AP 362 mm front discs-replacements on the cheap...
Discussion
So after finding out on this forum that range rover 360mm front discs can be used instead of the highly rust/pick up prone AP items i thought i would start with purchase of the discs
pic shows the difference between the two
The range rover discs are noticably heavier-will weigh for exactness
my ap discs will be getting a little skim in any case
i have ordered tubing which will be cut into 10 pieces reducing the wheel stud diameter on the range rover discs-tubing 16mm o/d 2mm wall so 12mm-i hope lol
I measured the centres and found a little bannana skin that the centre bore of the hub increases from under 70mm to 71.5 [this is mentioned on the other thread on here and did baffle me as i just looked at the wheel centre bore differences-not realising about the step up at the face]
will update as i get the bits i need to convert
mintex coated discs were 56 quid to the door posted
pic shows the difference between the two
The range rover discs are noticably heavier-will weigh for exactness
my ap discs will be getting a little skim in any case
i have ordered tubing which will be cut into 10 pieces reducing the wheel stud diameter on the range rover discs-tubing 16mm o/d 2mm wall so 12mm-i hope lol
I measured the centres and found a little bannana skin that the centre bore of the hub increases from under 70mm to 71.5 [this is mentioned on the other thread on here and did baffle me as i just looked at the wheel centre bore differences-not realising about the step up at the face]
will update as i get the bits i need to convert
mintex coated discs were 56 quid to the door posted
Edited by tony1966 on Sunday 23 October 00:17
If you can get the centre bore right, you don’t need to worry about the hole size for the studs. They aren’t a tight fit to the stud threads anyway. The centre hole is what should locate the disc centrally on the hub, not the 5 stud holes.
Which is just as well, as 16mm OD with 2mm wall gives you 12mm ID
Good idea though, be good to see if this works.
Which is just as well, as 16mm OD with 2mm wall gives you 12mm ID
Good idea though, be good to see if this works.
ha ha aye-it is 12mm for the studs-was a typo,well spotted
yes,not strictly necessary but positive centering will help
a nice snug fitting centre spigot should keep the disc nice and central
i dont do any track type stuff with my car-its on standard boat suspension,but for those who do the weight difference would be offputting using the rangie discs-however they can be removed and swapped over in 5 mins so the aps gould be kept for track days etc-for a road car its a no brainer
yes,not strictly necessary but positive centering will help
a nice snug fitting centre spigot should keep the disc nice and central
i dont do any track type stuff with my car-its on standard boat suspension,but for those who do the weight difference would be offputting using the rangie discs-however they can be removed and swapped over in 5 mins so the aps gould be kept for track days etc-for a road car its a no brainer
Davep24 said:
Mines got bmw x5 345mm discs, I am using ctsv Brembo calipers though, to keep the discs in place I used the steel tubing cut into rings method. Not had any vibrations or problems and they have been on for at least 4 years now
yes.tubing is on its way, centre spigot spacers are also ordered but will probs be 14 days or so till i recieve those -these are all simply for hub centering/location-not much point in using the ap discs on the road if the car is going to get wet at all-mine will just be kept and go along with the car when it is soldThe standard brakes are so gash that these cv8 really need an upgrade,certainly on the front,not sure about the rear though,dont think the ap setup is required on the back unless doing track days,ring trips etc-my car stands on its nose ,brakes really well from high speed,no shudder/feedback etc but at slow speeds you get feedback through the wheel
The dba are a better road disc by far,or even a few other options just re-using the ap bells-hadland etc
pricewise i dont think the rangie front disc conversion can be beaten,you can even get grooved etc if you like-you only have to procure the spacers/spigot kit once-i refitted my ap disc that i had removed yesterday while i await the centering spigot-the metal tube arrived yesterday so now to cut that into 10 pieces...
Hopefully that mintex coating will stay on the centre for a good while
pricewise i dont think the rangie front disc conversion can be beaten,you can even get grooved etc if you like-you only have to procure the spacers/spigot kit once-i refitted my ap disc that i had removed yesterday while i await the centering spigot-the metal tube arrived yesterday so now to cut that into 10 pieces...
Hopefully that mintex coating will stay on the centre for a good while
Its not solely about budget or being a tight scots git[i am used to the associated running costs of m cars and rs4 etc] but if you leave the car for any length of time you get feedback off the discs,it all but wears off after a few hard stops given the correct "oppertunity"
If you have the rangie conversion it seems to give the option for both worlds
I havent driven the car yet with rangie discs[still awaiting my machined spigots],but there is a considerable weight difference-probs 5kg a disc,hopefully with it being on the hub so to speak it wont be noticable on a road car-steering and suchlike
If you have the rangie conversion it seems to give the option for both worlds
I havent driven the car yet with rangie discs[still awaiting my machined spigots],but there is a considerable weight difference-probs 5kg a disc,hopefully with it being on the hub so to speak it wont be noticable on a road car-steering and suchlike
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