P2101 P1516 after new throttle body

P2101 P1516 after new throttle body

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dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Thursday 24th November 2022
quotequote all
Since my car failed to run one day I have brought a new throttle body from USA Ebay . After fitting it and clearing the codes it now starts and drives fine up until coming to a very part throttle position eg junction or off throttle and rolling. .
Engine check will flag up with P2101 but still run ok .
Clear the code then.. on the next drive
P1516 safety mode comes up and the engine will miss , splutter then stall.

Both will be gone with simple turn off and restart.

I changed to decat and mid length headers last year and it was running great for the last 5000 miles or so.


Can anyone give me some suggestions where to start looking to get this running perfectly again???

Monaro VXR LS2

Cheers all

SturdyHSV

10,206 posts

172 months

Thursday 24th November 2022
quotequote all
Is it an OEM throttle body?

The 'silver blade' LS2 ones are basically unobtainable now, but fortunately the LS3 one works absolutely fine, plug and play, no need for a remap, if you do have trouble and end up looking for another new TB.

It'll be some sort of threshold that's being breached for airflow at part throttle I'd assume, you could feasibly have this mapped to be more forgiving before throwing a code perhaps scratchchin

L2VXR

990 posts

218 months

Thursday 24th November 2022
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Do you have a over rad cold air intake with maf?

If so check that the maf isn't to close to the throttle flap when open . When I reassembled mine it was a whisker to close and would throw a code when the flap touched the maf. Moved maf back been fine since

dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Friday 25th November 2022
quotequote all
Cheers guys .

Not got over the rad intake .

Its from the US as AM Autoparts . Sold as direct replacement for our GM part number but probably not OEM has a silver blade and they seem to have sold hundreds of them .
Ultimately I'll be off for a re map one day but not for a while.

We've tried calibrating it with the garages diagnostics but not sure if its actually done anything

Is it a case of finding another one then ?

vxr2010

2,594 posts

164 months

Saturday 26th November 2022
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If it’s that part that’s at fault I would send it back and get the ls3 one if it works with no issues , from what I heard from before a remap on an ls3 is not cheap as by the book you need a licence then the re map , im sure some one on here would know a cheaper way , Rock auto are listing throttle bodies from
80 £ to 200 £ plus tax and shipping and import duties , I’ve assumed you have used them before , go the fed ex route as that’s fully delivered cost , when i order through them I tend to but the original gm part

stevieturbo

17,454 posts

252 months

Saturday 26th November 2022
quotequote all
dan mugglestone said:
Cheers guys .

Not got over the rad intake .

Its from the US as AM Autoparts . Sold as direct replacement for our GM part number but probably not OEM has a silver blade and they seem to have sold hundreds of them .
Ultimately I'll be off for a re map one day but not for a while.

We've tried calibrating it with the garages diagnostics but not sure if its actually done anything

Is it a case of finding another one then ?
So what exactly did you fit ? still haven't answered ?

Some China part ? some re-con silver blade ? gold blade ? OEM GM gold blade ? something completely different ?

And just because somewhere sells hundreds of something, just means they sell hundreds of it. Not that the part has worked for whoever has bought it

dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Sunday 27th November 2022
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
So what exactly did you fit ? still haven't answered ?

Some China part ? some re-con silver blade ? gold blade ? OEM GM gold blade ? something completely different ?

And just because somewhere sells hundreds of something, just means they sell hundreds of it. Not that the part has worked for whoever has bought it
Had a throttle body fault so thought id fit an ebay usa item . It was listed as the same part number for a LS2 engines ie silver blade 90mm like for like

Once fitted we cleared the fault codes , Everything seemed fine for the first 20 miles or so then its like the engine just didnt like what it was reading from this new TB .

IF I need to dig deeper in the pockets then fine but not sure if its perhaps a wire issue ?? ( although hard to diagnose on here ) or can this part need some sort of learning process??

Has anyone here fitted a replacement TB for an LS2 that was just a case of replacing and off you went, If so which one did you buy??

SturdyHSV

10,206 posts

172 months

Monday 28th November 2022
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Wiring I'd be surprised if it's an issue, that'd either work or not work if it was fundamentally wrong, and you're gettng a code relating to airflow so I'd imagine it's part of a self diagnosing process whereby if the MAF / MAP picks up a change in airflow outside of what the OEM computer expects a working throttle body to produce, it'll trip the code.

I sold my old (69,000 mile) LS2 TB to a forum member who would have intermittent throttle body issues on his LS2 VXR, he drove over, we swapped it, he drove off and it's worked fine ever since. No battery messing about, just swapped and done.

I also fitted a new (ported) LS3 throttle body to mine, as well as obviously significantly different engine internals and so on, and haven't had any throttle body codes at all. Mine may be tune related in that instance as I had Luis Sola remotely connected to it for the first fire up and initial tune etc. but we've done very little driveability stuff and it's not thrown any codes at all in 1500 miles.

The legit LS2 throttle bodies are basically unobtainable and have been very hard to get for probably about 5 or more years I think. If you want to get really fancy, I think it's the old V8 Audi RS4 (B7?) that has the same throttle body (they're not a GM manufactured unit) but to be honest you're probably better off getting an LS3 (gold blade) one from a known source. They are plug and play thumbup

I got mine ported from Tony Mamo, a bit more spendy, especially now the exhange rate is a bit crap but it looks like a good piece!

