Some advice on driving the new Tamora smoothly
Discussion
We took delivery of the new Tamora on Friday from the factory (we live close by), and I've been grinning ever since. 
(I'm trying to get some digital piccies so that I can post them - no success yet.) I've already got sunburn on my face!
Until Friday I was a Tiv virgin, although at the moment I'm more than happy limiting the revs to about 3k because the engine sounds fantastic. I'm trying particularly hard to drive her smoothly through the gear changes, but I'm not finding this easy because she responds so differently from the MR2 (don't laugh!).
I want to drive her properly, so I'd like to ask you Tiv vets an embarrassing question.
What techniques do you use when you're changing up or down the gears during road (rather than track) driving? Do you blip the throttle between gears? When you're approaching a sharp corner, do you drop through the gears sequentially and blip the throttle each time, or do you go straight from, say, 5th to 3rd? Do you heel/toe during normal driving or double declutch? I sound like a numpty, but having read Bob Bondurant's book on performance driving, the one point he emphasises all the time is smoothness. The gear changing techniques I use are fine for the MR2, by the way, even when driving hard, but it's not exactly the same, is it? Your advice would therefore be most welcome.
By the way, is the roof panel supposed to go into the boot trailing edge up or down? The handbook says up (relatively easy to get into the boot, a bugger to seat it right down), but the factory said down (a bugger to get into the boot, easy to seat it right down).
Another by the way, the rear number plate fixing issue is still there - stopped at a service area to find one screw had come out, the other loose, and the edge of the plate had rubbed on the diffuser. I know there are plenty of threads on a solution, so I'm off the B&Q today for the plasterboard fixing screws (if my memory serves me right)!
Still, I'm on
Julian
(I'm trying to get some digital piccies so that I can post them - no success yet.) I've already got sunburn on my face! Until Friday I was a Tiv virgin, although at the moment I'm more than happy limiting the revs to about 3k because the engine sounds fantastic. I'm trying particularly hard to drive her smoothly through the gear changes, but I'm not finding this easy because she responds so differently from the MR2 (don't laugh!).
I want to drive her properly, so I'd like to ask you Tiv vets an embarrassing question.
What techniques do you use when you're changing up or down the gears during road (rather than track) driving? Do you blip the throttle between gears? When you're approaching a sharp corner, do you drop through the gears sequentially and blip the throttle each time, or do you go straight from, say, 5th to 3rd? Do you heel/toe during normal driving or double declutch? I sound like a numpty, but having read Bob Bondurant's book on performance driving, the one point he emphasises all the time is smoothness. The gear changing techniques I use are fine for the MR2, by the way, even when driving hard, but it's not exactly the same, is it? Your advice would therefore be most welcome. By the way, is the roof panel supposed to go into the boot trailing edge up or down? The handbook says up (relatively easy to get into the boot, a bugger to seat it right down), but the factory said down (a bugger to get into the boot, easy to seat it right down).
Another by the way, the rear number plate fixing issue is still there - stopped at a service area to find one screw had come out, the other loose, and the edge of the plate had rubbed on the diffuser. I know there are plenty of threads on a solution, so I'm off the B&Q today for the plasterboard fixing screws (if my memory serves me right)!
Still, I'm on
Julian
I am no expert, but I'm trying to smooth out gear changes by blipping the throttle when changing down, and at the moment, that means I'm changing down before braking. I'm trying to get used to the technique. Lots of practice is needed. Apparently the way to get the best out of TVR gearboxes in general is to bang 'em through the shifts as quickly as possible. The Tamora, like most speed6 cars, has virtually no flywheel effect, so you have to get used to careful clutch control to avoid stalling or baulking between gears. It's a lovely sunny day - why not go out and practice? 
On the number plate issue, make sure you buy lots of washers as spacers between the plate and heat shield - or expect to buy a new plate every month or so, 'cos they melt rapidly! My original fix was metal plasterboard fasteners, and it's still one of the best - the factory recently used threaded rivets on mine, which lasted about a week - I've had the heat shield off yet again to fix it. Use some threadlock as well - or it WILL come loose again!!
