There must be a JDM car thats perfect for sprinting!
Discussion
I've done quite a bit of research on various sites but its often difficult to get past the "with a turbo that is well mint innit" posts on some forums.
I want to compete in the under 2 litre road going class at sprints and hillcilmbs. I already compete and have spent a lot of time thinking about the perfect car. I suspect it will have most of the following:
Lightish weight (probably under 1000kg, ideally towards 850). This is the standard weight, not once stripped.
Forced induction with capacity less than 1428cc (this allows forced induction cars to compete with 2000cc normally aspirated cars)
If not forced induction as standard then it is fairly easily added – maybe with well known and tried and tested kits or using OEM parts from somewhere else in the range. I don’t really want to be doing the R&D (been there before).
Internals are free but you must use the original block and head. If another model’s engine is very similar that is not good enough. Must be exactly the same. So we can’t “drop in a xxx engine” even if the two engines are very close. We could put all the internals from the xxx engine into the standard block though.
Tough enough to take the boost and be reliable (with appropriate pistons if required).
Transmission up to it without major mods (ok if it wears quickly as 100 miles is a big season, not ok if it keeps breaking driveshafts and differentials as my old car did.)
Capable of over 200bhp/tonne. So a 900kg car would need close to 200bhp (more if possible)
Ideally RWD or 4WD to improve traction but FWD would be ok and is probably more realistic.
Your ideas please…
Thanks
I want to compete in the under 2 litre road going class at sprints and hillcilmbs. I already compete and have spent a lot of time thinking about the perfect car. I suspect it will have most of the following:
Lightish weight (probably under 1000kg, ideally towards 850). This is the standard weight, not once stripped.
Forced induction with capacity less than 1428cc (this allows forced induction cars to compete with 2000cc normally aspirated cars)
If not forced induction as standard then it is fairly easily added – maybe with well known and tried and tested kits or using OEM parts from somewhere else in the range. I don’t really want to be doing the R&D (been there before).
Internals are free but you must use the original block and head. If another model’s engine is very similar that is not good enough. Must be exactly the same. So we can’t “drop in a xxx engine” even if the two engines are very close. We could put all the internals from the xxx engine into the standard block though.
Tough enough to take the boost and be reliable (with appropriate pistons if required).
Transmission up to it without major mods (ok if it wears quickly as 100 miles is a big season, not ok if it keeps breaking driveshafts and differentials as my old car did.)
Capable of over 200bhp/tonne. So a 900kg car would need close to 200bhp (more if possible)
Ideally RWD or 4WD to improve traction but FWD would be ok and is probably more realistic.
Your ideas please…
Thanks
There's a Rotrex Supercharger kit available for the Suzuki Ignis Sport (1498cc)?
I think the Daihatsu YRV or Storia X4 might also qualify, but good luck finding either.
How is Rotary classified? RX7 has a swept volume of 1.3L.
Most of the small turbocharged cars like the Suzuki Kei are 660cc.
I think the Daihatsu YRV or Storia X4 might also qualify, but good luck finding either.
How is Rotary classified? RX7 has a swept volume of 1.3L.
Most of the small turbocharged cars like the Suzuki Kei are 660cc.
Edited by cianha on Wednesday 28th May 10:13
chrisgtx said:
Mitsubishi colt cyborg were hellish good cars,rare though.
Some one mentioned the wee Mitsi's?Witch one
CA4A Gen1 MIVEC cyborg r/rs
CJ4A Gen2 Cyborg RS MIVEC, Desigened for clubsports and sprintinig basicly, can also get non RS is this model
But the perfect car would be the original
Excuse the mirrors plz
1600cc DOHC TURBO, make 200bhp with abit more boost and an exhausts system, an awesome car easily the quickest FWD I've driven(only a handful in Europe) proton also sold them and dodge and hyundia under different names in different countries, Rarer then rocking horse poo though, but they are amazing quick, engine is v free revving,
Ep82/91 starlet both basicly the same car with afew differences abs being one, L.S.D. was a standard option, with it there fairly potent, and can do abit over 200bhp on standard internals depending,
Both Mazda 323T models, 1.6/1.8 DOHC turbo 4WD would be quite good too was only ever in a 1.8 an it was nearly like a gti-r pursar with less power
Hi,
I did exactly what you are planning to do (Sprints and Hill Climbs). I won the South West Sprint championship and did very well at Hill Climbs . The car I chose was a SW20 MK2 MR2 (Naturally Aspirated).
Modifications wise I went for stiffer ARB's, Coilover suspension, uprated brake pads (Carbotech) and an LSD gearbox.
Essentially a Mid engined RWD car handles better than a FWD car. You can have all the power in the world but unless you are gripping and moving forwards (rather than spinning the wheels up) you aren't going to do well.
Tyres are also a big factor (and your limited to what ones to use) and the best ones I found were the Toyo R88 or the Khumo Ecsta's.
I did exactly what you are planning to do (Sprints and Hill Climbs). I won the South West Sprint championship and did very well at Hill Climbs . The car I chose was a SW20 MK2 MR2 (Naturally Aspirated).
Modifications wise I went for stiffer ARB's, Coilover suspension, uprated brake pads (Carbotech) and an LSD gearbox.
Essentially a Mid engined RWD car handles better than a FWD car. You can have all the power in the world but unless you are gripping and moving forwards (rather than spinning the wheels up) you aren't going to do well.
Tyres are also a big factor (and your limited to what ones to use) and the best ones I found were the Toyo R88 or the Khumo Ecsta's.
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