und...


Evolved

3,644 posts

193 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
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As above really. Buy a good one and it’ll be super reliable, assuming you don’t go chasing big power! Rust kills them, they’re coming into 20 odd year old cars now and were not built with current standards back then. British winters murder them so tread carefully.

To drive they’re a dream, connected, agile, raw, tactile, damn good fun!

On my fourth now over the span of 11 years, had a few M3’s, always seem to come back to Evo’s!

Mines tucked away now for winter, spring is when it comes out again.

Edited by Evolved on Saturday 20th October 22:06

Evolved

3,644 posts

193 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
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Evolved

3,644 posts

193 months

Saturday 20th October 2018
quotequote all

Heaveho

5,625 posts

180 months

Sunday 21st October 2018
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I've had an '03 plate 8 for 15 years. All that's gone wrong is the heater matrix and the air con rad.The only other problems I've had with it were modifications, one being the Evo 9 turbo of unknown provenance I fitted which finally let go last year, after 6 years at 1.8 bar and about 380 brake, and a boost solenoid packing up. They're generally exceptionally reliable given how well they go and what you can run them at.

It's shocking on fuel, regular maintenance is essential and can be expensive, and they get through tyres and pads ( worse on the rears on mine ) pretty sharpish if you drive them like the maker intended. I love it, it's irreplaceable.



Edited by Heaveho on Sunday 21st October 01:05

theog87

Original Poster:

147 posts

80 months

Sunday 21st October 2018
quotequote all
Ok interesting

What are the main difference between IX and X.

Does the IX have hydraulic steering and the likes of and the X does most of the steering for you kinda thing?

It's the same with most BMW's post 2010. For instance the e91 has hydraulic steering and feels so much more engaging than the f31 which to be honest kinda feels like it drives itself. One is floaty (f31) and you can hit all kinds of cambers and feel no difference, then the e91 is much more of gripping experience shall we say.

Sound similar?

adam.

419 posts

217 months

Sunday 21st October 2018
quotequote all
They are completely different animals.

Underneath, 1/2/3 are the same, 4/5/6 are the same, 7/8/9 are the same.

X is the overweight cousin, tbh.

If I didn't have a 6, it would be a 9 GT. All the creature 'comforts' (I use the word sparingly, for Evos) of a car you'd kind of hope for, but with no AYC.


V987S

42 posts

146 months

Monday 22nd October 2018
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Just to echo what has been said by others:

The AYC unit does need to be looked at when buying later evos. You can however avoid this altogether by buying the lightweight 'RS' variant which does not have an AYC but rather a mechanical limited slip diff.

The 4g63 is belt driven so the cambelt has to be changed periodically.

I recently changed my Evo 9 RS transmission and diff fluids, and there are three locations for those: front diff, tranny, and rear diff. Bear in mind you need to use correct grade of oil for each of the locations.

I previously owned 987 Boxster S and three STis before buying the evo. Mind you, I test drove so many cars - including several fast beemers and newer exige - before buying the 9RS. It is the best handling sedan I have driven.

If you have never driven an evo before, I would strongly suggest that you take a test drive. It is a very fun car to own, but I would not want to daily the car as I feel it is too raw and quite on the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of comfort to the fast German cars.

A close friend of mine brought his e92 m3 over and we swapped cars for a short while, and I can tell you that an m3 is much more comfortable and family-friendly than the evo 9 rs.

Obligatory pic below


Mansells Tash

5,733 posts

212 months

Monday 22nd October 2018
quotequote all
I'm a pretty new owner, bought my Evo 9MR from Japan in November, it arrived off a boat in Feb.

The underneath of it is rust free but it has "needed" a fair bit of work to get it where I want it.

Cambelt Change (inc waterpump and balancing shaft belt and whatever other bits they do at the same time)
Full fluid changes (I did this at home myself)
New Tires
Drivers seat bolster refurb
Replace the previously removed rear badges
Decat
Replace rear muffler (it was a titanium resonator originally) with a Ralliart SS muffler
Fuel Pump swap to Walbro 255lph
3 port boost solenoid
ECU Fettle (now 335bhp at the wheels)
Repaint brake calipers (they all fade to pink)
Replace some fancypants race wheels with OEM BBS ones
Put in tailored seat covers (to prevent accidents/fading)

So now its gone from this...


To this...


I'd never driven an Evo before and I can honestly say it was every bit as good as I'd hoped it would be! Get a good one and don't look back, they're a pretty awesome experience thats hard to replicate!

V987S

42 posts

146 months

Tuesday 23rd October 2018
quotequote all
Mansells Tash said:
I'm a pretty new owner, bought my Evo 9MR from Japan in November, it arrived off a boat in Feb.

The underneath of it is rust free but it has "needed" a fair bit of work to get it where I want it.

Cambelt Change (inc waterpump and balancing shaft belt and whatever other bits they do at the same time)
Full fluid changes (I did this at home myself)
New Tires
Drivers seat bolster refurb
Replace the previously removed rear badges
Decat
Replace rear muffler (it was a titanium resonator originally) with a Ralliart SS muffler
Fuel Pump swap to Walbro 255lph
3 port boost solenoid
ECU Fettle (now 335bhp at the wheels)
Repaint brake calipers (they all fade to pink)
Replace some fancypants race wheels with OEM BBS ones
Put in tailored seat covers (to prevent accidents/fading)

So now its gone from this...


To this...


I'd never driven an Evo before and I can honestly say it was every bit as good as I'd hoped it would be! Get a good one and don't look back, they're a pretty awesome experience thats hard to replicate!
What an awesome restoration job you did there! PM sent!

Mansells Tash

5,733 posts

212 months

Tuesday 23rd October 2018
quotequote all
V987S said:
What an awesome restoration job you did there! PM sent!
I'm afraid my E-Mail tied to my account is dead and I cant change it, have sent you a PM on how to get hold of me.