One for the 'liner owners....
Discussion
Well, I test drove a manual R33 GTS25t, but could do with some advice, what with being a skyline virgin. 
It's a '96 facelift model, about 85k miles, imported in 2002. No history at all. Drives ok, but there's a few little niggles, and some stuff I'm not sure about. See what you think...
1) The boost gauge goes up about half way between the 0 and the 7 when you accelerate hard - is this normal, or should it be higher? It swings right round to -7 when you lift off, although I couldn't hear a 'whooosh'. It didn't feel as fast as I was expecting either.
2) There's an aftermarket BOV venting to atmos; standard air filter, but the cold air feed is missing.
3) The gearstick gaiter is badly worn, almost falling apart - a common problem, or a sign of much higher mileage? Is it easy to replace?
4) Rear discs are badly grooved, and could do with a skim.
5) Headlight covers are very yellow and cloudy - is water getting in? Are they easy to replace?
6) Anything else I should look out for?
Thanks in advance guys!
It's a '96 facelift model, about 85k miles, imported in 2002. No history at all. Drives ok, but there's a few little niggles, and some stuff I'm not sure about. See what you think...
1) The boost gauge goes up about half way between the 0 and the 7 when you accelerate hard - is this normal, or should it be higher? It swings right round to -7 when you lift off, although I couldn't hear a 'whooosh'. It didn't feel as fast as I was expecting either.
2) There's an aftermarket BOV venting to atmos; standard air filter, but the cold air feed is missing.
3) The gearstick gaiter is badly worn, almost falling apart - a common problem, or a sign of much higher mileage? Is it easy to replace?
4) Rear discs are badly grooved, and could do with a skim.
5) Headlight covers are very yellow and cloudy - is water getting in? Are they easy to replace?
6) Anything else I should look out for?
Thanks in advance guys!
Hiya
Sorry bit of a long post,got carried away
Almost same model as my '95GTST.
'96 ECR 2.5 RBDET-GTST M2 started in early '96
Apart from the cosmetics:slightly higher 1-pc rear spoiler,no rear 1/4 panels,GTR style(+round indicators)fr bumper, it is almost identical to an 'M1'
85k miles,is quite high to start on(most are imorted at 20k-40kmiles)tho no a prob for the ,car/engine generally bomb-proof.Low asking price should reflect this.
Your points in order:
1)OE boost gauge range of movement sounds normal.Stock boost levels are,iirc-0.45 & 0.6 bar at this level the heavy GTST can feel a bit lardy.For the whoosh,you'd need some kind of air cone type filter.
2)Cold air-feeds are nearly always the 1st thing to go missing,not relly a prob.BOV's are rumored to upset idling with a stock ecu,tho I have no experience of this.
3)Gaiter material,isnt particularly hi-quality,mines abit tatty at 45k miles.Any odd marks,holes in it?
4)If the rear discs are knackered,& the fronts OK,then logically the fronts may have been replaced.If replacing,go after-market,Nissan discs= v expensive,+£500.00 each
5)Lights do seem to yellow with age,& are prone to some
leakage.Check for condensation on a dry day,to see if this is happening.Cost to replace <>£200.00 s/h or £300.00 new-each.Yellowing/light scratches can be rubbed/buffed out quite easily.
6)Stock twin exhaust on the car?Quite a few older 'liners have been highly modded in Jpn drift scene then returned to near original condition for export,'zorsts are often left on.Also check under sills/skirts for any mild damage from sliding type collisions.An ex-drifter will prob be very lowered more importantly extremely hard worked.
Worth having a v good listen to the turbo,the Garret ceramic internals are prone to 'letting go' suddenly if abused-esp if run above 1.0bar.They whine or 'sing' when worn-smoke too.
Usual common sense checks really,If I think of any thing else will post later
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 27th April 09:23
Sorry bit of a long post,got carried away
Almost same model as my '95GTST.
