Monaro front camber
Discussion
I had a four wheel alignment carried out yesterday, as the car pulls slightly to the left even on a flat road without any road camber.
The front toe was out as both sides were -0’12, this was adjusted to 0’06. Total toe is now 0’12.
The problem is the camber.
The front near side camber is -0’12 and would not adjust even though the lower two adjustable bolts were slackened off to move the strut.
The front offside camber was ok at -0’42.
The rear settings were all fine and not touched.
The issue I have is the car still has a slight pull to the left (presumably because the camber is out)
I was thinking of fitting adjustable camber bolts to see if this would fix the problem.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
John.
The front toe was out as both sides were -0’12, this was adjusted to 0’06. Total toe is now 0’12.
The problem is the camber.
The front near side camber is -0’12 and would not adjust even though the lower two adjustable bolts were slackened off to move the strut.
The front offside camber was ok at -0’42.
The rear settings were all fine and not touched.
The issue I have is the car still has a slight pull to the left (presumably because the camber is out)
I was thinking of fitting adjustable camber bolts to see if this would fix the problem.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
John.
The camber is adjusted using the camber bolt that's in the spindle.
This thing has a habit of corroding up spectacularly well, and it's a terrible little hex headed bolt. See the pic below, the top of the 2 strut bolts is still in place (going left to right in the picture) and the camber bolt is clearly visible at the top of the spindle where it is squeezed between the strut
You loosen off the two strut bolts, adjust the camber bolt (it literally just sticks out the back of the spindle and thus limits how much you can press it in towards the strut) and then holding it in position, tighten the strut bolts back up.
These are the crusty bolts tidied up a bit. The heads are not quite 8mm and not quite 5/16th, so applying any force to them is a nightmare once they're stuck in there.
As it's just an M10 thread, I replace mine with some much chunkier old exhaust bolts I found laying around, so I now have a 17mm hex head to abuse should I want to adjust the camber further.
Normally toe is what would make the car pull, I'm not sure how much a mismatch in camber would impact it, but if that's all that is out of balance I guess it must be that.
Let me know if you need any more pictures of things, I probably have more in my build thread I could copy in for context. Max camber you can managed with standard strut suspension (i.e. not coilovers) is about -1.5* to -2* maybe, before the tyre rubs against the spring seat.
This thing has a habit of corroding up spectacularly well, and it's a terrible little hex headed bolt. See the pic below, the top of the 2 strut bolts is still in place (going left to right in the picture) and the camber bolt is clearly visible at the top of the spindle where it is squeezed between the strut
You loosen off the two strut bolts, adjust the camber bolt (it literally just sticks out the back of the spindle and thus limits how much you can press it in towards the strut) and then holding it in position, tighten the strut bolts back up.
These are the crusty bolts tidied up a bit. The heads are not quite 8mm and not quite 5/16th, so applying any force to them is a nightmare once they're stuck in there.
As it's just an M10 thread, I replace mine with some much chunkier old exhaust bolts I found laying around, so I now have a 17mm hex head to abuse should I want to adjust the camber further.
Normally toe is what would make the car pull, I'm not sure how much a mismatch in camber would impact it, but if that's all that is out of balance I guess it must be that.
Let me know if you need any more pictures of things, I probably have more in my build thread I could copy in for context. Max camber you can managed with standard strut suspension (i.e. not coilovers) is about -1.5* to -2* maybe, before the tyre rubs against the spring seat.
Looks like you have it under control.
I thought there was something out there, as I am sure I remember somebody else fitting them in my forum travels.
K-MAC have been around for a long time.
OEM coils
https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/product/holden-commo...
FITS Coil Overs 60 to 70 I.D
https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/product/holden-commo...
I thought there was something out there, as I am sure I remember somebody else fitting them in my forum travels.
K-MAC have been around for a long time.
OEM coils
https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/product/holden-commo...
FITS Coil Overs 60 to 70 I.D
https://k-mac-camber-kits.com/product/holden-commo...
mfp4073 said:
Thanks motomk,
I had no idea there were products out there for camber adjustment for Holdens. Just when I thought I was happy with my car as it is
I will update this topic later when/ if I can get the near side front camber sorted.
If the rest of your suspension is reasonably new / bushes not worn out etc. and you still have the standard strut setup, you could probably get the camber fairly tidy by eye... I had no idea there were products out there for camber adjustment for Holdens. Just when I thought I was happy with my car as it is
I will update this topic later when/ if I can get the near side front camber sorted.
