Another DB9 rear subframe refurbished
Discussion
Hi All
A quick intro. I acquired a DB9 a few months ago, unlike all the forums and advice goes, I didn't get the best out there as I simply couldn't justify spending 25k+ on one. Instead I picked up a car that has high miles, 130k, and had a couple of issues.
Firstly the transmission was leaking oil and it has a small fuel leak, other then those the car is in great condition and looks like a car thats done 50k miles not 130k!
So having ignored all the advice, which I often do, I've now got the spanners out and started working on it.
Transmission leak was from the mechatronics connector, pretty standard, so decided to do a full flush on the system. This lead to my first set of issues as the coolant pipes deformed when I tried to remove them, got hold of some second hand ones and they wouldn't quite fit without a bit of a battle. So that all feels ok, haven't refilled yet as I thought it would best to tackle the fuel leak before starting the refill process, which needs the car running at some stages.
So found the source of the leak, drivers side (UK car) connector before the tank has failed and is leaking fuel. The issue is its swollen due to rust and will not come out so I'm going to have to disconnect from the tank.
Hence the topic! I need to remove the subframe in order to get the access I need to the fuel tank, and the subframe is in a really poor state, probably as the car has been well used and not sat in a garage for all its life. So I think its a good thing to get it sorted anyway. I'm expecting to replace a fair amount as lots of the heat sheilds are loose as the connections have broken away etc.
I'll post up some pics, have seen the other posts about it and they've given me some confidence that I can tackle this!
I'm not a mechanic, I tend to work on older amrican stuff, 59 chevy trucks etc, so this is a bit of different set of problems to what I'm used to.
I've already sourced a replacement subframe and have had it coated etc (not powder but marine spec) and my aim is not to return the rear end to prestine condition, its simply to take apart as little as I possibly can to replace the subframe and to fix my fuel leak. Anything else that needs doing I will tackle on an adhoc basis or if I hit a snag waiting for parts etc then I may replace for example bearings or anything else.
Hope that makes sense and if anyone has any tips/tricks please do let me know.
Oh and I'm trying to get this done in 4 weekends! We live in hope!
A quick intro. I acquired a DB9 a few months ago, unlike all the forums and advice goes, I didn't get the best out there as I simply couldn't justify spending 25k+ on one. Instead I picked up a car that has high miles, 130k, and had a couple of issues.
Firstly the transmission was leaking oil and it has a small fuel leak, other then those the car is in great condition and looks like a car thats done 50k miles not 130k!
So having ignored all the advice, which I often do, I've now got the spanners out and started working on it.
Transmission leak was from the mechatronics connector, pretty standard, so decided to do a full flush on the system. This lead to my first set of issues as the coolant pipes deformed when I tried to remove them, got hold of some second hand ones and they wouldn't quite fit without a bit of a battle. So that all feels ok, haven't refilled yet as I thought it would best to tackle the fuel leak before starting the refill process, which needs the car running at some stages.
So found the source of the leak, drivers side (UK car) connector before the tank has failed and is leaking fuel. The issue is its swollen due to rust and will not come out so I'm going to have to disconnect from the tank.
Hence the topic! I need to remove the subframe in order to get the access I need to the fuel tank, and the subframe is in a really poor state, probably as the car has been well used and not sat in a garage for all its life. So I think its a good thing to get it sorted anyway. I'm expecting to replace a fair amount as lots of the heat sheilds are loose as the connections have broken away etc.
I'll post up some pics, have seen the other posts about it and they've given me some confidence that I can tackle this!
I'm not a mechanic, I tend to work on older amrican stuff, 59 chevy trucks etc, so this is a bit of different set of problems to what I'm used to.
I've already sourced a replacement subframe and have had it coated etc (not powder but marine spec) and my aim is not to return the rear end to prestine condition, its simply to take apart as little as I possibly can to replace the subframe and to fix my fuel leak. Anything else that needs doing I will tackle on an adhoc basis or if I hit a snag waiting for parts etc then I may replace for example bearings or anything else.
Hope that makes sense and if anyone has any tips/tricks please do let me know.
Oh and I'm trying to get this done in 4 weekends! We live in hope!
Edited by Parvez Saleh on Tuesday 10th January 13:36
Good luck and be sure to post some pictures. The DB9 manual talks about how to remove the fuel tank. Whatever it says...
I was able to access the top of my fuel tank in the Volante by interrupting the top closure after the rear deck came up, but it sounds like you need more than that...
Great job tackling this project car!
I was able to access the top of my fuel tank in the Volante by interrupting the top closure after the rear deck came up, but it sounds like you need more than that...
Great job tackling this project car!
Parvez I really enjoyed reading your story , for me its what real car ownership is about and to read it on an Aston Martin Forum makes it even more interesting . I did something similar with a DB9 some years back , I bought the Car from a Shoe Importer who had basically abandoned her in his front garden down in Bristol . Thankfully the issues were the usual body related ones , I freshened her up ran her for a month or two before placing her on Autotrader escaping with a (very) small profit . If I can find your Email on here I shall bore you with a couple of pictures . Looking forward to reading about your future progress .
