Discussion
Drive it. Enjoy it.
Start reading through this forum.
Plenty of small mods to make things easier / better / fun.
Personally, MGF / TF rear view mirror is a first one for me. Proper useful interior lighting. Can combine with a timer relay to provide delayed turn off like a modern car. Unless you have a Sag spoiler, in which case remove the rear view mirror.
Second is relocating the heater module into the cool air flow under the glovebox and putting a plug that can handle to current. Whilst the glovebox is out, then seal up the grp to stop dust.
Third is swapping the bulkhead earth point in the passenger footwell for a proper secured stud with bolted fixings. and then replacing the 80 and 100amp strip fuses with midi ones (or using marine circuit breakers).
Reg Varley's Sagaris manual is [expensive for one] useful and has a lot of info, tips and mods.
Few FBook groups too. T car, T350, Tamora Tuscan T350 and sag, etc....
Start reading through this forum.
Plenty of small mods to make things easier / better / fun.
Personally, MGF / TF rear view mirror is a first one for me. Proper useful interior lighting. Can combine with a timer relay to provide delayed turn off like a modern car. Unless you have a Sag spoiler, in which case remove the rear view mirror.
Second is relocating the heater module into the cool air flow under the glovebox and putting a plug that can handle to current. Whilst the glovebox is out, then seal up the grp to stop dust.
Third is swapping the bulkhead earth point in the passenger footwell for a proper secured stud with bolted fixings. and then replacing the 80 and 100amp strip fuses with midi ones (or using marine circuit breakers).
Reg Varley's Sagaris manual is [expensive for one] useful and has a lot of info, tips and mods.
Few FBook groups too. T car, T350, Tamora Tuscan T350 and sag, etc....
mk1fan said:
Drive it. Enjoy it.
Start reading through this forum.
Plenty of small mods to make things easier / better / fun.
Personally, MGF / TF rear view mirror is a first one for me. Proper useful interior lighting. Can combine with a timer relay to provide delayed turn off like a modern car. Unless you have a Sag spoiler, in which case remove the rear view mirror.
Second is relocating the heater module into the cool air flow under the glovebox and putting a plug that can handle to current. Whilst the glovebox is out, then seal up the grp to stop dust.
Third is swapping the bulkhead earth point in the passenger footwell for a proper secured stud with bolted fixings. and then replacing the 80 and 100amp strip fuses with midi ones (or using marine circuit breakers).
Reg Varley's Sagaris manual is [expensive for one] useful and has a lot of info, tips and mods.
Few FBook groups too. T car, T350, Tamora Tuscan T350 and sag, etc....
Wasn’t he into buses?Start reading through this forum.
Plenty of small mods to make things easier / better / fun.
Personally, MGF / TF rear view mirror is a first one for me. Proper useful interior lighting. Can combine with a timer relay to provide delayed turn off like a modern car. Unless you have a Sag spoiler, in which case remove the rear view mirror.
Second is relocating the heater module into the cool air flow under the glovebox and putting a plug that can handle to current. Whilst the glovebox is out, then seal up the grp to stop dust.
Third is swapping the bulkhead earth point in the passenger footwell for a proper secured stud with bolted fixings. and then replacing the 80 and 100amp strip fuses with midi ones (or using marine circuit breakers).
Reg Varley's Sagaris manual is [expensive for one] useful and has a lot of info, tips and mods.
Few FBook groups too. T car, T350, Tamora Tuscan T350 and sag, etc....
Many thanks for the help, I’ll have a look at these items - is Varleys book online?
Check it's got a brown plastic case fuel pump relay with diode in series with the coil winding, replace with new one
If it hasn't got the above special relay fitted, fit one
If the engine doesn't run after fitting the correct relay, remove relay and fit new one the same as the one that was removed
There was a big problem recently with a brown relay not activating due to the fusebox termination, the diode makes the relay operation dependant on the polarity of terminals 85 and 86
Oh another thing, look for a cheap fusebox to keep as a spare, they're a nightmare when playing up, it's a Porsche fusebox
If it hasn't got the above special relay fitted, fit one
If the engine doesn't run after fitting the correct relay, remove relay and fit new one the same as the one that was removed
There was a big problem recently with a brown relay not activating due to the fusebox termination, the diode makes the relay operation dependant on the polarity of terminals 85 and 86
Oh another thing, look for a cheap fusebox to keep as a spare, they're a nightmare when playing up, it's a Porsche fusebox
MK_tamora said:
Drive it and get used to it, above all ENJOY IT! Worry about tinkering if/when it needs it.
