2008 Mazda 2 - Immobiliser issue?
Discussion
Hi there my 2008 Mazda 2 currently will not start. I am new to this forum so any help would be greatly appreciated.
when i turn the key to start the engine the immobiliser light flashes and the engine does not start. you can hear the fuel pump kick in but thats it.
I have tried plugging a generic OBD2 machine in and it comes up with no fault codes. Hoping and praying that is not going to be an expensive fix and willing to try anything!
Thank you in advance!!
Becky
when i turn the key to start the engine the immobiliser light flashes and the engine does not start. you can hear the fuel pump kick in but thats it.
I have tried plugging a generic OBD2 machine in and it comes up with no fault codes. Hoping and praying that is not going to be an expensive fix and willing to try anything!
Thank you in advance!!
Becky
Okay update here - auto electrician came out today and confirmed no issue with key.
-checked all fuses all fine..
-checked battery and it fluctuates when its connected but when i disconnected it then it stopped fluctuating and stayed at a constant 12.5?! any ideas? could this be related to y issue?
Thanks!
-checked all fuses all fine..
-checked battery and it fluctuates when its connected but when i disconnected it then it stopped fluctuating and stayed at a constant 12.5?! any ideas? could this be related to y issue?
Thanks!
becky221093 said:
Okay update here - auto electrician came out today and confirmed no issue with key.
-checked all fuses all fine..
-checked battery and it fluctuates when its connected but when i disconnected it then it stopped fluctuating and stayed at a constant 12.5?! any ideas? could this be related to y issue?
Thanks!
Connected with the ignition on, ignition on and engine running, or with ignition off?-checked all fuses all fine..
-checked battery and it fluctuates when its connected but when i disconnected it then it stopped fluctuating and stayed at a constant 12.5?! any ideas? could this be related to y issue?
Thanks!
becky221093 said:
connected with the ignition on makes it fluctuates loads! Cannot try with engine on as it won't start
yeah, sorry.... Engine on is a pointless query in hindsight Which position does it start fluctuating? Does it happen with the key in position 1 (accessories) or position 2 (ign 1 and ign 2 circuits enabled), or both?
feef said:
yeah, sorry.... Engine on is a pointless query in hindsight
Which position does it start fluctuating? Does it happen with the key in position 1 (accessories) or position 2 (ign 1 and ign 2 circuits enabled), or both?
Thats a very good point, i didn't know to check both so only checked at position 2! it was fluctuating very fast from 1-4 ishWhich position does it start fluctuating? Does it happen with the key in position 1 (accessories) or position 2 (ign 1 and ign 2 circuits enabled), or both?
becky221093 said:
feef said:
yeah, sorry.... Engine on is a pointless query in hindsight
Which position does it start fluctuating? Does it happen with the key in position 1 (accessories) or position 2 (ign 1 and ign 2 circuits enabled), or both?
Thats a very good point, i didn't know to check both so only checked at position 2! it was fluctuating very fast from 1-4 ishWhich position does it start fluctuating? Does it happen with the key in position 1 (accessories) or position 2 (ign 1 and ign 2 circuits enabled), or both?
Nope not that i could hear the only noise was the immobiliser alarm...
Just seems weird that it would fluctuate, excuse my technical knowledge! i put the multimeter on my other car while it was in position 2 just to make sure i was doing it right and that stayed constant!
Thanks again
Just seems weird that it would fluctuate, excuse my technical knowledge! i put the multimeter on my other car while it was in position 2 just to make sure i was doing it right and that stayed constant!
Thanks again
Stupid question time, but has the car battery been replaced recently? It COULD be on the way out, or have a bad cell. That could show up as 12v when there's no load on it, but do some odd things when the ignition is on, especially if it can't give enough oomph to maintain a component in operative state, so could be flicking on/off and so affecting the voltage at the same time
feef said:
Stupid question time, but has the car battery been replaced recently? It COULD be on the way out, or have a bad cell. That could show up as 12v when there's no load on it, but do some odd things when the ignition is on, especially if it can't give enough oomph to maintain a component in operative state, so could be flicking on/off and so affecting the voltage at the same time
Nope not been replaced in a while but i have a spare somewhere i will put in on charge and try that tomorrow! Could this battery issue be affecting the immobiliser or would this be a separate issue?Thanks for all your replies feef!
becky221093 said:
feef said:
Stupid question time, but has the car battery been replaced recently? It COULD be on the way out, or have a bad cell. That could show up as 12v when there's no load on it, but do some odd things when the ignition is on, especially if it can't give enough oomph to maintain a component in operative state, so could be flicking on/off and so affecting the voltage at the same time
Nope not been replaced in a while but i have a spare somewhere i will put in on charge and try that tomorrow! Could this battery issue be affecting the immobiliser or would this be a separate issue?Thanks for all your replies feef!
It's an odd one, to be fair, so best bet is to start with the obvious things and work from there.
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