Boot not opening ... at least not when you want it to.
Discussion
Anyone experienced this before. If I unlock the car and press the boot button (on the boot, not the keyfob), nothing happens. Then, as soon as I start the car, the boot pops open. The same thing happens with the boot switch on the centre console inside the car.
The only way to open the boot without starting the car is using the keyfob.
Will a battery reset help?
The only way to open the boot without starting the car is using the keyfob.
Will a battery reset help?
Hi.
You can try a battery disconnect but leave the power off for more than 2 mins as the body control module retains residual power for this amount of time. But don’t forget you will have to reset the windows, seats and power-hood (if your model has one). If that doesn’t work then it’s a trip to somewhere to read fault codes.
What model do you have?
Mike.
Bamford Rose
You can try a battery disconnect but leave the power off for more than 2 mins as the body control module retains residual power for this amount of time. But don’t forget you will have to reset the windows, seats and power-hood (if your model has one). If that doesn’t work then it’s a trip to somewhere to read fault codes.
What model do you have?
Mike.
Bamford Rose
clorenzen said:
I had this on my V12V just after i took delivery. Faulty boot lock mechanism exchanged under warranty. Takes 30 mins to change.
Hi.I am sure that your problem was what you said it was (faulty mechanism), and that it needed a new mechanism to resolve the issue, and as your car was under warranty, the route to cure the problem, for you, was / is inconsequential.
But…. The boot lock mechanism is simply ‘earthed-out’ by the body control module. The problem that started this thread stated that under spurious conditions the mechanism did operate. This means that the mechanism is functioning (being given an earth signal from body control module).
I will avoid making generalisations about dealerships, but, you would not believe the amount of sensors, actuators, ECU’s and other electrical system parts received back by the factory. Which when tested on a bench / in the car, show no signs of any failure / defect. This leads me to question the amount of robust fault diagnosis which is actually being performed versus blindly throwing new components at a problem. In this instance, would simple ‘disturbance’ of the mechanism have kicked it into life somehow? Would a battery disconnect and re-program of modules have corrected the issue?
As I said at the beginning, for those under warranty it makes no difference how the problem is resolved. But for those of you outside of manufacture warranty, bulletproof fault detection makes the cost of ownership much more palatable.
Just my opinion….
Mike
Bamford Rose
Mike although I agree with some of your comments I can see why dealers replace components, diagnostic time on warranty jobs is either non existent or limited, and the labour rate is lower than that which would be charged normally, erring on the side of caution meaning is it the component or the connection the issue, the easy route satisfying both possible causes is to replace the unit, working in development as you clearly have is far different from working with the vehicles in a dealership or repair facility, common problems may not generate feed back for quite a while as each dealer may only see an issue once or twice without reporting it back as it seems insignificant, a perfect example is the thermostat issue with The V8 vantage many dealers discounted the issue although an independent provided proof and under pressure from the owners the dealers checked and the replaced the components under warranty, That is not that it can not be diagnosed correctly, your main point is correct diagnosis given the opportunity and challenge many of the dealer techs i know would rise to the challenge and excel as i personally love a challenge and in many cases have to deal with issues others have given up on which in many cases have proven to be quite minor repairs, going back to the op's question in most cases the issue is with the tail gate button, water can enter the switch usually when washing and in many cases it is this rather than the latch mechanism,
simple test does the tailgate release button work in the car, pressing the release button on the tailgate firmly or repeatedly release the tailgate, using the remote depending on year and programming holding for release or double pressing activate the tailgate,
simple test does the tailgate release button work in the car, pressing the release button on the tailgate firmly or repeatedly release the tailgate, using the remote depending on year and programming holding for release or double pressing activate the tailgate,
I agree with Rick
We see it in our industry and I've seen it with other car marques
Dealers do not make their normal margin on warranty labour
Warranty parts cost them nothing so it is more profitable for them to "throw parts" at a problem.
Back on topic
My roadster did the same thing after the dealer fitted the clear light pack which was followed by a rattle in the bootlid which subsequently stopped when the latch failed.
I suspect a dropped nut from the brake light seizing the the mechanism but they never confirmed when they replaced the latch under warranty.
We see it in our industry and I've seen it with other car marques
Dealers do not make their normal margin on warranty labour
Warranty parts cost them nothing so it is more profitable for them to "throw parts" at a problem.
Back on topic
My roadster did the same thing after the dealer fitted the clear light pack which was followed by a rattle in the bootlid which subsequently stopped when the latch failed.
I suspect a dropped nut from the brake light seizing the the mechanism but they never confirmed when they replaced the latch under warranty.
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