T350 door opener mechanism (actuator arm position)

[Granturadriver]

The drivers door had recently problems to know if it is open or closed and therefore the window forgets to go up or down. Of course, this is not good if you want to open or close the door even though the window is all the way up. However, the window regulator itself continued to work normally.

I first opened the door thinking their might be something wrong. However, everything looked fine and I additionally learned the there is no window encoder in the door (like in Tuscans Mk I the encoder ME0424 or in Mk II encoder ME674).



I than opened the door hatch mechanism. The upper and lower bolds fix it to the body, the two inner bolds fix the machanism to the top plate.

.

After I loosened all the screws, of course everything fell apart, especially the actuator arm (ME0481) fell out.

But you can see on the microswitch where the actuator arm is suspended. The arm then protrudes into the mechanism, so it is pushed when the mechanism closes. When the actuator is pressed, the microswitch is actuated.



I am now wondering what is the correct angle or bend of the Actuator Arm. Should it be completely straight or slightly bent like mine?

Edited by Granturadriver on Sunday 19th March 13:40

[brownspeed]

Dunno, but interested in
1) what you find out
2) what size the screws are on the mounting; mine are all rounded off- drilling out and replacing with new is on my "to do" list

good luck- of course

[Adrian@]

(Tamora/T350/Sagaris). The encoder is the wired unit held onto the side of the motor (there are two versions, but both worked on my Tamora) the arm is straight (the hole in the alloy is there for you to hold it closed during assembly) and as these are not magnetic fill the shell cavity so as not to lose it (I lost one), I used a towel.
There is a magnetic ring on the armature shaft that the encoder senses.
I have changed all the door locks, micro switches, alloy plate on my drivers side (as the 2mm screws had failed) with lots of pictures on my FB page. A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 19th March 16:39

[Granturadriver]

Thanks, Adrian.

So, the yellow thing is the encoder than?


Is that one of the two encoders mentioned for the Tuscan?

It seems if you buy the window motor that the encoder is already integrated, see here:


https://motaclan.com/index.php/product/window-regu...

[Granturadriver]

All bolds need a 4mm nut.

The outer bolds are 20 mm long (total length). The inner are ca. twice the length.

[Granturadriver]

Adrian, as I am not on facebook, could you help with some pictures of the arm mechanism situation?

[Adrian@]

I have broken the component down gearbox/transmission/armature/brushes/encoder parts that you can buy into/source , but posting it here will only get it misunderstood in years to come. Also I have all the bits that I dismantled around me or what was on my car (as mine is fully refurbished now). A@

[Granturadriver]

Some amendments to this topic:

The longer bolts are 40mm long.

Here is a pic of the microswitch with the actuator arm fitted:

The angel is fine, it works.

Here is a picture of the mechanism‘s back. Here you can see the opening through which the latch protrudes when closed, actuating the actuator.

[Granturadriver]

I am starting to change the microswitch but I wonder why the spare part has 3 cables (black, grey, blue, see below) and the old switch is driven by 2 cables (black, grey, see above)?



I wonder if the third, blue cable was simply cut off when installed?

[Adrian@]

Yes, BUT is it the right switch in relation to the lever arm...before you chop it about (mine was bought from a TVR trader but were wrong and new arms were needed, which was a GOOD thing, as then I did not loose another arm into the sill). A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 8th June 13:58

[Magicmushroom666]

You can just cut the spare cable off, but personally I'd want to confirm what ones you need to use on the new switch using a multimeter if you have one. One wire will be the common (always used) then one will be normally open (open circuit when the switch isn't pressed) and one normally closed (linked to the common when the switch isn't pressed).

You'd have to test the old switch to see if its closed or open then use the appropriate one from the new.

Alternatively you could make a temporary connection to the car before you cut anything off, and make sure it works before trimming off the unused cable. probably best to seal the cut end if you can with something to prolong its life.

[Granturadriver]

Some updates on this:

Yes, there was a blue cable with the original switch which was cut:

[Granturadriver]

Here some pics of the microswitch and its position, it is installed on an additional bracket.

Edited by Granturadriver on Saturday 10th June 14:38

[Granturadriver]

Finally the bracket for the actuator arm was worn out. In addition to the pin that the arm is guided in, there are two elevations that restrict the movement of the arm. Here are pictures of the old and new switch, and a picture of the range of motion (blue arrow).

[Granturadriver]

I have made the connection first of all only with a luster terminal to see if the mechanism works still when installed.

Now I will shorten the cables a little and then solder them.

[Adrian@]

Having replaced both door locks and one of the back plates, helicoiled threads, replaced screws. This version was supplied via either Motaclan or TVR Power (I found that it was easier to work with too as the arm did not flick off as I assembled/tested/checked/reassembled several times (I bought several arms for the other version that are now lost in the shell)



A@