Help please, Monaro VXR cutting out
Discussion
Looking for help and advice for a problem that has started to occur on my Monaro. This morning I went to the car and after having it running for 20 minutes the engine shut down and wouldn’t restart. After leaving the car for 30 minutes it restarted and ran for 11 minutes and again shutdown. After that the car wouldn’t restart immediately but did after a few seconds, after that it just cut out immediately after each start. When it cuts out it displays no fault codes as verified my a local mechanic and the RAC who have been to the car. Interestingly it does sometimes appear to start if you get out lock the doors and unlock them again but this doesn’t happen every time. I have had this as an ongoing issue for a while now and apart from headless chicken fault finding I am stuffed as to what it is. Anyone had similar or can anyone point me in the direction of an expert in or close to East Yorkshire. Thanks in advance.
A 5.7 or 6 litre one , try your other key is the current one starting to go ? Is the red key lit up on the dash , if it’s a 6 litre , throttle body ? The ls3 one apparently works , fuel pump issue , leads and plugs getting old ? , was it read on a tech 2 as tends to tell you more , old fuel if not driven much , re fill fresh fuel , need a bit more symptom explaining , is it cranking and not firing or just not cranking ?
vxr2010 said:
A 5.7 or 6 litre one , try your other key is the current one starting to go ? Is the red key lit up on the dash , if it’s a 6 litre , throttle body ? The ls3 one apparently works , fuel pump issue , leads and plugs getting old ? , was it read on a tech 2 as tends to tell you more , old fuel if not driven much , re fill fresh fuel , need a bit more symptom explaining , is it cranking and not firing or just not cranking ?
Hi thanks for getting back to me. The car is a 6 litre, new plugs and leads fitted and fresh fuel. Tried using both keys and exactly the same. 2 different code readers were used, don’t know what make though. The car is just not cranking at all, dash lights on but totally dead. Really appreciate your help.vxr2010 said:
A bad earth , i always add an extra earth wire , a bad starter motor , a bad battery as they can be fussy with batteries , what’s the voltage when it is running
Checked earth connections and all look good, take your point on running an extra earth to prove. Recent battery kept fully charged on a battery conditioner so feel unlikely. Why would starter motor cause it to cut out when running? What do you mean by the red key light on the dash, when does that show? What do you know about the key fob batteries, the keys always remotely open the car fine but the batteries are the originals. Read somewhere they recharge but can’t see that. Do they have any influence on the immobiliser once the car is fired up. There is a red key symbol on the dash that goes off when the ecu etc says it’s the correct key , the main alarm system could be playing up , the fob batteries on my 04 both got changed , it’s a solder iron job , does it run rough before it cuts when it’s been running , like running out of fuel or a ht lead or plug issue or just stop suddenly ? Stopping suddenly makes me think it’s an alarm issue , worth changing the alarm fuse if you can find it ? Could be a bad connection , could be the key battery going , start it with both keys in the car near the dash and see if it cuts out
There is a red key symbol on the dash that goes off when the ecu etc says it’s the correct key , the main alarm system could be playing up , the fob batteries on my 04 both got changed , it’s a solder iron job , does it run rough before it cuts when it’s been running , like running out of fuel or a ht lead or plug issue or just stop suddenly ? Stopping suddenly makes me think it’s an alarm issue , worth changing the alarm fuse if you can find it ? Could be a bad connection , could be the key battery going , start it with both keys in the car near the dash and see if it cuts out
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the extent of the security on the car is to stop it starting, without the correct code from the key the BCM (Body Control Module) doesn't allow the 'start cranking' signal to be sent, so no starter action.
I don't think there is anything that would then cut the engine once running, if it's running, it's passed the security check (I think...!) and won't then randomly cut out.
Most code readers don't necessarily give much info, a Tech2 would be ideal, although I borrowed a SnapOn one from a mate and that seemed to recognise quite a bit.
Whereabouts are you based?
Is there no 'Service Vehicle Soon' message either? I find if mine has died in unusual circumstances or cranked a lot and not started, you tend to get a Service Vehicle Soon message?
How does the engine stop, instantly, is there a stutter / stumble first?
I don't think there is anything that would then cut the engine once running, if it's running, it's passed the security check (I think...!) and won't then randomly cut out.
Most code readers don't necessarily give much info, a Tech2 would be ideal, although I borrowed a SnapOn one from a mate and that seemed to recognise quite a bit.
Whereabouts are you based?
Is there no 'Service Vehicle Soon' message either? I find if mine has died in unusual circumstances or cranked a lot and not started, you tend to get a Service Vehicle Soon message?