Basically, because the tyre rubs the strut if you go to more than about -1.5 / -2 degrees, you could just adjust the camber until the tyre is a few mm from the spring seat, then just do the same on the other side.
I did this before going to the coilovers, measured how much the camber bolt stuck out the back, and just re set it back up to the same position. Had an alignment done, and my eyeball guesswork was -2 degrees both sides, -2.06 and -2.08
Bit of camber up front doesn't hurt unless you're really looking to extract the most front tyre life you can out of them...
Thanks Sturdy,
I’ve just got back from the alignment shop.
They adjusted the camber on the front near side strut. The final reading is now -1’06. Somehow this changed the driver side front camber to -1’00.
They didn’t touch the toe settings, but they have changed and now read, F/NS 0’00 F/O/S 0’03 bringing the total toe to 0’03
Anyway everything is in the green but probably not optimal settings.
The car drives much better and the pull to the left now feels like a very slight drift, but I can live with that.
On checking the front near side tyre I found uneven wear to the inner part of the tyre which won’t help, that might also explain the steering wheel shake I get at 60-70 mph.
So new tyres are on the cards as they are very old (10yrs) but I’ll see how the old tyres wear first.
I think I might even invest in a camber gauge and do the job myself in the future.
Thank you for your help it’s been very much appreciated
I’ve just got back from the alignment shop.
They adjusted the camber on the front near side strut. The final reading is now -1’06. Somehow this changed the driver side front camber to -1’00.
They didn’t touch the toe settings, but they have changed and now read, F/NS 0’00 F/O/S 0’03 bringing the total toe to 0’03
Anyway everything is in the green but probably not optimal settings.
The car drives much better and the pull to the left now feels like a very slight drift, but I can live with that.
On checking the front near side tyre I found uneven wear to the inner part of the tyre which won’t help, that might also explain the steering wheel shake I get at 60-70 mph.
So new tyres are on the cards as they are very old (10yrs) but I’ll see how the old tyres wear first.
I think I might even invest in a camber gauge and do the job myself in the future.
Thank you for your help it’s been very much appreciated
Lincsls1 said:
Hi John.
Perfectly possible that you have some flat spotting of the tyres if the car sits around for long periods. This could easily be the cause of the vibration in the steering wheel.
Hl Lincsls1,Perfectly possible that you have some flat spotting of the tyres if the car sits around for long periods. This could easily be the cause of the vibration in the steering wheel.
Yes that’s what I’m hoping for. I will run the car as it is and see how the wear pattern develops. If all goes well then next year I’ll go for some PS4’s on all four corners.
I hope your pride and joy is doing well and you haven’t spent too much this year
mfp4073 said:
Hl Lincsls1,
Yes that’s what I’m hoping for. I will run the car as it is and see how the wear pattern develops. If all goes well then next year I’ll go for some PS4’s on all four corners.
I hope your pride and joy is doing well and you haven’t spent too much this year
Haven't spent a penny on it this year! It only did 400 miles last year Yes that’s what I’m hoping for. I will run the car as it is and see how the wear pattern develops. If all goes well then next year I’ll go for some PS4’s on all four corners.
I hope your pride and joy is doing well and you haven’t spent too much this year
I serviced it myself last year. Replaced the drive belts in October. Sorned over winter as usual and then out in May. Done a couple of Classic Car shows which have been nice, and yes the car is in fine shape. I'll be going to AAS early next year for a full service and professional eye 
Otherwise I keep dreaming of how to spend thousands on it. Supercharger? Head and cam package? LSx 454 swap? Yes please!
Over in the US wheel wobble at 65ish seems to be a recurring theme, it doesn't get mentioned as much over here but suspect it's relatively common.
One potential thing to consider trying is taking the front wheels off, cleaning up the hub mounting face, the inside of the wheel etc, and then refitting the wheel.
When fitting it, tighten it down by hand in a star pattern first in a couple of passes, so a light tighten into position, then some torque, then put it back on the ground and again torque it down in a star pattern.
It may help, I think it can be a bit pot luck sometimes, or seems that way
Agree some flat spotting may contribute too.
If planning on / dreaming of spending thousands, best advice is set a power goal and then work backwards from there, doing it the other way, where you define the goal as 'more' and just keep going is a lot more expensive!
Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
One potential thing to consider trying is taking the front wheels off, cleaning up the hub mounting face, the inside of the wheel etc, and then refitting the wheel.
When fitting it, tighten it down by hand in a star pattern first in a couple of passes, so a light tighten into position, then some torque, then put it back on the ground and again torque it down in a star pattern.
It may help, I think it can be a bit pot luck sometimes, or seems that way
Agree some flat spotting may contribute too.
If planning on / dreaming of spending thousands, best advice is set a power goal and then work backwards from there, doing it the other way, where you define the goal as 'more' and just keep going is a lot more expensive!
Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
Lincsls1 said:
Haven't spent a penny on it this year! It only did 400 miles last year I serviced it myself last year. Replaced the drive belts in October. Sorned over winter as usual and then out in May. Done a couple of Classic Car shows which have been nice, and yes the car is in fine shape. I'll be going to AAS early next year for a full service and professional eye
Otherwise I keep dreaming of how to spend thousands on it. Supercharger? Head and cam package? LSx 454 swap? Yes please!
Well I’ve given up with idea of a cam and head package for various reasons but if I had the opportunity and money a supercharger would be the easiest option for me. I serviced it myself last year. Replaced the drive belts in October. Sorned over winter as usual and then out in May. Done a couple of Classic Car shows which have been nice, and yes the car is in fine shape. I'll be going to AAS early next year for a full service and professional eye Otherwise I keep dreaming of how to spend thousands on it. Supercharger? Head and cam package? LSx 454 swap? Yes please!
I reckon anything around the 550hp and tq would suit how I drive the car.
The very thought of a 454 sounds pretty darn cool though…but no doubt a lot more expensive than a blower.
SturdyHSV said:
Over in the US wheel wobble at 65ish seems to be a recurring theme, it doesn't get mentioned as much over here but suspect it's relatively common.
One potential thing to consider trying is taking the front wheels off, cleaning up the hub mounting face, the inside of the wheel etc, and then refitting the wheel.
When fitting it, tighten it down by hand in a star pattern first in a couple of passes, so a light tighten into position, then some torque, then put it back on the ground and again torque it down in a star pattern.
It may help, I think it can be a bit pot luck sometimes, or seems that way
Agree some flat spotting may contribute too.
If planning on / dreaming of spending thousands, best advice is set a power goal and then work backwards from there, doing it the other way, where you define the goal as 'more' and just keep going is a lot more expensive!
Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
Just dreaming at the moment, quite why I’m not content with a 5.7 is beyond me really!One potential thing to consider trying is taking the front wheels off, cleaning up the hub mounting face, the inside of the wheel etc, and then refitting the wheel.
When fitting it, tighten it down by hand in a star pattern first in a couple of passes, so a light tighten into position, then some torque, then put it back on the ground and again torque it down in a star pattern.
It may help, I think it can be a bit pot luck sometimes, or seems that way
Agree some flat spotting may contribute too.
If planning on / dreaming of spending thousands, best advice is set a power goal and then work backwards from there, doing it the other way, where you define the goal as 'more' and just keep going is a lot more expensive!
Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
I’ll try cleaning the wheel hubs just in case….. you never know.
SturdyHSV said:
If planning on / dreaming of spending thousands, best advice is set a power goal and then work backwards from there, doing it the other way, where you define the goal as 'more' and just keep going is a lot more expensive!
Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
Appreciate that, thank you.Always happy to chat Monaros, shoot me a PM if you want
In fairness though, its pipe dreams.
600/600 would do!
Not sure if this applies to you but after I fitted the pedders super low suspension my car started aggressively following the camber of the road (so pulling left). Thought there was an issue until I found a quiet road and drove down the middle and it didn't pull. Had to make sure I was slap bang on the middle though otherwise it would still pull.
SS55RO said:
Not sure if this applies to you but after I fitted the pedders super low suspension my car started aggressively following the camber of the road (so pulling left). Thought there was an issue until I found a quiet road and drove down the middle and it didn't pull. Had to make sure I was slap bang on the middle though otherwise it would still pull.
The rear suspension is of a design that when lowered gives a bit too much negative camber . Saying that, if you get the ride height nice the negative camber is how you would want it. My commodore has no rear toe arms and I do notice that over 80mph. A lot of people say these cars are sensitive to tyre choice, and I would agree that. Also having non adjustable rear means the rear subframe really needs to be correctly aligned with the jig tool. The car will crab badly if that’s not good.
I align my car with simple tracking gauge and camber gauge and it drives straight on a flat road. It will pull on the road camber as it has caster bushes and max camber at the front. I used to have an evo and that was a bit more involved to get a nice set up
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