Buying Guide: Evo VIII / IX
Discussion
I'm in the market for an Evo after some marginal creep on the budget for some fun next year (read:doubling). Man maths makes this work fantastically well, so the hunt is on to get something in the pipeline around February/March time assuming nothing fantastic pops it's head up beforehand.
With this in mind, I'm starting from a clean slate and have little to no idea what I should be looking for when purchasing despite obvious points. Does anyone have a fool proof guide to purchasing and any first hand advice that would be helpful?
With this in mind, I'm starting from a clean slate and have little to no idea what I should be looking for when purchasing despite obvious points. Does anyone have a fool proof guide to purchasing and any first hand advice that would be helpful?
My main advice would be to buy a car as freshly imported as possible as they go very rusty underneath very easily, even low mileage ones.
For me the pick of the bunch is the 9 GT, only has the 5 speed box but the 5 speed has been proven to be much stronger if you ever want to push it over 500 bhp. Also has a mechanical LSD at the rear rather than the electronic one which is again stronger and more reliable. It means you have no 'Active Yaw Control' but to me the car seems to handle in a more predictable and natural manner without it even though technically you can corner slightly faster with AYC. The GT is essentially an RS model but still has electric windows and recaro seats etc.
For me the pick of the bunch is the 9 GT, only has the 5 speed box but the 5 speed has been proven to be much stronger if you ever want to push it over 500 bhp. Also has a mechanical LSD at the rear rather than the electronic one which is again stronger and more reliable. It means you have no 'Active Yaw Control' but to me the car seems to handle in a more predictable and natural manner without it even though technically you can corner slightly faster with AYC. The GT is essentially an RS model but still has electric windows and recaro seats etc.
Hi, long standing ( 14 years and counting ) Evo 8 owner. I would go for an MR 8 or preferably a 9 if you can stretch to it. Mine's an early '03 plate GSR, and the suspension was just too hard. It has the later Bilsteins from a 9 on now, and it's all the better for it. I paid £300 for low mileage used units 10 years ago.
AYC pump problems are pretty common, budget £600 for a rebuild. The telltale is 3 green lights on the AYC dashboard display. Mine has displayed this twice after 6 month winter layups, cured both times by taking a rubber hammer to the pump cover to dislodge the jammed AYC disc. Seems to have effected a permanent fix!
Brake judder on the original Brembos can be an issue. Aim to set the brakes on fire with a lot of hard stops from about 100mph to clear pad deposits, the discs don't generally warp. I cured mine with an AP kit, I didn't know about the pad deposit thing back then!
6 speed boxes are generally regarded as weaker than the 5 speed, 4th gear in particular can have a tantrum on a high torque, hard driven car. Mine's been fine.
Water can get into the electrics through the wheelarch splashguard, wipers and ignition lights will stay on with the key removed if this happens, the fusebox in the passenger footwell will need attention, as that's where the water ends up. Again, never happened to me.
Badly mapped or badly modified cars will cause problems which are potentially expensive, but the cars are generally mega-reliable if looked after. Mine's modified to about 380-400 brake, I fitted Evo 9 variable valve timing, turbo and ECU maybe 6 or 7 years ago with no subsequent issues. 400 brake and 400 lbs ft is about the limit for long term reliability. It'll like as not throw a rod with much more torque. 17 mpg is pretty normal. In my experience, the main dealers are a waste of time, a decent Indy is a better bet. The day to day running costs are high, however they're offset, in my opinion, by the generally outstanding long term reliability if looked after.
I've spent a fortune on mine, but it's the type of car that sucks you in. Mostly, the money I've spent is on routine maintenance ( inc. tyres, clutch, servicing, none of which is cheap ) and mods. The only out of ordinary expenses came when the car was 10 years old, when the heater matrix began to leak ( pita, dashboard out, £400 for a new matrix ), and a propshaft joint seal, easy fix, £80 for all required parts from the dealer.
Every petrolhead should own an Evo at some point, there's nothing quite like it. I've had a lot of ostensibly more desirable cars whilst in possession of this and they've all come and gone...the Evo stays. I'd only sell it to replace it with another.
AYC pump problems are pretty common, budget £600 for a rebuild. The telltale is 3 green lights on the AYC dashboard display. Mine has displayed this twice after 6 month winter layups, cured both times by taking a rubber hammer to the pump cover to dislodge the jammed AYC disc. Seems to have effected a permanent fix!
