code 144 power supply dash pod wont turn off please help

[sean j g]

hi guys have another issue with my sag the alternator was us so changed that all fine volts reading now correct but now the dash pod will not turn off when you shut car down and it says code 144 power supply there is also a slight humming noise coming from the dash any ideas please cheers sean

[sean j g]

hi guys another development when i switch the car of the dash pod stays on but if i press the brake pedal it then goes off which seems a bit strange is there any kind of reset button because the battery went dead flat and i have changed the alternator sorry guys but being a sag owner newbie my head is going could it be the battery itself? thanks cheers sean

[LeeT350c]

Hi Sean

I would have thought RG would have been able to help with the amount they charge for an alternator!

To check the issue first do the following. Disconnect the D+ cable from the back of the alternator and keep it away from any earth! Next start the car, it will start on the battery. Whilst running touch the wire onto the D+ terminal for a second to energize the alternator. It should now be charging. Make sure the feed wire is away from any earth as it will be 12v+!!

With the wire still disconnected turn off the ignition and the pod should shut down. If it does you can resolve by doing the following:

Go to Maplin or RS and buy a rectifer diode like the one in this link http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=19079... a UK59P-P600A for £0.99p!

Next disconnect the wire from the D+ terminal on the back of the alternator (the thin one). Now the diode needs to go inline with the flow (white stripe) closest to the alternator terminal. I fit a ring crimp on one end and replace the existing ring on the feed wire with a bullet connector. Wrap it with black tape and connect.

Wont go into the technical whys but hope this helps.

Cheers. Lee.

[sean j g]

hi lee thanks for your help and info but could you just explain where i attach each end of the rectifier as this is all new to me and i am a bit confused which doesnt take much!!!cheers sean

[sean j g]

sorry lee re-read your post i think i get it know so basically put the rectifier in -line with the white end closest to alternator? i will let you know how i get on cheers sean

[Targarama]

Lee - wouldn't it be easier to solve the problem rather than fiddling around inserting components into circuit? His car didn't need this before, so why now?

Two things:

- Replace the 100A inline fuse. Even if it looks good
- Be VERY careful with any live wires in the engine bay, the engine block is an earth and all you may do is let go of a wire and you may fry something. If you are not confident do not fiddle.

[LeeT350c]

Targarama said:

Lee - wouldn't it be easier to solve the problem rather than fiddling around inserting components into circuit? His car didn't need this before, so why now?

Two things:

- Replace the 100A inline fuse. Even if it looks good
- Be VERY careful with any live wires in the engine bay, the engine block is an earth and all you may do is let go of a wire and you may fry something. If you are not confident do not fiddle.

Its the diode pack used in some replacement alternators that causes the issue.

I am told TVR were aware of this and original ones were altered to suit. Some of the dealers are also aware and undertake this mod. Effects cars without a battery light i.e. where the ECU is used to put a feed out to energize the alternator windings.

Cheers. Lee.

[LeeT350c]

Sean, if you want to confirm without disconnecting anything get a 12v bulb in a holder with two bits of wire on it.

Connect one to the D+ terminal and one to an earth like the alternator casing.

When you start the car it should run and charge and the bulb will be ON.

When you turn off, the bulb will die and go out and the ECU will shut down.

Cheers.

Lee.

[sean j g]

hi targarama i have already changed the fuse in the engine bay to a 125amp so that is already done it has to be something to do with the new alternator rather than anything else

[fredd1e]

Its not unknown for replacement alternators to be slightly dicky , they are remanufactured and it seems quality control is a bit off. Been there got the t-shirt.

[Targarama]

LeeT350c said:

Targarama said:

Lee - wouldn't it be easier to solve the problem rather than fiddling around inserting components into circuit? His car didn't need this before, so why now?

Two things:

- Replace the 100A inline fuse. Even if it looks good
- Be VERY careful with any live wires in the engine bay, the engine block is an earth and all you may do is let go of a wire and you may fry something. If you are not confident do not fiddle.

Its the diode pack used in some replacement alternators that causes the issue.

I am told TVR were aware of this and original ones were altered to suit. Some of the dealers are also aware and undertake this mod. Effects cars without a battery light i.e. where the ECU is used to put a feed out to energize the alternator windings.

Cheers. Lee.

Thanks for the info.

[bartesque]

LeeT350c said:

Its the diode pack used in some replacement alternators that causes the issue.

I am told TVR were aware of this and original ones were altered to suit. Some of the dealers are also aware and undertake this mod. Effects cars without a battery light i.e. where the ECU is used to put a feed out to energize the alternator windings.

Cheers. Lee.

This

It happened to mine last year thought that I had a dodgy alternator fitted

Autoelectrician added a diode been fine ever since

[sean j g]

just to update fitted diode now all is fine think i will replace the battery well i have everything undone and open as i think when it went flat it may have damaged a cell or 2 as i have had the battery on charge most of the day volts are running at 12.8 tick over and increasing when revd to 14/14.2 so a new battery and i know its all done BIG THANKS TO LEE FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND INFO!!! also just a quick one what size battery? thanks again cheers sean

[shep1001]

sean j g said:

just to update fitted diode now all is fine think i will replace the battery well i have everything undone and open as i think when it went flat it may have damaged a cell or 2 as i have had the battery on charge most of the day volts are running at 12.8 tick over and increasing when revd to 14/14.2 so a new battery and i know its all done BIG THANKS TO LEE FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND INFO!!! also just a quick one what size battery? thanks again cheers sean

036 round post. battery shape and dimensions vary, remember there is a lip on the battery that locates under the lug on the chassis (exhaust side) as well as the small metal plate on the other side that holds the battery down. (MOT failure for an unsecured battery IIRC)

Shep

[LeeT350c]

sean j g said:

just to update fitted diode now all is fine think i will replace the battery well i have everything undone and open as i think when it went flat it may have damaged a cell or 2 as i have had the battery on charge most of the day volts are running at 12.8 tick over and increasing when revd to 14/14.2 so a new battery and i know its all done BIG THANKS TO LEE FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND INFO!!! also just a quick one what size battery? thanks again cheers sean

Hi Sean, your welcome and glad your sorted!

A quick note to all, you can buy a re manufactured alternator for £135 delivered inc vat with 12 months warranty and do this mod if required. Can't believe the 'stealers' are charging £250 for these. Would be interested if the RG one had any stickers on it or what box it came in Sean? Message me if you don't want to post.

Cheers. Lee.

[sean j g]

thanks for info shep regards battery i will post the name on the box for you lee to let you know wish i had known about the one you said could have saved myself £100!!!! anyway its done thanks again cheers sean

[Polly Grigora]

Definitely an alternator fault, there is no way that anyone should be wiring a diode in series with the D+ cable

See https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...