How does the engine stop, instantly, is there a stutter / stumble first?
vxr2010 said:
A bad earth , i always add an extra earth wire , a bad starter motor , a bad battery as they can be fussy with batteries , what’s the voltage when it is running
Checked earth connections and all look good, take your point on running an extra earth to prove. Recent battery kept fully charged on a battery conditioner so feel unlikely. Why would starter motor cause it to cut out when running? What do you mean by the red key light on the dash, when does that show? What do you know about the key fob batteries, the keys always remotely open the car fine but the batteries are the originals. Read somewhere they recharge but can’t see that. Do they have any influence on the immobiliser once the car is fired up. SturdyHSV said:
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the extent of the security on the car is to stop it starting, without the correct code from the key the BCM (Body Control Module) doesn't allow the 'start cranking' signal to be sent, so no starter action.
I don't think there is anything that would then cut the engine once running, if it's running, it's passed the security check (I think...!) and won't then randomly cut out.
Most code readers don't necessarily give much info, a Tech2 would be ideal, although I borrowed a SnapOn one from a mate and that seemed to recognise quite a bit.
Whereabouts are you based?
Is there no 'Service Vehicle Soon' message either? I find if mine has died in unusual circumstances or cranked a lot and not started, you tend to get a Service Vehicle Soon message?
How does the engine stop, instantly, is there a stutter / stumble first?
Hi, many thanks for your help, I really do appreciate your assistance.I don't think there is anything that would then cut the engine once running, if it's running, it's passed the security check (I think...!) and won't then randomly cut out.
Most code readers don't necessarily give much info, a Tech2 would be ideal, although I borrowed a SnapOn one from a mate and that seemed to recognise quite a bit.
Whereabouts are you based?
Is there no 'Service Vehicle Soon' message either? I find if mine has died in unusual circumstances or cranked a lot and not started, you tend to get a Service Vehicle Soon message?
How does the engine stop, instantly, is there a stutter / stumble first?
3 different code readers haven’t identified a code, one of which was a snap on. I’m based in Hull, East Yorkshire. There is service soon also showing. The engine just stops instantly, the run time seems to shorten to virtually nothing from 20 minutes when cold.
The fact that it cuts out instantly without stuttering etc. suggests some electronics cutting power to the ignition system, fuel injectors etc.. The fact that it then won't even try to crank does point towards the immobiliser module IMO.
If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
Lincsls1 said:
The fact that it cuts out instantly without stuttering etc. suggests some electronics cutting power to the ignition system, fuel injectors etc.. The fact that it then won't even try to crank does point towards the immobiliser module IMO.
If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
Hi, many thanks for your thoughts, the immobiliser does seem to be becoming a prime suspect, along with ECU. Unfortunately or fortunately I cannot get it to the local dealer as I’m not sure I’d want to take it there, in the early days I had to travel to the dealer in Darlington for any work. On a positive note the RAC will transport it to a specialist and unless something daft comes to light it’ll be the way to go. So annoying for a car that has done so few miles and meticulously stored. I think people are right when they say cars are better used.If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
Fair enough.
Must admit, I was thinking the main ECU could be the culprit too.
I found this thread...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Sounds like he (might) have suffered the same problems.
I'd perhaps drop the OP a message, annoyingly, he states the problem was sorted, but didn't reveal the solution.
I'd also bet that this 'Dave' who works at Walkinshaw would remember this car, problem and solution too.
Must admit, I was thinking the main ECU could be the culprit too.
I found this thread...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Sounds like he (might) have suffered the same problems.
I'd perhaps drop the OP a message, annoyingly, he states the problem was sorted, but didn't reveal the solution.
I'd also bet that this 'Dave' who works at Walkinshaw would remember this car, problem and solution too.
Edited by Lincsls1 on Monday 5th June 20:59
BIGVXR said:
3 different code readers haven’t identified a code, one of which was a snap on. I’m based in Hull, East Yorkshire. There is service soon also showing. The engine just stops instantly, the run time seems to shorten to virtually nothing from 20 minutes when cold.
People obsess with codes, when the live data is more importantCan you easily make the car cut out ? Or you have no control at all ?
When it does stop, will it remain non startable again ? A fault that is present, is always far far easier to find than one that is not.
Scope crank and cam, check for rpm on live data. Without these, especially crank signal, it will never run.
When it stops, is there still power to injectors, coils, is the ecu still alive ?
These are all very basic first checks anyone would do.
Just to continue throwing thoughts in, if it runs, at all, I don't think it's immobiliser related.
If it just cleanly cuts out, I think it's an electrical thing.
If it gets worse with temperature, to me that'd point more towards a sensor as opposed to a bad ground or loose connection, but the blindness of the guessing is only increasing as I keep typing...
When it dies, do you hear relays click, does the dash flick / reset itself, or is it literally just running, and then stops dead and dash presumably then moans / chimes at you?
