Major Celica Engine Problem
Discussion
Hi All
I’m supposed to be selling my brothers Celica (1990 H post 90 model) whilst he is out of the country, but there is one slight problem, it’s died. It just totally stopped whilst being driven, the engine died completely. After that it did turn over, but wouldn’t start, now it just turns over and doesn’t seem like its ever going to start.
It is currently in the garage, but they seem to be giving me the run around and seem unable to fit it. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas? I’m nearly at the stage of buying a new engine for it, which just seems madness as it was running fine before hand.
I’m supposed to be selling my brothers Celica (1990 H post 90 model) whilst he is out of the country, but there is one slight problem, it’s died. It just totally stopped whilst being driven, the engine died completely. After that it did turn over, but wouldn’t start, now it just turns over and doesn’t seem like its ever going to start.
It is currently in the garage, but they seem to be giving me the run around and seem unable to fit it. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas? I’m nearly at the stage of buying a new engine for it, which just seems madness as it was running fine before hand.
Ok it could be a broken cambelt, distrubutor pulser or the ignitor or this problem below.
Take a look at the cam cover end of the engine and specifically the alternator drivebelt where it crosses the cam cover.
Look to see if theres any rubbing thru of the cambelt cover due to it not being bolted down correctly, ie; is it grooved at all?
The reason ask you to do that is because part of the wiring loom runs behind it that controls the igniter signal.
The belt running across it only has to rub thru the cambelt cover and the wire's insulation and the ignitor signal gets interrupted.
Happened to me going to work one day and this was the problem.
Failing that, when you get it back home, get under the bonnet and find the diagnostic port, its got the word "DIAG" on the top.
Open the cover and look inside the lid.
There will be a little diagram of the pin layout.
Find the two terminals marked "TE1" and "E1".
Put a small jumper wire across these 2 terminals and go switch the ignition "ON" ONLY, dont start it.
As soon as the ignition is on, look at the engine diagnostic light (looks like an engine) and look at the sequence of flashes.
If theres NO problem recorded itll flash steadily on off with both on's and off's being the same time length.
If there IS a problem, itll give a series of flashes like 1 then 2 flashes etc.
Write em down and let it go thru the sequence a couple of times so you know whats its telling you.
Then post em up here and ill take a look in the Autodata for the codes and what the registered fault is.
Ps, dont forget to remove the jumper wire before attempting to crank it.
HTH.
Take a look at the cam cover end of the engine and specifically the alternator drivebelt where it crosses the cam cover.
Look to see if theres any rubbing thru of the cambelt cover due to it not being bolted down correctly, ie; is it grooved at all?
The reason ask you to do that is because part of the wiring loom runs behind it that controls the igniter signal.
The belt running across it only has to rub thru the cambelt cover and the wire's insulation and the ignitor signal gets interrupted.
Happened to me going to work one day and this was the problem.
Failing that, when you get it back home, get under the bonnet and find the diagnostic port, its got the word "DIAG" on the top.
Open the cover and look inside the lid.
There will be a little diagram of the pin layout.
Find the two terminals marked "TE1" and "E1".
Put a small jumper wire across these 2 terminals and go switch the ignition "ON" ONLY, dont start it.
As soon as the ignition is on, look at the engine diagnostic light (looks like an engine) and look at the sequence of flashes.
If theres NO problem recorded itll flash steadily on off with both on's and off's being the same time length.
If there IS a problem, itll give a series of flashes like 1 then 2 flashes etc.
Write em down and let it go thru the sequence a couple of times so you know whats its telling you.
Then post em up here and ill take a look in the Autodata for the codes and what the registered fault is.
Ps, dont forget to remove the jumper wire before attempting to crank it.
HTH.
Just a quickie,have a check of your air-flow-meter(use a voltmeter if your ecu doesn't have warning light).I've had these fail on several Jap cars(no real reason or visible prob),check the contact pins too.
Even a bad connection here can stop your engine dead.
Maybe its something else,but it's only quick to check.
Good luck.
>> Edited by tuttle on Tuesday 19th April 21:07
Even a bad connection here can stop your engine dead.
Maybe its something else,but it's only quick to check.
Good luck.
>> Edited by tuttle on Tuesday 19th April 21:07
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