Adjustable camber on the V8V

[MrOrange]

Anyone tried adjusting the front suspension to give the car, say, 0.25 degrees more camber on the front to make it "more point and go"? I'm assuming a small change will avoid it becoming to jittery but does it help to remove it's gentle understeer tendency?

[bogie]

not personally, but TDI in Essex have developed and sucessfully done a few geometry setups now on the Vantage, with happy customers (search on here)

....for the price they charge and equipment they have, its not worth getting your hands dirty trying to DIY

...unless you have a £100K laser alignment rig or are good with a ball of string and some poles and can do it the old fashioned way

[MrOrange]

I'm rather handy with string, set up a few race cars using nothing more

How do you adjust it? Are the top/bottom mounts adjustable (eccentric, shims etc) or via offset bushes (lot more work involving big hammers ).

[Siy]

No idea... I am booked to take mine to TDI in April.. will let you know the outcome afterwards

[rick-derby-]

MrOrange said:

I'm rather handy with string, set up a few race cars using nothing more

How do you adjust it? Are the top/bottom mounts adjustable (eccentric, shims etc) or via offset bushes (lot more work involving big hammers ).

all adjustments are eccentric both front and back, set up correctly they handle great, the normal settings are ok but incorrectly set she becomes a dangerous beast,

[MrOrange]

Thanks Rick. Point completely taken about incorrect setup, what are the number for the static setup now?

Any idea what sort of range do the ecc bushes/mounts give you? Only toying of adding a small amount of neg camber at the front to see if the car tucks in better on initial turn-in.

[rick-derby-]

this is the standard set up

V8 Track geometry

Front camber -1 deg 00’ (+/- 05’)
Front toe 0 deg 10’ (+02’/-04’)
Front castor 5 deg 00’ (+15’/00’)
Rear camber -1 deg 30’ (+/-05’)
Rear toe 0 deg 20’ (+10’/-00’)
Thrust angle 0 deg00’ (+/-01’)

there is quite a large amount of adjustment available, I personally would not just alter the front as the rear end makes a significant difference, and the biggest problem i see with handling is usually from the rear especially with thrust lines,

my personal favourite set up is this,

Front camber -0 deg 40’ (+/- 05’)
Front toe 0 deg 10’ (+02’/-04’)
Front castor 4 deg 10’ (+15’/00’)

leaving the rear as normal, ignore the tolerances and get it spot on, also making sure tyre pressures are set correctly using a calibrated tyre pressure gauge, set up should be done with a full tank of fuel and 37.5kgs in each seat

[MrOrange]

rick-derby- said:

Front camber -0 deg 40’ (+/- 05’)

Less camber? Hmmm. Can't do thrust with string, would you use a Hunter-type alignment machine? Best guess for time/cost for a geo-check and change?

rick-derby- said:

set up should be done with a full tank of fuel and 37.5kgs in each seat

Need to borrow a couple of midgets...or 2 Kylies

[bogie]

a few bags of sand or cement will do the job ...just hoover it out after

[mikey k]

rick-derby- said:

all adjustments are eccentric both front and back, set up correctly they handle great, the normal settings are ok but incorrectly set she becomes a dangerous beast,

As is any rear wheel car
More pointy - I'd be taking caster off rather than adding camber.

ETA Rick beat me to it! Bookmarked for those settings as well!

Edited by mikey k on Friday 25th February 16:27

[anonymous-user]

If you really want your V8V to turn in and power out of corners nicely you need to be turning your diff upsidedown !!

[mikey k]

rick-derby- said:

this is the standard set up

V8 Track geometry

Front camber -1 deg 00’ (+/- 05’)
Front toe 0 deg 10’ (+02’/-04’)
Front castor 5 deg 00’ (+15’/00’)
Rear camber -1 deg 30’ (+/-05’)
Rear toe 0 deg 20’ (+10’/-00’)
Thrust angle 0 deg00’ (+/-01’)

there is quite a large amount of adjustment available, I personally would not just alter the front as the rear end makes a significant difference, and the biggest problem i see with handling is usually from the rear especially with thrust lines,

my personal favourite set up is this,

Front camber -0 deg 40’ (+/- 05’)
Front toe 0 deg 10’ (+02’/-04’)
Front castor 4 deg 10’ (+15’/00’)

leaving the rear as normal, ignore the tolerances and get it spot on, also making sure tyre pressures are set correctly using a calibrated tyre pressure gauge, set up should be done with a full tank of fuel and 37.5kgs in each seat

Just dug my report out
It is similar to Ricks settings with slightly less camber -0deg 30' and more caster at 5deg, the rear is as per the track settings above.
Contemplating adding a bit more caster to get a bit more turn in grip (I think!) Or maybe I just need a bit more front camber

BTW the target "Spec" from the database is;
Front Caster 4deg 45' to 5deg 30'
Front Camber -0deg 35' to -0deg 25'
Front Toe left 0.1 - 0.5mm
Front Toe right 0.1 - 0.5mm
Front Toe total 0.1 - 0.5mm
Rear Camber -1deg 50' to -1deg 40'
Rear Toe left 1.0 - 1.6mm
Rear Toe right 1.0 - 1.6mm
Rear Toe total 2.0 - 3.1mm

Edited by mikey k on Tuesday 8th March 18:43

[hartley]

Nope - don't understand a word anybody on this thread is talking about

[GTDB7]

Just for curiosity more than anything else..

But how much does it affect the settings if the camber / track are adjusted without the extra weights added into the car?

Are we talking minutes or degrees?