'96 ECR 2.5 RBDET-GTST M2 started in early '96
Apart from the cosmetics:slightly higher 1-pc rear spoiler,no rear 1/4 panels,GTR style(+round indicators)fr bumper, it is almost identical to an 'M1'
85k miles,is quite high to start on(most are imorted at 20k-40kmiles)tho no a prob for the ,car/engine generally bomb-proof.Low asking price should reflect this.
Your points in order:
1)OE boost gauge range of movement sounds normal.Stock boost levels are,iirc-0.45 & 0.6 bar at this level the heavy GTST can feel a bit lardy.For the whoosh,you'd need some kind of air cone type filter.
2)Cold air-feeds are nearly always the 1st thing to go missing,not relly a prob.BOV's are rumored to upset idling with a stock ecu,tho I have no experience of this.
3)Gaiter material,isnt particularly hi-quality,mines abit tatty at 45k miles.Any odd marks,holes in it?
4)If the rear discs are knackered,& the fronts OK,then logically the fronts may have been replaced.If replacing,go after-market,Nissan discs= v expensive,+£500.00 each
5)Lights do seem to yellow with age,& are prone to some
leakage.Check for condensation on a dry day,to see if this is happening.Cost to replace <>£200.00 s/h or £300.00 new-each.Yellowing/light scratches can be rubbed/buffed out quite easily.
6)Stock twin exhaust on the car?Quite a few older 'liners have been highly modded in Jpn drift scene then returned to near original condition for export,'zorsts are often left on.Also check under sills/skirts for any mild damage from sliding type collisions.An ex-drifter will prob be very lowered more importantly extremely hard worked.
Worth having a v good listen to the turbo,the Garret ceramic internals are prone to 'letting go' suddenly if abused-esp if run above 1.0bar.They whine or 'sing' when worn-smoke too.
Usual common sense checks really,If I think of any thing else will post later
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 27th April 09:23
Skyline buyers guide,necessarily a bit generalised-this one pinched from sklyline o/c but was written by my partner so posting here shouldn't bother anyone.
General;
Always view cars in daylight. Avoid viewing in rain and ensure the seller has cleaned car. Dirt can hide a lot of sins.
If the Japanese auction sheet is available ask to see it. Have a look at the condition code given to the vehicle, as this will let you know whether the vehicle has any accident history. R, RA or 0 generally denotes accident history. A forum search on auction sheets will reveal more.
Check the Blue Nissan Build Plate at the back of engine bay. The plate shows the chassis number and fixed by white plastic rivets. This plate should never be removed except perhaps if the car has had engine bay re-spray so the fixings ought to be original.
Background data on vehicles from Japan is available through BIMTA.
www.bimta.org/default.asp
Bodywork;
Check car close up AND from 10-15ft away paying particular attention to paintwork and panel alignment. Stand at angle to car checking colour matches and for paintwork ripples or signs of blending.
Look round the car and underneath for signs of over-spray. If car has been re-sprayed you want to know why.
Check wing nuts for signs of removal and the front support bar to see if there are any signs that car has been in accident.
Look under sills at chassis legs that run from back to front of car on both sides. Make sure the small mid-way weld hasn’t split; this can be a sign of repaired shunt.
Check under carpet in boot. Make sure the spare is there. Pay particular attention for rust and signs of accident repair.
Open and close doors/boot/bonnet/windows. Make sure all panels line up as should and look for rust in areas water may sit.
Inspect underneath the car for signs of corrosion. Surface rust may be brushed off and treated.
Check all windows for cracks/chips. Replacing a window on a skyline can be expensive.
Electronics and interior;
Make sure that the engine check light comes on at start up but does NOT stay on when driving. Same with the HICAS light.
Check all electronics function correctly.
If the car is a fresh import on original stereo it will not function without wave expander (not expensive).
Nearly all the insurers will ask that your skyline has a Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser and some may ask for trackers.
Do the odometer readings appear consistent with any service stickers found on car? Stickers are generally located in door jams or engine bay.