Excuse for a picture. I painted it black, can see the lovely smooth port job hehe



Edited by SturdyHSV on Monday 28th November 10:09

monkfish1

11,610 posts

229 months

Tuesday 29th November 2022
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
So what exactly did you fit ? still haven't answered ?

Some China part ? some re-con silver blade ? gold blade ? OEM GM gold blade ? something completely different ?

And just because somewhere sells hundreds of something, just means they sell hundreds of it. Not that the part has worked for whoever has bought it
Reading between the lines, id say the wrong one. Fit the right one, and im sure it will be fine. Never had success with the brass/gold blade ones.

stevieturbo

17,454 posts

252 months

Tuesday 29th November 2022
quotequote all
Given the silver blades are not available...it does sound like some spurious chinese crap.

Only ever fitted one gold blade to a Monaro, it seemed to work just fine, that must be a couple of years ago now and never heard back. OEM GM gold blade.

dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Tuesday 4th July 2023
quotequote all
Holy thread resurrectionsmash

To recap had the fault codes as above , Fitted cheap TB then fitted genuine TB from Walkinshaw.

Now fitted new ( rock auto throttle pedal ) . checked all earths , has new battery.

mods ( previously fitted before the problem ) K&N air filter , mid length headers, decat pipes otherwise stock LS2 monaro vxr

I still have the problem of it suddenly shutting down usually at low speeds off the throttle at any time either 2 miles or 200 miles . It has however done it once after going over a dip around 40mph in the road and although not bottoming out in did jolt the car . A second time it did it when i put on full lock and lifted the clutch to just pull me into a parking space.

I do also get the codes P0443 evaporative canister purge valve and P1682 Metering oil pump Malfunction.
I can get the car started again by unplugging the TB then clearing the codes then plugging TB back in

Seeing as ive replaced the 2 key parts with new how can i find out if i have a wiring loom or a ECM / ECU fault ???

Thanks





fred bloggs

1,340 posts

205 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
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I preempted all this by sacking off the 23 year old loom in my car and replacing with a haltech ecu and engine loom.

Yes it was money, but second to rust, old wiring is what kills older vehicles. Especially when its heat cycled a million times, and the GM stuff isn't the best to begin with.

Id get somebody with EFI live to data log it ,also start grabbing the wiring and wiggling it ,see if you can manifest the issue.

Edited by fred bloggs on Wednesday 5th July 11:15


Edited by fred bloggs on Wednesday 5th July 11:17

L2VXR

990 posts

218 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
quotequote all
Have you read this thread may give you some more avenues to look at

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

stevieturbo

17,454 posts

252 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
quotequote all
dan mugglestone said:
Holy thread resurrectionsmash

To recap had the fault codes as above , Fitted cheap TB then fitted genuine TB from Walkinshaw.

Now fitted new ( rock auto throttle pedal ) . checked all earths , has new battery.

mods ( previously fitted before the problem ) K&N air filter , mid length headers, decat pipes otherwise stock LS2 monaro vxr

I still have the problem of it suddenly shutting down usually at low speeds off the throttle at any time either 2 miles or 200 miles . It has however done it once after going over a dip around 40mph in the road and although not bottoming out in did jolt the car . A second time it did it when i put on full lock and lifted the clutch to just pull me into a parking space.

I do also get the codes P0443 evaporative canister purge valve and P1682 Metering oil pump Malfunction.
I can get the car started again by unplugging the TB then clearing the codes then plugging TB back in

Seeing as ive replaced the 2 key parts with new how can i find out if i have a wiring loom or a ECM / ECU fault ???

Thanks
So are you saying you fitted a 100% correct like for like TB to the car ? or something different ?

What was on it, and what is on it now ?

And why change the pedal ?

dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
quotequote all
[quote=stevieturbo]

So are you saying you fitted a 100% correct like for like TB to the car ? or something different ?
Yes a 100% correct like for like TB is now fitted as supplied by Walkinshaw

What was on it, and what is on it now ?
When the fault started it had the TB and pedal from factory fitted. Now has like for like TB and new pedal from Rock auto

And why change the pedal ?
Because the Walkinshaw TB had not fixed the fault codes and so figured its the next part in the system controlling the TB./quote]




Admittedly after fitting the new pedal it gave the longest amount of time without throwing the check engine/safety mode (approx300miles. but by this point i had dug around all the looms i could see connected behind the dash perhaps shifting something into a better place??????

dan mugglestone

Original Poster:

75 posts

77 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
quotequote all
L2VXR said:
Have you read this thread may give you some more avenues to look at

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Yeah have read that a few times over the last year , genuine auto electricians down in cornwall that can data log and scope seem to be few and far between but will have another look

stevieturbo

17,454 posts

252 months

Wednesday 5th July 2023
quotequote all
dan mugglestone said:
Yeah have read that a few times over the last year , genuine auto electricians down in cornwall that can data log and scope seem to be few and far between but will have another look
you should be able to log both the pedal and blade tracks with a decent scan tool for any dropouts or issues in that regard. It doesn't need a scope, but obviously a scope will record faster and with more detail.

The fault codes you had, do not relate to or state a pedal problem though ?

And again when you say a genuine TB fitted....exactly what part was on the car, and what was fitted ? Largely as the OE silver blades are unobtanium.
And any so called refurb item of same.....I'd still be dubious about.

Scoping/logging the sensor tracks for both pedal and blade are kind of essential here to see exactly what sort of signals are happening when the fault occurs....if of course you can make it occur when you need it to