Sagaris bonnet flaps/vents - anyone motorised ?
Discussion
Hi,
I am looking at motorising the bonnet vents/flaps on the Sag and was sure someone on here had done it already but I can't find the info.
So, has anyone done this and could save me re-inventing the wheel ?
I know TVR didn't bother as it kept cooking the motor which, for some reason, they put in the hottest place in the engine bay. I'm sure it's possible by moving the motor elsewhere.
Just considering the various options at the moment.
Any info/suggestions very much appreciated.
I am looking at motorising the bonnet vents/flaps on the Sag and was sure someone on here had done it already but I can't find the info.
So, has anyone done this and could save me re-inventing the wheel ?
I know TVR didn't bother as it kept cooking the motor which, for some reason, they put in the hottest place in the engine bay. I'm sure it's possible by moving the motor elsewhere.
Just considering the various options at the moment.
Any info/suggestions very much appreciated.
Strangely enough it was the LAM3 actuator I was looking at.
Only problem is it's rated at upto 60C, it's got to get hotter than that mounted above the manifold hasn't it ?
Did think of indvidual motors (small) on each flap with worm drive.
Also got to ensure the bonnet can be opened if the motor fails.
Lots to think about and experiment with.
Wasn't at all sure of the kind of pressures that would be on the flaps.
Only problem is it's rated at upto 60C, it's got to get hotter than that mounted above the manifold hasn't it ?
Did think of indvidual motors (small) on each flap with worm drive.
Also got to ensure the bonnet can be opened if the motor fails.
Lots to think about and experiment with.
Wasn't at all sure of the kind of pressures that would be on the flaps.
I've just undone the existing retaing bolt on the lower flap to see what it looks like when closed.
The seperator between the top/bottom flaps is arched, unfortunately the lower flap isn't (or is but not as much) and you get a step between the flap and the service bonnet at the top and it looks rubbish !
Looked at the LAM3 actuator, struggling to find a uk supplier. Current price is £191 + delivery.
Looking for cheaper alternative or way of doing it.
The seperator between the top/bottom flaps is arched, unfortunately the lower flap isn't (or is but not as much) and you get a step between the flap and the service bonnet at the top and it looks rubbish !
Looked at the LAM3 actuator, struggling to find a uk supplier. Current price is £191 + delivery.
Looking for cheaper alternative or way of doing it.
tvrloon said:
I've just undone the existing retaing bolt on the lower flap to see what it looks like when closed.
The seperator between the top/bottom flaps is arched, unfortunately the lower flap isn't (or is but not as much) and you get a step between the flap and the service bonnet at the top and it looks rubbish !
Looked at the LAM3 actuator, struggling to find a uk supplier. Current price is £191 + delivery.
Looking for cheaper alternative or way of doing it.
Try airThe seperator between the top/bottom flaps is arched, unfortunately the lower flap isn't (or is but not as much) and you get a step between the flap and the service bonnet at the top and it looks rubbish !
Looked at the LAM3 actuator, struggling to find a uk supplier. Current price is £191 + delivery.
Looking for cheaper alternative or way of doing it.
tvrloon said:
The real Apache said:
Try air
I've never used pneumatics at all so wouldn't have a clue what I'm looking for or what I'd need.Any pointers ? I didn't get far with finding info on your Saab suggestion above.
Edited by tvrloon on Friday 3rd September 12:58
There are some very lightweight 12v actuators around which I've used on other projects.
Might be ok for this job, I've not worked out exactly what spec is required here.
The flaps are quite light but what sort of pressure is on them when the car is moving, especially at speed ?
Temperature is another problem, many actuators max out at somehwere between 50 and 65C, I assume it's going to get hotter than that under there ?
Define the spec and work from there.
Might be ok for this job, I've not worked out exactly what spec is required here.
The flaps are quite light but what sort of pressure is on them when the car is moving, especially at speed ?
Temperature is another problem, many actuators max out at somehwere between 50 and 65C, I assume it's going to get hotter than that under there ?
Define the spec and work from there.
blueg33 said:
My thought would be to use some servos as used on rc sailing boats
Been a long time since I played with rc servos, they don't have any holding torque when unpowered which might be a problem.The flaps are approx 1kg so plenty of servos can easily exceed that, could be problems with any additional force when the car is being driven ?
Nice idea, especialy as they're easy to control.
Not sure they'd survive the environment.
I like the linear actuator approach.
I know this is an old, old topic to reply to and drag up but I came across this on YouTube and had to post it uphttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxHx1vuxzXc
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BtaZ0gGjes
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BtaZ0gGjes
Mine
Paul's
John's
One in Netherlands
Mine and Paul's run off an ECU/manual override system. The
ECU programs are slightly different as we have both tailored
them to different criteria. Mine is also being revised
for the new bonnet design.
John's uses cooling fans to trigger
One in Netherlands runs a system similar to John
Paul's
John's
One in Netherlands
Mine and Paul's run off an ECU/manual override system. The
ECU programs are slightly different as we have both tailored
them to different criteria. Mine is also being revised
for the new bonnet design.
John's uses cooling fans to trigger
One in Netherlands runs a system similar to John
Edited by alex_gray255 on Saturday 17th May 01:03
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