Non-Running - thinking no fuel
Discussion
Right, so Tamy stopped running.
Battery is full and new.
She cranks fine.
Dash goes through start up panto fine.
She runs if on easy start but then cuts out.
Inertia switch is 'closed'.
So on to the white plug atop the fuel tank. Three pairs of wires. I am assuming all black wires are earths. At the tang / clip end green with black flash and a black. The next two pairs are yellow with black flash and a black.
Green and black pair have 4.5V - I assume this is the fuel level indicator connection to the dash / ecu. No continuity.
Middle pair of yellow and black have no power and no continuity. This could be because I have only one pump and these are not connected and redundant in the loom.
Bottom pair of yellow and black have no power but continuity.
I have tried a bulb indicator plugged into both yellow pairs to see if the power to prime the system is being sent down and no illumination.
I also have fuel weeping out from the plug, bolts and side of the cover plate so need to address this too.
I couldn't find the small plug lurking in the wiring loom that is mentioned in other threads on this matter.
I am going to do the TVR headstand and check all the fuses and relays on the board.
Anything else to check? As the car cranks I assume that the immobiliser is working fine.
Finally, does anyone know what pins are used in the white plug on top of the tank? Racing Green sell the plug without pins but don't identify the pins.
Thank you.
Battery is full and new.
She cranks fine.
Dash goes through start up panto fine.
She runs if on easy start but then cuts out.
Inertia switch is 'closed'.
So on to the white plug atop the fuel tank. Three pairs of wires. I am assuming all black wires are earths. At the tang / clip end green with black flash and a black. The next two pairs are yellow with black flash and a black.
Green and black pair have 4.5V - I assume this is the fuel level indicator connection to the dash / ecu. No continuity.
Middle pair of yellow and black have no power and no continuity. This could be because I have only one pump and these are not connected and redundant in the loom.
Bottom pair of yellow and black have no power but continuity.
I have tried a bulb indicator plugged into both yellow pairs to see if the power to prime the system is being sent down and no illumination.
I also have fuel weeping out from the plug, bolts and side of the cover plate so need to address this too.
I couldn't find the small plug lurking in the wiring loom that is mentioned in other threads on this matter.
I am going to do the TVR headstand and check all the fuses and relays on the board.
Anything else to check? As the car cranks I assume that the immobiliser is working fine.
Finally, does anyone know what pins are used in the white plug on top of the tank? Racing Green sell the plug without pins but don't identify the pins.
Thank you.
Just checked on myT350 and you are correct, the engine will not crank if the immobilser is not cleared.
Can you hear the fuel pump prime after you press the immobilser button? I believe it is on a timed relay which runs for about a second then cuts out until enabled by the MBE once the engine is running.
What do you mean by "easy start"?
S
Can you hear the fuel pump prime after you press the immobilser button? I believe it is on a timed relay which runs for about a second then cuts out until enabled by the MBE once the engine is running.
What do you mean by "easy start"?
S
Bloody daft question - have you locked and unlocked the car to release the immobiliser?
Or perhaps it doesn't work like that on a Tamora. Pardon my ignorance.
My car suddenly stalled and wouldn't restart in the middle of three lanes at a roundabout recently.
Called Mat Smith, he said to lock and unlock, and it burst into life again.
Or perhaps it doesn't work like that on a Tamora. Pardon my ignorance.
My car suddenly stalled and wouldn't restart in the middle of three lanes at a roundabout recently.
Called Mat Smith, he said to lock and unlock, and it burst into life again.
Relay has two coils and two N/O contacts so 5 seconds from ecu energises one coil, gives the pump time to prime then, assumes it does, when engine starts ecu energises second coil and power to the second coil, engine run signal etc.
You can wedge your head in the foot well and get someone to turn the key (trust worthy type to turn key as starting in gear would not be good) and listen for the clicks.
j
You can wedge your head in the foot well and get someone to turn the key (trust worthy type to turn key as starting in gear would not be good) and listen for the clicks.
j
mk1fan said:
Does anyone know if the 5-pin fuel pump relay should be an 87a change over relay or an 87b switching relay?
Hello mateyThe relay is as shown in the above image that shows 2 x 87 terminals. The thing is, the fuel pump relay is very special, there is a diode in series with the relay coil
Relay should be a dual output one where both 87 and 87b are closed (powered) when the relay is energised.
From memory when I put the relays back in round the wrong way a while back, if you put a normal single switching relay in, it only powers one of the 2 fuel pumps and so sounds different when they prime with initial ignition switch on.
From memory when I put the relays back in round the wrong way a while back, if you put a normal single switching relay in, it only powers one of the 2 fuel pumps and so sounds different when they prime with initial ignition switch on.
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