Winter usage- or lack of

[CatalystV8V]

I don't really use my Vantage in the winter. Primarily because I don't want to expose it to our salt laden roads.. however I was wondering whether I should be starting her up on occasion.. I know when I had my porsche 928, the general consensus was that this could do more harm than good as full operating temperature would not be achieved and that warming the car up on tick-over was not a good idea..

Is this just an old wives tail or should I be starting her up on occasion?

Richard.

[oblio]

I'm not sure on the engine thing but the wheels will need to be taken off or the car moved to avoid flat spotting the tyres I would have thought.

I get mine in for an underneath clean and waxoyl touch up prior to the snow/ice/salt season every year for the same reason as you mention...except this year! I ran out of time before the big freeze/salt up started.

Saying that in some ways I prefer winter roof down motoring as it is soooo fresh. We went out this pm for a blat around the Cotswolds stopping off in Burford for a cup of coffee! Roof down, arse cookers on, heater on - marvellous

[RichB]

I've had my Griff since new and although I also like the roof down on crisp winter days with the bum warmers on experience I have to say it doesn't get used a lot in the winter. I keep it on an Accumate and try to use it monthly but I don't fret about it and I've never experienced the flat spot tyre syndrome, so I don't subscribe to that particular theory.

[CatalystV8V]

I did notice some flat spotting on my tyres last year, but it soon disappeared.

Oblio, When you say you have it waxoyl'd, what exactly do you mean? Is it just a case of looking for exposed pieces of chassis and covering those over or do you have it injected in to box cavities too or is it just a general all over treatment? Oh, and who do you entrust with this task?

R.

[rick-derby-]

just a tip for anybody carrying out under body protection use 50% schultz and 50% waxoyl, this makes a great mix, waxoyl on its own is great at water repelling but it stays sticky so foreign particulates do adhere to it where as schultz is a great sealant but if moisture is trapped beneath it will only accelerate corrosion, the mix has the best properties of both and can be sprayed into cavities or just brushed on, this can be a diy job but it is much easier on a ramp, do not cover rust a good wire brushing and a bit of tlc makes all the difference, and it does not matter if the underbody is steel alloy or aluminium they are all affected by the elements,

[RichB]

Rick, have you got a web link to shultz? The sites I've looked at seem to intermix waxoyle and shultz as the same stuff which seems odd...

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=0...

[CatalystV8V]

Rick, any thoughts on the periodic running of the engine through the winter months, can you see any reasons why this might cause problems?

Thanks for the advice re undersealing, I'll definitely have this done next year..

PS just looked at the link supplied by RichB (thanks)... it seems to suggest that this treatment can be applied at any time as it will force out moisture/salt etc. Is this correct? If so I may be popping down to see you.

Edited by CatalystV8V on Monday 28th December 09:13

[oblio]

CatalystV8V said:

I did notice some flat spotting on my tyres last year, but it soon disappeared.

Oblio, When you say you have it waxoyl'd, what exactly do you mean? Is it just a case of looking for exposed pieces of chassis and covering those over or do you have it injected in to box cavities too or is it just a general all over treatment? Oh, and who do you entrust with this task?

R.

Hi

On my Griff I used to get the whole underneath hand cleaned and liberally covered in the stuff. With the DB7 I had it was just a question of touching up any areas where the underneath had become exposed due to wear. I got my local garage to do it who looked after my Griff as he had the facilities. You can DIY but its a messy job and most of us do not have the facilities. On the DB7 as it was just a touch up it was really cheap. As I say I didnt get the 9 done this year.