Is the interior wear (seats/steering wheel/gators etc) what you would expect in relation to the mileage?
Engine;
Looked after the RB series engine is strong. Make sure it has well cared for with regular service intervals, particularly important on a turbo car. Ensure that the current owner has been running on super-unleaded fuel and allowing turbo to warm up/idle down. Is there proof positive of cambelt change? If not, factor the price of changing belt into your budget. Buying from another enthusiast who knows how to look after the car can be an advantage. When buying a fresh import use a reputable importer with trusted Japan buyer.
Check that the engine appears cared for and ‘looks factory’ with neat wiring and no bodged jobs. This applies to both standard and highly modified cars.
Check for fluid leaks; i.e. Clutch, brake, power steering and ABS. Check under the engine for oil leaks paying attention to area around sump plug.
Check fluids are clean. Pull out dipstick and remove oil filler cap to check for healthy, clean oil. Black oil suggests poor maintenance. Does the oil smell burnt? Similarly check for clean coolant. Be wary of any greyish or gooey matter in these areas.
Check hoses and belts for wear and splits.
Road testing;
Never road test a vehicle with stereo on. You need to be listening to the car. Similarly don’t let the seller talk all the way through your test drive.
Listen out for whistling noises whilst accelerating as this can indicate turbo problems or air leaks.
Listen out for detonation (or pinking) under load. Detonation can be indicative of poor ignition setting, low quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a badly maintained engine.
Watch out for hesitations or misfires. Often these don’t reveal themselves until around 5k rpm so accelerate through from 3k rpm in third or fourth gear to see if the car experiences any violent hesitation, misfiring or holding back at this range.
Check for blue smoke under hard acceleration and during deceleration. Can be sign of engine wear or turbo problems.
Make sure that the operation of clutch, gearbox and brakes is smooth. Ensure that the gearbox is not whining and that there are no crunching synchros on gear changes (it is normal for the box to be stiff when cold).
Check that vehicle is showing a nice healthy oil pressure rising under load.
Drive vehicle long enough that any temp issues are revealed.
At normal engine temp leave the car idling and check for;
Blue smoke = can indicate a variety of turbo or breathing related problems.
Black smoke = can indicate fuelling issues.
White smoke = possible engine damage, headgasket or cylinder head problems.
Brakes, steering, wheels and suspension;
Check for any vibration through steering when driving and that the car doesn’t pull to one side under breaking.
Do a visual check on discs for scoring and check the thickness of brake pads. If these are going to need replacing imminently then try to get the seller to do so or some money knocked off.
Check dampers for any obvious leaks. Also look out for grease leaking from ball-joints. Suspect knocking when driven may be result of dry joints.
Most RWD GTS models are equipped with HICAS rear wheel steering. You probably wont notice the assistance of this system but it tends to be pretty reliable. Simply check that the HICAS light on dash does not remain on when driving.
Similarly most are equipped with Limited-Slip Diff. You should not be able to hear any strange or whining noises from the diff. Like the HICAS this system tends to be pretty problem free.
Check tyres for wear on the inside edge and make sure front + rears haven’t been swapped.
FINALLY;
The most important advice given to me when buying a skyline was ‘if you have never driven a skyline before then even a bad one can feel good so make sure you test drive lots of cars’. Don’t forget that the AA or RAC will check a car out pretty thoroughly for you. ‘If in doubt, leave it out’. Good luck with buying your skyline.
General;
Always view cars in daylight. Avoid viewing in rain and ensure the seller has cleaned car. Dirt can hide a lot of sins.
If the Japanese auction sheet is available ask to see it. Have a look at the condition code given to the vehicle, as this will let you know whether the vehicle has any accident history. R, RA or 0 generally denotes accident history. A forum search on auction sheets will reveal more.
