Discussion
Hey folks, am putting a holding deposit down on one of these later today. Anything in particular I should look for when I go up North to check it out over the weekend?
Looking at it's MOT history it's all been good for the last 5 years with the previous fail in 2012 for tyre wear.
It's had it's timing belt changed but I've agreed with them that they'd replace the belt and water pump again as part of the pre-sale service and MOT work so that should be good for another 50k or so (It's currently on c72k)
I hear suspension at the rear needs to be checked, it doesn't look like there's any obvious rust but will need to get below it to check out, anything else I should watch for?
Cheers in advance
Phil
Looking at it's MOT history it's all been good for the last 5 years with the previous fail in 2012 for tyre wear.
It's had it's timing belt changed but I've agreed with them that they'd replace the belt and water pump again as part of the pre-sale service and MOT work so that should be good for another 50k or so (It's currently on c72k)
I hear suspension at the rear needs to be checked, it doesn't look like there's any obvious rust but will need to get below it to check out, anything else I should watch for?
Cheers in advance
Phil
The biggest issue with the Impreza is always the headgasket.
Get it out and up to temperature on the test drive, rag the life out of it, I mean get it up to jail speeds with your foot nailed to the floor. Pull in soon after and check the coolant, any bubbles in it and the headgasket is in need of replacement. Common signs such as smoke in the exhaust, soup-like stuff on the caps aren't always present. Check its history for parts of the coolant system being replaced, radiators etc, this could be covering up a previous headgasket issue. Check the boot floor for damp as well, light seals can sometimes let in water.
Other than that they're pretty reliable, it's just one big issue that lets them down.
Get it out and up to temperature on the test drive, rag the life out of it, I mean get it up to jail speeds with your foot nailed to the floor. Pull in soon after and check the coolant, any bubbles in it and the headgasket is in need of replacement. Common signs such as smoke in the exhaust, soup-like stuff on the caps aren't always present. Check its history for parts of the coolant system being replaced, radiators etc, this could be covering up a previous headgasket issue. Check the boot floor for damp as well, light seals can sometimes let in water.
Other than that they're pretty reliable, it's just one big issue that lets them down.
The gb270 is the later 2.5. The general consensus is that piston ringlands are the massive week spot. Unless it's in the process of failing, it's not going to show up.
Rear suspension will stick a bit at low speeds if the lubrication has all gone. It's not a biggy to refresh the suspension. I put older type shocks on mine which last far longer.
Wagons should've been recalled for rust on front arms. Newer cars were probably treated rather than replaced.
Rear suspension will stick a bit at low speeds if the lubrication has all gone. It's not a biggy to refresh the suspension. I put older type shocks on mine which last far longer.
Wagons should've been recalled for rust on front arms. Newer cars were probably treated rather than replaced.
Hey folks, I think I'm going to need a new clutch on the car but I just want to check behavior...
In essence, the bite point is all the way near the top of the pedal travel (furthest from the floor) I had understood that a failing clutch would mean it would bite near the floor. Am I being dumb? It was really struggling to engage today and felt like it needed more revs to get it engaged. The pedal has always been stiff but I just assumed "TADTS" however I've read a couple of folks say theirs was nice and light (lighter than a Golf for example).
Can anyone suggest what's needed? I have a local garage but he's a bit pricey and not an expert but am tempted to get him to replace the clutch just so I can be sure it won't fail on me and then get it properly serviced and sort suspension etc at a specialist
Cheers in advance
In essence, the bite point is all the way near the top of the pedal travel (furthest from the floor) I had understood that a failing clutch would mean it would bite near the floor. Am I being dumb? It was really struggling to engage today and felt like it needed more revs to get it engaged. The pedal has always been stiff but I just assumed "TADTS" however I've read a couple of folks say theirs was nice and light (lighter than a Golf for example).
Can anyone suggest what's needed? I have a local garage but he's a bit pricey and not an expert but am tempted to get him to replace the clutch just so I can be sure it won't fail on me and then get it properly serviced and sort suspension etc at a specialist
Cheers in advance
Ah I forgot to update. I took it down to a Surrey Subaru chap (who I must say did a superb job)
Clutch was knackered (Couldn't even drive it onto the flat bed in the end. the face was done but also the clucth fork was knackered (see below) which wasn't helping matters at all (and explained the heaviness and reluctance to shift)
He also replaced a couple of worn seals and belts that were drying and cracking and one of the CV boots was badly attached so he refitted that and gave it a thorough servicing.
I'm delighted with what he's done so far, the clutch is now "normal" and it's running a lot smoother with the general overhaul, spark-plugs, oil etc etc
I'm taking it back to him and leaving it there for a couple of weeks to get him to replace the shocks and brakes (possibly springs as well if I'm feeling flush!)
I can't wait tog et it back after that - it's already feeling great and with new shocks, brakes, alignment a (and wheel refurb) it'll be a great wee thing!
One thing I loved about the chap was he literally wrote everything he'd done on the car -I got a 5 page report listing every action and step along with parts checked, settings etc etc, very thorough and a delight to deal with
Clutch was knackered (Couldn't even drive it onto the flat bed in the end. the face was done but also the clucth fork was knackered (see below) which wasn't helping matters at all (and explained the heaviness and reluctance to shift)
He also replaced a couple of worn seals and belts that were drying and cracking and one of the CV boots was badly attached so he refitted that and gave it a thorough servicing.
I'm delighted with what he's done so far, the clutch is now "normal" and it's running a lot smoother with the general overhaul, spark-plugs, oil etc etc
I'm taking it back to him and leaving it there for a couple of weeks to get him to replace the shocks and brakes (possibly springs as well if I'm feeling flush!)
I can't wait tog et it back after that - it's already feeling great and with new shocks, brakes, alignment a (and wheel refurb) it'll be a great wee thing!
One thing I loved about the chap was he literally wrote everything he'd done on the car -I got a 5 page report listing every action and step along with parts checked, settings etc etc, very thorough and a delight to deal with
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