I will take Rick's advice on board regarding the 50/50 mix though - seems eminently sensible (as always)

[rick-derby-]

agreed it is a messy job, waxoyl is usually clear and of a thinner consistency and will repel moisture ut stays sticky to the touch, so theoretically could be applied if the car was damp, whereas black schultz is more of a stone chip protection and forms a good solid seal that is dry to the touch, many garages use schultz on such as sills after welding etc, but if moisture is trapped underneath it will make corrosion a bigger issue, if there are any areas of corrosion these should be sorted before hand just a good wire brushing is normally all that is needed,

inside sills and enclosed areas such as chassis rails waxoyl should be used because of it's repellant qualities, whereas exposed areas such as underbody, under the wheel arches the mix is best, personally i would make sure everything was clean and dry before any underbody treatment,

ref winter storage, this depends on how long the car is going to be stored for, if it is going to be for a month or more, the wheels should be removed and stored on there side, fuel tank should be as low as possible, battery conditioner on and battery disconnect switch activated, starting the vehicle weekly is not normally necessary, but if the car has not been started for weeks then oil pressure should be allowed to build up before allowing the car to start,

• * to obtain oil pressure prior to starting press accelerator to the floor,and hold it there, crank engine it will not start and wait for the red oil pressure warning symbol to go out (it's in the shape of an oil can) turn off ignition take foot off accelerator, then start as normal, ***

[CatalystV8V]

Many thanks for the advice Rick...

unfortunately removal of wheels is not an option due to limited garage space... but just out of interest how would you suggest this is best achieved without access to garage facilities?

[gary.taylor17]

Rick,
Regarding oil pressure did you mean turn engine over with battery disconnect switch activated ? as surely the engine would start.Thanks

Edited by gary.taylor17 on Monday 28th December 12:08

[rick-derby-]

if the wheels can not be removed or the vehicle safely jacked up and supported, a simple trick is to increase the tyre pressures above normal, 15psi per tyre extra, letting them down to normal before driving will help, then a good run getting the tyres nice and hot will normally get rid of the flat spots,

[RichB]

Rick while we're on this thread, what exactly do you mean by 50/50 Waxoyl/Schultz? Mix it together or spray one layer then the other or Waxoyl on 50% of the panels and Shultz on the rest?

Edited by RichB on Monday 28th December 13:20

[David W.]

rick-derby- said:

if the wheels can not be removed or the vehicle safely jacked up and supported, a simple trick is to increase the tyre pressures above normal, 15psi per tyre extra, letting them down to normal before driving will help, then a good run getting the tyres nice and hot will normally get rid of the flat spots,

another answer is this
http://www.discountramps.com/flat-stoppers.htm
&
http://www.tirecradle.com/tcradle.html

a friend has something similar for a vintage car and swears by them. Can't see why they need to cost soooo much though!

Edited by David W. on Monday 28th December 18:26

Edited by David W. on Monday 28th December 18:33

[rick-derby-]

pressing throttle completely to the floor then turn ignition key on press start button, engine will turn over but not start, this is in built just for this reason,you don not have he battery switch disconnected, once light is extinguished turrn key to off the proceed to start as normal;

ref 50/50 we always premix and spray it on, it can so be brushed on, one good tip standing the tins of schultz and waxoyl in hot water before sing really makes it easier to work with

[gary.taylor17]

Thanx Rick, Happy new year m8

[GR1FF1F]

Just came back from a week or so away, during which I understand there may have been some snow. Car was left outside and appears none the worse for wear, although the brake discs looked AWFUL; big accumulation of rust. I'm assuming this is due to the car sitting in snow up to the axles and then condensation in the thaw.

Anyway, went ot drive away this morning and experienced a clunk, as though the brake pads were frozen to the discs and cam unstuck when I moved. Then much rubbing noise, obviously, for the first half a mile, but with a few progressively more spiritied applications of the brakes it seemd to be running more freely. Arrived at work and majority (but by no means all of the rust has gone).

Any tips as to whether this is a concern ? Can anything be done to discourage the build up, other than garaging in the bad weather ?

[bogie]

mine lives outdoors (although under cover) and having rusty discs is normal ...I dont think non rusting brake discs have been invented yet....well other than carbon discs

[CatalystV8V]

Rick, tried the procedure as you suggested but the car would not turnover. I'm guessing that as well as depressing the accelerator you also have to dress clutch too?

I was too worried to try this as I had visions of the engine blasting in to life and bouncing off the limiter so just started the car normally.. .would be grateful if you could clarify... sorry to labor this point..

R.

[David W.]

Like RichB (I'm guessing here) I pull out the HT lead from the distributor cap to build up some oil preassure, this often leads (not pun) to me going out with oily knuckles though!