R32 GTR track car
Discussion
I'm looking to get an R32 GTR as a track day car with the ability to drive to and from the tracks. Spa and Ring will be as far as it goes but travelling from West Wales that's a fair way!
Looking for it to be reliable so 400whp will be the target.
Just wondering how ruinous this will be? What sort of prices am I looking for annual servicing taking into account an oil change after every track day? I hope to do about 10 days per year.
Looking for it to be reliable so 400whp will be the target.
Just wondering how ruinous this will be? What sort of prices am I looking for annual servicing taking into account an oil change after every track day? I hope to do about 10 days per year.
A good place to start is by asking the same question on www.gtroc.org
Lots of knowledgeable guys on there that track their Skylines regularly.
Lots of knowledgeable guys on there that track their Skylines regularly.
Babw said:
Is an R33 GTR better or worse than an R32 GTR for track duties?
There seems to be more R33's with a track spec for sale than R32's at the moment, I have no interest in doing the mods myself so makes sense to buy one that's already prepared.
When I was shopping for 1, a lot of R33 GTR owners were selling them and going for tuned up R32 GTRs. I think it helps that the R32s are a bit lighter.There seems to be more R33's with a track spec for sale than R32's at the moment, I have no interest in doing the mods myself so makes sense to buy one that's already prepared.
As for buying a pre-modded one, the only issue is that the previous owner who had the work done had cut corners to save money.
My old GTR had been tuned in Japan and had such a long list that when I went to get it insured I just emailed the insurance company as it was too much hassle to list the mods done over the phone!
Re the R32 vs R33 element: I own an R32 GTR, which I track, however I believe the 33 would likely be the better starting point.
- They (33) have a more advanced rear diff and a quicker acting ATTESSA setup.
- They have a lower drag coefficient (and I believe a lower coefficient of lift over the front axle).
- They have a stiffer chassis.
- They start with larger alloys and better brakes, although that's probably less of a concern for you if you're looking for modded.
If you're staying around 440hp (crank?) the car should be solid. Make sure the ceramic turbines have been changed for steel units (The ceramics spool beautifully but will eventually fail with a high risk of chewing your pistons/bores.)
- They (33) have a more advanced rear diff and a quicker acting ATTESSA setup.
- They have a lower drag coefficient (and I believe a lower coefficient of lift over the front axle).
- They have a stiffer chassis.
- They start with larger alloys and better brakes, although that's probably less of a concern for you if you're looking for modded.
If you're staying around 440hp (crank?) the car should be solid. Make sure the ceramic turbines have been changed for steel units (The ceramics spool beautifully but will eventually fail with a high risk of chewing your pistons/bores.)
Edited by CabbageMS on Tuesday 12th January 14:08
CabbageMS said:
Re the R32 vs R33 element: I own an R32 GTR, which I track, however I believe the 33 would likely be the better starting point.
- They (33) have a more advanced rear diff and a quicker acting ATTESSA setup.
- They have a lower drag coefficient (and I believe a lower coefficient of lift over the front axle).
- They have a stiffer chassis.
- They start with larger alloys and better brakes, although that's probably less of a concern for you if you're looking for modded.
If you're staying around 440hp (crank?) the car should be solid. Make sure the ceramic turbines have been changed for steel units (The ceramics spool beautifully but will eventually fail with a high risk of chewing your pistons/bores.)
How many trackdays are you getting out of a set of tyres and brakes? Which tyres and brakes are you using also?- They (33) have a more advanced rear diff and a quicker acting ATTESSA setup.
- They have a lower drag coefficient (and I believe a lower coefficient of lift over the front axle).
- They have a stiffer chassis.
- They start with larger alloys and better brakes, although that's probably less of a concern for you if you're looking for modded.
If you're staying around 440hp (crank?) the car should be solid. Make sure the ceramic turbines have been changed for steel units (The ceramics spool beautifully but will eventually fail with a high risk of chewing your pistons/bores.)
Edited by CabbageMS on Tuesday 12th January 14:08
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