What colour did you go for?
>> Edited by nubbin (moderator) on Sunday 13th April 11:02
On the number plate issue, make sure you buy lots of washers as spacers between the plate and heat shield - or expect to buy a new plate every month or so, 'cos they melt rapidly! My original fix was metal plasterboard fasteners, and it's still one of the best - the factory recently used threaded rivets on mine, which lasted about a week - I've had the heat shield off yet again to fix it. Use some threadlock as well - or it WILL come loose again!!
What colour did you go for?
>> Edited by nubbin (moderator) on Sunday 13th April 11:02
nubbin said:
What colour did you go for?
___________________________________________
Many thanks for the replies. As you say, practice - isn't it hard work getting the enthusiasm to go out in the Tamora, particularly in this weather!
With regard to the colour, we went for the Halcyon Midas Pearl - the same as the factory press car. We happened to be at the factory about May last year when they'd just painted the body shell of the current press car (the previous one was green), and in the sunlight it looked fantastic. Although there are so many superb colours - we've been to the factory half a dozen times over the last few weeks or so - it was our favourite.
Oh well, better go out again......
Julian
Hi Julian, don't think I can help you with the gear changind? I just use the conventional method of right foot up, left foot down, change gear, left foot up, right foot down! Works fine for me! Wish I could heal and toe though!
To put the roof in the boot you put the front off side corner in first pointing down to the near side boot corner. I would also really recommend the following mod from robertm's site:-
www.tvrcars.biz/boot_opening.htm
It makes the boot opening larger and far easier to get the roof panel in.
Cheers.... Andrew
To put the roof in the boot you put the front off side corner in first pointing down to the near side boot corner. I would also really recommend the following mod from robertm's site:-
www.tvrcars.biz/boot_opening.htm
It makes the boot opening larger and far easier to get the roof panel in.
Cheers.... Andrew
Thoughts on driving smoothly.
I found that being aware of the level of acceleration when I'm driving my other car, or being driven by other people was very interesting in the first month or so. I was tending to accelerate rather more briskly than normal cars, or not accelerate at all and drive like an old granny.
On the gear changes, I tend to give the gearbox about half a second in neutral before engaging the new gear when changing up, and give it a little blip on the way down. The blip technique seems to be a bit more controllable than trying to hold the revs.
General consensus of opinion seems to be that there's no point working your way down through the gears if you're coming up to a tight corner. Try searching through the forums for engine braking.
I'm going to book myself on an advanced driving course soon, so I will be able to report back with greater authority then.
I found that being aware of the level of acceleration when I'm driving my other car, or being driven by other people was very interesting in the first month or so. I was tending to accelerate rather more briskly than normal cars, or not accelerate at all and drive like an old granny.
On the gear changes, I tend to give the gearbox about half a second in neutral before engaging the new gear when changing up, and give it a little blip on the way down. The blip technique seems to be a bit more controllable than trying to hold the revs.
General consensus of opinion seems to be that there's no point working your way down through the gears if you're coming up to a tight corner. Try searching through the forums for engine braking.
I'm going to book myself on an advanced driving course soon, so I will be able to report back with greater authority then.
congrats on the purchase
Nice
as for changing through the gears
dont go from 5th to 4th to 3rd etc
select the appropriate gear for the speed and go straight for it, eg brake hard for corner,off brake and straight from 5th into 3rd etc
gears are for going not stopping (or so the book says)
Nice
as for changing through the gears
dont go from 5th to 4th to 3rd etc
select the appropriate gear for the speed and go straight for it, eg brake hard for corner,off brake and straight from 5th into 3rd etc
gears are for going not stopping (or so the book says)
gemini said: congrats on the purchase
Nice
as for changing through the gears
dont go from 5th to 4th to 3rd etc
select the appropriate gear for the speed and go straight for it, eg brake hard for corner,off brake and straight from 5th into 3rd etc
gears are for going not stopping (or so the book says)
There speaks the trained Police Driver. I can only reiterate the advice.
