T350 RR Spec Brakes
Discussion
No, but if the discs are any bigger then it's going to be a bugger to clean the wheels properly.
Have you found the std T350 brakes wanting on a track? When I upgraded my Chimaera to 285mm 4 pot front brakes I couldn't cook them however hard I tried. Mind you, it only mean't the next weakest point was the std suspension cooking the tyres instead. I have yet to take my T350 on a track.
Have you found the std T350 brakes wanting on a track? When I upgraded my Chimaera to 285mm 4 pot front brakes I couldn't cook them however hard I tried. Mind you, it only mean't the next weakest point was the std suspension cooking the tyres instead. I have yet to take my T350 on a track.
Hi Trefor,
I thought about the wheel cleaning, and it will make it harder to do without taking them off regularly, which I tend to any way.
I have found the brakes wanting on track days recently with the odd dreaded wooden pedal more than once. After two sets of front pads in 7500 miles, one set of rears, and now knackerd front discs I thought abought a change in pad material. Looking at the badly groved blue tinted discs on the front, I thought something a little more radical was required. I've choosing the RR option as a logical step-up at a reasonable cost.
I can't really criticise the standard set up, it encourages late braking and inspires loads of confidence, but I think thats why the're knackered
I thought about the wheel cleaning, and it will make it harder to do without taking them off regularly, which I tend to any way.
I have found the brakes wanting on track days recently with the odd dreaded wooden pedal more than once. After two sets of front pads in 7500 miles, one set of rears, and now knackerd front discs I thought abought a change in pad material. Looking at the badly groved blue tinted discs on the front, I thought something a little more radical was required. I've choosing the RR option as a logical step-up at a reasonable cost.
I can't really criticise the standard set up, it encourages late braking and inspires loads of confidence, but I think thats why the're knackered
I have tracked my 350 a few times now and would say that the std brakes are pretty good up to a point. I must say that I have found the limiting factor to be the temperature of oil and water. Even on a 23 degree day these became high enough to trigger warnings after about 15 mins hard driving. Have you had the same problem?
>> Edited by abailey on Monday 19th July 17:41
>> Edited by abailey on Monday 19th July 17:41
Daftlad - sounds like you're doing the right thing then. Have you also looked at changing friction material? (I found Ferodo DS2500 really good for road and track use, but maybe you need something a little more track biased). If you're such a track monster then maybe there is something more appropriate out there.
Brakes only slow you down ...
Brakes only slow you down ...
maddog-uk said:
Dumb question.
What do you use to jack the car up with and where are the jacking points? How much torque do you use when refit the wheels!
I need to buy a socket set and jack etc so need tips!
I use a hydraulic trolley jack but there is a sequence used to get the car lifted first. Piece of wood in front of or behind wheel, drive onto it then fit jack under chassis. (using protective barrier to ensure chassis coating is not damaged). Torque settings unsure, I just make sure the nuts are good and tight using a normal wrench from a decent socket set.
ABAILEY
I have a red Rose T350 and mine is exactly the same. 15 mins of "fast" tracktime and the oil gets too hot and water temp also. You do not have a problem methinks. Don't know why other cars don't do it and I don't know how hard others drive theirs.
The T350 does have a problem with cooling airflow around the engine with no radiator grill just the 2 vents at the front and no bonnet vents. I think this is something TVR are aware of and has been obviously addressed with the Sagaris!
I have a red Rose T350 and mine is exactly the same. 15 mins of "fast" tracktime and the oil gets too hot and water temp also. You do not have a problem methinks. Don't know why other cars don't do it and I don't know how hard others drive theirs.
The T350 does have a problem with cooling airflow around the engine with no radiator grill just the 2 vents at the front and no bonnet vents. I think this is something TVR are aware of and has been obviously addressed with the Sagaris!
barefoot said:
ABAILEY
I have a red Rose T350 and mine is exactly the same. 15 mins of "fast" tracktime and the oil gets too hot and water temp also. You do not have a problem methinks. Don't know why other cars don't do it and I don't know how hard others drive theirs.
The T350 does have a problem with cooling airflow around the engine with no radiator grill just the 2 vents at the front and no bonnet vents. I think this is something TVR are aware of and has been obviously addressed with the Sagaris!
Car is warmed up properly, and then driven probably the same as yours "fast". I have considered a bonnet mod that opens up the two vents at the back and also manifold lagging. I agree, they do run hotter than they should when driven as they should!
However, no alarms for high oil or water yet.