Brake judder on the original Brembos can be an issue. Aim to set the brakes on fire with a lot of hard stops from about 100mph to clear pad deposits, the discs don't generally warp. I cured mine with an AP kit, I didn't know about the pad deposit thing back then!
6 speed boxes are generally regarded as weaker than the 5 speed, 4th gear in particular can have a tantrum on a high torque, hard driven car. Mine's been fine.
Water can get into the electrics through the wheelarch splashguard, wipers and ignition lights will stay on with the key removed if this happens, the fusebox in the passenger footwell will need attention, as that's where the water ends up. Again, never happened to me.
Badly mapped or badly modified cars will cause problems which are potentially expensive, but the cars are generally mega-reliable if looked after. Mine's modified to about 380-400 brake, I fitted Evo 9 variable valve timing, turbo and ECU maybe 6 or 7 years ago with no subsequent issues. 400 brake and 400 lbs ft is about the limit for long term reliability. It'll like as not throw a rod with much more torque. 17 mpg is pretty normal. In my experience, the main dealers are a waste of time, a decent Indy is a better bet. The day to day running costs are high, however they're offset, in my opinion, by the generally outstanding long term reliability if looked after.
I've spent a fortune on mine, but it's the type of car that sucks you in. Mostly, the money I've spent is on routine maintenance ( inc. tyres, clutch, servicing, none of which is cheap ) and mods. The only out of ordinary expenses came when the car was 10 years old, when the heater matrix began to leak ( pita, dashboard out, £400 for a new matrix ), and a propshaft joint seal, easy fix, £80 for all required parts from the dealer.
Every petrolhead should own an Evo at some point, there's nothing quite like it. I've had a lot of ostensibly more desirable cars whilst in possession of this and they've all come and gone...the Evo stays. I'd only sell it to replace it with another.
Edited by Heaveho on Wednesday 14th December 00:26
Edited by Heaveho on Wednesday 14th December 00:58
Thanks for the responses, seems like a few key points to look out for but other than that pretty reliable overall. I'm interested in the Evo 8 MR, but primarily looking for a model with a decent output of BHP in it's standard form.
What would be your attitude towards a modified car? Would you look to buy private, and in what condition (bolt-on modifications, highly modified or stock)? I think it's fair to expect, and budget for, some work being done as they don't strike me as the type of car that has an easy life.
Finally, for now, what's the going rate for a decent example? I'm seeing prices between £10 - £16k, in various states of modification.
What would be your attitude towards a modified car? Would you look to buy private, and in what condition (bolt-on modifications, highly modified or stock)? I think it's fair to expect, and budget for, some work being done as they don't strike me as the type of car that has an easy life.
Finally, for now, what's the going rate for a decent example? I'm seeing prices between £10 - £16k, in various states of modification.
An 8 MR 340 will generally make more than 340 as standard.....it'll feel quick. Bolt-ons and a remap from a reputable specialist will see 380 brake and about the same torque reliably and reasonably cheaply. You don't need to go mad with the bolt-ons.......a 3 port boost solenoid, Walbro fuel pump, HKS Superdrager exhaust, decat and panel filter will get you there or thereabouts. I faffed about with a ported exhaust manifold and turbo elbow, and it probably cost me torque, in all honesty. Likewise, don't waste money on aftermarket intercoolers at this level, the standard one is very good and capable of doing it's job well at more than 400 brake.
If you can find one already modified to this level, with receipts to show what's been done, so much the better. I wouldn't buy a high horsepower car, but I like reliable cars, and obviously the more stressed they are, potentially the more trouble they'll be. If I had 16k to spend, I'd want a 9. Corrosion is the enemy with these cars now, they tend to not be well protected from the elements, so if it's been a daily driver most of it's life, it'll need a good look underneath.
If you can find one already modified to this level, with receipts to show what's been done, so much the better. I wouldn't buy a high horsepower car, but I like reliable cars, and obviously the more stressed they are, potentially the more trouble they'll be. If I had 16k to spend, I'd want a 9. Corrosion is the enemy with these cars now, they tend to not be well protected from the elements, so if it's been a daily driver most of it's life, it'll need a good look underneath.
Edited by Heaveho on Thursday 15th December 00:10
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