Check the Blue Nissan Build Plate at the back of engine bay. The plate shows the chassis number and fixed by white plastic rivets. This plate should never be removed except perhaps if the car has had engine bay re-spray so the fixings ought to be original.
Background data on vehicles from Japan is available through BIMTA.
www.bimta.org/default.asp
Bodywork;
Check car close up AND from 10-15ft away paying particular attention to paintwork and panel alignment. Stand at angle to car checking colour matches and for paintwork ripples or signs of blending.
Look round the car and underneath for signs of over-spray. If car has been re-sprayed you want to know why.
Check wing nuts for signs of removal and the front support bar to see if there are any signs that car has been in accident.
Look under sills at chassis legs that run from back to front of car on both sides. Make sure the small mid-way weld hasn’t split; this can be a sign of repaired shunt.
Check under carpet in boot. Make sure the spare is there. Pay particular attention for rust and signs of accident repair.
Open and close doors/boot/bonnet/windows. Make sure all panels line up as should and look for rust in areas water may sit.
Inspect underneath the car for signs of corrosion. Surface rust may be brushed off and treated.
Check all windows for cracks/chips. Replacing a window on a skyline can be expensive.
Electronics and interior;
Make sure that the engine check light comes on at start up but does NOT stay on when driving. Same with the HICAS light.
Check all electronics function correctly.
If the car is a fresh import on original stereo it will not function without wave expander (not expensive).
Nearly all the insurers will ask that your skyline has a Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser and some may ask for trackers.
Do the odometer readings appear consistent with any service stickers found on car? Stickers are generally located in door jams or engine bay.
Is the interior wear (seats/steering wheel/gators etc) what you would expect in relation to the mileage?
Engine;
Looked after the RB series engine is strong. Make sure it has well cared for with regular service intervals, particularly important on a turbo car. Ensure that the current owner has been running on super-unleaded fuel and allowing turbo to warm up/idle down. Is there proof positive of cambelt change? If not, factor the price of changing belt into your budget. Buying from another enthusiast who knows how to look after the car can be an advantage. When buying a fresh import use a reputable importer with trusted Japan buyer.
Check that the engine appears cared for and ‘looks factory’ with neat wiring and no bodged jobs. This applies to both standard and highly modified cars.
Check for fluid leaks; i.e. Clutch, brake, power steering and ABS. Check under the engine for oil leaks paying attention to area around sump plug.
Check fluids are clean. Pull out dipstick and remove oil filler cap to check for healthy, clean oil. Black oil suggests poor maintenance. Does the oil smell burnt? Similarly check for clean coolant. Be wary of any greyish or gooey matter in these areas.
Check hoses and belts for wear and splits.
Road testing;
Never road test a vehicle with stereo on. You need to be listening to the car. Similarly don’t let the seller talk all the way through your test drive.
Listen out for whistling noises whilst accelerating as this can indicate turbo problems or air leaks.
Listen out for detonation (or pinking) under load. Detonation can be indicative of poor ignition setting, low quality fuel, excessive boost pressure or a badly maintained engine.
Watch out for hesitations or misfires. Often these don’t reveal themselves until around 5k rpm so accelerate through from 3k rpm in third or fourth gear to see if the car experiences any violent hesitation, misfiring or holding back at this range.
Check for blue smoke under hard acceleration and during deceleration. Can be sign of engine wear or turbo problems.
Make sure that the operation of clutch, gearbox and brakes is smooth. Ensure that the gearbox is not whining and that there are no crunching synchros on gear changes (it is normal for the box to be stiff when cold).
Check that vehicle is showing a nice healthy oil pressure rising under load.
Drive vehicle long enough that any temp issues are revealed.
At normal engine temp leave the car idling and check for;
Blue smoke = can indicate a variety of turbo or breathing related problems.
Black smoke = can indicate fuelling issues.
White smoke = possible engine damage, headgasket or cylinder head problems.
Brakes, steering, wheels and suspension;
Check for any vibration through steering when driving and that the car doesn’t pull to one side under breaking.
