Waking the wee beastie

[CatalystV12V]

I've just re-taxed the V12Vs [2014] and will be getting her out possibly today!!

I know I can't use the old FORD ECU trick to pump some oil around, and realise pulling a fuse for the injectors is one alternative. However, due to the way I stored the car I can't get to the passenger side fuse box.

First question, how important is it to get oil around the engine after lay-up. Secondly, has anyone one had success with a series of short cranks, hoping engine doesn't immediately fire.

I realise at the end of the day its just a car, but I'd like to do the best by it that I can.. ohh and its been laid up for 4 months.

Thanks!!

[kevin_cambs_uk]

Crikey no help but I get anxious when mine hasn’t run for more than 10 days!

But like you said it’s just a car but yours is a stunning one

Kev

[cliffords]

My view is you do more damage cranking, as opposed to getting it quickly started and the oil pumped arround.
It's easy to overthink. It's one cold start after a period of non use. No big deal.
This is my opinion.

[V8LM]

CatalystV12V]I've just re-taxed the V12Vs [2014 said:

and will be getting her out possibly today!!

I know I can't use the old FORD ECU trick to pump some oil around, ...

Works on the 2014 V12

Owner's Guide p10.34 said:

Starting the engine without sufficient lubrication can cause
serious engine damage. Make sure that the engine oil pressure is
established before allowing the engine to start.
7. Obtain engine oil pressure:
7.1 Press and hold the accelerator pedal hard to the floor (this
temporarily stops fuel injection during cranking).
7.2 Fully press the clutch pedal down. Insert the vehicle key
into the ignition control and move through to engine start.
Allow the engine to crank until the oil pressure symbol in
the instrument cluster goes OFF (showing oil pressure
in the engine).
7.3 Set the ignition to OFF. Release the vehicle key and
accelerator pedal.
8. Start the engine normally and check that the oil pressure and
ignition warning symbols go OFF as the engine starts (correct oil
pressure and battery charging).

Edited by V8LM on Saturday 1st March 09:34

[CatalystV12V]

V8LM said:

CatalystV12V]I've just re-taxed the V12Vs [2014 said:

and will be getting her out possibly today!!

I know I can't use the old FORD ECU trick to pump some oil around, ...

Works on the 2014 V12

Owner's Guide p10.34 said:

Starting the engine without sufficient lubrication can cause
serious engine damage. Make sure that the engine oil pressure is
established before allowing the engine to start.
7. Obtain engine oil pressure:
7.1 Press and hold the accelerator pedal hard to the floor (this
temporarily stops fuel injection during cranking).
7.2 Fully press the clutch pedal down. Insert the vehicle key
into the ignition control and move through to engine start.
Allow the engine to crank until the oil pressure symbol in
the instrument cluster goes OFF (showing oil pressure
in the engine).
7.3 Set the ignition to OFF. Release the vehicle key and
accelerator pedal.
8. Start the engine normally and check that the oil pressure and
ignition warning symbols go OFF as the engine starts (correct oil
pressure and battery charging).

Edited by V8LM on Saturday 1st March 09:34

I'm amazed to see that my manual says that too.. However it does state press the clutch - which obviously my car doesn't have.
I used to use this method when I had a 2010 MANUAL V12V Ford ECU.

I'm pretty sure that this process doen't work with Bosch ECU cars and have seen many posts that say the same.

[V8LM]

CatalystV12V said:

I'm amazed to see that my manual says that too.. However it does state press the clutch - which obviously my car doesn't have.
I used to use this method when I had a 2010 MANUAL V12V Ford ECU.

I'm pretty sure that this process doen't work with Bosch ECU cars and have seen many posts that say the same.

Indeed, is only a feature of the Ford ECU.

ETA: MY 16 owner's guide changed to:

Owner's Guide said:

Starting the engine without sufficient lubrication can cause
serious engine damage. Make sure that the engine oil pressure is
established before starting the engine.
5. Start the engine normally and allow the engine to idle. Check
that the oil pressure and ignition warning symbols go OFF
(correct oil pressure and battery charging).
Raise the bonnet and check for leaks of fuel, oil and coolant.

Doesn't say how one is supposed to 'make sure that the engine oil pressure is established before starting the engine'!

Edited by V8LM on Saturday 1st March 10:48

[CatalystV12V]

V8LM said:

CatalystV12V said:

I'm amazed to see that my manual says that too.. However it does state press the clutch - which obviously my car doesn't have.
I used to use this method when I had a 2010 MANUAL V12V Ford ECU.

I'm pretty sure that this process doen't work with Bosch ECU cars and have seen many posts that say the same.

Indeed, is only a feature of the Ford ECU.

ETA: MY 16 owner's guide changed to:

Owner's Guide said:

Starting the engine without sufficient lubrication can cause
serious engine damage. Make sure that the engine oil pressure is
established before starting the engine.
5. Start the engine normally and allow the engine to idle. Check
that the oil pressure and ignition warning symbols go OFF
(correct oil pressure and battery charging).
Raise the bonnet and check for leaks of fuel, oil and coolant.

