The Dreaded DB9 Engine Tick!

[paulrog1]

I was hoping I would never post this but unfortunately my 2004 DB9 has developed the dreaded DB9 tick.

I wasn’t even driving it, I ran the engine only on idle for around 45 mins whilst getting the transmission fluid upto temperature to do the final level check in January after a ZF gearbox service, that job went very well….and all of a sudden I heard a ticking sound from the engine, I’ve never heard the dreaded ticking sound in real life, but I was under the car at the time just checking for any gearbox leaks (which there wasn’t) and just heard this quite loud tick.

I was just in shock, got my phone to video it, after that I switched the engine off and watched a few videos on the ticking sound to make sure it was the tick!! Which it was....... A few days later I ran the car again only on idle and sure enough after around 45mins of running the tick started again!!

Absolutely fking gutted is a complete understatement, I’d really hate to sell her, being able to purchase the car in the first place in 2019 was an absolute huge achievement.

In my 20’s I removed/installed loads of engines, I really enjoy working on cars and I’ve enjoyed working on my DB9 for the 5 years of ownership, I’ve removed the rear subframe, replaced the radiator, (quite a difficult job) and loads of other stuff, the car is in very good condition not needing anything doing, apart from this now, so thinking I could keep the cost down maybe I could remove the engine in my garage at home, A really huge job I know!!

I honestly I feel so bloody crap at the mo. I’ve had a few hiccups recently with the car which I’ve sorted out and was looking forward to enjoying her again this year when the weather warms up.

So who here has had the same problem, what age is your car, mileage and what did you do to repair it and cost?

Thanks for reading.

Edited by paulrog1 on Thursday 8th February 21:26

[paulrog1]

Simpo Two said:

I guess it's a question of what makes the aluminium and steel expand at different rates the most. Logic would suggest you don't want to work the engine too much before it's warmed through.

Is mileage a factor?

Thanks for all of the messages and support guys.

I don't think mileage is a factor, my car has done 62K but PrAston DB9 only did 16K which is no mileage at all!! Regarding oil servicing and cold starts, I have changed the oil every year with Mobil 1 0-40 and always allowed the engine to warm up before putting my foot down.

No one knows 100% why these cars start to tick, seems to affect DB7V, NP Vanquish, early DB9, but not sure if it affects glass key 470bhp onwards V12's. There seems to be 3 items involved in this - 1 -Engine Block, 2 -Steel Liners 3 -Small end bush, so anyone of them could be causing this. I have recently seen photos of the outer face of liners with combustion material on them so that means the liner has slightly dropped causing combustion gases to go between the outer face of the liner and the parent bore. The question is is this the cause of the fault or another component failing first, who knows. So if engine rebuilders replace the liners and small end bush to updated items, hopefully this will cure the problem, if it comes back again in the future you would have to blame the block!!

As cost is always a big consideration the only way to get the car fixed is to remove it in my garage (if possible) using an engine hoist lifting it out of the engine bay instead of a couple of examples recently I've seen on youtube using a car ramp (which I don't have and I don't have the garage height) to separate the body from the chassis (like GB9 Garage). I can put the long engine in the back of my van and drive it to an engine rebuilders.

I'm hopefully going to talk to a couple of garages this week to get prices etc........

Fingers crossed.

[paulrog1]

Astontony said:

G Box and Paulfrog, what about the so called ingestion of catalytic debris that has been touted for the last few years supposedly caused by engine misfire. Is this just an urban myth, if so why does BR advertise this as a reason for removing the primary cats? It begs the question and as per your report GBox there seems to be a more scientific examination of the reason than assuming it is just cat ingestion.
I had a 2010 db9 and it was always back of mind. Also I remember that AML lengthened the dip stick and changed the markings on the stick on older models as they were giving the wrong level of oil being about - 1 ltr. This caused issues with cylinders at the rear of the engine.
I now have a 2014 Vanquish and still wonder if it's a possibility that it may happen although I have now done 44,000 miles and she still purrs like a kitten.

This ticking is either piston slap or small end bush, nothing to do with cat ingestion, my primary cats were removed years ago.

I've also known about the possible oil starvation and always checked the oil regulary, my PCV valves were replaced at the same time as plugs and coils a year ago.

My point is my engine was in tip top condition with no issues and it still developed the tick.

Cat ingestion does happen, listening to some stories from owners and garages, the one i heard recently a Gaydon Vanquish owner took his car with some friends around europe and really drove it hard, he serviced it just before going at works service, part the way through the tour the car started spitting out parts of cat, his friend in the car behind him noticed material coming out of his exhaust, he pulled the car over and told his mate the car was losing power. The car was recovered back to the uk and the engine was compression tested and one whole bank had lost all compression and the other bank was down, replacement engine required.

[paulrog1]

Sorry, I've no further info on this, this was all i was told.

[paulrog1]

The small end bush was modified in 2008, plus i believe a piston redesign, possibly explains why the glass key cars are not affected.

[paulrog1]

Calinours said:

ahhh, what a shame. So again it’s just more ‘words’ on the internet. “I once read that…”

This story was not read off the internet but a discussion at a inde car garage, the Vanquish ended up with him and he repaired it, I don't know any other details.

[paulrog1]

So I've had a chat with a few people and I've decided to remove the engine in my garage, put it in the back of my van and get it reconditioned.

