Battery disconnection
Discussion
I want to remove the battery, check the state of the battery box, clean up what I suspect is a rusty earth connection in the back of the passenger footwell and clean up the Anderson connector as that too is very corroded.
I have Graham Varley's manual so understand how to disconnect the battery, but I'm paranoid about having a problem with things like the dash clock and immobiliser system (META) and end up causing more trouble than I'm trying to solve.
Any useful words of advice or reassurance out there?
I have Graham Varley's manual so understand how to disconnect the battery, but I'm paranoid about having a problem with things like the dash clock and immobiliser system (META) and end up causing more trouble than I'm trying to solve.
Any useful words of advice or reassurance out there?
See if the cig lighter stays live when the key is off, if it does you can make up a lead that feeds the car with +12v, if not you could have another car battery next to the car and connect to the + and - on the battery leads (just protect the leads from shorting with elec tape - this will keep power to the ECU and clocks...not sure why they would have an issue though as there must be loads of TVR flat batteries out there.
You could also feed in via the fuse box
You could also feed in via the fuse box
If your leads are long enough I strongly recommend moving the battery round so the -ve terminal is next to the chassis. There have been cases of the +ve terminal shorting to the chassis via the heat shielding and the car going up in flames. Later cars had this configuration done by the factory.
I found it impossible to do the earth/shell cables by myself...I could lock the bolt into the shell's brass bobbin from the battery side and so keep the battery side cables locked up tight, but then because I was tightening the foot well nut and it's cables, the bolt was backing off leaving the cables loose. A@
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