Doesn't say how one is supposed to 'make sure that the engine oil pressure is established before starting the engine'!

Edited by V8LM on Saturday 1st March 10:48

And there in lies my problem!! :0)

[DBA086]

I read that the later cars do this themselves - ie the ECU will manage this.

[CatalystV12V]

So according to BR the only thing you can do on a Bosch ECU is crank and turn off. Do this several times to build pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSpEupXmh5Y

[CatalystV12V]

CatalystV12V said:

So according to BR the only thing you can do on a Bosch ECU is crank and turn off. Do this several times to build pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSpEupXmh5Y

by way of update - I followed this procedure and on the 4th short-crank/start-up - the oil pressure light went out. Went for a 40 minute drive and apart from a slight squeak from the brakes, which soon disappeared, I'm happy to report everything seems fine!

[Dewi 2]

CatalystV12V said:

I know I can't use the old FORD ECU trick to pump some oil around, and realise pulling a fuse for the injectors is one alternative. However, due to the way I stored the car I can't get to the passenger side fuse box.

First question, how important is it to get oil around the engine after lay-up. Secondly, has anyone one had success with a series of short cranks, hoping engine doesn't immediately fire.

I am very conscious of this, but fortunately the clutch and throttle down feature is available to me.
Even after a winter lay-up and dry sump, I have noticed that the oil pressure light goes out surprisingly quickly. Possibly less than two seconds.
If the oil pressure light also goes out very quickly on a V12, perhaps there might not be any significant wear.

In the old days, quickly remove the spark plug leads, but presumably that is a big job now.

On this subject, it recently occurred to me, that a huge number of engine starts from zero revs (initially no oil pressure) with start/stop systems, might be creating extra engine wear.
My daily does not have a starter motor or toothed flywheel ring gear, so no worries about wear of those components, but I wonder whether eventually, thousands of engine starts in the life of a car does cause extra engine wear?
Even though not knowing the answer to that, I have stopped using the stop/start system.

We know that if the United Kingdom stopped creating any CO2 tomorrow, it would not make one jot of difference to the whole World.
I am in the fortunate position of not needing to save 10 pence, by stopping my car's engine everytime the vehicle stops, so the system is not used.

Do any mechanical engineers amongst us, consider additional engine wear might occur by constantly using stop/start systems?

Edited by Dewi 2 on Saturday 1st March 17:43

[AM-DB9]

For my 2013 V12 with ZF6

Foot to the floor on the gas pedal
Foot on the brake
Push and HOLD the crystal key to crank
After 5 seconds of cranking, if no oil pressure, foot off of the brake pedal ONLY
let the starter rest 5 seconds
Foot back on the brake, it will crank again
if good oil pressure, release the gas pedal, Vroooom

[Jon39]

AM-DB9 said:

For my 2013 V12 with ZF6

Foot to the floor on the gas pedal
Foot on the brake
Push and HOLD the crystal key to crank
After 5 seconds of cranking, if no oil pressure, foot off of the brake pedal ONLY
let the starter rest 5 seconds
Foot back on the brake, it will crank again
if good oil pressure, release the gas pedal, Vroooom

Try that on a later V12 with Bosch ECU and I think you will hear the engine start at maximum revs.
Not good.

[Buster73]

V8LM said:

Doesn't say how one is supposed to 'make sure that the engine oil pressure is established before starting the engine'!

Edited by V8LM on Saturday 1st March 10:48

It’s stabilised at zero surely ?

[CSK1]

Jon39 said:

AM-DB9 said:

For my 2013 V12 with ZF6

Foot to the floor on the gas pedal
Foot on the brake
Push and HOLD the crystal key to crank
After 5 seconds of cranking, if no oil pressure, foot off of the brake pedal ONLY
let the starter rest 5 seconds
Foot back on the brake, it will crank again
if good oil pressure, release the gas pedal, Vroooom

Try that on a later V12 with Bosch ECU and I think you will hear the engine start at maximum revs.
Not good.

Yes, V12 Vantage S have Bosch ECU, this process doesn’t work.

[Nigel_O]

I didn’t know this was universal across the VH-era Aston range.

Tried it on my ‘07 Vantage yesterday and it worked fine. The car is often not started for weeks at a time during winter, so it was nice to crank it until the oil light went out.

[AM-DB9]

This is a good video about this topic, kinda long and geeky but good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=939WTeorBnQ

[Emilio Largo]

Nigel_O said:

I didn’t know this was universal across the VH-era Aston range.

No, it is NOT"universal across the VH-era Aston range".
It depends on the engine management system used (Visteon vs. Bosch).

My goodness - discussed ca. 21 times in twelve years. Still no avail.