What should I look out for in a very ropey Vantage?

[AlexNJ89]

How risky is a ropey 2014 V8 Vantage S Sportshift?

A friend of a friend is about to part-ex their Vantage on 88,000 miles.

All I know is that he hasn't had it for longer than 6 months, the body work isn't good with corrosion to the mirror stalks which I'm aware isn't an expensive fix, some corrosion under the paintwork I will need to fix and it has done 7,000 miles in 3 years without being serviced (so last service was 2021).

I'm being offered it cheap, around £23k I think.

I'm trying to assess what I'm getting myself in for and what possible outcomes to budget for. Such as it may need a new clutch which is about £3.5k I believe.

I think the engines themselves are quite bulletproof, but is there anything else I should be concerned about when taking on this car?

Thanks

[WhiskyDisco]

Don't delay - you are being offered the chance to buy a known entity at trade money. There is so much upside to the deal it is a no brainer.

[AlexNJ89]

WhiskyDisco said:

Don't delay - you are being offered the chance to buy a known entity at trade money. There is so much upside to the deal it is a no brainer.

That's why I'm being a bit panicky. I've always always wanted the 2012+ S model but it was out of budget. I can live with high mileage, I'll get some of the body work issues fixed but don't mind if it looks tired, but what I mostly fear is that there is a potential bork factor that I didn't know to look out for or expect.

I can budget another £5k - £7k for clutch, service and maybe a few other things but anything more would be tough to swallow for me right now.

Are the gearboxes robust, even if they've been driven by an idiot?

[JeremyH5]

Would your friend allow you to have a pre purchase inspection done by a good independent specialist garage? You would then find out the unknowns you might currently be worried about so you can take an informed decision. Worth £300-£500 for the peace of mind I’d have thought.

[LTP]

AlexNJ89 said:

How risky is a ropey 2014 V8 Vantage S Sportshift?

A friend of a friend is about to part-ex their Vantage on 88,000 miles.

All I know is that he hasn't had it for longer than 6 months, the body work isn't good with corrosion to the mirror stalks which I'm aware isn't an expensive fix, some corrosion under the paintwork I will need to fix and it has done 7,000 miles in 3 years without being serviced (so last service was 2021).

I'm being offered it cheap, around £23k I think.

I'm trying to assess what I'm getting myself in for and what possible outcomes to budget for. Such as it may need a new clutch which is about £3.5k I believe.

I think the engines themselves are quite bulletproof, but is there anything else I should be concerned about when taking on this car?

Thanks

In no particular order, and mostly things you'd check on any higher-mileage car:

• Check shocks for leaks
• Check suspension bushes for cracking
• Check for cracked road springs
• Check the wear on the brake discs and pads (use a micrometer if you can get access
• Check the wheels for having been kerbed
• Check tyres for age (it's on the sidewall) and cracks in the treads. make sure all the tyres match and are of the correct size/speed/load
• Check all the controls work
• Check the windows operate OK and the short-drop on opening is present and correct
• Check the memory seats (if present). Check all the seat motors work
• Check the displays - some of the digital displays can show deterioration
• Check the leather dash for wrinkles or signs the leather has shrunk or is becoming detached
• Check the front of the engine for oil leaks - the front timing cover is a known issue
• Check the rear subframe for how scabby it is (they are all scabby to some degree unless it's a garage queen or has been done)
• Check the zinc side strakes for pitting
• Check for wind noise or waterleaks from the door seals. Sometimes the glass can be badly aligned
• Check door glass alignment within the aperture - make sure it doesn't catch or fit unevenly
• Check the aircon works
• Listen for squeaks or rattles on a test drive
• Check the fuel filler opens when you press the button
• Check for brake judder or squeal
• Check that it tracks straight and the wheel is central
• Get it up to temperature and make sure the gauge is reading dead centre
• Check for condensation in the lights, especially the rear
• Check around the edges of the windscreen for corrosion - the roof and quarters are steel so you can get rust/bubbling along the top of the screen.
• Check the gearbox hydraulic hoses for cracking

Ideally you'd want the wheels off, and get it on a hoist.

AlexNJ89 said:

Are the gearboxes robust, even if they've been driven by an idiot?

The advantage of the SSII 'box is it's operated by the hydraulics so, apart from abusing the clutch, there's not much an idiot can do. They fitted the same gearbox to the V12V, so that should give you an idea of how robust it is. They're a little on the agricultural side, can knock going into first, and whine gently.

Edited by LTP on Saturday 30th March 20:50

[AlexNJ89]

LTP said:

The advantage of the SSII 'box is it's operated by the hydraulics so, apart from abusing the clutch, there's not much an idiot can do. They fitted the same gearbox to the V12V, so that should give you an idea of how robust it is. They're a little on the agricultural side, can knock going into first, and whine gently.

Edited by LTP on Saturday 30th March 20:50

This is a great list, thanks!

I do know already that there is condensation in the rear lights. I was planning to buy the kit to prevent this.

Edited by AlexNJ89 on Saturday 30th March 21:05

[Calinours]

AlexNJ89 said:

WhiskyDisco said:

Don't delay - you are being offered the chance to buy a known entity at trade money. There is so much upside to the deal it is a no brainer.

Are the gearboxes robust, even if they've been driven by an idiot?

Yes they are. The clutch is the weak point.

[AlexNJ89]

Calinours said:

Yes they are. The clutch is the weak point.

Excellent. I can deal with that as I'd go for the lightweight dual mass fly wheel upgrade anyway.

[LTP]

A few extra thoughts. Budget for a new battery, and for buying a battery conditioner like CTEK or AmpMatic. You may be lucky and the battery may be new, but Astons do not like low battery voltage.
Also, check the MOT history and any advisories - it may give you some things to look at.

[Jon39]

AlexNJ89 said:

... I'd go for the lightweight dual mass fly wheel upgrade ...

[Nigel_O]

Jon39 said:

AlexNJ89 said:

... I'd go for the lightweight dual mass fly wheel upgrade ...

Twin-plate, not dual-mass, presumably…

[AlexNJ89]

Nigel_O said:

Twin-plate, not dual-mass, presumably…

That's what I meant yep.

[kev b]

Great checklist LTP!

I will also suggest checking the underside for damage from careless jacking and also signs of rodents nibbling away under the bonnet.

[ridds]

Just buy it.

You could punt it on through ebay the next day for more if you find something you're not happy with.

Everything in LTPs list, if not replaced already will need doing.

Anything that needs fixing will be expensive and more expensive than you are already thinking, if you are considering at Vantage at £23k.

Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

[Nigel_O]

If enough stuff needs doing and you’re not able / willing to do the work yourself, I reckon you could spend as much on fixing the car than it cost to buy.

Paintwork - £5k?
Clutch - £4k
Suspension - £4k
Wishbones ‘ arms etc - £1k
Subframe refurb - £2k
Brakes - £2k
Tyres - £1k
Lights (usually the rears) - £1k
Full service - £1k
Odds & sods (pipes, brackets, nuts, bolts, fixings) - £1k

That’s £22k there, before we even start on the interior and electrics - a window control unit, a dash display, anything to do with the leather will all cost strong money.

That said, you’d struggle to lose money on it if it turned out to need all that work.

I would be getting a good specialist to look at it, just for the knowledge of what needs doing. Buy it, or walk away on the strength of their report…

[JohnG1]

Get a decent independent garage to do a proper inspection and see what's wrong.

Then you know what you are walking into with a higher degree of confidence.

I used Bamford Rose to do an inspection and they saved me thousands of pounds by spotting issues I missed.

Not sure on price (mine was about £500 but that was 10+ years back).

Happy shopping!