Do a visual check on discs for scoring and check the thickness of brake pads. If these are going to need replacing imminently then try to get the seller to do so or some money knocked off.
Check dampers for any obvious leaks. Also look out for grease leaking from ball-joints. Suspect knocking when driven may be result of dry joints.
Most RWD GTS models are equipped with HICAS rear wheel steering. You probably wont notice the assistance of this system but it tends to be pretty reliable. Simply check that the HICAS light on dash does not remain on when driving.
Similarly most are equipped with Limited-Slip Diff. You should not be able to hear any strange or whining noises from the diff. Like the HICAS this system tends to be pretty problem free.
Check tyres for wear on the inside edge and make sure front + rears haven’t been swapped.
FINALLY;
The most important advice given to me when buying a skyline was ‘if you have never driven a skyline before then even a bad one can feel good so make sure you test drive lots of cars’. Don’t forget that the AA or RAC will check a car out pretty thoroughly for you. ‘If in doubt, leave it out’. Good luck with buying your skyline.
1) The boost gauge goes up about half way between the 0 and the 7 when you accelerate hard - is this normal, or should it be higher? It swings right round to -7 when you lift off, although I couldn't hear a 'whooosh'. It didn't feel as fast as I was expecting either.
>> Sounds fine to me. The standard ceramic turbo can't handle much higher boost... You won't hear a whoosh with standard air filter...
2) There's an aftermarket BOV venting to atmos; standard air filter, but the cold air feed is missing.
>> Chuck the a/m BOV, replace with the standard recirc, replace the a/f with an Apexi cone, find a cold air feed from the scrappy, enjoy the sucking (steady...) on acceleration and j-style sound on lift off.
3) The gearstick gaiter is badly worn, almost falling apart - a common problem, or a sign of much higher mileage? Is it easy to replace?
>> Sounds about right. Piss easy to replace.
4) Rear discs are badly grooved, and could do with a skim.
>> Pass
5) Headlight covers are very yellow and cloudy - is water getting in? Are they easy to replace?
>> T-cut is fine. Get an MOT, it will fail, get current owner to apply the elbow grease
6) Anything else I should look out for?
>> exhaust throws out blue smoke? check suspension bushes not leaking? all shutlines straight and engine bay not "distorted" (owners like to crash skylines for fun
)?Won't using a cutting paste take the glaze off the light surface?
KlearKote vanilla mousse works really well,imo.Like T-cut but 100% better.I got some from the states but I've heard you can get it over here from serious custom type places.
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 27th April 15:00
KlearKote vanilla mousse works really well,imo.Like T-cut but 100% better.I got some from the states but I've heard you can get it over here from serious custom type places.
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 27th April 15:00
Thanks for all the replies, all useful stuff 
Having slept on it, I'm gonna pass on this one... just too many little niggly problems that make you think it hasn't been cared for. I didn't mention that there was a turbo timer that unlocked the doors after it had finished counting down, the boot lock cover was broken off, etc, etc.
Anyway, seeing as there are loads of Jap importers here in NZ, I'm going to import a fresh one myself The car has been selected, just got to see if I'm outbid now...
:fingerscrossed:
Having slept on it, I'm gonna pass on this one... just too many little niggly problems that make you think it hasn't been cared for. I didn't mention that there was a turbo timer that unlocked the doors after it had finished counting down, the boot lock cover was broken off, etc, etc.
Anyway, seeing as there are loads of Jap importers here in NZ, I'm going to import a fresh one myself
The car has been selected, just got to see if I'm outbid now... :fingerscrossed:
Yup, I emmigrated over here from the UK a few months ago, loving it so far It's Jap car nirvana too, I'd guess about 50% of cars on the road are Jap imports, with the rest being either big Fords or Holdens. Skylines are fairly common, plenty of families have 4 door 2 litre models as runarounds, so it would be rude not to try one.
