Sportshift in traffic

[LiquidPT]

I'm looking at buying an Aston Martin Vantage and interested in learning more about the SportShift transmissions. I've looked through a bunch of threads here and have learned a lot, but I feel like I have a fairly specific question that I haven't seen the answer for:

How are the various SportShift transmissions in stop and go traffic?

I live near Seattle which has a lot of heavy stop and go traffic. Is the SportShift transmission appropriate for this environment? I've heard it said that it might go through expensive clutches at an accelerated rate. Or is this just the original SportShift? I think I read that SS2 did away with the crawl mode, and so is it significantly better for this specifically?

OK, so assuming that the SportShift would be fine here, let's talk about the versions available. It's my understanding that the SS2 gets greatly improved and essentially becomes a SS3 with the lightweight flywheel and twin clutch conversion. But what about the original SS? I've seen varying reviews of all the SS transmissions. I assume it at least partially depends on what the reviewers expectations are. But are the original SS significantly worse than the SS2 (I've read yes)? Do the same upgrades apply to them? If so, what deficiencies would it still have?

There are a number of 2010-2011 SS 4.7 available that seem to be bargains if you're not set on the SS2.

Thanks for the input
Matt

PS - Yes, I know a stick shift would probably be preferable. But I've got a foot injury that limits my use and enjoyment of a clutch pedal.

[quench]

Since Sportshift is a manual transmission, drive it in traffic as you would a manual. Sympathetic use (pop it in neutral by pulling both paddles) when not moving will minimize wear. Not doing so is the same as riding the clutch in a car with pedals. Driven properly you should be able to get tens of thousands of km of clutch life IMO.

My experience with Sportshift (SS3 only) is that it is just like learning how to drive a new pedal manual transmission car. The drivetrain (clutch/gearshift/engine) combos on various model cars are all different and there is a learning curve, which to me is part of the pleasure of Sportshift compared to say, a torque converter auto or dual clutch. This applies to all aspects of driving (how to use SS to drive smoothly, how to drive it aggressively/quickly, and how to drive it in traffic).

Edited by quench on Monday 8th June 20:50

[IanV12VSRs]

I has SS1 on my first two Astons (4.3 and 4.7) and have to say I found them quite stressful in traffic. So much so that when we did our first foreign tour we moved into a DB9V. This was partly for open top motoring but also using the car in traffic jams or the thought of getting onto a ferry. I used to hate being in traffic on a motorway because I would leave long gaps and then someone would close the gap

One of our cars is a SS3 car and it is fantastic. No qualms over going anywhere in it.

No experience of SS2.

[dwell]

I have a 2011 V8V with (as far as I know) SS1. I’ve done 30,000 miles in it, including European tours which involved ferries and the shuttle. Lots of open roads intermingled with heavy traffic and I’ve never had a problem. Always do the clutch learn on first start up, always drive as a manual on the paddles and, as I’ve done, enjoy every mile 😊

[DB9VolanteDriver]

quench said:

Since Sportshift is a manual transmission, drive it in traffic as you would a manual. Sympathetic use (pop it in neutral by pulling both paddles) when not moving will minimize wear. Not doing so is the same as riding the clutch in a car with pedals. Driven properly you should be able to get tens of thousands of km of clutch life IMO.

Edited by quench on Monday 8th June 20:50

There’s no clutch wear when stopped whether you are in neutral or in 1st gear. The clutch is fully disengaged from the flywheel just as it would be if the clutch pedal was fully depressed while in first on a 3 pedal manual. Also, even when the paddles are both pulled into neutral while stopped, the clutch is still disengaged from the flywheel, unlike a regular manual where the clutch is engaged with the pedal released thus placing less wear on the slave cylinder. So, there can’t be any benefit to placing the trans in neutral at a light sine the clutch is open either way.

[dalecan]

I live by Seattle too and have a 2012 V8Vs (SSII). Mine is a weekend toy and I do try and avoid Seattle rush hour, but when I get caught in it (inevitable) the car is fine as long as you drive sensibly in it. I put the car in neutral when sitting around and try to let a little room in front before pulling off. Go to Park Place as they will let you try the car out.

Incidentally, we have a pretty good aston Facebook forum for the PNW.

[EVR]

DB9VolanteDriver said:

There’s no clutch wear when stopped whether you are in neutral or in 1st gear. The clutch is fully disengaged from the flywheel just as it would be if the clutch pedal was fully depressed while in first on a 3 pedal manual. Also, even when the paddles are both pulled into neutral while stopped, the clutch is still disengaged from the flywheel, unlike a regular manual where the clutch is engaged with the pedal released thus placing less wear on the slave cylinder. So, there can’t be any benefit to placing the trans in neutral at a light sine the clutch is open either way.

Is this official then? I had the previous owner telling me to ALWAYS WITHOUT FAULT putting the car in neutral at EVERY SINGLE STOP, even minimal.

Needles to say, I was more keen on this quoted theory. I put her in N just for prolonged stops and pretty much just to avoid having to keep the brake pressed.

[quench]

^^ Would love to see an official confirmation / documentation of this. If it is true, then at what point does the computer put the transmission into neutral? When the car is completely stopped? At 1 km/hr? Other? With respect to the OP, it is important to understand exactly what is going on, as stop and go traffic is often more like crawl and go.

[Aldhun]

I use Park; comments welcome

[macdeb]

DB9VolanteDriver said:

quench said:

Since Sportshift is a manual transmission, drive it in traffic as you would a manual. Sympathetic use (pop it in neutral by pulling both paddles) when not moving will minimize wear. Not doing so is the same as riding the clutch in a car with pedals. Driven properly you should be able to get tens of thousands of km of clutch life IMO.

