VT-VZ front subframe bolts

[TerryS]

Guys does anyone know where I can get new front subframe bolts for my suspension overhaul. I have found pretty much everything else but I can't find the 4 subframe bolts except via the states (Wretched) and they are $80 + shipping so that will be the last resort.

[monkfish1]

Whats wrong with the old ones?

I think Walkinshaws keep them.

[SturdyHSV]

monkfish1 said:

Whats wrong with the old ones?

I think Walkinshaws keep them.

Do they tend to come out fairly easily, or are we talking soak in penetrating fluid for a week and perform several prayers to one's deity of choice before even attempting to remove them?

Also, am I correct in thinking the 'shoulder' by the head of the front bolts basically align the subframe?

[TerryS]

monkfish1 said:

Whats wrong with the old ones?

I think Walkinshaws keep them.

Are they not TTY?

Thanks I will give them a try.

[L2VXR]

SturdyHSV said:

Do they tend to come out fairly easily, or are we talking soak in penetrating fluid for a week and perform several prayers to one's deity of choice before even attempting to remove them?

Mine came out relatively easy , if they start to get tight wind them back in and slowly back them out again you can oil the excess thread from inside the engine bay were they stick out through the chassis.
At the other end of the scale allan Kendall 's bolts looked very corroded when they came out

[TerryS]

I am going to bite the bullet and get the Wretched ones as they are Grade 10.9. If anyone else wants some please shout ASAP and I will combined saving on shipping.

[SturdyHSV]

TerryS said:

I am going to bite the bullet and get the Wretched ones as they are Grade 10.9. If anyone else wants some please shout ASAP and I will combined saving on shipping.

It's a shame the thread didn't come up earlier as I picked up some of the Wretched ones about 3 weeks ago

They did arrive though and look to be decent from what one can tell of a bolt visually

L2VXR said:

Mine came out relatively easy , if they start to get tight wind them back in and slowly back them out again you can oil the excess thread from inside the engine bay were they stick out through the chassis.
At the other end of the scale allan Kendall 's bolts looked very corroded when they came out

Cheers, I'll keep that in mind. I won't be reusing the old bolts, was just wary of snapping one off or ruining the actual nuts which would be a heap of pain.

[TerryS]

How much did you pay for shipping out of interest? I have messaged Rob as the shipping costs seem very high.

[monkfish1]

SturdyHSV said:

monkfish1 said:

Whats wrong with the old ones?

I think Walkinshaws keep them.

Do they tend to come out fairly easily, or are we talking soak in penetrating fluid for a week and perform several prayers to one's deity of choice before even attempting to remove them?

Also, am I correct in thinking the 'shoulder' by the head of the front bolts basically align the subframe?

Usually not to bad as the top of the thread is exposed in the engine bayt. Which is warm with lots of airflow. But id always wire brush the exposed thread and soak in oil first. Never failed to get one out. Same cant be said for the rear subframe bolts!

yes, the shoulder aligns the subframe.

[monkfish1]

TerryS said:

monkfish1 said:

Whats wrong with the old ones?

I think Walkinshaws keep them.

Are they not TTY?

Thanks I will give them a try.

From memory, no. The torque value is nowhere near high enough to get close to the yield point.

Apart from head bolts there are no TTY bolts on the car. At least thats what i remember from when i worked it through.

[SturdyHSV]

TerryS said:

How much did you pay for shipping out of interest? I have messaged Rob as the shipping costs seem very high.

I just did it through the website and cried about it to myself, the shipping did include the import charges and the VAT on top of that and on top of shipping, so it is at least a 'to your door' price, which is likely why it seems a lot, you're getting a few % duty added, and then the cost of shipping on top, and then 20% on top of all of that to pay to the government.

monkfish1 said:

Usually not to bad as the top of the thread is exposed in the engine bayt. Which is warm with lots of airflow. But id always wire brush the exposed thread and soak in oil first. Never failed to get one out. Same cant be said for the rear subframe bolts!

yes, the shoulder aligns the subframe.

Good to hear, will do the same.

monkfish1 said:

From memory, no. The torque value is nowhere near high enough to get close to the yield point.

Apart from head bolts there are no TTY bolts on the car. At least thats what i remember from when i worked it through.

The crank damper bolt is meant to be one time use so is feasibly TTY?

Interstingly it's the yanks that seem to think the front subframe bolts are TTY, and they come up with all sorts of stories, although naturally they also reuse them because there are none available other than from Wretched.

[fred bloggs]

I know for sure the rears are TTY . Many years ago when I first got the car I replaced the subframe bushes, and re-used the bolts, well, the subframe slipped, and kept moving.
They are not available new even in Australia. Some Australian breakers are even selling used bolts.

I went with the Wretched bolts in the rear, and would probably do the same in the front.

[TerryS]

Thanks guys, thought as much, I remember the stock brake caliper bolts are TTY as well.

Edited by TerryS on Tuesday 7th June 13:32

[monkfish1]

TerryS said:

Thanks guys, thought as much, I remember the stock brake caliper bolts are TTY as well.

Edited by TerryS on Tuesday 7th June 13:32

Why do you think that?

[TerryS]

monkfish1 said:

Why do you think that?

That's what Holden told me when I replaced mine some 12 years ago. I just replaced with higher grade non TTY bolts.