[ridds]

Nigel_O said:

If enough stuff needs doing and you’re not able / willing to do the work yourself, I reckon you could spend as much on fixing the car than it cost to buy.

Paintwork - £5k?
Clutch - £4k
Suspension - £4k
Wishbones ‘ arms etc - £1k
Subframe refurb - £2k
Brakes - £2k
Tyres - £1k
Lights (usually the rears) - £1k
Full service - £1k
Odds & sods (pipes, brackets, nuts, bolts, fixings) - £1k

That’s £22k there, before we even start on the interior and electrics - a window control unit, a dash display, anything to do with the leather will all cost strong money.

That said, you’d struggle to lose money on it if it turned out to need all that work.

I would be getting a good specialist to look at it, just for the knowledge of what needs doing. Buy it, or walk away on the strength of their report…

You're right about spending the same again in repairs as the purchase price.

Double the paint cost if you want a decent job. All very much depends on the colour and the location of the corrosion / damage. Door handles and under the wing mirrors on both sides, you're looking at both sides getting blown over.
Wishbones (read bushes unless you want to rebush the current arms) minimum £1.25k per corner, not including dampers or springs.
Brakes and tyres you could probably get a bit cheaper.

If it needed all listed, OP isn't spanner handy and doesn't have access to a garage, he'd definitely lose money, imho.

Buy it to keep as a long term project and forget the costs. Or, tidy up with the least expense and flip.

[AlexNJ89]

ridds said:

Nigel_O said:

If enough stuff needs doing and you’re not able / willing to do the work yourself, I reckon you could spend as much on fixing the car than it cost to buy.

Paintwork - £5k?
Clutch - £4k
Suspension - £4k
Wishbones ‘ arms etc - £1k
Subframe refurb - £2k
Brakes - £2k
Tyres - £1k
Lights (usually the rears) - £1k
Full service - £1k
Odds & sods (pipes, brackets, nuts, bolts, fixings) - £1k

That’s £22k there, before we even start on the interior and electrics - a window control unit, a dash display, anything to do with the leather will all cost strong money.

That said, you’d struggle to lose money on it if it turned out to need all that work.

I would be getting a good specialist to look at it, just for the knowledge of what needs doing. Buy it, or walk away on the strength of their report…

You're right about spending the same again in repairs as the purchase price.

Double the paint cost if you want a decent job. All very much depends on the colour and the location of the corrosion / damage. Door handles and under the wing mirrors on both sides, you're looking at both sides getting blown over.
Wishbones (read bushes unless you want to rebush the current arms) minimum £1.25k per corner, not including dampers or springs.
Brakes and tyres you could probably get a bit cheaper.

If it needed all listed, OP isn't spanner handy and doesn't have access to a garage, he'd definitely lose money, imho.

Buy it to keep as a long term project and forget the costs. Or, tidy up with the least expense and flip.

Thanks for the advice guys, appreciate it.

The corrosion is just under the door handle and also on the body just where the mirror stalks connect.

I'm surprised there are so many potential corrosion issues (especially subframe) on a car that is only 11 years old.

Apart from clutch it doesn't sound like there are any common issues that would stop me from driving the car, so I would probably fix all of these things over a longer period of time while using it.

[Frankychops]

given you'll get one for circa £20k more with 1/3rd of the millage, if it needs all that doing then don't bother. If it just needs a serivice, then go for it.

[AlexNJ89]

Frankychops said:

given you'll get one for circa £20k more with 1/3rd of the millage, if it needs all that doing then don't bother. If it just needs a serivice, then go for it.

Yep you're right. It's difficult to tell what needs doing. It's an awkward situation as it's a friend of a friend who is just part-ex'ing and doesn't really care if I buy it or not, I just have the opportunity to pay him a bit more and take it. So he's unlikely to entertain inspections etc.

But as you say, if it does need ALL of those things doing, I could've just bought this which I assume comes with a warranty and I can put the £20k down as a deposit and PCP the rest:

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202403288...