Edited by quench on Monday 8th June 20:50

There’s no clutch wear when stopped whether you are in neutral or in 1st gear. The clutch is fully disengaged from the flywheel just as it would be if the clutch pedal was fully depressed while in first on a 3 pedal manual. Also, even when the paddles are both pulled into neutral while stopped, the clutch is still disengaged from the flywheel, unlike a regular manual where the clutch is engaged with the pedal released thus placing less wear on the slave cylinder. So, there can’t be any benefit to placing the trans in neutral at a light sine the clutch is open either way.

^^^^ Absolutely right. Though I always put any car in neutral to save wear on the throwout or thrust bearing that operates the clutch as this will be engaged when in gear with clutch depressed.

[DB9VolanteDriver]

macdeb said:

DB9VolanteDriver said:

quench said:

Since Sportshift is a manual transmission, drive it in traffic as you would a manual. Sympathetic use (pop it in neutral by pulling both paddles) when not moving will minimize wear. Not doing so is the same as riding the clutch in a car with pedals. Driven properly you should be able to get tens of thousands of km of clutch life IMO.

Edited by quench on Monday 8th June 20:50

There’s no clutch wear when stopped whether you are in neutral or in 1st gear. The clutch is fully disengaged from the flywheel just as it would be if the clutch pedal was fully depressed while in first on a 3 pedal manual. Also, even when the paddles are both pulled into neutral while stopped, the clutch is still disengaged from the flywheel, unlike a regular manual where the clutch is engaged with the pedal released thus placing less wear on the slave cylinder. So, there can’t be any benefit to placing the trans in neutral at a light sine the clutch is open either way.

^^^^ Absolutely right. Though I always put any car in neutral to save wear on the throwout or thrust bearing that operates the clutch as this will be engaged when in gear with clutch depressed.

For a 3-pedal, whenever the clutch is disengaged the thrust bearing is in play and bears a load. This happens regardless of whether you are in gear or in neutral. But if you are in neutral, you can release the clutch pedal and take the load off the bearing.

For SSM, the clutch is disengaged at a stop with consequent bearing load in gear or in neutral, just as for the 3-pedal, the difference being you can’t release the clutch pedal when in neutral, so no saving the thrust bearing.

At a stop, as long as your foot is on the brake, the clutch is open (in gear or in neutral). The trans will shift into neutral by itself only some seconds after you take your foot off the brake pedal.

[quench]

Thanks for the clarification. Based on your explanation, it would appear that the advice I and others have heard about SS clutch wear and use of neutral is nonsense, since the thrust bearing cannot be released with SS, even when in neutral. I do not have a lot of knowledge regarding transmission design/internals - why would SS be designed in such a manner that presumably means accelerated clutch wear compared to a manual with a physical clutch pedal?

Also, I have never observed the situation you describe, where the trans will shift into neutral by itself "some seconds" after the foot brake is released. Perhaps I have not waited long enough? Is this a safety mechanism to avoid inadvertent driving off, if the car is not in motion but the brakes are not applied?

[F1NDW]

Steve is right, 10 seconds after taking your foot off the brake it goes into neutral if you are stopped.

[EVR]

If I can add to this, after some time that you are stopped in traffic, you can hear a buzz from the back, the same one you hear when you open the driver's door for the first time when unlocked.

I don't remember exactly what it was when I asked the dealer a year ago, some pump getting pressured up? Could it be gearbox-related and pertinent to this discussion?

[LiquidPT]

I just wanted to say thanks everyone. I've been reading everyone's responses, but as a new user the system is only letting me post first thing in the morning my time.

Sounds like at least the SS2 and SS3 would be fine in traffic use. And I've signed up for our local Aston owner FB group so, when I'm ready and this whole CV thing has calmed down some (so, 2024?), I'll be getting together with some local owners and checking out their cars.

[EvoOlli]

With SS2 and SS3 you should not crawl very slow, because then the clutch is dragging. You will notice that at a certain speed the clutch is fully engaged (maybe around 10km/h). So in traffic, don't catch up every meter. Better to leave a short gap and then catch up in one drive.

[WillemLongmountain]

DB9VolanteDriver said:

There’s no clutch wear when stopped whether you are in neutral or in 1st gear. The clutch is fully disengaged from the flywheel just as it would be if the clutch pedal was fully depressed while in first on a 3 pedal manual. Also, even when the paddles are both pulled into neutral while stopped, the clutch is still disengaged from the flywheel, unlike a regular manual where the clutch is engaged with the pedal released thus placing less wear on the slave cylinder. So, there can’t be any benefit to placing the trans in neutral at a light sine the clutch is open either way.

Good evening,

I hope you can help me. I just bought a 2009 Vantage 4.7 SS and parked it in garage for the winter. The garage door is just wide enough and there is a small threshold I have to cross. Because I wanted to do it carefully the first time (1st gear, neutral, 1st gear) I smelled the clutch. I don't really understand the story with the clutch gripping, as I am non technical and Dutch :-). What is the best way to drive slowly, is that just putting it in gear and then using the brake to roll the car in, or is that just not good for the clutch.

Good evening and warm regards from the Netherlands.

Willem

[CSK1]

Just put the car in gear and drive, you have to avoid reversing uphill. For this reason I reverse into my garage to park so I can drive off forward uphill onto the drive. I had a few messages and burnt clutch smells in the first few months of ownership but have learnt to be sympathetic to the gearbox and clutch and it hasn’t reoccurred since.