There were a few options I considered, - take the engine out at home and either have it reconditioned or get a secondhand one from a breakers yard, - drive it to a garage and let them do it all or just sell the car for whatever I can get.

Thinking about the options, I can't sell her and I don't have a huge amount of money to spend so that's the decision I've made.

So the only way you can remove the engine is to install a 2 post ramp in the garage, separate the body from the chassis/drivetrain, then construct a wheeled trolley which can separate in two and able to pull the engine/drivetrain out of the garage, separate the torque tube from the engine and then using an engine hoist to lift the engine out of the front subframe and put the engine into a van,

Look at GB9 garage on youtube, this is roughly what I'll be doing.

A huge job, so I'm taking it in little steps and taking my time, probably won't start it until the middle of the year as I've got a few things on at the mo.

Probably I'll start a new topic when the job starts.

Edited by paulrog1 on Sunday 18th February 14:18

[paulrog1]

andyvvc said:

Gutted to hear about this the other week chap. Had a long-ish chat with Myles - were local so if we can help let us know!

I'm an expert in:
Coffee making
Coffee testing
Hob Nob evaluation and disassembly
I can also possibly wield a spanner or hold something up for you engine-lift etc related lol

It's a cheap(er) fix than if the engine had imploaded. And once fixed, you will have a very desirable DB9 (that you won't want to sell anyway)

Hi Andy, yeah thanks, I know your only round the corner, Myles has already come round for a chat.

Yeah massive job, I'll start it in the summer as I've got a few things on at the mo, getting the ramp installed first, plus I need to know if the concrete in my garage is suitable, might need to cut and install new footings for the lift first, the list just goes on........

Tell you what, when this is all done (probs early next year) we'll go out for some ace run outs!!!

[paulrog1]

VanquishRider said:

When you say repaired? What was the repair carried out?

I'm not aware of any engines being available unless you find one from a crashed car?

This is why Richard has worked hard to develop this solution. It is also why Barry Hart is interested. He sees it as a continual offering for any V12 needing a rebuild. As you cannot rebore them oversize. This is the only solution out there for damaged bores.

I believe the owner sourced a replacement engine from a breakers yard and was installed successfully.

[paulrog1]

DB9VolanteDriver said:

That wouldn’t work. You couldn’t separate the body from the powertrain.

Yeah thats right, I'm installing a 2 post lift.

[paulrog1]

Update.

Definitely going to take the engine out at home.

I've spent sometime sorting out the garage and this week just installed a 2 post lift.

I plan to have the engine out by Christmas as I always have loads of other stuff to do.

Plan A is to have the engine stripped down and repaired, but if too expensive - Plan B get a replacement engine from a breakers yard, but I definitely prefer Plan A.

I'll update later in the year

Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 29th June 18:22

Edited by paulrog1 on Saturday 29th June 18:26

[paulrog1]

karatemaserati said:

Goodluck and sorry its happened..

Have you thought about turning it in to a 7.3 while you are at it? Surely wouldn't cost much more and then uv have something really special.. every cloud and all

I'm thinking about putting in a DB11 V12, some on ebay.

[paulrog1]

Gazza450 said:

That sounds like a big project!
Two post lift looks great but just remember that you may have to support the back of the car when removing the engine, as all the weight balance will transfer to the back when the engine is out.
Did you have to reinforce the floor slab or foundations to accommodate the holding down bolts for the posts?
My car is currently with Martins Aston Services for a rear sub-frame refurb, suspension refresh etc. They have had to independently support the front of the car when back is stripped otherwise the car would have been very unstable on a two post ramp with the gearbox and subframe removed.
Good luck and look forward to hearing how you get on.
G.

The way it works is that the weight isn't shifted whist on the 2 post lift, the drivetrain rests on a trolley leaving the body on the 2 post lift.

You are correct about the rear subframe, weight is shifted to the front, I had to support the front when I removed mine a few years ago.

My garage floor has got 8 inches of concrete with rebar when it was built, The lift manufacturer recommends a minimum thickness of 6 inches. I didn't use the anchor bolts that came with it, I purchased 20mmx200 HST3 Hilti anchor bolts which better secures the lift to the floor .

Edited by paulrog1 on Tuesday 2nd July 17:08

[paulrog1]

AM4884 said:

Hi Paul,

I found the procedure to get the engine out of my DB9 pretty straightforward and follows the DB9 manual faithfully (google and you can find the thread on the other US based forum).

I built some wooden frames from 4X4s on dolleys to support the engine & tranny/diff. (in lieu of the nice metal ones in the manual!).

Really the only head scratcher was the location of the panel inside the footwell that the engine bay harness connects to. Laying on my back (love it..) with my head jammed up into the footwell, i finally found them up on the side of the car. None of them really wanted to come out, one of them was really stubborn...

It was one of the most satisfying moments of my engine building "career".

Good luck, be patient and if you are stuck, be sure to come back and post here!

Yeah I've read your topic on 6 speed online and watched GB9 garage on YouTube. You've done a great job keeping your DB9 on the road.

I'll be making the trolley from 4x4 wood and heavy duty castors so very much like you.

[paulrog1]

AM4884 said:

I highly recommend an oil temp & oil pressure gauge. Those really tell the story on if your engine is ready to "rumble"...

OK, yeah could you give me more details? What type of gauges and where to connect?

I guess oil temp would be around 110-120 centigrade operating temperature?

Thanks