If it just cleanly cuts out, I think it's an electrical thing.
If it gets worse with temperature, to me that'd point more towards a sensor as opposed to a bad ground or loose connection, but the blindness of the guessing is only increasing as I keep typing...
When it dies, do you hear relays click, does the dash flick / reset itself, or is it literally just running, and then stops dead and dash presumably then moans / chimes at you?
Maybe not relevant to the problem in this thread but regarding the ignition key, there is a metal protrusion on the ignition key (next to the blade) that makes touching contact with the metal part of the face of the ignition barrel around the key slot.
Over the years, there have been various theories about the purpose of this function.
Charging the key battery?
A basic security feature to enable completion of the ignition circuit?
Over the years, there have been various theories about the purpose of this function.
Charging the key battery?
A basic security feature to enable completion of the ignition circuit?
Lincsls1 said:
Fair enough.
Must admit, I was thinking the main ECU could be the culprit too.
I found this thread...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Sounds like he (might) have suffered the same problems.
I'd perhaps drop the OP a message, annoyingly, he states the problem was sorted, but didn't reveal the solution.
I'd also bet that this 'Dave' who works at Walkinshaw would remember this car, problem and solution too.
Cheers, it does sound rather similar, shame the end result isn’t out there, I’ll give it a go.
Must admit, I was thinking the main ECU could be the culprit too.
I found this thread...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Sounds like he (might) have suffered the same problems.
I'd perhaps drop the OP a message, annoyingly, he states the problem was sorted, but didn't reveal the solution.
I'd also bet that this 'Dave' who works at Walkinshaw would remember this car, problem and solution too.
Cheers, it does sound rather similar, shame the end result isn’t out there, I’ll give it a go.
Edited by Lincsls1 on Monday 5th June 20:59
bigwheel said:
Maybe not relevant to the problem in this thread but regarding the ignition key, there is a metal protrusion on the ignition key (next to the blade) that makes touching contact with the metal part of the face of the ignition barrel around the key slot.
Over the years, there have been various theories about the purpose of this function.
Charging the key battery?
A basic security feature to enable completion of the ignition circuit?
Cheers. This is an interesting point that there doesn’t seem to be any definitive answer to this. The key batteries are the originals from when the car was new. They open doors and boot and seemingly start the car but for the sake of a couple of quid it’s worth a shot, just having to bugger about with the keyfob to do it. 🤦♂️Over the years, there have been various theories about the purpose of this function.
Charging the key battery?
A basic security feature to enable completion of the ignition circuit?
Lincsls1 said:
The fact that it cuts out instantly without stuttering etc. suggests some electronics cutting power to the ignition system, fuel injectors etc.. The fact that it then won't even try to crank does point towards the immobiliser module IMO.
If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
Hi, many thanks for your thoughts, the immobiliser does seem to be becoming a prime suspect, along with ECU. Unfortunately or fortunately I cannot get it to the local dealer as I’m not sure I’d want to take it there, in the early days I had to travel to the dealer in Darlington for any work. On a positive note the RAC will transport it to a specialist and unless something daft comes to light it’ll be the way to go. So annoying for a car that has done so few miles and meticulously stored. I think people are right when they say cars are better used.If it was a faulty fuel pump or a duff injector etc.. it would stutter to a stop or run badly. A bad starter obviously wouldn't stop the engine running.
Sorry, can't be more help than that.
Might be worth a trip to a local VX dealer to see if their Tech2 highlights anything.
Otherwise long term, sticking the car on a transporter and sending it to Walkinshaws or MWP might be an option.
In fact, why not give them both a call and see if they might be happy to try and point you in the right direction. I'd ring them both.
SturdyHSV said:
Just to continue throwing thoughts in, if it runs, at all, I don't think it's immobiliser related.
If it just cleanly cuts out, I think it's an electrical thing.
If it gets worse with temperature, to me that'd point more towards a sensor as opposed to a bad ground or loose connection, but the blindness of the guessing is only increasing as I keep typing...
When it dies, do you hear relays click, does the dash flick / reset itself, or is it literally just running, and then stops dead and dash presumably then moans / chimes at you?
Cheers. It does run for a while from cold and the subsequently less and less if the car is hot to the point where it will start and die instantly. Can’t say I’ve heard any relays, probably because of the feeling of dejection and anger when it fails😂 It does just stop dead and flash up check engine, service due and safety mode.If it just cleanly cuts out, I think it's an electrical thing.
If it gets worse with temperature, to me that'd point more towards a sensor as opposed to a bad ground or loose connection, but the blindness of the guessing is only increasing as I keep typing...
When it dies, do you hear relays click, does the dash flick / reset itself, or is it literally just running, and then stops dead and dash presumably then moans / chimes at you?
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