Mk2 MR2 advice
Discussion
Toying with the idea of getting a T-bar Mk2. Have previously had a couple of Mk1s but want something with a bit more ooomph, now I'm without a TVR.
Any tips? Budget is lowish so was considering something like a 100K mile example, ideally with a fresh cambelt.
Did the many revisions change the car a great deal? I've see a R5 UK car online for sale at the mo.. no idea whats different about this, compared to earlier cars. Do the changes marry up to the revision listed here?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_mr2
Oh one more question - are all turbos imports? Never owned a Turbo car & might be time to fix that.
Any tips? Budget is lowish so was considering something like a 100K mile example, ideally with a fresh cambelt.
Did the many revisions change the car a great deal? I've see a R5 UK car online for sale at the mo.. no idea whats different about this, compared to earlier cars. Do the changes marry up to the revision listed here?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_mr2
Oh one more question - are all turbos imports? Never owned a Turbo car & might be time to fix that.
Yes, turbos are imports. Unless you find a UK one with an engine conversion.
As for Rev1-5 this is a reasonable guide
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&a...
Oh and if you're looking at t-bars, do check that it doesn't leak.
As for Rev1-5 this is a reasonable guide
http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&a...
Oh and if you're looking at t-bars, do check that it doesn't leak.
Have owned a Rev 2 MR2 Turbo & Chimaera. If you're after a Mk2 get a turbo; you'll only find the N/A underpowered as you've owned several TVRs.
They're great cars. Excellent driving position, well-made, decent steering & brakes, short-throw gearchange. You've managed not to spin either of your Griffiths, so will have no problem with an MR2T.
All Turbos are imports. Turbo Rev 3 onwards revised engine & turbo, more power as standard, more tuning potential. Watch for hesitation/misfires under load. Can be plugs, dizzy caps, rotor arms. Turbos are very sensitive to ignition components. Also beware of low boost/overheating. The fitted boost gauge should go all the way to the '+' when at full-throttle and load. Head-gasket failure is quite common. Mine ended-up with a cracked cylinder wall, not unheard of, symptoms similar to HGF. They're great GT cars, though.
If you want a purer, more agile handler with less chassis inertia and better throttle response then get a Mk3. It's slower in a straight line but more tactile. I drive mine for fun just as often as the TVR.
They're great cars. Excellent driving position, well-made, decent steering & brakes, short-throw gearchange. You've managed not to spin either of your Griffiths, so will have no problem with an MR2T.
All Turbos are imports. Turbo Rev 3 onwards revised engine & turbo, more power as standard, more tuning potential. Watch for hesitation/misfires under load. Can be plugs, dizzy caps, rotor arms. Turbos are very sensitive to ignition components. Also beware of low boost/overheating. The fitted boost gauge should go all the way to the '+' when at full-throttle and load. Head-gasket failure is quite common. Mine ended-up with a cracked cylinder wall, not unheard of, symptoms similar to HGF. They're great GT cars, though.
If you want a purer, more agile handler with less chassis inertia and better throttle response then get a Mk3. It's slower in a straight line but more tactile. I drive mine for fun just as often as the TVR.
EdT said:
There is - and dont take this the wrong way - a slight issue for me & the mk3. Dont doubt it's a good drive, but it's the same reason an MX5 woulntd push my buttons. I'm an ex-Griffith owner after all (ie chest wig, medallion..)
I agree with you, but I just didn't care in the end...james_gt3rs said:
If you liked the mk1, you'll love the mk3. I've never driven a mk2, but most people say they aren't as good handling as the others.
The Mk2 is far from a bad handling car, but they just aren't as agile as the Mk1 and Mk3. It's more like a small GT car by comparision, and is surprisingly refined and comfortable for long distances.hi mate, i got a set of yellow blistiens , poly bushed all the suspension componets, new ball-joints, track rod ends and some pirelli p0 tyres all round and the difference is night and day , used to feel wooly , now its tight....like tiger, ha and yes there are some modern coilovers available put expect to fork out!
EdT said:
I'm a lazy sod with two young kids & b*gger all spare time.. can you summarise or point me to a link pls?
Basically, look for staggered set ups with decent tyres. Standard sizes are 15x6 front and 15x7 rear. Check here when you have time:http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/...
I got caught out when buying mine as the wheels were completely wrong and the car has suffered for it.
clarkson22 said:
hi mate, i got a set of yellow blistiens , poly bushed all the suspension componets, new ball-joints, track rod ends and some pirelli p0 tyres all round and the difference is night and day , used to feel wooly , now its tight....like tiger, ha and yes there are some modern coilovers available put expect to fork out!
When my suspension needed a refresh I found that coilovers would actually cost less than a set of yellow Bilsteins + springs + top mounts. Added to which the damping force, camber angle, and ride height are all adjustable. Win-win.Mr2Mike said:
Red Devil said:
Added to which the damping force, camber angle, and ride height are all adjustable. Win-win.
A large number of adjustments to get wrong unless professionally set up 
danjama said:
Basically, look for staggered set ups with decent tyres. Standard sizes are 15x6 front and 15x7 rear. Check here when you have time:
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/...
I got caught out when buying mine as the wheels were completely wrong and the car has suffered for it.
GREAT resource that sitehttp://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledge-base/...
I got caught out when buying mine as the wheels were completely wrong and the car has suffered for it.
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