Levelling the seats
Discussion
OK, so not quite. I managed to level my drivers seat by about 60% compared to the original tilt. Not been for a drive yet but it feels a lot better than being forced to lean into the centre console. I'm quite tall so didn't level it any more as my head gets closer to the roof trim to more I adjust it.
I unbolt the seat and lifted it up/sideways (found out that the seat belt is bolted to the seat at both side and only anchored to the floor directly by the reel!?!). Anyway, the spacers tilting the seat inwards are easy to see. You need to unbolt the runners to take some of them out. Unfortunately the rear bolt on mine needed pliers on the inside to undo - and typical TVR build stylee, they glued the seat base on top of this. So I could not get the runners/spacers off. Instead I put some of the same size washers on the other side. Hey presto, more level than before. Pretty easy job to do and the top of the seat doesn't really rub agains't the roll cage trim too much (I adjusted the seat to position while pushing the trim out of the way).
If you're less lanky then I, I reckon you could level the seat completely. You will probably need longer bolts if you have to do what I did and add spacers to the opposite side instead of taking them out of the original spaced side.
When the warmer weather comes I'll do my passenger side and see if I can get the seat base out to hold the runner nut while I undo it and remove the spacers instead.
>>> Edited by targarama on Sunday 12th December 17:46
>>> Edited by targarama on Sunday 12th December 17:47
I unbolt the seat and lifted it up/sideways (found out that the seat belt is bolted to the seat at both side and only anchored to the floor directly by the reel!?!). Anyway, the spacers tilting the seat inwards are easy to see. You need to unbolt the runners to take some of them out. Unfortunately the rear bolt on mine needed pliers on the inside to undo - and typical TVR build stylee, they glued the seat base on top of this. So I could not get the runners/spacers off. Instead I put some of the same size washers on the other side. Hey presto, more level than before. Pretty easy job to do and the top of the seat doesn't really rub agains't the roll cage trim too much (I adjusted the seat to position while pushing the trim out of the way).
If you're less lanky then I, I reckon you could level the seat completely. You will probably need longer bolts if you have to do what I did and add spacers to the opposite side instead of taking them out of the original spaced side.
When the warmer weather comes I'll do my passenger side and see if I can get the seat base out to hold the runner nut while I undo it and remove the spacers instead.
>>> Edited by targarama on Sunday 12th December 17:46
>>> Edited by targarama on Sunday 12th December 17:47
Hi all!
Just to let you know I had a go at this on Boxing day..... only I went a little step further!
As has been said, you cant get to the lock-nut on the rear runner bolt(I tried for over an hour!) Its actually sandwiched between the steel sub-frame of the seat and the GRP seat mould. In the end I took a very small tank-cutter (about 12mm)and cut through the GRP from above the lock nut so that I could get a socket in. Sounds a bit drastic, but if your careful and do it neatly, it works a treat! Have now removed all the spacer washers and the seat is now level, with no clearance problems against the roll cage!
To be honest, I'm not really sure why they fitted the spacers in the first place.... anyone know?!!
By the way, I also fitted some softer foam in the seat cushion - I now sit a little bit lower in the seat, which I find a bit comfier, and a lot more supportive!
>> Edited by mjc on Thursday 30th December 23:05
Just to let you know I had a go at this on Boxing day..... only I went a little step further!
As has been said, you cant get to the lock-nut on the rear runner bolt(I tried for over an hour!) Its actually sandwiched between the steel sub-frame of the seat and the GRP seat mould. In the end I took a very small tank-cutter (about 12mm)and cut through the GRP from above the lock nut so that I could get a socket in. Sounds a bit drastic, but if your careful and do it neatly, it works a treat! Have now removed all the spacer washers and the seat is now level, with no clearance problems against the roll cage!
To be honest, I'm not really sure why they fitted the spacers in the first place.... anyone know?!!
By the way, I also fitted some softer foam in the seat cushion - I now sit a little bit lower in the seat, which I find a bit comfier, and a lot more supportive!
>> Edited by mjc on Thursday 30th December 23:05
a picture paints a thousand words...
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=13813&id=18700
More accurately known as a "holesaw", but commonly known as a tank cutter....
( a proper tank cutter looks like this...)
www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/PRI400.html
www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=13813&id=18700
More accurately known as a "holesaw", but commonly known as a tank cutter....
( a proper tank cutter looks like this...)
www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/PRI400.html
mjc said:
I cut through the GRP from above the lock nut; I'm not really sure why they fitted the spacers in the first place.... anyone know?!!
Are the spacers are there to spread the load onto the fibreglass? What did you do with the hole that you cut in the fibreglass? Exposed fibreglass attracts water which once in softens and cannot be removed by any method.
The spacers are nothing to do with the bolts going through the floor (which is steel reinforced now, unlike the Chimaera/Griffith). Their sole purpose is to tilt the seats inwards so the headrest does not collide with the trim around the roll cage.
The drilling mentioned here is to the GRP of the seat base, not the floor of the car.
The drilling mentioned here is to the GRP of the seat base, not the floor of the car.
Just an update on this topic - following mjc's pointers I cut a hole in my drivers seat to get at the other side of the nut/bolt to remove the runner. Easy enough, just a bit fiddly at times. Drivers seat now level. (I used a normal drill bit and a bit of 'sideways' drilling.)
I can confirm that by doing this, the seat doesn't get any closer to the roll cage trim, in fact it seems to rub slightly less if anything. Also I'm 1cm or so lower in the car (handy when you're lanky). I think my head is a little more likely to hit the trim under extreme bumps/unexpected undulations in the road. It's ultra padded and a few cm in from the roll cage anyway so no problem really.
Just need to do the other side (when I remember to park in the garage the other way round so I can get that door wide open to remove the seat ..).
I can confirm that by doing this, the seat doesn't get any closer to the roll cage trim, in fact it seems to rub slightly less if anything. Also I'm 1cm or so lower in the car (handy when you're lanky). I think my head is a little more likely to hit the trim under extreme bumps/unexpected undulations in the road. It's ultra padded and a few cm in from the roll cage anyway so no problem really.
Just need to do the other side (when I remember to park in the garage the other way round so I can get that door wide open to remove the seat ..).
Gassing Station | Tamora, T350 & Sagaris | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff