Exhaust Iteration No4 ish (Side exit )
Discussion
So in the time I’ve had the car I’ve had a selection of different exhaust systems and styles on the car . First was with cats into a y pipe single to the back, well that wouldn’t do , so some on here may remember I made a full straight through stainless twin 2.5 system with xpipe. It worked but was hideous loud and too raspy for my ears. Added headers which improved the sound and some centre silencers
( magnaflow) which did nothing. It was still to loud for most track days being over 100db
Recently I’ve had a mild steel capa system with double H link pipe.
This sounded awesome but hit the body underneath a lot and has now cracked where it went into the centre silencers .
So. It was always in my head to do a side exit, but couldn’t deal with it stupid loud , as these days you are to limited to which days you can do if your car is over 100db.
I did find a company in the states doing a nice side exit system for 700 dollars and it looks good but shipping was $1700 !! Well that’s just stupid so I ‘took inspiration from it’ It’s a spintech system.
First Job was to add some flexies to my link pipes, not really necessary, but helps stop cracking as this will be a mild steel system,I think mild seems to absorb a lot of tinnyness, and it seems crazy to make it from stainless when the body is normal steel!!
Then join into the HH mid from the capa system .
Now set about silencers, with what I guess/estimate to be enough to quieten it without being restrictive.
The inlet and outlet have a second plate for strength, seems exhausts always snap where pipes join silencers. This should stop that.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/GSuSfMhc[/url]
I’m doing the measuring and offering up at home and the noisy cutting and welding at work, for the sake of my neighbours and I have a wooden garage at home(not ideal for welding! ) ,which makes for slow going, but it’s fitting up nice
Just got the hangers and the oval exits to do now , which will take a good bit of tooing and froing to get the exit just below the sill , like so ..
Opinion’s please as to whether to leave like the above or slash cut in line with the sill ?
Should be ready for a fire up early next week , with DB meter app ready . I’m awaiting a cube shifter as well ,as weirdly the stock one is letting oil out ! so the gearbox crossmember is lowered, making it difficult to move the rear axle stands to make room .
( magnaflow) which did nothing. It was still to loud for most track days being over 100db
Recently I’ve had a mild steel capa system with double H link pipe.
This sounded awesome but hit the body underneath a lot and has now cracked where it went into the centre silencers .
So. It was always in my head to do a side exit, but couldn’t deal with it stupid loud , as these days you are to limited to which days you can do if your car is over 100db.
I did find a company in the states doing a nice side exit system for 700 dollars and it looks good but shipping was $1700 !! Well that’s just stupid so I ‘took inspiration from it’ It’s a spintech system.
First Job was to add some flexies to my link pipes, not really necessary, but helps stop cracking as this will be a mild steel system,I think mild seems to absorb a lot of tinnyness, and it seems crazy to make it from stainless when the body is normal steel!!
Then join into the HH mid from the capa system .
Now set about silencers, with what I guess/estimate to be enough to quieten it without being restrictive.
The inlet and outlet have a second plate for strength, seems exhausts always snap where pipes join silencers. This should stop that.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/GSuSfMhc[/url]I’m doing the measuring and offering up at home and the noisy cutting and welding at work, for the sake of my neighbours and I have a wooden garage at home(not ideal for welding! ) ,which makes for slow going, but it’s fitting up nice
Just got the hangers and the oval exits to do now , which will take a good bit of tooing and froing to get the exit just below the sill , like so ..
Opinion’s please as to whether to leave like the above or slash cut in line with the sill ?
Should be ready for a fire up early next week , with DB meter app ready . I’m awaiting a cube shifter as well ,as weirdly the stock one is letting oil out ! so the gearbox crossmember is lowered, making it difficult to move the rear axle stands to make room .
Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 6th October 21:26
Edited by fred bloggs on Friday 6th October 21:31
stevieturbo said:
The body is steel, galvanised, treated, painted, and not subject to the hot/cold, and nasty exhaust gasses passing through it.
Stainless makes perfect sense for longevity
Of course you're right, but I have seen many a quality OEM MS exhaust last many years (10+) on cars that are daily driven in all weathers.Stainless makes perfect sense for longevity
I think Fred is right in that a MS exhaust does make a difference sound too, probably a preferred one.
Lincsls1 said:
Of course you're right, but I have seen many a quality OEM MS exhaust last many years (10+) on cars that are daily driven in all weathers.
I think Fred is right in that a MS exhaust does make a difference sound too, probably a preferred one.
There are no bare mild steel exhausts on any OEM car.I think Fred is right in that a MS exhaust does make a difference sound too, probably a preferred one.
They are all treated after construction to some degree.
Although the OEM exhaust on my current daily Audi is stainless steel, as I had to cut a rear silencer open to re-weld one of the internal baffle plates that was rattling like mad.
amazingly too, the DPF must work well, as it was genuinely spotless inside.
fred bloggs said:
The boxes themselvs are 2mm thick mild, the in and out pipes are stainless, as are the baffles.
Also stainless loses its 'stainlessness' when subject to heat.
Glowing headers might harm the stainless yes. But not the low heat typically found on the exhaust systemAlso stainless loses its 'stainlessness' when subject to heat.
Also why heat wrap is usually a bad idea, and especially bad for turbo manifolds. Always avoid wrap or coatings unless needed as a last resort, and only use where really necessary.
I didnt want to cut into the sills, its too close to the subframe mounting points and jacking reinforcement. The skirts only sit about 1/2 inch lower than the sills, so nothing to be gained there.
I doubt much of that area is oringinal on the racecars, they have solid rear axle,5 linked, and air jacks, the whole platform of the body is modified.
I doubt much of that area is oringinal on the racecars, they have solid rear axle,5 linked, and air jacks, the whole platform of the body is modified.
fred bloggs said:
It was Right to slash cut 
Should look even better when the wheel is back on the ground. Just need to remove some of the skirt from above it or it’ll melt .
There's a sticky backed, thick aluminium foil product (exhaust repair foil?). Stick to the skirt above the pipe and reflect the heat.Should look even better when the wheel is back on the ground. Just need to remove some of the skirt from above it or it’ll melt .
It's a foil tape that gets stuck over rusty holes in bodywork before bodyfiller.
Edited by bigwheel on Saturday 14th October 22:33
I like. Idle sounds the biz. What's it like on a run? I have a V8 resto-rod project on the go and general advice was to not do side exit as it is too noisy.... in the end we had to exit from the rear as there wasn't enough room to turn out after the X pipe (short vehicle with engine/box a long way back), gutted as I like a bit of noise
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