It's Jap car nirvana too, I'd guess about 50% of cars on the road are Jap imports, with the rest being either big Fords or Holdens. Skylines are fairly common, plenty of families have 4 door 2 litre models as runarounds, so it would be rude not to try one. 
Well, I'm now oficially a 'liner owner
I went n/a in the end (sorry to disappoint all you boosty boys), as a local dealer had just imported a very tidy GTS25 coupe and I couldn't resist. I was looking for a semi-sensible car anyway
It's a 96 facelift model in silver with a rare (for NZ) 5-speed manual, totally standard apart from an upgraded stereo. It drove very well, nice and responsive and not as slow as I was expecting it to be. Got the AA to do a full inspection including compression tests, etc. and it all looks good. I'm picking it up later and I'm dead chuffed. Photos to follow later...
I went n/a in the end (sorry to disappoint all you boosty boys), as a local dealer had just imported a very tidy GTS25 coupe and I couldn't resist. I was looking for a semi-sensible car anyway
It's a 96 facelift model in silver with a rare (for NZ) 5-speed manual, totally standard apart from an upgraded stereo. It drove very well, nice and responsive and not as slow as I was expecting it to be. Got the AA to do a full inspection including compression tests, etc. and it all looks good. I'm picking it up later and I'm dead chuffed.
Photos to follow later... You need pics....I got pics....
First impressions:
Adjustable width seats - why doesn't every car have these?
The engine is crisp and very responsive, and it pulls well right through the rev range. Power is certainly "sufficient" - for now.
Steering is good, nice and light when parking, and well weighted on the move. There's reasonable feedback through the wheel, although not as much as on my old 944.
The handling feels good on the twisty stuff as you would expect, although I haven't been pushing anywhere near the limits.
All in all, I'm very pleased!
First impressions:
Adjustable width seats - why doesn't every car have these?
The engine is crisp and very responsive, and it pulls well right through the rev range. Power is certainly "sufficient" - for now.
Steering is good, nice and light when parking, and well weighted on the move. There's reasonable feedback through the wheel, although not as much as on my old 944.
The handling feels good on the twisty stuff as you would expect, although I haven't been pushing anywhere near the limits.
All in all, I'm very pleased!
Cheers guys! Funny you should mention hobbits, Peter Jackson's studios are about half a mile from where the seaside pics were taken!
I see what you mean about the bonnet lip, it does look a bit different in that photo...I'll have to have a closer look in daylight. If it's modded, it's damn well done, as I certainly didn't notice! Did Nissan change the bonnet as part of the facelift?
It's not an M spec bumper though, they're two-piece items with the extra bit stuck onto the 'standard' bumper. I know because the other car I looked at had one, and it was half hanging off!!
It does need some side skirts though to balance it out; the front is all aggression and the rest is a bit 'normal' And bigger wheels. And lowered a bit. And maybe a GTR spoiler. Oh bugger, this could start getting expensive...
I think the cat will be the first thing to go though - not a legal requirement in NZ
I see what you mean about the bonnet lip, it does look a bit different in that photo...I'll have to have a closer look in daylight. If it's modded, it's damn well done, as I certainly didn't notice! Did Nissan change the bonnet as part of the facelift?
It's not an M spec bumper though, they're two-piece items with the extra bit stuck onto the 'standard' bumper. I know because the other car I looked at had one, and it was half hanging off!!
It does need some side skirts though to balance it out; the front is all aggression and the rest is a bit 'normal'
And bigger wheels. And lowered a bit. And maybe a GTR spoiler. Oh bugger, this could start getting expensive... I think the cat will be the first thing to go though - not a legal requirement in NZ
shadowninja said:
hehe
it gets scary once you start modding
why not do a turbo conversion then,you know it makes sense
Pucker up for your bank manager
Is that a standard double rear muffler with the control wire contraption thingy,for closing off one of the pipes? A strange device-never yet seen a working one!
>> Edited by tuttle on Friday 20th May 08:32
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