DB9 DIY oil change
Discussion
Now that Cambridge Aston has closed, I wanted to DIY change the oil, filter and sump plug on my DB9. I haven't done this on my DB9 before, but I have done this many times on Porsches and Ferraris.
I watched a youtube video that suggests that I need to remove the throttle body to get access to the oil filter.
I went to buy a filter, sump plug and throttle body O ring from an Aston specialist today. the parts manager said I did not need the O ring as the filter could come out from underneath.
I'm now confused. Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?
I watched a youtube video that suggests that I need to remove the throttle body to get access to the oil filter.
I went to buy a filter, sump plug and throttle body O ring from an Aston specialist today. the parts manager said I did not need the O ring as the filter could come out from underneath.
I'm now confused. Can anyone shed some light on this for me please?
Can't help specifically but you might find something at https://aston1936.com/
belfry said:
Now that Cambridge Aston has closed, I wanted to DIY change the oil, filter and sump plug on my DB9. I haven't done this on my DB9 before, but I have done this many times on Porsches and Ferraris.
I watched a youtube video that suggests that I need to remove the throttle body to get access to the oil filter.
I watched a youtube video that suggests that I need to remove the throttle body to get access to the oil filter.
All that I can suggest, is be very wary of following guidance from the 'experts' on YouTube videos.
I needed to use a water pipe freezing kit, so looked at YouTube for help.
After watching a fellow, who pompously calls himself Champion of the Trade, I realised after seeing water gush everywhere, that he is a bumbling fool.
The chap does look suspiciously like Harry Hill without the big collar white shirt, so perhaps it is a comedy video.
Best of luck. After refilling, run the engine briefly then check the oil level again very carefully. Sometimes one can find an overfill (most annoying) after running the engine, so for the very final part of the fill, perhaps top up in small stages, with engine starts.
RHD you can remove the filter from underneath. LHD you must remove the throttle body and remove the filter from above as the steering column blocks access from below.
That said, I would probably attack it from above regardless to save having to remove the undertray (34 screws and a big, floppy, awkward sheet of metal to deal with). Only issue is you have to wait for it to cool pretty much completely before stuffing your arm down there.
That said, I would probably attack it from above regardless to save having to remove the undertray (34 screws and a big, floppy, awkward sheet of metal to deal with). Only issue is you have to wait for it to cool pretty much completely before stuffing your arm down there.
I have a LHD vehicle... If you have a vacuum / suction pump it's worth sucking the oil out of the old filter after you spin it off and have it sitting there. Goes a long way to reducing the mess. As does stuffing the old filter into a ziploc bag before lifting it out. I have to remove the throttle body to get mine out. Pretty much a YGTBSM evolution.
As PrAston says it depends on whether the car is RHD or LHD (bottom access or top access respectively). To his point about removing (or not) the bottom tray, I will add that it depends on the model year. 2013+ DB9s do not have an access hole through which you can remove the drain plug so you need to remove the bottom tray anyway.
PrAston said:
RHD you can remove the filter from underneath. LHD you must remove the throttle body and remove the filter from above as the steering column blocks access from below.
That said, I would probably attack it from above regardless to save having to remove the undertray (34 screws and a big, floppy, awkward sheet of metal to deal with). Only issue is you have to wait for it to cool pretty much completely before stuffing your arm down there.
Perfect. Thank you so much. Mine's a rhd 2005, so I won't remove the throttle body.That said, I would probably attack it from above regardless to save having to remove the undertray (34 screws and a big, floppy, awkward sheet of metal to deal with). Only issue is you have to wait for it to cool pretty much completely before stuffing your arm down there.
I've self serviced my DB9 for years, they are quite simple to work on.
For the Oil & filter change you don't have to remove the undertray to remove the oil, plus to change the filter, remove the secondary bank throttle body to gain access to the filter, put a rag underneath and put a bag over it to minimise any drips. Once you have put 12 litres in the car turn it car over with out starting the engine to get oil pressure and then run it for 10 mins, then let it cool for a few hours and check the oil level.
The air filters are a undertray off job, good chance to put some copper grease on all the undertray screws. the air filters and pollen filters can be purchased cheap using blueprint, they are identical.
The rear diff oil is also straight forward, whilst you doing it take out the filter and give it a clean and purchase the AM trans fluid from a dealer as that also has the additive included.
Remove the throttle bodies and give them a clean with carb cleaner and get new rubber orings.
Every year do a brake fluid caliper bleed on all brake calipers, the halfords brake bleed kits are good for this.
Change the coolant, the old rads have a drain screw, the newer metal ones you'll have to remove the lower rad pipe.
Replace the power steering fluid, look at Aston1936 youtube video on this.
Plus do a ZF gearbox service, Aston1936 has a great video on this also, I did it over the winter and was straightforward.
Get a Foxwell 530 with AM software, this will be very useful.
Brake pads and discs are a doddle to replace, replace the calliper bolts as they are one use only.
Any questions please message me.
For the Oil & filter change you don't have to remove the undertray to remove the oil, plus to change the filter, remove the secondary bank throttle body to gain access to the filter, put a rag underneath and put a bag over it to minimise any drips. Once you have put 12 litres in the car turn it car over with out starting the engine to get oil pressure and then run it for 10 mins, then let it cool for a few hours and check the oil level.
The air filters are a undertray off job, good chance to put some copper grease on all the undertray screws. the air filters and pollen filters can be purchased cheap using blueprint, they are identical.
The rear diff oil is also straight forward, whilst you doing it take out the filter and give it a clean and purchase the AM trans fluid from a dealer as that also has the additive included.
Remove the throttle bodies and give them a clean with carb cleaner and get new rubber orings.
Every year do a brake fluid caliper bleed on all brake calipers, the halfords brake bleed kits are good for this.
Change the coolant, the old rads have a drain screw, the newer metal ones you'll have to remove the lower rad pipe.
Replace the power steering fluid, look at Aston1936 youtube video on this.
Plus do a ZF gearbox service, Aston1936 has a great video on this also, I did it over the winter and was straightforward.
Get a Foxwell 530 with AM software, this will be very useful.
Brake pads and discs are a doddle to replace, replace the calliper bolts as they are one use only.
Any questions please message me.
Edited by paulrog1 on Sunday 18th February 13:12
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