Thanks Guys, made a start on things yesterday, rear lights out, first sets of screws out, hopefully will get the rear bumper off tomorrow.
Some pics (note that a lot had already been removed to get to the transmission and find the fuel leak). Hopefully you can see how scabby my rear subframe is and therefore why I'm tackling it as part of the fuel line work.
This one is of the fuel line that was leaking, after I tried to disconnect it I removed some of the plastic coating to see exactly what was lurking beneath. Hence needing to get to the connection on the fuel tank, which is blocked by the top of the subframe.
Some pics (note that a lot had already been removed to get to the transmission and find the fuel leak). Hopefully you can see how scabby my rear subframe is and therefore why I'm tackling it as part of the fuel line work.
This one is of the fuel line that was leaking, after I tried to disconnect it I removed some of the plastic coating to see exactly what was lurking beneath. Hence needing to get to the connection on the fuel tank, which is blocked by the top of the subframe.
Quick update, managed to get the bumper off
Few things to note
1 - the workshop manual states two sets of electrical connectors each side, and makes them look easy but the reality is there are 4 on the drivers side and 2 on the passengers side. The passenger side one is connected up near the shock absorber so needs to be demounted as well as disconnected
2 - whilst taking out the arch liner on the passenger side we managed to also disconnect the fuel overflow pipe so will need to work out how to reconnect
3 - the bumper also needed three retaining screws removed which weren't in the manul, where the lock machinism is. We'll probably remove that plate also to clean up the ear under it in the boot
Next we need to slightly shift the car on the ramp, which will mean dropping it down and putting dollys under the rear wheels. The reason is I have a support upright in the way, as I didn't plan to do the subframe when I first put the car up on the ramp and therefore hadn't allowed enough space to remove the wheel.
So hopefully in the next week will have all the suspension components disconnected ready to slide the frame out. I've also purchased an induction heat tool just in case bolts dont want to move. As you'll see from the pics its a pretty rusty place down there and I'm seeing a fair few things that could be replaced with new/used units. For example the rear muffler looks in pretty bad shape around the welds, I can get a second hand one for a few hundred pounds but I don't want to commit to the spend until I've got the frame out, at that point I'll have a much better idea of the overall scope of things that need replacing, could be replaced and can be left alone and then I can budget accordingly to see what will work now etc.
Some pictures
Few things to note
1 - the workshop manual states two sets of electrical connectors each side, and makes them look easy but the reality is there are 4 on the drivers side and 2 on the passengers side. The passenger side one is connected up near the shock absorber so needs to be demounted as well as disconnected
2 - whilst taking out the arch liner on the passenger side we managed to also disconnect the fuel overflow pipe so will need to work out how to reconnect
3 - the bumper also needed three retaining screws removed which weren't in the manul, where the lock machinism is. We'll probably remove that plate also to clean up the ear under it in the boot
Next we need to slightly shift the car on the ramp, which will mean dropping it down and putting dollys under the rear wheels. The reason is I have a support upright in the way, as I didn't plan to do the subframe when I first put the car up on the ramp and therefore hadn't allowed enough space to remove the wheel.
So hopefully in the next week will have all the suspension components disconnected ready to slide the frame out. I've also purchased an induction heat tool just in case bolts dont want to move. As you'll see from the pics its a pretty rusty place down there and I'm seeing a fair few things that could be replaced with new/used units. For example the rear muffler looks in pretty bad shape around the welds, I can get a second hand one for a few hundred pounds but I don't want to commit to the spend until I've got the frame out, at that point I'll have a much better idea of the overall scope of things that need replacing, could be replaced and can be left alone and then I can budget accordingly to see what will work now etc.
Some pictures
Its been a while but the project has been continuing
The main reason for the delay was moving the aston to a 4 poster lift as, although others have done it on their garage floors, my db9 is really a bit too rough underneath for that to be practical. I was facing a lot of rust nuts, broken bolts, etc etc. So moved it to my unit and started working on it again a month or so ago.
Now have the subframe out, its in mch worse condition then some of the others have shown in their pictures.
A reminder that the main reason for getting the subframe out was to get access to change the fuel lines
I'm hoping to start doing that in the next few days and also do the automatic transmission service etc
Pics attached, any questions do let me know
The main reason for the delay was moving the aston to a 4 poster lift as, although others have done it on their garage floors, my db9 is really a bit too rough underneath for that to be practical. I was facing a lot of rust nuts, broken bolts, etc etc. So moved it to my unit and started working on it again a month or so ago.
Now have the subframe out, its in mch worse condition then some of the others have shown in their pictures.
A reminder that the main reason for getting the subframe out was to get access to change the fuel lines
I'm hoping to start doing that in the next few days and also do the automatic transmission service etc
Pics attached, any questions do let me know
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