HTH
That’ll be the start off! I’ve nearly finished the project cars so am fast forwarding 33 years of TVR here! It’ll be strange not hunting on eBay for escort or zephyr parts....HTH
Also check the state of the Anderson battery connectors. If they are rotten, then they must be replaced asap, else your new investment/POJ may turn into a BBQ.
It has happened to a few cars over the years.
The battery is "logically" located around the passenger front wheel at the front - just around the wheel
arch - right inline with all the road crud...
It has happened to a few cars over the years.
The battery is "logically" located around the passenger front wheel at the front - just around the wheel
arch - right inline with all the road crud...
Edited by alex_gray255 on Sunday 24th May 20:53
Edited by alex_gray255 on Sunday 24th May 20:53
1 - Fuel lines are an issue if they are original or old and cracked, if there is no proof they have been replaced get them done now - fire risk
2 - Anderson connector under the car can come to pieces and short to the chassis, if its cracked/damaged/corroded replace it now - fire risk
3 - and the Battery positive terminal can earth to the metalised heat blanket. Either get the battery leads lengthened and change for a battery with the terminals the other way round or (as I have had done) get some rubber boots on the positive terminal so it can't short out. - fire risk
Other than that, tyres need to be less than 5 years old, a good full geo set up with corner weighting will help the car handle like it should, get the various control ecu's/raz/breakout board etc off to Jody at Python Racing (especially the heater amp) so they work like new.
... Drive it... :-)
2 - Anderson connector under the car can come to pieces and short to the chassis, if its cracked/damaged/corroded replace it now - fire risk
3 - and the Battery positive terminal can earth to the metalised heat blanket. Either get the battery leads lengthened and change for a battery with the terminals the other way round or (as I have had done) get some rubber boots on the positive terminal so it can't short out. - fire risk
Other than that, tyres need to be less than 5 years old, a good full geo set up with corner weighting will help the car handle like it should, get the various control ecu's/raz/breakout board etc off to Jody at Python Racing (especially the heater amp) so they work like new.
... Drive it... :-)
robsco said:
Be extremely careful when fuelling up as the filler cap cannot handle high flow! Trickle the fuel in very steady otherwise most of it will end up on the rear wing.
also when you open the fuel cap, you will naturally want to see the ball valve open. Try to avoid keeping your face within spitting distance of the opening since it can spit back fuel due to pressure build up when warmed up.
leef44 said:
also when you open the fuel cap, you will naturally want to see the ball valve open. Try to avoid keeping your face within spitting distance of the opening since it can spit back fuel due to pressure build up when warmed up.
I try to remember to use a cloth covering the filler when opening and around the nozzle when filling as a splashback burp is often difficult to avoid. I recall a while ago someone attempted to reduce the potential obstructions in the filler neck to tank to reduce the blow back potential but the details have left my memory.
leerdam23 said:
1 - Fuel lines are an issue if they are original or old and cracked, if there is no proof they have been replaced get them done now - fire risk
2 - Anderson connector under the car can come to pieces and short to the chassis, if its cracked/damaged/corroded replace it now - fire risk
3 - and the Battery positive terminal can earth to the metalised heat blanket. Either get the battery leads lengthened and change for a battery with the terminals the other way round or (as I have had done) get some rubber boots on the positive terminal so it can't short out. - fire risk
Other than that, tyres need to be less than 5 years old, a good full geo set up with corner weighting will help the car handle like it should, get the various control ecu's/raz/breakout board etc off to Jody at Python Racing (especially the heater amp) so they work like new.
... Drive it... :-)
Everything above. I've just seen pictures of my old 350 that I sold last year. Engine fire, most likely form a ruptured fuel line judging by the main hotspot. Definitely get it checked.2 - Anderson connector under the car can come to pieces and short to the chassis, if its cracked/damaged/corroded replace it now - fire risk
3 - and the Battery positive terminal can earth to the metalised heat blanket. Either get the battery leads lengthened and change for a battery with the terminals the other way round or (as I have had done) get some rubber boots on the positive terminal so it can't short out. - fire risk
Other than that, tyres need to be less than 5 years old, a good full geo set up with corner weighting will help the car handle like it should, get the various control ecu's/raz/breakout board etc off to Jody at Python Racing (especially the heater amp) so they work like new.
... Drive it... :-)
Also, try and ensure the halftime bearing is replaced with an uprated one if it hasn't already had a rebuild.
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