To get a nice smooth line and ride through the corner:
[IAM]
Choose your braking point (with enough time to scrub off the speed) brake gently at first then as hard as you like to get the speed off and then lift off the brake gently. Don't just let go of the brake the car will lurch forward. Then depress the clutch and blip the throttle to raise the engine revs to a suitable amount for the gear you are about to select. Select your gear and smoothly (count 1-2-3) lift off the clutch to engage the gear. Then gently press the accelerator to keep the car's speed constant through the corner (you lose speed simply from turning otherwise).
Takes practice but its lovely and smooth.
[/IAM]
[NOT IAM]
On a track (not my area of expertise - I'm still learning) the idea would be to blend braking and downchanging using your right foot to both brake and, by twisting it) blip the throttle at the same time. This last technique (heel and toe) allows a track driver to save vital tenths of a second that on the road simply do not matter. The sequence there would be:
Brake. Still braking clutch in. Still braking twist foot to blip throttle. Engage gear whilst revs are still raised and raise clutch whilst still braking. Smoothly lift off the brake and turn in for the corner.
[/NOT IAM]
,
Another by the way, the rear number plate fixing issue is still there - stopped at a service area to find one screw had come out, the other loose, and the edge of the plate had rubbed on the diffuser. I know there are plenty of threads on a solution, so I'm off the B&Q today for the plasterboard fixing screws (if my memory serves me right)!
Julian,
I've secured mine with m10 bolts and wing nuts from one of the DIY stores. Its a bit fiddly to get the wing nuts on the back but can be done with the help of a long, thin fingered friend.
Frostie
On my Tuscan test drive I found my gearchanging very jerky to start with. It gradually smoothed off as the drive went on. I found my problem was coming off the throttle fractionally before dipping the clutch. In a normal car this was fine, in the TVR it was quite a jerk with just the slightest lift (that no flywheel effect), so I needed to make sure I dipped the clutch early/first to become smooth again.
Re smooth driving - For a lightweight, rear engined, powerful car, heel and toeing is essential to get the most out of the car. There will be times when you need to change down but maintain revs (i.e. when on a track day or pressing-on) and this technique will help you prevent the rear wheels from locking up should you change down too soon. Remember all the weight will be transferred to the front of the car so rear-wheel traction will be low.
As for the difference between going down through the gears or jumping them I think it's a matter of preference and should be dictated by the vehicle in question. Also, consider that the change from 5th to 3rd on the Tremec gearbox can be a bit notchy, the last thing you want when trying to keep a car smooth and settled is select the wrong gear or miss one completely. This is why I prefer to work my way down the 'box sequentially. It's also a lot more fun!
I would suggest that anyone considering a first go at heel-and-toeing and/or double de-clutching or left foot braking should do so on a race track or a very deserted road with plenty of room. Some of these actions are very alien the first time you try them and you could find yourself powering-on when you should be braking or planting your face in the windscreen!
As for the difference between going down through the gears or jumping them I think it's a matter of preference and should be dictated by the vehicle in question. Also, consider that the change from 5th to 3rd on the Tremec gearbox can be a bit notchy, the last thing you want when trying to keep a car smooth and settled is select the wrong gear or miss one completely. This is why I prefer to work my way down the 'box sequentially. It's also a lot more fun!
I would suggest that anyone considering a first go at heel-and-toeing and/or double de-clutching or left foot braking should do so on a race track or a very deserted road with plenty of room. Some of these actions are very alien the first time you try them and you could find yourself powering-on when you should be braking or planting your face in the windscreen!
Again, many thanks to all for the advice on driving smoothly - I'm having fun practicing now!
Thanks also for the advice on the mods - the boot mod to get the roof panel in and out more easily is particularly important, as I intend being topless at the slightest opportunity!
Here's to a great Easter weekend for driving....
Julian
Thanks also for the advice on the mods - the boot mod to get the roof panel in and out more easily is particularly important, as I intend being topless at the slightest opportunity!
Here's to a great Easter weekend for driving....
Julian
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