Back to the original thread, how do your brakes cope and what linings are you using?
daftlad
The brakes are brill with no fade whatsoever and as you will know braking is where most time is made on a track against fast cars. The car outbrakes most Scoobys Evos etc only the "Caterfields" are better. On saying that mine seems to be set up with too much rear bias as the backs can lock a bit too early.
As for the overheating mine is a 400 bhp 3.6 that has the red light on at 8,000 rpm, rev limiter is 8,200. I will have the red light on in every gear with the occassional 2nd gear cut out for the full 15 min spell, so maybe your fast is not the same as mine?!
The brakes are brill with no fade whatsoever and as you will know braking is where most time is made on a track against fast cars. The car outbrakes most Scoobys Evos etc only the "Caterfields" are better. On saying that mine seems to be set up with too much rear bias as the backs can lock a bit too early.
As for the overheating mine is a 400 bhp 3.6 that has the red light on at 8,000 rpm, rev limiter is 8,200. I will have the red light on in every gear with the occassional 2nd gear cut out for the full 15 min spell, so maybe your fast is not the same as mine?!
barefoot said:
daftlad
The brakes are brill with no fade whatsoever and as you will know braking is where most time is made on a track against fast cars. The car outbrakes most Scoobys Evos etc only the "Caterfields" are better. On saying that mine seems to be set up with too much rear bias as the backs can lock a bit too early.
As for the overheating mine is a 400 bhp 3.6 that has the red light on at 8,000 rpm, rev limiter is 8,200. I will have the red light on in every gear with the occassional 2nd gear cut out for the full 15 min spell, so maybe your fast is not the same as mine?!
Interesting what you say about the back brake, as most of the cost of the upgrade is in the bigger discs and associated upright change out for the rear
As for the fast bit, suspect you probably are much quicker, probably have the same power from a 3.6, same rev limiter set-up but I do tend to be ...steady.
daftlad said:
(using protective barrier to ensure chassis coating is not damaged).
OK I know I am learning, so forgive me! E.g wood or something else? I presume the block is to get the height to get the jack under, but what size is the block.
I am quite looking forward to trying this out!
maddog-uk said:
(using protective barrier to ensure chassis coating is not damaged).
OK I know I am learning, so forgive me! E.g wood or something else? I presume the block is to get the height to get the jack under, but what size is the block.
I am quite looking forward to trying this out!
I use something around 1 1/2" thick, just sufficient to get the trolley jack under. The pretective layer is just a piece of old rubber matting. The size of the block depends on the height of your trolley jack. Mine was bought to get a jack underneath a Tuscan racer I used to own, which incidently, wasn't as low as the T350!! No problems with the learning thing, thats what the forums for........ Geuss the next question will be what do you use to clean the backs of the wheels.
I understand that the aftermarket brake upgrade for the T350 only needs to upgrade the front as upgrading the backs tends to provide too much braking to the rear (which is plenty good enough as it is) and locks the rears under heavy braking. As an alternative to increasing the front disk diameter, TVR were looking at increasing the pad surface area (different calipers?) although I'm not sure why they would want to go this route.
BR
Rich
>> Edited by ricardo on Tuesday 20th July 12:32
BR
Rich
>> Edited by ricardo on Tuesday 20th July 12:32
ricardo said:
I understand that the aftermarket brake upgrade for the T350 only needs to upgrade the front as upgrading the backs tends to provide too much braking to the rear (which is plenty good enough as it is) and locks the rears under heavy braking. As an alternative to increasing the front disk diameter, TVR were looking at increasing the pad surface area (different calipers?) although I'm not sure why they would want to go this route.
BR
Rich
>> Edited by ricardo on Tuesday 20th July 12:32
Rich,
Kit is coming from the factory who have recommended the front and rears are fitted. The rears are lacking a little and certainly shouldnt have shot pads down to nothing in 7500 miles IMO. Will fit as it comes and maybe look at fitting a brake bias valve - if there is rear lock-up. Fitting at the end of the month, Oulton mid August, so I can let you know much of an improvement it is over standard....
daftlad said:
Rich,
Kit is coming from the factory who have recommended the front and rears are fitted. The rears are lacking a little and certainly shouldnt have shot pads down to nothing in 7500 miles IMO. Will fit as it comes and maybe look at fitting a brake bias valve - if there is rear lock-up. Fitting at the end of the month, Oulton mid August, so I can let you know much of an improvement it is over standard....
Let me know how you get on, I'm thinking of upgrading mine (trying to get as good as the AP disks I had on the 4.5 Cerbera). How much for the kit if you don't mind me asking?
Rich
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